Mike Humfreville - 11-7-2005 at 01:54 PM
The Gecko Road
The weather is certainly cooling now, in early November. Whale Sharks are here but not in abundance. The whale shark-seeking boats cruise the south
end daily, searching. Searching. The sharks are here but difficult to find this year. I ponder the cause for change. Global warming is always in
my thoughts. It wouldn?t be except that there is such a potential for conflict. The large oil producers and consumers (including us perhaps at the
top of the list) hold it in their personal best monetary interest to sell as many fumes as possible. Do we need all this?
While I?m busy contributing to this problem, I?ve slowed down on retirement. The road south from Bahia de Los Angeles to our home near Camp Gecko I
now drive at 12 MPH rather than 60. It?s much nicer. Going slow I find myself more observant of the environment.
I can forgive myself because in the past we were only here for a few days or weeks and had no time to slow down. We had to make the most of our own
self-imposed limitations. But that has all changed now. There is seldom a need to rush.
The road between the village and our house is pretty rugged from recent rains, and living here it only makes sense to preserve our vehicle by driving
slower. Thus we do. There are many things to see, regardless of the seasons. We often pass the aging yet replenishing band of burros that have
inhabited this region for forever. The older one knows me and will allow me to slowly approach him and pet him while his herd hides behind desert
scrub-brush.
There are free-range cattle that wander wherever. Since their eyes are opposed they see only in two dimensions. I assume they don?t recognize depth:
how distant an object, a car for example, is from them. I always brake for these beasts out of concerns for the both of us animals. They cross the
dirt track hurriedly when they hear my truck and then stop on the sidelines of the road to see what will happen to them next. Our windows are always
down and we pull adjacent to them and offer up our best moo to them. They seldom respond but look at us questioningly.
Today we were coming down the road doing our usual 12 MPH with exceptions, both faster and slower and Mary Ann said she saw something crossing the
road somewhere in front of us. In the distance I thought I saw cattle crossing. I was wrong. It was a small herd of goats.
It was a kilometer or so in front of us and we had reached a smooth spot in the roadbed and I accelerated. We caught up with the goats just as the
last one crossed the road. They were collecting in the shade of a mesquite tree. They all worked together to fit within the patern of shade cast in
the mid-afternoon sun. They all craned their necks to look at us and we issued our goat-like grunts that they paid little attention to. Then a dog
appeared.
He was a Baja dog, a blend of Shepard and Collie maybe, but obviously in charge of the goat heard. He was protecting them from an assumed threat, us.
He stood between us and the tree under which the goats had found shelter from the sun and was not aggressive but very Alpha Male. It was clear to us
that it was his assigned responsibility to herd and protect the goats. How smart some of us animals are.
He did a very good job; he stood, looking at us for a few moments, trying, I would guess, to comprehend our intentions before he returned to the herd,
his foremost assignment. I wondered it he lead them home at night, back to the old Diaz Ranch. Did he fend off Coyotes? In my heart I wanted to
live in his body, actually his mind for a moment to see what I could learn.
All this on a six kilometer stretch of dirt road in Baja California.
Debra - 11-7-2005 at 02:25 PM
So ya old Putz! You finally slowed down enough to really see the flora and fauna.....
Good story, glad you and my sister are enjoying your retirement!
bajajudy - 11-7-2005 at 02:40 PM
Aint life grand when you can slow down and smell the goat doo doo!
I have often been fascinated by these dogs who hang out with the goats. They are called chiveros and they apparently grow up with the goats and
become a member of the herd. This is one regal looking pup we saw on a hike one day. He was in charge, for sure.
vandenberg - 11-7-2005 at 04:21 PM
Mike
You have a way with words. Keep your stories coming. They're delightful.
marv sherrill - 11-7-2005 at 05:03 PM
great insight Mike - glad to see you located in Bahia - we'll be down Thanks giving and Christmas - give me an e-mail at the calendar - Marv
turtleandtoad - 11-7-2005 at 05:11 PM
I can't get the image out of my mind of you moo'ing at a bunch of cattle 
bajajudy - 11-7-2005 at 05:59 PM
TandT
You dont Moooooooooooooo?
marla - 11-7-2005 at 06:04 PM
Gee Mike it's hard to imagine you going 12 mph even on foot.
David K - 11-7-2005 at 06:31 PM
No kidding... sounds like travelpearl can actually pass YOU (for a change)!
PabloS - 11-7-2005 at 07:35 PM
We always moo at the cows and never miss a chance to meow at the cattails. Good story Mike, you are living our dream retirement. 
Santiago - 11-8-2005 at 06:51 AM
MH: Andy and I have been convinced for some time now that there is an inverse, 100% correlation between the age of a gringo and the speed at which
the four miles from town to Gecko is traveled. Every time we go there, we drive it a little slower; being passed by younger guys but always passing
the old farts. Of course, the definition of "younger" and "old" continues to evolve........
Debra - 11-8-2005 at 01:59 PM
Hey Jim, You obviously have never riden with Mike have you?! 
capt. mike - 11-8-2005 at 04:00 PM
i'll be down in feb dropping off a couple from NYC??!! to stay with their friends who winter there, think i'll take the morning and drop by your place
MH and MA to say hello. from DK's pics looks like you have a nice set up there.
Another goat ranch photo
John M - 11-8-2005 at 05:03 PM
A little further south than the road to Gecko, but we like the photo..
San Juan de la Pila, west of Mulege.
[Edited on 11-9-2005 by John M]
And another, same place
John M - 11-8-2005 at 05:07 PM
neat, eh?
[Edited on 11-9-2005 by John M]
[Edited on 11-9-2005 by John M]
Neal Johns - 11-9-2005 at 12:57 AM
Hey, Old Hump,
You used to write so much I gave up saying Good! Good!
Looks like it's time to start again! Good Dog! Great story!
Neal (John M's younger son)
Hey Neil - thanks
John M - 11-9-2005 at 07:32 AM
I appreciate the comments. John