BajaNomad - La Sierra de San Francisco

La Sierra de San Francisco

Paula - 2-9-2007 at 02:29 PM

I've always wanted to follow the road north of San Ignacio on the highway with the big cave painting sign, and I did just that a few weeks ago. Friends and I went on a portion of a longer ride with Trudi Angell of Saddling South. We left Loreto on Sunday afternoon, and drove to San Ignacio where we spent the night at Casa Leree, a charming small hotel. After the required check in at the INAH office, we left for San Francisco, where we met our guide, Ramon Arce, who led us to Rancho Guadalupe, where the mules and burros were ready for the trip. (Trudi had set all of this up beforehand.) At about 2pm we started on the trail down into Santa Teresa canyon,

and after a steep 2 hour ride, arrived at Huerta Santa Teresa, where we camped the first night.

The afternoon light in the canyon was dramatic, and the views were beautiful in every direction. After a wet fall and winter, the mountains are so green, and the flowers are wonderful! It was pretty chilly, but the campfire and a good dinner kept us all comfortable. Sleeping out under the stars was just fine for me.

After breakfast and a morning fire, we hiked along by flowing water and sculpted pools

then up the canyon wall to our first cave

and back down to cross the arroyo and climb the other side to the well known cueva la pintada. Many of the caves now have protective walkways.

After lunch back at camp, we rode to meet the rest of the group, who had gone into canyon San Gregorio a few days before, and were on their way out through through Santa Teresa. We spent one night with them at Cacarrizo, and hiked to several more amzing rock art sites, through more breath-taking landscape. That night we had a great dinner of chicken mole burritos and salad, and music around the fire by our very talented guides.

The whole group went back to the first campfor one more night of good food, guitars, singing and dancing around the fire. If it was cold, we didn't notice. We all rode back to Guadalupe the next morning, though I think most of us would have preferred to ride on and on and on....
And here is Ramon, inviting us all to come back soon, which I sure hope to do!

Great little "photo" trip------

Barry A. - 2-9-2007 at 02:36 PM

Thank you very much for sharing this, Paula. Neat stuff. I did not realize that the "walk ways" had been developed at these sites. Glad to see the efforts to preserve these truly unique sites.

Barry

tripledigitken - 2-9-2007 at 02:56 PM

Paula,

Been waiting for your report since you mentioned awhile back you were going.

We have that high on our todo list. Last year it was the whales for us.

Thanks for posting the pictures. We have wanted to go since we acquired Crosby's book on the subject.

[Edited on 2-9-2007 by tripledigitken]

cavepainting.jpg - 12kB

Capt. George - 2-9-2007 at 03:05 PM

thanks Paula, haven't been there in a couple years!

ever been to Santa Marta just south of San Ignacio? Also a great place with paintings...I think we went with one of the "Arce" clan...

Sweet people!!! george

bajaandy - 2-9-2007 at 03:15 PM

Great photo essay and trip report! What a great way to visit the canyon.... on horseback with guides. Nothing beats camping out under the stars, especially in Baja, where the stars look so bright. Thanks for sharing!

Mexitron - 2-9-2007 at 04:13 PM

Nice photos! What beautiful country up there...

David K - 2-9-2007 at 05:02 PM

Thank you Paula... If you have time to share more photos, we would appreciate it... This is the soul of Baja!

The movie 'Bajo California: The Limit of Time' is an awesome film that tells us about the Arce's and shows us the magic of the paintings near San Francisco de la Sierra!

bajajudy - 2-9-2007 at 05:03 PM

Hey Hey Paula
Sorry I couldnt resist!
Thanks for sharing. Looks like you had a wonderful trip. It sounded like you had a pretty good group to travel with.
(We were in Loreto having dinner and there was a group of people, who had obviously just done some sort of trip together, sitting at a long table next to us. They were having a marvelous time recalling incidents on the trip. My husband and I commented on this fact. Now I knew that Paula and Don were going on a trip but didnt know what they looked like so had no idea that this was their trip. As their dinner was winding down, I heard someone say something about Paula....my ears perked up and I looked across the table and there was this big smile...she knew who I was from the pic on our website. Nice to meet you, Paula. Will wait to meet Don next weekend!)
And so glad that you had such a great trip.

rts551 - 2-9-2007 at 05:08 PM

We go up there every year. Last summer they were really having water problems. Morning and evening they would pack the mules for a trip down the canyon for water. Each mule carried 15 gallons. 6 mile round trip to the water... hard life. One evening, a rancher said he had to leave... 4 hours by mule to his ranch... but he left some grapefruit so must be a nice farm.

Breath taking views from the road up. Thanks for sharing your trip, Paula

David K - 2-9-2007 at 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by rts551
We go up there every year. Last summer they were really having water problems. Morning and evening they would pack the mules for a trip down the canyon for water. Each mule carried 15 gallons. 6 mile round trip to the water... hard life. One evening, a rancher said he had to leave... 4 hours by mule to his ranch... but he left some grapefruit so must be a nice farm.

Breath taking views from the road up. Thanks for sharing your trip, Paula

Interesting! In the past water came from tinajas as the settlement is on a mesa and not in a canyon with water... This kept a limit on the population that could live there... 'extra' Arces (and Villavicencio's) moved on to other parts of Baja to live...

When Choral Pepper, Erle Stanley Gardner and others arrived by helicopter in the early 1960's (the first outsiders to ever see San Francisco de la Sierra) they were told that the people of San Francisco were descendants of soldiers stationed there to gaurd the mission of Dolores... The extensive rock walls were all that remained of that 'lost mission'...

Research by Dr. Jackson (academicanachist on Nomad) would discover that the mission of Dolores del Norte was an early name for the next mission north of San Ignacio, and that name only existed on paper... the new mission's name would change to Santa Gertrudis when the funding finally arrived to build it.

However, the people of San Francisco had been told that their village was the location of Dolores... So, perhaps it was an early site until the lack of water forced a move to a better location and those that remained never learned of the name change?

There is an adobe visita ruin (that resembles Mision Santa Maria) in San Pablo Canyon, downstream from San Francisco that has often been mislabled as Dolores del Norte on maps and even in INAH literature... However it was a visita of Santa Gertrudis called San Pablo.

See early photos of San Francisco de la Sierra at http://ChoralPepper.com

rts551 - 2-9-2007 at 06:46 PM

In my discussions with the residents they said that in wet years they have water close by. In fact there is a 12 volt (and solar panel) pump that feeds the complex set up for visitors. But they said that these small springs will dry up in dry years and they must go down to the canyon springs for their water. One fellow was building a large "pila" to try and hold rain water...Can't imagine that would last long. My guess is that there is probably 20-30 people living there now. The children that don't want to work the goats (hundreds of them) usually move to the San Ignacio or Vizcaino area

Natalie Ann - 2-9-2007 at 06:53 PM

Thank you, Paula, for the good story and the excellent photos. I envy you that trip... not sure I'm ready to ride a mule that far, but I'm glad you did.

Von - 2-9-2007 at 08:56 PM

AWesome storys! I love to here everyones input.. Pictures are awesome too thanks for sharing, I hope one day I have an oppurtunity to check it out........

Paula - 2-9-2007 at 09:50 PM

Thank you all for commenting on my story and pictures. It was something of a life-changing experience for me. I love to be in the mountains, and have hiked a lot in Montana. I'm not much of a rider or a camper, but from now forward I would like to do more of both. The trails of Baja are amazing-- secretive, mysterious and so rugged and beautiful. And the people who live in those mountains are so kind, so warm, so open and so wise. And the art-- how did those ancient beings accomplish what they did, and what moved them to do it? How did they come to be in those hard to reach places, and how has time changed the geography since the art was made?

Ken, I'm sorry to have kept you waiting. I'm not much of a writer, and more than two sentences in one day are very consuming for me. It took a nudge via u2u from another nomad to get me moving.

I've never been to Santa Marta, George, but do hope to go there some day.

rte 551, Ramon told me thatabout 25 people live at Guadalupe, and maybe 35 in San Francisco.

David K, I will try to post a few more tomorrow. I hope to ride into San Gregorio in the spring, where we'll visit some ranches that are way off the beaten path, and with luck will return with the pictures you want to see. I've looked at your choral Pepper link before, and it has new meaning to me now. To have been among the first to visit those distant places years back would have been unspeakably wonderful!!!

Nena, I wasn't sure either. You might surprise yourself if you try it. A mule is much more comfortable than a horse.

Hey back at you Judy, I'm so looking forward to seeing you on the 18th!

Neal Johns - 2-9-2007 at 09:53 PM

Thanks Paula,
It's a great trip we have done twice. It is a must for all Nomads - and if you make your own arrangements through the INAH office and the guides assigned, rather than a commercial tour, the cost is very, very, low!

Paula - 2-9-2007 at 10:06 PM

Neal, Trudi is my nieghbor, and while she has done tours for a long time, you couldn't really call her commercial :tumble:

Booking your own tour through the INAH office does save some money, and is a good way to go also.

Sharksbaja - 2-9-2007 at 10:58 PM

i hate you(smack)

[Edited on 2-10-2007 by Sharksbaja]

Cypress - 2-10-2007 at 06:52 AM

Thanks Paula :bounce:

rts551 - 2-10-2007 at 07:13 AM

Paula

Every year (October I believe) there is a fiesta in San Francisco. I was told that approx 2-300 people attend. Would be a great time. I haven't gone because I can't bring myself to drive that road with all the other cars on it - especially on the way back after a night of partying.

Ralph

ursidae69 - 2-10-2007 at 11:07 AM

I had to log in an reply to commend you, this is a great thread!! Thanks for sharing. :cool:

Ken Bondy - 2-10-2007 at 11:15 AM

Fantastic Paula!! Wonderful report and outstanding photos from a magical part of Baja!!

Paula - 2-11-2007 at 07:28 PM

Just a few more pictures for you:

Ramon set up a tap to dink or fill bottles from a clean spring coming out of the rocks.

Most of the paintings are in caves high on the canyon walls. Some are done on ceilings or overhangs.

Here is Carlos, relaxing after loading the burros and before hitting the trail.

And here is a trivia question. Who knows what is inside of this little building at Santa Teresa?

just amazing

BAJACAT - 2-11-2007 at 08:32 PM

Paula thanks for the great report,just like some of the fellow nomads this trip is on my list next to whale watching at San Ignacio, thanks for the great report and pictures..

Iflyfish - 2-11-2007 at 10:01 PM

Wonderful travel log and great pics. Thanks.

Iflyfish

elgatoloco - 2-11-2007 at 10:56 PM

Thanks for the report.

Hope to get up there some day soon.

Paula - 2-13-2007 at 11:54 AM

Last chance onthe trivia question!!....

I'm posting the answer this evening...

Bajalover - 2-13-2007 at 01:57 PM

Outstanding photos and after viewing the paintings at San Borja and Montevideo, would very much like to visit this sight.
Does it take more than 1 day to get to the cave paintings. Can you only do it on horse back or walk. Lastly - if you don't mind, do you have to make reservations and what's the cost. Currently in BoLA and want to drive over there to sight see.
Many tks :spingrin:

Capturing history

Sharksbaja - 2-13-2007 at 02:14 PM

That's what you did. Truly representative. I can image it gave you insight to the past present and future.
You are fortunate indeed! Spectacular images, thanx.

Paula - 2-13-2007 at 02:43 PM

Bajalover,
You can look at Trudi Angell's website, tourbaja.com for information on her tours, or you can book your own guide by going through the INAH office in La Paz or San Ignacio. The Moon Guide to Baja has information on this way. Trudi's tours are wonderful-- meals, ambiance, good travel companions. You will save a little money going through INAH directly.
Law requires that all visitors to any cave art have a local guide. I think that if you go to San Ignacio early in the morning, you can arrange a guide, meet him in San Francisco, and go to the Cueva de Raton in a day. It is a short walk from the road. Better to plan 2 or more nights in the back country, the longer you stay, the more you see. If you aren't comfortable riding, you can hike. We met one couple (the only other people we saw in our 4 days out) who were hiking with a guide.

I hope you get over there, you'll enjoy it for sure!

Paula - 2-13-2007 at 07:36 PM

...And now the answer you've all been waiting for....

if you look just above the fence, there is a wooden sign. The sign says:

coca cola.....................8p
agua purificada............8p
galletas.......................5p
sabritos.......................5p
tecate..........................11p

This mini-super has the best tecate in all of Baja!!!!!

Neal Johns - 2-14-2007 at 12:07 AM

Bajalover, you can easily hike down, but you better be in shape to hike back up.

Paula is right on about staying down more than a day or two. There are lots of caves with rock art for day hikes and extra days do not jack the cost up too much. Do it!

wilderone - 2-14-2007 at 12:55 PM

"... not sure I'm ready to ride a mule that far, ..."
You can hike with just a day pack - no need to ride a mule.

Hook - 2-14-2007 at 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Don Jorge
Thanks for the trip report and photos. A very, very nice place to visit and sounds like you ha a blast!

As mentioned you can book the trips yourself at the INAH office in San Ignacio next door to the mission.
Current charges as of January 2007: Guides are 170 pesos a day with mule. Charge to visitors is 140 pesos a day with a mule.

ARE YOU KIDDING ME WITH THOSE PRICES, JORGE???? That's unbelieveably reasonable.

On a multi-day trip, are you expected to take care of the guides meals, similar to packing trips in the Sierra Nevadas?

Paula - 2-14-2007 at 05:41 PM

Prices

We paid 180p for the guide, and 140p for each animal on the trip-- meaning the guide's mule, 3 mules for the three of us to ride, and 3 pack burros, 7 animals total, per day. Three people would normally use 1 or 2 pack animals. You do provide meals for yourself and your guide. there is a 30p charge per traveller at the INAH office for a permit, and if you take pictures you pay a small fee (20p?) per day for using your camera. Tipping the guide is customary, and we happily tipped generously because the guide really works hard, and never stops smiling.

Still a really reasonable price for the trip, MUCH less than 6-8 hours out fishing with a guide.

jeans - 2-14-2007 at 08:01 PM

Well...this has taken me back...I had to dig out and re-read my own trip report after I could not find it here...I thought I had posted it a few years back when we migrated to this board. I went in November of 2000.

Did Carlos still have his Seattle Mariners jacket? I, too could not believe the low fees. I think, with tips it was about $150 each. For three nights in the canyons.

Our guys, L to R were Ramon, Boney, Carlos & Oscar.

[Edited on 2-15-2007 by jeans]

vaqueros2 (Small).jpg - 43kB

Paula - 2-14-2007 at 11:02 PM

Wow, Jeans, that is our Ramon and our Carlos! I didn't see a Mariners jacket-- is Carlos a fan?

I wonder how many guides there are, as Ramon keeps turning up in other trips I hear about.

jeans - 2-14-2007 at 11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Paula
Wow, Jeans, that is our Ramon and our Carlos! I didn't see a Mariners jacket-- is Carlos a fan?

I wonder how many guides there are, as Ramon keeps turning up in other trips I hear about.

I do not know how many there are but they are assigned on rotation..to make it fair. That came up when someone in my group asked if they could request them if they were to come back. Many families supplied the 20+ animals we needed as there were ten of us.

The jacket was a gift from a customer...he really liked it.

There was one man in the group who was scared $#!tless almost to the point paralyzation at the steep trails after his saddle shifted.

It was a wonderful trip...but I'd go into training before I'd do it again. :lol:

jeans - 2-14-2007 at 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Bajalover
Can you only do it on horse back or walk.

One of the guys in our group wanted to hike...he didn't want to ride. They had no problem with him hiking, but they insisted on bringing a mule for him, just in case. It was a good call...he broke his ankle. (They use mules, not horses. Horses would not survive that terrain)

[Edited on 2-15-2007 by jeans]

tripledigitken - 2-15-2007 at 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jeans

Quote:

Jeans,

Please share with us your training schedule. After our mule trip into the Grand Canyon my only complaint was saddle sores. :rolleyes:

[Edited on 2-15-2007 by tripledigitken]

Neal Johns - 2-15-2007 at 04:01 PM

With hindsight (pun), I will share my mule riding experience:
Take a pillow/pad to put between El Diablo and your rump.
jeans doesn't need one because.......Ji ji ji ji, I'm dead.

Osprey - 2-15-2007 at 04:02 PM

Paula, like you I would be in awe and wonder if I got the chance to see what you did. I did a lot of research on the paintings and as for your question "what was the geography like when they were painted?" the glyphs tell the scientists that the rainfall was probably about what it is today -- the desert varnish bacteria cannot compete with lichen so where it is found (these would be about 7,500 years old) it's either/or and the glyphs are there for us to see. It takes about 10,000 years to make the dark covering of the rocks and I think science is beginning to use that date to age date glyphs that are fading (taking back the space that was scratched off).

Neal Johns - 2-15-2007 at 04:06 PM

I note that everyone is happy with the guides.
Me too!
Most of them speak little English, but never fail to take really good care of you. Great people. No surprise there, we have found all the backcountry people like that.

A good read if you can find it, is Harry Crosby's Last of the Californios.

wilderone - 2-15-2007 at 04:28 PM

"On a multi-day trip, are you expected to take care of the guides meals...?"
You can negotiate it any way you want. If you can contribute part of their meals, the price comes down a bit. If you hike, payment for an extra mule is still required for evacuation purposes. If you keep your gear down, you don't need as many mules to carry it. On our trip, we had hiked ahead of the mules to our last night's destination while the guides loaded up the animals. They were very late getting in. It was after dark, and we made a fire and waited and wondered - they had our dinners! Finally, they arrived. What happened was that one of the mules slipped and fell over a steep cliff. They had to rescue him. One of our guides told us that they have to keep night watch for moutain lions, because they'll attack the mules which are tied up. Our organizer explained to us before we left, that we could leave anything that we didn't want to bring back home for the guides' families. We made a big pile: I ditched my boots, a tarp, some cookies, toothpaste, etc. I'd do it again fer shur.

Neal Johns - 2-15-2007 at 04:43 PM

Good on you, wilderone!
Look around, they are sure not getting rich with the cheap prices they get. Marian gave one of her hearing aids to one of our guides.

jeans - 2-16-2007 at 02:10 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by tripledigitken
Jeans,

Please share with us your training schedule. After our mule trip into the Grand Canyon my only complaint was saddle sores. :rolleyes:

The training I referred to was for the hiking involved, not the riding. All of the caves are half way up the canyon walls. You can't ride right up to them. Also, there are parts of the trail where you have to dismount and lead the mule...uphill. You want to be able to move faster than the mule.

I had no problem with saddle sores, but not for the reason alluded to by a certain boney-a***d aridologist. (meant in a most loving way, of course...missed you last weekend, Neal).

The saddle happened to fit me. If the seat is too wide, it is very uncomfortable on the ischiums (the bottom of your pelvis). Inexperienced riders sit heavy in the saddle, with all of their weight on those bones. Experienced riders carry their weight on the balls of their feet, taking pressure off the ischiums. (I owned horses for 18 years)

So, it was the hiking that got me...I even passed on climbing up to the last cave the morning we came back because my legs were losing strength.... that's when accidents happen.

I think 6 months regular duty on a stairmaster prior to the next trip would make it much more enjoyable...and probably lighten the mule's load, too! :yes:

We also donated a lot of excess equipment and food to the guides.

Paula - 2-16-2007 at 10:24 PM

A trainig schedule!!!

What a good idea! I'm already doing some excercise every morning just in case I get to go on the trail again soon. Calesthenics for the muscles, especially the quads. A little yoga for balance on those edgy trails up the canyon walls to the caves. And a bit of meditation, repeating my new mantra "just trust your mule" over and over all day long. For lack of a stairmaster, I should just go to Tabor, south of Loreto, and climb the boulders 3 times a week! Jeans, you are right-- preparation would make the trip even better!

Paula

BAJACAT - 2-19-2007 at 09:03 AM

How many day or nights your group expend in the sierra and how many paintings sites did you guys goy to see in those days for example in a weekend how many sites can somebody see. :?:

Ps.Paula can you throw afew cave names that you visit it.thanks

jeans - 2-19-2007 at 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by BAJACAT
How many day or nights your group expend in the sierra and how many paintings sites did you guys goy to see in those days for example in a weekend how many sites can somebody see. :?:

Ps.Paula can you throw afew cave names that you visit it.thanks

I believe that Paula & I covered the same ground. We also camped at Rancho Teresa the first night...the other two nights we stayed in the same location further down.

Her first cave picture was from Cueva las Flechas...(arrows) notice the black lines...they are arrows. That cave is across the canyon from the large Cueva Pintada.

Cueva Musica had a large, elaborately carved rock. I do not recall the other two cave names...one I did not hike to on the last day. Three nights in the canyons, 5 caves.

We had only planned on two nights but we were "up-sold" after we left the rancho. On the edge of the canyon, there is a sign with a map of the canyons & caves. They showed us how many caves we could see in two days...but if you want to stay an extra day........

......very clever!

Thanks Mindy

BAJACAT - 2-20-2007 at 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jeans

Quote:

Ps.Paula can you throw afew cave names that you visit it.thanks

just wondering what I can see in a weekend

Paula - 2-22-2007 at 08:54 AM

Bajacat, I'm sorry not to have answered your question sooner, we were out of town for a few days.

You could probably see several caves in a weekend. Three nights out would be better. Some of the best art is back in at Cacariso, which is about a four hour ride. From there you can hike to Las Flechas and Pintada, which we did. They are spectacular. You could hike on to La Soledad, but we didn't. It would have been a hard climb further. In the other direction from the campground you can go up Boca San Julio which is a beautiful hike. There is a petroglyph (carved rock) there that is wonderful to see, and then you go on to cueva San Julio. If I remember correctly, la musica is near Santa Teresa camp, which is half way in from San Francisco. There is another cave directly high above Santa Teresa that part of our group rode up to. So it would depend on your stamina and your guide's willingness to do all of that in a weekend. I think you could get good advice on an itinerary by talking with the office of INAH in San Ignacio at the museum by the mission.

I hope you get to do the trip, and let us know how it was-- I'm sure you'll enjoy the trip!

David K - 2-22-2007 at 10:05 AM

Some early photos of the caves plus the first map drawn of the locations (The government changed many of the names even though it was drawn by their archeologist, Dr. Margain) can be seen at http://ChoralPepper.com Included is the cave discoverd by Choral... Pepper Cave, that could only be seen from helicopter.

[Edited on 2-22-2007 by David K]

No worries Paula

BAJACAT - 2-23-2007 at 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Paula
Bajacat, I'm sorry not to have answered your question sooner, we were out of town for a few days.

You could probably see several caves in a weekend. Three nights out would be better. Some of the best art is back in at Cacariso, which is about a four hour ride. From there you can hike to Las Flechas and Pintada, which we did. They are spectacular. You could hike on to La Soledad, but we didn't. It would have been a hard climb further. In the other direction from the campground you can go up Boca San Julio which is a beautiful hike. There is a petroglyph (carved rock) there that is wonderful to see, and then you go on to cueva San Julio. If I remember correctly, la musica is near Santa Teresa camp, which is half way in from San Francisco. There is another cave directly high above Santa Teresa that part of our group rode up to. So it would depend on your stamina and your guide's willingness to do all of that in a weekend. I think you could get good advice on an itinerary by talking with the office of INAH in San Ignacio at the museum by the mission.

I hope you get to do the trip, and let us know how it was-- I'm sure you'll enjoy the trip!

Mindy told me what to expect, in that amount of time. People new, like me to this (Bajalife) think that it required's a lot of time to go and explore,but people like you David K and some others clearly shows that with little time but with a lot of Baja fever anything is possible thaks all you guys that share your trips with the rest off us. Gracias Baja Amiga.

Paula - 2-23-2007 at 07:16 PM

Bajacat, If I remember correctly it was your report on San Borja that motivated us to go there. Turnabout's fair play! :spingrin:

Sweeeeeeeeeeeet

BAJACAT - 2-24-2007 at 08:13 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Paula
Bajacat, If I remember correctly it was your report on San Borja that motivated us to go there. Turnabout's fair play! :spingrin:

Thats what this forum is all about, sharing trips and getting people to see a little bit of what you have experince. now you are motivating me to do this trip... :tumble:

Halboo - 2-27-2007 at 11:46 AM

Very cool trip! Thanks for sharing.
So many wonders in Baja :wow:

David K - 2-27-2007 at 06:35 PM

Photos are great! Carlos resembles a Villavicencio (tall)... The Arce's and Villavicencio's are the backbone of the Baja mountain clans!

BAJACAT - 11-9-2008 at 04:28 PM

I BUMP, HAVE YOU BUMP LATELY???

Don Alley - 11-9-2008 at 05:52 PM

This is Paula, not Don

[BAJACAT[/B], It is amazing that you bumped this up today, as I just got back to Loreto yesterday from bumping along on the back of a mule in the sierra! Do you have psychic powers?? I was down in the canyon for a full week, and didn't even know who our next president would be until the 7th!!! It was a great trip-- we went to rancho San Gregorio, 5 hours by mule from any road.

I haven't been able to log on for weeks now, and not having much to say I haven't taken the time to fix the problem, but in the next few days I'll get it done and maybe put up a trip report.

shari - 11-9-2008 at 06:20 PM

Thanks for all your info everyone about this magical place....we are planning a trip this fall and I have a question...how cold will it be there in say mid december??? muy frio??? We cant wait!

Don Alley - 11-9-2008 at 06:38 PM

Shari, it gets good and cold there by December and I think it sometimes gets down to the 30's F. at night, depending on where you are. Take lots of layers, raingear, gloves, warm cap as well as a riding hat for the sun. I've slept out-- no tent-- on some cold nights and you'll need a ground cover and something to keep your bag dry as the dew can be heavy.

Are you setting up your own trip through the INAH office in San Ignacio? If so you get the guides by rotation unless you make a specific request, which they will honor if the guide you ask for is available. I have names of some really great people if you haven't already booked the trip...

BAJACAT - 11-10-2008 at 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Don Alley
This is Paula, not Don

[BAJACAT[/B], It is amazing that you bumped this up today, as I just got back to Loreto yesterday from bumping along on the back of a mule in the sierra! Do you have psychic powers?? I was down in the canyon for a full week, and didn't even know who our next president would be until the 7th!!! It was a great trip-- we went to rancho San Gregorio, 5 hours by mule from any road.

I haven't been able to log on for weeks now, and not having much to say I haven't taken the time to fix the problem, but in the next few days I'll get it done and maybe put up a trip report.

Wow that is real strange, I just thought about it , I enjoy so much your trip report back then that I wanted to bring it back so new nomads can see it too. I will be waiting for your new trip report.. :bounce:

shari - 11-11-2008 at 10:54 AM

oh my...brrrrrr...maybe we'll wait till the spring then. Seeing as Juan is an Arce...we have family who guide and will hope to go with one of them. I'm glad they honour personal requests..thanks for the info.

Paula - 11-11-2008 at 11:46 AM

Shari, the cold temps are after sundown, the days are pleasant and the weather is generally good for hiking to the caves. All the layers and hats and gloves are just for evening, it's not as bad as I made it sound. I don't think it ever gets as cold as Brittish Columbia :lol: