"THE ROAD TO BAJA"

I am driving an empty pickup w/canopy from San Diego - Tecate - Mulege on May 14th -15th. Have room for a rider or two and/or some cargo.

Riders: You must have proper ids, shoes, recent shower, and be a non-smoker. If you are a drug-user, I get all the rewards from the federales for turning your sorry burro in. You are allowed a beer or two...BUT..you forfeit your ration and will be ejected if you mention politics or religion.

I'm one of those old-timer Baja-road vets and rarely crash anymore if you keep me awake. It's 645 miles to my door. My best time over the last 37 years is 9 hours...but that was on a Ninja crotchrocket and there were no topos yet. This pickup is MUCH less windy...plus you can sightsee when not helping me watch for cattle and my lost cooler. Photo ops are constant.

Will overnight and have dinner at one of many nice places along the way....no Mama's, though, can't take that old Mayo anymore. Carmelita knows me well, though. Motel will likely be at G.Negro and say Hi to the Nomad at the desk again.

So....Anyone with a 'special need' in Mulege?...or along the way? I stop for Pacificos.

A clue to riding with me.....Life is way too serious to be taken seriously. Pompano.

p.s. HAPPY MOTHER'S DAY



[Edited on 2-10-2013 by Pompano]

i could use something...
i'll pay a case of beer when you arrive...

check u2u for details

Roger,
I'm "almost" considering taking the bus north so I could ride back with you.

Hey Rogelio,

Unfortunately for me (and you), I cannot ride with you on this trip. It would certainly be fun. The only question a potential rider should ask is: Can you guarantee that, even though you have showered, have you gotten all the years of fish out of your clothes and hair? If not, you would have to stop for fishing along the way and allow the passenger to catch up. He/she may have some catching up to do in pounding Pacificos too. However, I am certain that that would not be possible.

Vie bien, Amigo!

(Regarding the photo: I am certainly glad you are showing THAT woman taking a back seat to THAT man because THAT man will be driving the USA for the next eight years.)

I hope that who ever the lucky passenger is, they will do a trip report! No doubt there will be some good stories to tell

Roger please

If none of you realize it---Life is GOOD

Quote:

Originally posted by Paula I hope that who ever the lucky passenger is, they will do a trip report! No doubt there will be some good stories to tell

Quote:

Originally posted by toneart Hey Rogelio, (Regarding the photo: I am certainly glad you are showing THAT woman taking a back seat to THAT man because THAT man will be driving the USA for the next eight years.)

Tony, I promised you this.

here is a photo of a person you and I could have a ball discussing while popping a few caps on the Baja Road..(..in bistros of course.) He is, I believe, one of your favorite radio personalities...'Big Eddy'..

Eddy is an avid fisherman and hunter who moved Up North many years ago. It's a small town environment and I first met Eddy in the 80's. Got his start announcing ND college sports and then local talk radio...and then...ugh...politics on 'Air America.'.. and lately caught him on Larry King a couple nights ago. I deplore political rants of any party, but he's a good sportsman, and we've had some good snow hunts together. Anecdote: He once nicked my motorhome with the tip of his Cessna wing when taxiing into my yard. Just busted a small running light on both rigs. I think it spilled his koolaid, too.

Anyhoo...thought that would interest you in these trying times for us non-political types.


[Edited on 5-13-2008 by Pompano]

Leaving on 13th...

Sorry to miss the convoy..

We are headed down Tuesday am for Loreto..

Maybe Next Time

I already feel that I have passed up a great opportunity. Thank you for the offer.

-Deb

Roger - I gotta wear shoes???!!!

Nena

Thanks for the Big Ed photos, Roger. Why was he taxiing into your yard? Must be a big yard. Anyway, being in the sun and atmosphere of Mulege and SOC sure beats any political rant. And getting there can be lots of fun.

I just arrived in my Norcal home this week. Sorting out neglected duties, obligations, etc. It may take awhile.

Hope you get the ideal passenger(s). Looks like your back seat is filling up with females. Give Natalie Ann a break and make an exception to the shoe rule. Also, the others pale in comparison to DebinDesert. There's still room in the back seat for you. Snuzzle in!

Good times to you at your northern home, Tony. We will hold the fort in Mulege until you return. Eddy landed on the country road blacktop like all small plane pilots do up here, then taxied onto the lane coming into the yard and had that little accident..and yes, the yard is big. At mowing time, I let a few of the neighbor's sheep graze it. Mostly because goats tend to rip up the roots, plus they climb all over your truck.

Nena...I will make an exception for you..you don't HAVE to come with shoes on. I have some of these in the console that will fit you to a T if your feet get cold on the Pacific side. See the photo...

Debindesert...you are welcome anytime..as are those good-looking Pacificos. Muchas gracias, senorita. Mi cervesa fria preferida...my favorite cold beer for the Baja Road. Yes, Bernie...life IS good.

Thanks, Roger.... and those are very nice sock-shoes.
They'll be perfect for those places with signs - No shirt, no shoes, no service - although my sense is that Carmelita would not mind.

Nena

Quote:

Originally posted by Don Jorge Which way are you going through Guerro Negro?

Wish I could join you

You leave yet???

DRIVING MISS BILLARY, BARACK-O,THE VET and others..

Well, heck, goob20202, sorry we missed you. Old Vet John M. and I are rather large and taking up the front seats, but I could have squeezed you in the back between Hilary and Barack-O. Those two have been getting rather nasty and need to be separated, as it looks like they never will become a pair.

After some last minute Nomad cargo shopping, we left Shelter Island, San Diego at false dawn of the 14th. (You know what ‘false’ dawn is, don’t you? .. Means we got up too early...)

NOTE: This Baja road trip from San Diego - Mulege, Conception Bay was crime-free...as were the 200 previous trips. 50-some round trips from Montana/North Dakota - San Diego were also crime-free.

San Diego - Tecate driving distance and time:

For those interested in such things.....the driving distance/time from where I-5 and I-8 intersect in San Diego to Tecate is: 47 miles and 1 hour. This was during low-to-normal traffic times.. Rush hours would add a lifetime to your driving time..and severe Baja withdrawal.

Once out of the city madhouse and onto CampoRd/Ca-94, Spring Valley...you begin to relax and enjoy some country scenery.

On this particular occasion it was a beautiful spring morning. The landscape: Rolling hills with boulders...punctuated with boulders and rolling hills.. A good day for a road trip and enjoying Mother Nature. It reminds us of a Norman Rockwell painting depicting a peaceful America.

Here and there.. in the rolling hills... we see large groups of hikers coming from the south. A day for some exercise, it seems.

John M. grins and signals...some groups swerve towards us and but quickly hike on by. Billary reminds them to visit a voting booth. Barack-O yells he has always loved burritos, no matter what old crazy reverend has said about them.

.

[Edited on 5-19-2008 by Pompano]

The country crossings...

About halfway to Tecate, dodging a stream of over-dressed joggers, we cruise past the 200 or so parked Border Patrol vans, Land Roves, and Jeeps at an immigration checkpoint on the highway and we all wave at the friendly faces.

We make a few stops for waving joggers and have to tell them we’re headed to Baja, not north.

Continuing on the shaded road, it leads us towards a familiar stop just down the road a bit......

it takes a village...

Dulzura Stop...

Okay, not quite to Baja yet...but we are trying. Having missed breakfast, brunch, and a snack we pull up to the semi-famous Dulzura Café. It sits next to the Post Office and small park with lots of village children. ‘Interesting place’, Hilary says, and writes something in her notebook.

"The Road to Dulzura"

...brought to you by your choice of candidates...

The Cafe

Renowned for it’s collection of kitchen hand-mixers, lanterns, deer heads, discarded hiking gear, concertina and razor-wire samples, anti-venom kits, and rattlesnake skins..the Dulzura café always has a couple of friendly patrons and staff who are eager to chew the fat with you. ”Where are you from? Where are you going? Can I go with you?”

I have been eating at this Dogpatch-like place for 30-some years, but luckily they fail to recognize me and we are offered choice stools at the counter. I recognize the nicked tabasco bottle from my second trip.

Now if you want the biggest, juiciest cheeseburger of your life...at around 7000 calories with the french fries to go with it...THIS IS THE PLACE. As I gazed at this masterpiece of cholesterol headed for my heart, my mouth watered, my lips trembled, and my hands shook ...the folks nearby moved slowly away..... and I lost track of the next few minutes.

Tecate turnoff

Winding roads...and then Turnoff to Tecate from Hwy 94. Be careful on this route...With all the sharp turns and pedestrian crossings, you must use extreme caution.

The Border

Anything to declare, folks? No Hilary, you’re okay, ...it has nothing to do with election contributions.

There are no officials in sight on the Mexican side....eerily quiet.....We see the green light..’Pase’....and drive on into Tecate unheralded by anyone...except for some more hikers coming at us.

Going through Tecate...

INFO: Tourist visas (FMT) and bank fee if needed, plus Tecate street directions to Ensendada from the border....

For those needing tourists visas, you can park in a USA lot, walk across first and procure all at the marked places in the photo. Easy and quick during business hours. FM-1, 2 or 3 holders just drive on through unless you need/want a stamp. The border crossing itself is open from 5 a.m. until 11 p.m.

To get to Ensenada the quickest way is simple...from the Mexico entry crossing drive straight ahead to first intersection, then left to next, then right...and you are good to go. Keep going straight ahead, past city park, traffic lights, roundabout, up the hill around some curves, etc...yup, stay on that same heading. Traffic becomes very chaotic again, so drive defensively.

Check ice in cooler. Did you remember to pack the cold chicken/cole slaw lunches?..or have you gone Baja-native already?

The Laja and Mustafa’s are coming up.

The Wine Route...Rute de Vino

Now begins a delightful, leisurely drive to Ensenada through ‘The Wine Route’ of the Guadalupe Valley. Who doesn’t want to take some wine tours? I always find a favorite red.. Plus buy some primo olive oil and tequilas. Then there are the gastronomical delights to be had at places like the Laja and Mustafa’s... ummmm ..(and oof-da, even)...that lamb! LET’S FACE IT, you will not be able to enjoy all this area has to offer on one trip, so don’t try. Savor the moment you choose. Take it nice and slowwww.....

..reward..

...and if you should chance across a ivory-handled corkscrew left on a covered-well, please drop it off in Coyote Bay for a reward of delicious red.

Pompano, Thanks for the report and the pictures.

San Diego - Mulege Trip report Part 2

Now you arrive at the main Highway #1 just south of Ensenada...and back into the chaos. Grin and bear it.

As we drive through the outskirts, I recognize a lstore where we used to buy lots of rum ...Ron Palmas rot-your-mind rum. We shopped there for..oh, I dunno....maybe 15 years?...20?..probably more.

(A certain Nomad compadre of mine in Seattle will recognize this photo...although this store has changed it’s name a few times since the early 70's. Hey..Are you reading this, aquaholic?)

At this point, we ‘elected’ a designated driver. Hilary you say? Well..okay, but not all of us are agreed.
.

Ensenada scene

We cannot find the ‘shortcut’ route from Ensenada to San Quintin for at least the 8th year in a row and so follow our past trail along the malecon, turning left at the Pemex/car wash, and then right at the old Gigante plaza...now Soriana’s.

Which way?

We were looking for more exact directions to Sharkey's. This sign does not help us...so we continue on our same path.

[Edited on 5-19-2008 by Pompano]

We came upon this confused situation....it was a real circus of events....and the efforts of the military to clear up the mess. Pretty dangerous..and I was wishing at this point that I was still driving

what the ...?

About 35 turns and 2 hours later we come in sight of .....

Ah, jeez....with Hilary at the wheel, we are right back where we were.

..that sucking sound...

One cannot help but notice a lot of assembly plants in these northern Mexican towns. Reminded my passengers about a fellow a few years ago who ran for US president. A ‘kook’ by the name of Ross P-something or other. He was always talking about loss of jobs and some sucking sounds coming from the border....

...and then we came across this sight..

coco-stop

We escape that laboring whirlpool and spot what turns out to be a coconut stand. A nice break for some fresh fruit. Nothing quite like a fresh-husked coconut, right? Lop the top off, stick a straw in, and suck. Life is good.

The whole family turns out to pitch in...even the little tykes. John M. Remarks this is labor intensive and smacks of socialistic behavior...sigh.

I love fresh coconut...

Pacific coast campsite detour

We made a little detour of a few miles over to the Pacific coast to visit an old favorite campsite. It's a good break from the Baja Road..and we always find it uncrowded. Here is our group on a camping trip a few years ago.
.



Some fellow fishermen are broke down on this narrow stretch. They had flaggers out front and rear, thank God, and we were in no danger from traffic...so we briefly stopped to see if we could help. They said no thanks, they were okay... just needed to see the welder ..a soldador..in a nearby town . The ball hitch sleeve was the problem. I had an extra receiver only ..so we said buena suerte and drove on.

[Edited on 5-25-2008 by Pompano]

Health care ....

We hustled now to make up some lost time and the kilometers went by quickly all the way thru Camalu and the many ejidos north of San Quintin. We all donated quite a bit to the Red Cross people in Camalu. Hilary and Barack-O each gave a couple pesos and then a long speech, John M. offered to give blood if they needed it. I made change and came out pretty good.

A doctor makes a car-visit and offers some advice for campaign fatigue.....

El Rosario

Went through the Army checkpoint at the top of the grade and put the pedal to the metal.


Now we come to El Rosario...and Nomad Baja Cactus Pemex and motel. We have stayed there many times in the past and always topped off the tanks. Antonio’s hospitality is known by all Nomads and more. This time, unfortunately, was not the time to stay overnight, as we were on a mission to reach points further south before nightfall. Banditos, vampiros, chupacapras, you know..the usual Baja Road hazards.

We pull in to say hola and snap some photos.

The friendly office staff at Baja Cactus.

The rooms and parking are okay..except if I have my boat trailer along. The rates are still the same, and I was told I could get online either in the lobby...or in a room with a cable hookup to my laptop.

But we must press on....miles to go before we sleep.

We roared off onto the Baja Road again.

A short time later we came upon another well-known stop on the trail.

Mama Espinoza’s.

p.s. edit: I thought I would make this photo black and white to give Mama's an old-time look.



[Edited on 5-19-2008 by Pompano]

ANIMAL RESCUE AT EL ROSARIO

Then we pulled into a most interesting place in El Rosario...one that I shall visit more often, now that I know more about it. It’s a business alongside the highway about 1 block south of km marker #60 in El Rosario. Make the left turn at the corner past Mama’s and head south..you will see the sign..FOSSILS. I think everyone would enjoy stopping here. Full of great Baja things..fossils, maps, curios, collectibles, etc. A must see.

But the best thing is, the owner also operates a DOG/CAT RESCUE service there in El Rosario. The owner, Kim, is devoting a huge amount of time and effort into helping the unwanted animals of this area..and can use whatever support you can give. I know that her service to the neglected dogs and cats requires a lot of dedicated effort and she needs some business to support her animal mission...Nomads to the rescue!

Good heart

Sleeping Beauty.

I came upon this figure snoring away while standing perfectly upright in her backyard/kennel area

Poor girl must be so pooped from taking care of her dog and cat charges, that she probably just dozes off at any given chance...catching 40 winks ... and getting back to work.


I’M JUST KIDDING, KIM!!
This was a poor photo op by yours truly...got her with her eyes closed. Sorry, Kim. As we get to know each other, you will understand.....trust me.

Desert(fire)Storm

On the road again, we have left El Rosario behind us and have driven many miles south when we come upon this wildfire way out in the desert. It looks like it could have started from the roadside..a ‘probable cause’ might be a carelessly tossed cigarette, but like political points of view, one never knows. This creates a heated discussion about health care costs,. smoking bans, etc. I hope nobody spots my old Zig Zags and that tin of Copenhagen in the glove box. Ah...leftovers from my urban-cowboying days.

“ Hotter’n a snake’s azz in a wagon rut.”.. who?..quiz quote.

Exploding Quail and Virgin

We hammer down again on the Baja Trail. Past the familiar old Hermanos ranch and cantina still standing after all these years. Each time as I pass by this old landmark, I recall with fond memory myt first serving of machaca.. ‘back in 71'.. like oldtimers say... when the road was more of a ‘trail.’.. That machaca was made from venado..deer/venison...simple and delicious.

Now comes the little dry stream bed just before Catavina...sometimes not so dry.
.


.
Now we are winding our way through boulders, barrel cactus, and boonjums..which are actually rare upside-down carrots..only growing in that special place. We take lots of time to look at the old Virgin of the Rocks shrine which was painted by a Tijuana artist a year after our first pavement trip..
Here's a photo from 1974 of the Virgin of the Rocks. Today it is cemented within an enclosure. Not nearly the same, but perhaps necessary with all the graffiti in the area.
.

.
then follow a couple of trails to old campsites we have used for so many years. Confirm my last chalk rock-painting has washed away and suddenly explode a covey of desert quail, remembering how good they taste over a campfire. We’ve had some great comradery with other Baja travelers who camped with us in those boulder fields. So many good memories..and promises of more to come.

Like you, to me this is still a land of enchantment.

One of our camps in this area from 1994.


.
On a separate trip we hauled our 28' cargo trailer and camped in the boulder field.
.


[Edited on 5-26-2008 by Pompano]

3 for the Road!

The Baja Road calls us south past old familiar places like Top of the World & Methusalah, Lake Chapala, Punta Prieta, turn-off to Bahia de Los Angeles, Laguna Manuela, and Jesus Marie to name but a few.

Always a must, we drop anchor at Carmelita’s tacos, burritos, and gutbomb shack next to the gas station in Jesus Marie.

“Tres burritos!”

.. is my only order there ever since she started out in her van under the trees nearer the station. My God, how can those burritos taste so good? I could eat a couple right now. Muy sabrosa, amiga!

Here’s Carmelita in her old location a few years back...

and here is Carmelita’s today...

..no wind..comfy seating.

LAGUNA MANUELA

We take the sideroad to Laguna Manuela to revisit another great campsite. This is a great area for beachcombers, as the ocean currents continuously deposit great finds...treasures!...on the beaches here. Long Beach ..Playa Largo..is renowned for white sea bass..surf fishing is the order of the day.

There is also a fishing co-op with many pangas in the bay and nearby seas. Lots of shark, rays, and fish are brought in daily. We also bought some nice lobster from these pangueros.

In this photo they are cleaning shark.
.


SPEED KILLS! Does anyone remember those huge billboards with the rabbit on a stretcher? With the tortoise carrying him?

After a light lunch of burritos and a cold one, we get back on the highway and immediately hit that damn huge speed-bump (tope) AGAIN....grrr..... This makes the umpteenth time now when going through Jesus Marie. I swear I will carry a pickaxe with me on future trips! By Pegasus, if man was not meant to speed, we wouldn’t have speedometers that go to 220kph!

The road is laser-straight here for many miles and you can really open up....unless you pay attention to the ridiculous posted speed limit of 80kph...50mph. Sheesh...like, Sure.. we are all going to inch along on these wide-open straightaways. You bet. Hmm....was that a radar cop we almost hit?

.

Now John M. comments that I am ‘going too fast to see the dangers ahead’, which is immediately copy-catted by the backseat drivers, Billary and Barack-O.

Turns out they are right.

FOG AHEAD.

We have all, as a little nation of Baja-travelers, now entered... ‘a zone of unclear destination and intent in a foreign land’...a real vision-impairing place that fogs our progress and creates a lack of resolve.

John M. laments that we...’might be here for a hundred, maybe a thousand ..years.’

Hilary says, Heck, No, John...I will have the last of us out of here by 2010 latest, gauranteed.

Barack-O states that, ‘ I never voted to come this route.’...and... ‘please do not talk about my wife’...whatever that meant? I suspect he may have squirreled away some of that ‘stuff’ he tried when a young man.

.


[Edited on 5-25-2008 by Pompano]

Our foriegn involvement worsens....

As the discussion continues from back seat to front...it heats up and soon the three are loudly interrupting each other. I tried to make the comment that there is no such thing as conversation anymore, just intersecting monologues...but was drowned out by the filabustering..sigh..

And so....with all three yahoos trying to command the dialogue, it just gets foggier and foggier and foggier out there.

[Edited on 5-19-2008 by Pompano]

INTERMISSION

Roger. You really nailed our present human condition here!
What a great road log! I am happy to be brought along for the ride. Thank You!

Mi 'escopeta de caballo.....??'

Mike....here she is...AND...she has her own shotgun. A trifle sleepy at times, though.

Quote:

Originally posted by toneart Quote: Originally posted by Pompano there is no such thing as conversation anymore, just intersecting monologues... Roger. You really nailed our present human condition here! What a great road log! I am happy to be brought along for the ride. Thank You!

The Road Trip...continues...

It is a mere 25 miles or so from Carmelita’s to the state line of Baja California Norte and Baja California Sur.

Here we see the Pemex station (they do have diesel) just north of the Mexican Army Base, plus one of the old original Presidente Hotels (now known as La Pintas), and of course the very noticeable tall metal eagle sculpture that dominates the landscape for miles in every direction.

(I seem to have missed the ‘short-cut’ around the checkpoint again...darn.)

I have not stayed in a Presidente-La Pinta since the 70's, so I cannot give any report about them today. I do know they were ‘hit and miss’ soon after their construction as to: hot water, any water, electricity, short-wave radio service, and were completely without heat in the bedrooms. We usually had a good time just patronizing the cantina and restaurant sections, then camping nearby.

For many years now, there has been a federal checkpoint at this state border. Both immigration and agricultural officials are stationed here to check documents and administer regulations.

Expect to be asked for fruits and vegetables..and sometimes meats. Your vehicle will be sprayed and you must pay a fee for such. Usually about 10-20 pesos.

We pull up and stop. A nice lady ag-agent comes from her oficina and politely asks if we have any fruits or veggies. No mention this time of meats. “No frutas, senorita...nada”...I say.

She then walks around to the passenger’s open window to put a small mirror under John M’s nose.


To her satisfacion, it fogs.

John jerks, opens his eyes and smiles. She smiles back and says.....'Gracias, amigos..Have a nice trip. Bien viaje.'

Now it’s immigration’s turn. Taking down vehicle license, our names, etc. No problema. We are all fine with our various FM-2's, 3 US SENATE bathroom passes, and a box of voter registration cards under Hilary’s seat.

Here is a photo of the eagle monument from 1974. It looks a tad different today...all dressed up.

We decide to pull in and spend the night at ‘GN’ before it gets too late in the day. It’s about 5:30 p.m. Plenty of time to find a motel and a good meal.

Driving the Baja Road at night is not that dangerous, but just not that much fun......and why pass up a chance to check some local sights of a city we usually overlook?

Some neat facts about..Gerro Negor...Gwayrow Negra...Grreraro Negative..??

C’mon DK, help a guy out here!

Did you know the official name of the town is Port Venustiano Carranza?...or PVC as some local plumbers say...well, maybe they don’t, but they SHOULD.

The name Guerrero Negro came from a 1800's whaling ship called Black Warrior, which was wrecked on a treacherous sandbar while attempting Vizcaino Bay to hunt grays.

Average annual temp in 'PVC' is a mild 72...pretty much the same temperature as San Diego.

The town exists today because of the sea salt industry started here in 1957....which is the biggest supplier of table salt in the world. Over 7 million tons a year, I was told.

Well, that’s a bunch... so I scooped both my empty salt/pepper shakers full. Forgive me, Lord, but my french fries need it.

While you are in the area, you can go kayaking around the salt marshes, and observe all kinds of birdlife: white pelican, the red-tailed hawk, white and black cranes, the golden eagle, and the sea eagle. The Vizcaino Desert is just to the east....duh....west is the ocean, Einstein. Impressive flora and fauna, amazing cacti and wide variety of animal species, such as pumas, coyotes, deer, bighorn sheep, antelopes, interlopers, and foxes.

The golden eagle is Guerrero Negro's emblem and you can spot several nests on the lamp posts or on the purpose-built towers throughout the town. That large monument at the army base was also constructed in honor of this incredible bird, right on top of parallel 28.

For years I had heard that it was a Phoenix...the fire bird....Baja rising from the volcanic ashes, so to speak...but that was just rum-induced nonsense started around a campfire by a certain Coyote Bay storyteller.

Most of us Nomads...and others..have come to see the gray whales at Ojo de Liebre Lagoon, also known as Scammon's Lagoon.

January though March is the best time for mating and calving. It's also the best time to watch whales doing the same...

You can watch whales from shore or boat. It's truly a magical experience that keeps all of us Baja hands coming back and back.

Here are some photos from our Guerrero Negro visit ..a couple days ago.

MAIN STREET INTO GUERRERO NEGRO


GOOD TACOS!


ANOTHER GOOD CAFE..


THE NARROWEST STORE IN BAJA..GOTTA BE.


THE SEA SALT COMPANY HQ

A NEWER PALM-LINED RESIDENTIAL LANE




[Edited on 5-25-2008 by Pompano]

[Edited on 5-31-2008 by Pompano]

THE MOTELS OF PVC...GUERRERO NEGRO

Over many years, we have stayed at pretty much all the motels in Guerrero Negro.

Some have been real nightmares. I'm talking c-ckroaches that were bigger than the rats swimming out of the toilet.

Times have changed and we are no longer allowed to carry firearms into the rooms. The good news is, there are some nice new modern units today.


Here is a line up of GN motel/hotels that we have bunkered in..in no particular order:

El Morro..La Posada de Don Vincente..Mini Ascuncion...Don Gus..Malarrimos...Los Caracoles ..San Jose..

....and you seldom have to bookslam a wolfspider crawling up the headboard at any of these.


EL MORRO


DON VINCENTE


MINI ASUNCION


DON GUS


MALARRIMOS


LOS CARACOLES


SAN JOSE

Guerrero Negro favorite motel..

Our usual stay over the last 30-some years has been at Mallarimos. Here's why for us. We like the option of roomy loft suites. It has: good quality mattresses, large secure parking area, sat tv, quality menu in restaurant, bar, gift shop, and hot coffee in the a.m. Dogs allowed with deposit.

Also, the place has some history to it. A popular spot, we have often met some Baja neighbors overnighting here. Good ambiance with an old-Baja feel. A comfy place to have dinner, some good vino, and fine conversation. Try the abulone if in season...simply great. The sopa de mariscos is pretty darn good, too.


About 400 - 500 pesos these days. Cards accepted.

[Edited on 5-25-2008 by Pompano]

Giving the new kid a chance...

The last 3 trips since November, through, I have stayed at Los Caracoles. A nice place..and fairly new, free Internet (although it is in the lobby,only), sat tv, spartan and small standard rooms, a larger suite is best.

Secure area, although parking is a real pain here if you have a large vehicle and boat trailer, etc.

Can be a little noisy due to early risers.

About 400 pesos for standard room. Larger suites were 650 pesos this trip.

Here are some photos from this trip:








[Edited on 5-21-2008 by Pompano]

I am really enjoying your photo road guide!

You have it right about the name GUERRERO NEGRO/ BLACK WARRIOR (after the whaling ship).

My information says that Puerto Venustiano Carranza was the name of the original salt loading operation, 6 miles from town on the elevated causeway across Guerrero Negro (Black Warrior) Lagoon... now abandoned, as that operation was moved to Sacmmon's Lagoon only a few years after being built. It is called the 'Old Warf' on the AAA map now.

Before being renamed Guerrero Negro, the (then) new salt mining town was first called 'Salina Vizcaino' (and is shown on a 1958 map as such). The construction of this new salt mine was started in 1957... and on the 1962 map, the name was shown changed to Guerrero Negro.

It was way off the original Baja main road (which went through El Arco), but when the new highway was built in 1973, it bypassed El Arco and headed right to the edge of Guerrero Negro, then north to intersect the old main road at Jesus Maria and again at Rosarito. So, before 1973 the only way to get to Guerrero Negro was by air or sea, unless you had a sturdy desert vehicle and time to negotiate the terrain.

Photo at the old warf, last July:

SPEED TRAP AHEAD

Guerrero Negro to Vizcaino

SPEED TRAP AHEAD

Driver’s reminder.... to use caution when going ‘slightly’ over the speed limit of 80kph (50mph) in this area.

For the last 2-3 years, a radar-equipped patrol car has been stationed just below the rise up ahead. See the photo.

Anecdotal information:

Tunes! You know how certain music can influence you, right?

Well..on one occasion a few trips back, I was driving south along on this stretch ..enjoying some soothing XM music. That great old song we all like to sing along with..“Those Lazy, Hazy, Crazy Days of Summer” by the late, great, Nat King Cole. I dreamily cruise along.

That song ended.. and the next was ..Boom!..Wow...“Ride of The Valkyeries!” by Wagner. Cymbals crashing! Crescendos..Remember the music from ‘Apocalypse Now’? My blood pressure rose, my foot goose-stepped down and stomped the gaspedal.... and before you knew it, I went from a relaxing 50mph to hurtling down the road at Warp Speed...a raving berserker. I rocketed past the blurred image of the radar car sitting in his little hideaway.

As I glanced in the mirror, I could see him turn out and come after me...I knew I was sunk.

I immediately slam-braked into a turnout and shut off the damn Valkyeries. This happened so quick I was actually stopped BEFORE the red lights came on. As he drove into the turnout I pulled up right alongside his driver’s window, said Hola, senor... and handed him my driver’s license. He looked a little disconcerted at my quick surrender. Then he smiles .. and said, ‘Much speed, senor. You drive very fast’ ....grin.

My mind is racing for some salvation as I see him mentally adding up my fine...then I blurt out that.. Yes, senor. I was worried about getting to Mulege quickly...Mi compadre’s Manuel Cuesta’s daughter is getting married today...Followed by about 500 or so people I know in my adopted Baja village...how long I have lived there...who I have borrowed money to...my long association with supporting the local police... which amigos drink Tecate v.s. who drinks Pacifico....who I am padrino (godfather) to from all the Monitos over the years....

....and a certain old girlfriend who moved to Guerrero Negro many years ago (although that one could have backfired.)

He listens to my pitiful story... his eyes start to glaze over.. and eventually he shuts me up, hands me back my license... says to have a nice day and quickly drives away. I got the feeling that if I had kept talking, he may have batoned me.

Sometimes it's not what you know...it’s WHO you know...and so never pass up a chance to drop a name to a cop.






[Edited on 5-21-2008 by Pompano]

Silent place.....

Guerrero Negro to Vizcaino stretch

We come to the Vizcaino Biosphere Reserve.

.

Unfortunately, my passengers are aghast at the landscape now unfolding before us.

The sight overlays all political agendas and highlights a dire diagnosis of the earth’s future health..

Right outside of Guerrero Negro begins one of the most littered sections of the Baja Road..a disgrace and blot on Biosphere Reserve. The litter does not all come from road traffic...indeed, the vast majority comes by way of prevailing winds carrying plastic bags eastward across the flat desert from Guerrero Negro’s open-pit landfill. They get snagged on cactus and mesquite as far as the eye can see.

It would be a godsend if the use of these bags and other plastic throw-aways could be reduced, or at least re-used more....but current economical and social conditions prevail in Baja ..and elsewhere. It’s often hard for the average breadwinner...and almost impossible for others less fortunate and uneducated to the problem. One can only hope that profit-in-recycling will come to Baja soon. There is a beginning, though. Already the tossed aluminum can’s life-span on the highway is numbered in days.

Damn, I hate plastic shopping bags. For many years, we have used our own cloth carrying bags when shopping...sturdy ones...’chic’ even... bought at Trader Joe’s in Pacific Beach long ago.

Hilary speaks out, "San Francisco recently took the lead to outlaw plastic bags at their markets." John Mc. mutters..."You can now marry your gerbil up there, too."


Somewhat glum from seeing the beautiful Baja desert so ill-treated, we drive silently east.. towards the vast Vizcaino Game and Habitat Reserve.

Hey, maybe seeing one of those pronged interlopers would perk up everyone up

[Edited on 5-25-2008 by Pompano]

Pompano, At one time it was plastic bags rather than paper bags. Save the trees etc.,! We're getting buried under tons of plastic bags, on land and sea.There're a lot of trees going to waste in the mountains around here, they're dieing from some sort of bug.

SMOKE!

We look off to the southwest and see a pillar of smoke coming from flame-engulfed buildings. This being the 'general' direction of Asuncion, we can only assume this to be the unfortunate results of the current rampant crime spree going on there.

We had earlier made plans to visit this much-lauded paradise...but at the sight of this turmoil..??

I said: 'I propose we cast votes on our future direction and policies concerning Asuncion.'

Pompano: I vote to go come hell or highwater...I hear the fishing is terrific and there's a chance of a party with shari and juan.

Hilary: First, what is the definition of 'on'?

Barack-O: Do you think that might just be a barbeque? I love ribs.


[Edited on 5-22-2008 by Pompano]

I am rolling on the floor laughing - this is toooo funny !!

[Edited on 5-21-2008 by Diver]

antelopes, interlopers, and foxes.

Hoo boy those interlopers! There's a regular exPLOsion of 'em in Montana these days!

And had you thought of leaving Hillary in San Francisco de la Sierra? She might have passed the time asking just who knew the way to San Jose, and pondering which way the plastic bags were blowing and how to use them to her advantage-- as in Barack can't win the plastic bag vote, and so will lose the election for democrats...

HUMOR BREAK - No interlopers left...

Well, dang...We drove clear across the vastness of the Great Vizcaino Desert without spotting a single interloper.

Interloper factoid: The whole herd sold out in California, bought Montana ranches, sport feathered Stetson hats, stuffed their feet into 2-sizes-to-small lizard skin boots by Gucci, and, by God, freed the livestock. The streets of Bozeman are a sight to behold these days. I go there for the sushi and badminton.

My aunt Mabel says she made uncle Gus quit telling the roadhouse boys the tale about the newbie interlopers who bought their Yellowstone River bottom land for $25 million.

Gus chews , y’know, and she’s afraid he’ll laugh-choke hisself to death..



"Well boys, I took them San Fran dudes down to old Mabel's garden patch and showed em that dad-gum green pepper that looks like that there Lance-boy at the beauty shop. They couldn't get their checkbooks out fast enough! Them fellers sure do giggle a lot."



[Edited on 5-25-2008 by Pompano]

VIZCAINO

Closing on Viscaino

We drive across the new bridge which eliminates the very dangerous hairpin curve that has claimed so many lives over the years. I can recall driving south when there were 2 crosses there...going north the following spring there were 7. That was 1980. The curve was finally discontinued and the new bridge has been in use for some time. A true life-saver. A ‘good news’ item.

Another ‘good news’ item. We pull off the Baja Road into the Pemex station at Viscaino top off.. and spot this always welcome sight.

A TRAILER FULL OF RECYCLABLES.

Keep those trucks rolling, hombres...there's still a huge supply waiting.

[Edited on 5-25-2008 by Pompano]

VIZCAINO FUEL STOP

Here is yet another 'good news' item about Baja.

Have you seen the new fuel pumps?...pretty classy..lights, sound, etc. For a minute I thought I was standing in front of a Double Diamond slot at Harrah's.

..and...

The low price of fuel! ..diesel and gasoline are now the best bargains of Mexico.

I just returned to Baja recently after a month-long trip through southern California and Hawaii. I put on about 1500 miles driving to destinations in California and saw the rising pump prices. Seemed like the next pump was always 25 cents a gallon more than the last.

Hawaii was over $5 for diesel at the marina. Station prices were around $4.50 or so. The US is not as high as some places in Europe and Asia, but closing rapidly. Australia is over $7/gal. A barrel of crude is selling for $135 ... the last time I looked. It could be $150 by next week..and $200 by mid-summer. Diesel prices are driving up food production and transportation costs, resulting in higher prices at the grocery store. Farming expenses are going through the roof.

Time for one of the hybrids, maybe? Who knows one that will pull 14,000 lbs?

Flashback - fuel prices: I remember going on a bass-fishing trip down to Toledo Bend, Louisiana way back in 1971. I pulled into a Shell Oil to see that regular gasoline had skyrocketed up to almost 40 cents a gallon! Going back a few more years..college freshman days...1961. Gas wars amongst certain retailers: 15 cents a gallon and the gas was pumped by gals in cheerleader outfits, wearing roller skates. Ah..those were the days.

After being gouged at all those diesel pumps, it was a relief to come back to Baja and still find this bargain. See below the diesel pump at Vizcaino a few days ago.

..and it's nice to be back home in Baja.


[Edited on 5-23-2008 by Pompano]

LUNCH BREAK - HIGHWAY AT VIZCAINO

And here we are....

I was so hungry by now that I could eat a horse.

Seeing no signs saying Carne de Caballo, we settled for this one, Restaurant Martitha. A good, family-style eatery just across the highway from the Pemex station.
.
[A typical breakfast (desayuno) for me is huevos rancheros. I am in a decades-old rut, but I still order this great dish..in search of the world's best perhaps? Being a eat-with-your-fingers guy at heart, I love to roll up a warm, freshly-made tortilla, and use it to spoon up the refrieds, eggs, salsa, rice, avacado slices, papas, and anything else that comes within range. Few dogs benefit from my table scraps.

Other orders ranged from hamburgers to chicken tostados. It was very tasty and we would go again.




[Edited on 5-25-2008 by Pompano]

THE BAJA EXPRESS

Hilary commented, “All this stopping in these small villages so close together reminds me of the old TRAIN campaign days back in Arkansas. And Hey.. I wanna tell ya, I had a ball being Governor. It was better than toga night at a sorority house.”

I think ',..wha..'

Well, I accommodate her seemingly muddled flash-back memories.. plus....we are all eager to get back on track ...so let's get crackin'.

'Interloper' spotted.

A nagging feeling had been bothering me for some time now. Hilary just didn’t seem like her normal self. I turned to ask her what may be the problem and caught her in an unguarded moment. Whoa! Hey.. An Interloper! OUT!

Bilary bows out..vows to return.

And then... there were 2.

VIZCAINO - SAN IGNACIO

On the road again.

Lots of tomato and other farming operations have sprung up in the area south of Vizcaino.. and getting larger every year. Let’s hope the underground water holds out. Hello to more plastic...and more ‘topes’. A northbound motorhomer was killed soon after the first large tope was installed.

Way down the road....Off to the east are the lofty mounts of the Sierra de San Francisco, where we have taken a mule-trip in the past. Truly a step back in time visiting a remote ranch with blacksmith, leatherworks, and helped to collect mesquite honey..ummm.

Southbound...About a day’s mule ride..or a short hour by ‘train’...from Vizcaino, we come to San Ignacio, a stark contrast to the desert landscape.

A palm oasis in the desert aptly describes this tranquil place. The freshwater lago, courtesy of the underground river, is a great place to spend a day or two. Years ago we would gig for large frogs here. Great supplements to our wild game dinners with quail, dove, and duck.
.

.
Earlier hunter/gatherers, the Cochimes, called this place Kadacaaman, ‘Red Grass River’.and you can readily see the red stuff growing on the lagoon’s shoreline. A side note: Years ago we once stayed at the Kadacaaman Motel in Vizcaino....a nice experience, if my memory serves me well.

We also used to come to San Ignacio for some great c-ckfights and festivals. Always a tad cooler than Pta.
Chivato and Conception Bay for us.


This oasis was first ‘discovered’ in 1719 by those persistent donkey-riding padres. This one being Jesuit Father Francisco Maria Piccolo and his mount, Speedy.

The zocalo adjacent to the 17th century mission, San Ignacio de Loyola is ringed with welcoming India trees, large and shady. One of my favorite squares on the peninsula. We used to camp there enroute in the early 70's and always had many friendly visitors.. including the padre who we helped install with a walled veggie garden.
.


.

If in the area, stop by and check out the museum...lots of info on nearby.aboriginal rock paintings and great artifacts of early mission life in Baja.

Mas ballenas! No, not the Pacifo kind...sigh.. Off to the west is San Ignacio Lagoon, another great gray whale location...also camping, shore fishing, and beach-combing. Although this year the camping seemed a little too noisy and crowded in late March-April.

All in all, San Ignacio itself is a most pleasant place to visit...or stay awhile.
.

[Edited on 5-25-2008 by Pompano]

Pompano,

The Three Virgins

Getting out of that hot locomotive, we jump back into the pickup and drive south of San Ignacio towards the distant Tres Virgenes on the horizon. These mounts have long been a landmark for all types of travelers.. cars, boats, planes, and donkey riders alike.

The recent geothermal electric-generating plant attracts many interested visitors. A good resource to tap, courtesy of Tres Virgenes and already supplies power to the area.
.

.
This area is a geologists dream...great place for a college field trip. The volcanic activity is still happening as one notices the steam vents around the base of the mountian/volcanos. The lava beds and flows are evident alongside the highway.

Hey...did you just feel a rumble?
.

Roger, can I convince you to drive out that paved road to the geothermal plant project at the base of Tres Virgenes and do a report for us?

There was a sign indicating a motel in there, when we passed by last July...

This would be real interesting to see the operation and facilities!

Sure, David. I saw that sign myself on this trip and almost took the detour, as I couldn't recall seeing the 'motel' info before. I will next time up that way.

[Edited on 5-25-2008 by Pompano]

‘CUESTA DEL INFIERNO’ DEAD AHEAD!

Mexican truckers dubbed it that...and rightly so. It's like dropping into Hades.
.
Time to stop and check the brakes.

This curving grade just 5 miles north of Santa Rosalia has had so many nicknames over the years I have lost track. We have called it:
'73 - 'What the?..Kids! Jump for your lives!'
‘74 - that son-of-a-b-tching grade (blew an engine)
‘75 - El Diablo
‘80's - Jakebrake Slide, DeadDrop, Whiteknuckle Canyon, and Move Over A-Hole Pass
‘93 - that son-of-a-b-tching grade (blew a tyranny).

My main problem is always the fact that I am usually pulling a heavy trailer of something or other. I always envy those ‘unfettered’ souls sailing past me up the mountain...or zipping down without a care..actually enjoying those sharp curves! Thoughts over the years: ‘Why did I have to bring this damn 30' sailboat?..or that Bertram twin diesel..or a 32' fifth wheel with 102 pairs of ladies high-heeled shoes?’

There are more auto, truck, and trailer parts at the bottom of El Diablo than have been sold by Napa Auto.

An especially exhilerating sight is coming around a curve and seeing a flare smack in the middle of the road. Your right foot smashes through the floorboard onto the blacktop as the doors open and the passengers bail.

And...you see odd things on that hairy grade almost every trip. I once came around the last downhill S-curve to see a rolled green pepper truck on it’s side. The flat area next to the truck was mounded with it’s cargo...and had a couple shoppers on it already. I drove past to the first pullout and went back to score some roadkill myself. Baja Road Rule #8 - Never pass up a rolled pepper truck.

I hope that climb/drop section never changes. The grade always commands attention...and gets me..excited.

..Hmm.. I think I will rename it..Viagra Hump.

[Edited on 5-27-2008 by Pompano]