Wow, it has been more than two weeks since I returned to the PNW chill, and I still fell warmth and happiness when I think of my trip to Loreto in
Feb/Mar. What Nomads said in response to my queries of a few weeks ago is true, you might never want to return home...
I had a tiny window of opportunity to book a whale watch, and somehow was lucky enough to stumble on Arturo's Sport Fishing Fleet and Sonia, who set
me up with a ride, a meal, and a lasting smile (as well as the opportunity to see the whales in San Ignacio) from this experience. Sonia was our
"guide" but had never been to see the whales before, so it was a special treat to hear her exclaim as the magic unfolded directly beside our panga.
Our captain was respectful of the whales and their babies, but still managed to get us close enough for some awesome photos and a chance or two to
touch the marvelous creatures. I do wish I had the chance to take a longer, more educational trip during my visit, but I figured it was buena suerte
that I found anything!
I was also lucky enough to sample a fish taco at McLulu's, who was close to closing, but was happy to keep her stand open for a few minutes while I
scarfed down a delicious snack or two! I still don't know why I insisted on trying tacos de carne at both McLulu's and El Rey, the fish ones were
heavenly! I'm just glad that when I went to El Rey I remembered my high school spanish and did not request one of cabeza! I mean, to each their own,
but I figure eating a meat taco off of a grill that was used to cook cabeza is daring enough for me! El Rey was a trip! The cook and his beautiful
assistant took their time serving me, but it was OK, I understand they might like to feed their local friends before slowing down to administer to
this gringa! I still enjoyed the meal immensely, and even made it back to check out of my hotel with a minute to spare- though I asked for 10 minutes
mas por favor!
The following day I met up with Santiago, who is employed by Trudi Angel as a guide on her combo trips, though in fact this was Santiago's virginal
solo trip for Trudi! There was no need to worry though, he and the cab driver Antonio got us safely to Ensenada Blanca where we set up camp and set
out on the kayaks for our initiation to Baja salt water! We paddled out to one of the closer islands, enjoyed an hour or so of snorkeling, and then
enjoyed Santiago's first meal for us...I think it was bologna and cheese sandwiches with onions and tomatoes...and though I didn't understand the
onions at first, I soon decided they are a necessary addition to a ham or bologna sandwich!
We went on a walk from the beach, a bit of a cattle drive really, but it led to a beautiful vista and allowed us to get an idea of just what the
islands in the park consist of...volcanic rock, unforgiving sunshine, cacti of many sorts and dust. It was beautiful though, and a welcome respite to
being folded up in a kayak!
We paddled back to our beach, carried the boats out of the high tide zone and relaxed in the sunshine or explored to our hearts content! Santiago
again prepared our evening meal, and we drank warm cervezas and laughed until 9pm or so...I think Santiago referred to 9 as being midnight Baja time,
we were active enough that it felt like midnight, so the sleeping bag was a welcome change!
The next morning we went out for a sunrise paddle-I found it hard to sleep through sunrise on Baja, it was just too beautiful to let it slip away! The
water was like glass, and the hour or so we spent out there was magical! We returned to our base, had a hearty breakfast of eggs and tortillas and
then packed up and paddled to Puertocitas for the day, Santiago's favorite for snorkelling on this trip. It was beautiful, and the rock beach reminded
me of Washington, plus about 25 degrees Fahrenheit! We snorkeled among the rocks seeing many fish, from beautiful to dull, from inquisitive to
downright agressive! and enjoyed every minute of it! We also walked through the arroyo here, and marvelled that the land is staked out for sale to
anyone with an eye for paradise minus fresh water and electricity (so far)!
The last day we paddled to see a bird nesting island, and watched the cormorants and Blue Footed Boobies of Kurt Vonnegut Jr fame sticking to the
rocks. The Boobies were way cool, a dream I didn't think I would realize in this lifetime, and though I got no pictures of them, I will remember the
visit with a smile for eternity. We circumnavigated an island on foot, marvelling at the sea c-ckroaches, crabs and rock formations at low tide. As
we paddled back to our beach, the wind picked up...perfect timing, as we were bound for the mountains in the morning and the biking part of our trip!
The wind tried to dismantle my tent, but failed and I slept like a baby in a gale force storm! Taking the tent down was a challenge, but one that I
enjoyed especially with the continued good luck of the weather change just as we were packing up to leave the beach!
We met up with Antonio again, and drove towards San Javier Mission, though we left the taxi and hiked up the river through the oases to a ranch that
was on the way to Las Parras. We stopped to admire swimming holes and waterfalls along the way to a ranch owned by Bulle and Angelita who prepared
lunch for us. It was true that Santiago paid them for their trouble, but it was still fun to sit in their home and enjoy the hospitality. I had the
most delicious broccoli that Bulle and his wife grew, and that he snipped off while I waited blissfully for beans, tortillas and broccoli. It was
impressive noting how happy the ranchers were, having so little in comparison to us gringos, yet seeming to be very happy with what they do have... a
lesson I hoped to learn and utilize back at my home.
We got on the mountain bikes and pedaled to San Javier, the road was dusty, washboardy, uhhh distinctly Baja I guess, but we all stayed on the bikes
even through the many water crossings!
I loved San Javier, the people, the peace, the mission, the cold beer at the one retaurant La Palapa...The experience was beautiful, quiet and
included showers (!) a welcome change from the camping portion of our trip. We stayed at Casa De Ana for a few days, and then headed back to Loreto.
The last part of the trip was a downhill race on mountainbikes to the cave paintings. Wooo, what a rush and we were treated to another bowl of
guacamole in the sunshine...The perfect ending to a great trip.
I'd do it again, Baja was wonderful...I never felt unsafe, even walking the streets of Loreto at 10 pm solo. I failed to find the c-ckfights, but the
local baseball game was a pleasant diversion and the 10 peso Tecate Light was priceless in the stands. Thank you all for sharing your stories,
favorite eateries, and calming my concerns prior to making this trip. It was a trip of a lifetime, and I just may have to do it again!DianaT - 3-17-2007 at 10:46 AM
Quote:
It was a trip of a lifetime, and I just may have to do it again!
Sounds like a great time---enjoyed your report a lot.
Can't imagine that you won't do it again, and again having reading how much you loved it.
Thanks
DianeBob H - 3-17-2007 at 10:53 AM
Quote:
Originally posted by Litza
It was a trip of a lifetime, and I just may have to do it again!
Great trip report! You now have Baja fever! Enjoy planning your next exploration of Baja.
Bob Hbajabeachbabe - 3-17-2007 at 11:03 AM
Ahhh! Another Pacific Northwesterner is bitten by the baja bug!
Welcome to the Club! The only way to overcome this bug is to visit often!!Iflyfish - 3-17-2007 at 02:33 PM
Good one! You really got into Baja in a wonderful way.
I enjoyed the report.
IflyfishLitza - 3-17-2007 at 03:49 PM
I'm honored that Nomads with many/not so many posts enjoyed reading my trip report! I figured it was the least I could do after gleaning so much
information from this site. I have also laughed outloud at some of the posts and been taken to quiet thoughtful places at the passing of beloved
friends of/from the board though I don't even know them. It is nice to think of the world as a peaceful, safe place...Baja showed me that it can be,
and I hope to carry and share that feeling for as long as I can, or until I can travel that way again. Thank you all!
One of my best discoveries upon returning home to the Federal way area is that I can partake of some pretty yummy fish tacos on Pac Hiway! The view
isn't as nice, but the food is lip smacking good. Try out Senor Taco near 331st and Pac Hiway...and no, I'm not getting paid for this advert!Iflyfish - 3-17-2007 at 08:12 PM
PNW has great sea food! The best fish taco I had in Mexico was made with Ling Cod and that is what the best fish and chips are made with in the PNW.
Ivar's uses it sometimes and it is delicious.
Iflyfish
These are the good old days.AmoPescar - 3-17-2007 at 11:44 PM
GREAT TRIP REPORT LITZA!!!
And YES, it does seem that you've Baja Fever! To cure it, rush down to that taco stand and have a couple of fish tacos and roll a really cold mexican
beer across your forehead a couple of times and then take a BIG swallow of it and go aaaaaaaahhhhhhh!!!
I'll have to give Senor Taco a try the next time I'm on the way to Redmond.
Miguelamo tripledigitken - 3-18-2007 at 05:27 AM
Litza,
I miss the PNW from our 3 year stint up there. Oyster Po Boys washed down with a RedHook ESB, could subsitute for a torta and Pacifico, until you get
back down to Baja.
[Edited on 3-20-2007 by tripledigitken]Cypress - 3-18-2007 at 05:40 AM
Thanks for the report Litza.Neal Johns - 3-18-2007 at 09:25 AM
Litza, you are hooked!
Some people hook fish, Baja hooks people!Bajagypsy - 3-18-2007 at 09:26 AM
Sounds like you had a wonderful trip.fishbuck - 3-18-2007 at 11:46 PM
What a nice report. I love Loreto.
Your story brings back memories of my 1st trip which was the best ever, except for the 2nd trip which was the best ever, except for my 3rd trip which
was...David K - 3-19-2007 at 05:00 PM
All trip reports are good and appreciated! Thank you!!!BirdDog - 3-19-2007 at 07:36 PM
Yes you definitly have Baja fever. My wife I know exactly where that comes from. We made our first trip down in Feb and fell in love with the place.
We liked it so much we are in the process of buying a place there and retiring in a few years to live there. Great report.
