Gypsy Jan - 2-16-2004 at 11:42 PM
Thanks to Bajalera's encouragement, here is another chapter in my own very personal observations about eating in Baja.
Just off the farthest north exit from the free road and pay road exit into Rosarito, next to the Palenque is La Cachanilla Nueva. This is a
restaurant that is committed to quality and consistency. The original Cachanilla is about two miles north on the free road (on the north side), a
basic truck stop caf?, with a roadside counter and stools, where you will see semi-trucks and cop cars parked outside at all hours of the day.
The focus is carnitas with the traditional accompaniments, beans, chopped onions, cilantro and guacamole with tortillas. You can order your carnitas
any way you want, maciza, surtido, carne de costillas, etc. There is also carne asada, chicken brochette, fish filets and molcajete, a kind of hot
pot?meat, vegetables and firm cheese served in a savory broth in a large granite, three-legged bowl. The sizzling presentation alone is outstanding,
then, when you realize how heavy the granite bowl is, you wonder how that small, skinny waiter brought it to your table.
Los Pelicanos is a beautiful beachfront restaurant/motel in mid-town Rosarito, where you turn off the main road to get to and it is the only one on
the beach other than the big hotels . The same family that operates the El Nido chain of restaurants owns it. I love going there for the view of the
beach, but, the food is indifferent and you will pay five dollars for a watered-down margarita or four dollars for a small, vinegary glass of wine.
Glorious view? overpriced, not good food and drinks.
Chipotles is located mid-town on the ocean side near Tersa (the Michelin tire store). They serve tri-color chips and three kinds of salsa just for
beginning, and specialize regional Mexican cuisines (cohinita pibil for example). I haven?t eaten there for a while, but everything I tried was
great.
Right next door, sharing the same wall on the north is a Japanese restaurant I love. I can?t remember the name of it, I am sorry to say. The
proprietress is a Korean who married a Japanese bus driver (Ask her about her names, she has three, Korean, Japanese and Mexican). The interior of
the restaurant is spare and beautiful. High ceilings with open spaces, paper lanterns and flowers on the tables. She buys her seafood from the
commercial fish markets in San Diego. The menu is not fancy or far reaching, but it is a fascinating mix of oriental offerings and entrees tailored
to local sensibilities.
Farther south on the inland side is Le Costeau, next to the obnoxious bar Safari. The chef-owner produces wonderful, consistent Mediterranean
inspired cuisine in a beautiful intimate environment using the best fresh ingredients available from local (US and Baja) suppliers. To the best of my
knowledge, his customers come from the local metro area (Tijuana/Rosarito), which means he is fairly priced and does his thing on his own terms.
If you are interested in the Rosarito Beach hotel, all I can tell you is that I went to a ?gourmet? dinner there this last holiday season at Chaberts.
I was served a salad of baby spinach greens. The greens were impeccably fresh, but unfortunately they were covered with viscous layer of pancake
syrup. My main course was pork loin with prunes. The meat was dry and the sauce without flavor. Don?t ask me about the dessert.
Las Mananitas
The Gull - 2-17-2004 at 07:30 AM
Going south of town on the newly expanded free road about two miles from the AMPM gas station, Las Mananitas is at the stop sign where a road from the
hillside meets the road along the coast.
Area known as La Barca for a bar that burned down 10 years ago. Very nice chow. Interior of Mexico food, not baja chow.
Fairly accurate report.
jrbaja - 2-17-2004 at 08:35 AM
The La Barca bar didn't burn down but is now called Bada Bing and it is a dance and strip club with some very pretty girls.
The Tequila Safari restaurant that was referred to as obnoxious is actually a very good place to eat. Nancy and Sebastion, the owners are wonderful
folks who go out of their way to insure your dining pleasure.
They have on the other hand, focused on a younger clientele on the weekends so we only go during the week.
Las Mananitas is generally good but not always. If anyone is interested in more restaurants of quality in Rosarito, I wrote a guidebook and am
willing to share any of the information. There are many great places to eat in and around the Rosarito area.
bajalera - 2-17-2004 at 09:55 PM
Thanks, Gypsy! You really have a nice writing style, and I look forward to seeing more of it in future posts.
bajalera
La Barca
The Gull - 2-17-2004 at 10:40 PM
JR
I am talking 10 years or more ago La Barca most certainly burned down. Yes, it has been rebuilt on the same location as Bada Bing.