BajaNomad

YUCATAN PENINSULA TRIP coming up soon

BajaBlanca - 1-17-2012 at 04:26 PM

hi all, we are planning our first ever Yucatan trip and would love to hear about your adventures/misadventures, as well as any recommendations you have. We are not looking for ritzy glitzy but simple dimple. so far we are thinking of Merida, the flamingo reserve, Cancun, Isla Mujeres, Campeche, (of course chichen itza) and the ruins/cenote at DZIBILICHALTUN. Due to my teaching .... we only have a week this time....and I don't want to overdo it (famous last words)....

THANKS in advance.

Skipjack Joe - 1-17-2012 at 04:58 PM

I suppose they should be recent?

Udo - 1-17-2012 at 05:09 PM

We went there a few years ago (8 yrs).
With only one week, I would stick with what you have planned, which is somewhat optimistic, however.

paranewbi - 1-17-2012 at 05:48 PM

Lots of time in that area...
Merida is cool but busy. If your driving there is a periferico(?) that runs around the city like a spoked wheel on a bike with turn offs going in...the hard part is finding the way out! We just flag a cycle cop and he usually leads us out, then a handshake with a fiver concealed for his cerveza.

Chichen Itza is nice but stay in town and get to the ruins when it opens...usually blazing hot within a few hours and the tour buses from Cancun arrive about that time. Gets real crowded.

Campeche is ok...nice wall around old part of town to see on the shore but really is a day of just seeing something differant. If your driving, try to avoid the large trucks hauling pigs. The Urin off the hot pavement in front of you is not nice. Usually a rest stop and then go.

I have never had an interest to go to Cancun as there are many places just as nice to snorkel south of there and when you come to the turn off from the 180 to the coast I just go south on the 325. From this turn you can see Cancun off in the distance you might decide to avoid that unless that is your style.

The 325 is a modern highway with many attractions along it and much of what you mention...only different names, etc. In Tulum if you go...do not miss the open grilled chicken with all the fixens at the roadside stands. Please mail some to me. Tulum is nice but at all ruins it is best to get there when they open. If you see a dirt road with a sign on the 325, go down it. We have found some of the best non-tourist places on these...if there is still any left.

A little opinion if you want one...
I would spend a night and a day in Merida, then leave the next day. I would head down the 261 straight to Uxmal and stay in the small town heading out to Uxmal at opening the next morning. If you get there early the first day ask someone if the light show still goes on in the evening and hit that the first night...pretty cool. I love Uxmal. Look for big penis carvings on way to witches abode, hug one of those babies for a photo. They sit along the path in solitare locations. I would think 3 hours in Uxmal is suitable.
When it gets to hot, do the 261 loop and stop at some of the smaller ruins around there...maybe a half hour to an hour each one is enough. This is a real short tight area and can be managed in a day. Leave the next morning south on the 261 to hopelchen(?) and then west on the 261 to campeche if you want but this is time I would not venture to. Another path that might be better is to go south on the 261 after hopelchen looking for the sign to Edzna (ruins) with a stop of maybe an hour because it will get hot real fast.
OK...now this is a big decision...I would do anything to go to Palengue at anytime. This is going to eat up at least two days from Uxmal to there, then tour the ruins and leave early the next morning. You are so close to Palengue (reasonably) that it would be sad to miss it. Other than Tikal it is the coolest ruins with paths in the jungle to walk and see much (I have been at both these places at least a dozen times each and would go there again in a heartbeat).
Really, if you went Merida, Uxmal, Palengue, then back north on the 186 past Escarcega (get the open grilled chicken there...send me some) and spent one night in Bacalar (little town north of Chetumal) then straight up to Tulum on the 307 with all the possibilities for ruins/cenote/snorkel that you could ever want then onto Cancun if that is where your flying in...your week would be amazing.
Campeche, Chichen Itza, Cancun would be the last places I would ever spend time but that is said because I have been there and so have another billion people...
I wish I could leave for a week and drive you around, but so does my wife and she can't leave so neither can I. Oh I guess I could, but I couldn't come back. These ruins I've named are probably her favorites also, with or without me.

Packoderm - 1-17-2012 at 05:53 PM

I'd cut it back a bit. I'd center myself in Tulum (the beach not the town), visit Coba, various cenotes and minor ruins, and one night of luxury in Playa del Carmen or Cancun at the end.

Packoderm - 1-17-2012 at 09:39 PM

This is what we did on our first trip to the Yucatan, and we managed to see quite a lot in one week's time: http://www.greentortoise.com/adventures/maya.caribean.mexico...



Packoderm - 1-17-2012 at 10:59 PM

I think this is the last remnant left of the old riviera, and it's about gone too. http://casatortuga.net/ I'm surprised they held on as long as they have.

We stayed for a week at our own private rental compound once for about $125 per night for three cabanas, a kitchen, the whole thing. Now they have about six cabanas built there and want several hundred each night for each one. I feel very, very privileged to have known the old Tulum. I believe Isla Holbox is still good. I really liked that place. That might be the only decent place left. It's a bit like Bahia Asuncion is now.

paranewbi - 1-18-2012 at 04:55 AM

Packoderm...that operation in the early 90's was a crack-up (good humor). They would pull into a campsite and everyone would sort of roll out (mostly young travelers) and stand around while the poor bus driver would try to get them motivated to get stuff out of the bus to set up. The inside looked lilke wood platforms with people lying on personal effects and couches.

Not to get to far off the thread here...but does anyone remember the German coffin buses that used to do the circuit?

Packoderm - 1-18-2012 at 05:25 AM

I remember the red buses with sour looking German tourists.

SFandH - 1-18-2012 at 08:19 AM

We had an enjoyable day and evening at Xcaret when we did a fly-in resort trip to Cancun.

Fun activities, entertaining shows, and many interesting exhibits. Stay for the dinner show.

http://www.xcaret.com/

We passed on Chichen Itza. Instead we rented a car and drove to Tulum for the compulsory Mayan ruin experience. We find archaeological sites boring. Different strokes for different folks. Tulum is on a great beach, which made it worthwhile for us.

BajaBlanca - 1-18-2012 at 09:23 PM

thanks all, truly, for taking the time to write and give me your wisdom. I really appreciate it.

I used this site when we went to the copper canyon by train. It was beyond helpful.

I used this site when we went to mainland last year. again, priceless.

and now I am ready to get a taste of what the yucatan has to offer !! we talked this morning and I would like to try and not overdo it. we can always go back ....

has anyone been to the flamingo reserve ???? and thoughts on that ? Les heard about it ....

BajaBlanca - 1-18-2012 at 09:24 PM

skipjack ! no no no - doesn't have to be recent ... please tell your story.

tiotomasbcs - 1-19-2012 at 06:58 AM

One week?! My Goodness, Blanca. So much to do, so little time. You didn;t mention but you are flying into Cancun, verdad? Look up some ecolodges in the areas inland. It sounds like paranewbi knows his stuff!:tumble: Palenque for sure. Better start working out to walk those Pyramids and Ruins. Have fun. Tio

wilderone - 1-19-2012 at 11:11 AM

On week is not very much time to see all the wonderful places on the Yucatan peninsula. Pick one region: northwest, north-central, east coastal or southern. If you're flying into Merida and staying there you can cover Chichen Itza, the limestone caverns at Valladolid, several Mayan ruins (at least 13 on my map in just the northwest alone), several cenotes - a must (take a mat to float on), the beach at Progreso, the flamingos at Celestun, and poking around small towns en route to all those places and a museo or two. Don't spend all your time in the car driving around and hitting just the major tourist spots, filled with - tourists. You could fly into Cancun, rent a car and do the Maya Ruta east coastal route with much the same itinerary: cenotes, several ruins, Tulum, Coba, beaches, small towns, museos.

Bajahowodd - 1-19-2012 at 05:16 PM

I didn't notice any comments about Isla Mujeres.

It's about a 30 minute ferry ride from the Nuevo Cancun dock. And well worth the trip. Although some purists might complain that Isla has become overgrown, fact is that our number one destination when landing at the Cancun airport is Isla.

There are a number of fine accommodations, none that I would consider upscale.

My two greatest pleasures while on Isla are the amazing turquiose water, with beach that have a gentle slope, and...

The main drag that is a pedestrian mall for something about ten blocks, lined on both side with a wonderful array of restaurants that run the gamut from taqueria to Cuban to Italian to... whatever you might conjur.

Really recommend spending a few nights on Isla. And, assuming you really wish to explore the Yucatan, be advised that if you rent a car at the airport, they have valet parking at the Nuevo Cancun facility.

We spent a day at Chichen Itza, and in Merida, drove back and left the car with the valet and had another amazing meal on Isla Mujeres.

Packoderm - 1-19-2012 at 05:27 PM

One thing to consider is the weather. If it is bad, head inland. The wind dies down as you head inland. Walking through ruins with an umbrella is much nicer than hunkering down in a cabana to escape the blustery, rainy weather, but even that is nice enough if you have a good book to read.

BajaBlanca - 1-19-2012 at 07:45 PM

wow..again more good info. I looked at a weather map and there is supposedly NO rain at all in Feb. - actually, Les chose this month cause it is the best time all year round.

I want the east coast and Les wants inland - flamingoes etc. We shall have to see how we can resolve this LOL

I was wondering about isla mujeres !!! muchas gracias

we shall fly into cancun and take off from there ...

Iflyfish - 1-19-2012 at 07:53 PM

I really love Tulum, the wonderful Pyramid on the beach, the white sand beaches, the cenotes, Celestun for the Flamingos and Merida is one of my favorite cities in Mexico! Really too much for a week from my perspective.

In Merida look for the oval shaped palm frawn roofed buildings that offer regional tapas and beer plus a free floor show of native dancing etc. Wonderful way to while away a day/evening. The Yucatan has it's own regional quisine and Merida is the place to sample it. I like the market in Merida. The parkes are wonderful and have lots of public entertainment in them.

Enjoy!

Iflyfish

Marc - 1-21-2012 at 07:16 PM

My Buds from Netherlands and I are planning to do the Ruta Maya next January.

Spearo - 1-21-2012 at 07:26 PM

Hi Blanca!

I spent a couple weeks in that area a few years ago. Chichen Itza is definitely worth seeing. We hired a local guide to tour it and it was well worth the money, The place is sprawling and the guide was very helpful to get the whole experience. We drove all the way to Xcalak and fished Chetumal Bay for a week. There are a ton of smaller ruins along that road that are very interesting as well. If Les wants to wear himself out catching bonefish Xcalak is a great destination.

We are planning on stopping in La Bocana again in late March this year. Are you guys going to be around?

BajaBlanca - 1-21-2012 at 08:50 PM

we'll be here Spearo !!! I willl be teaching for a couple hours every day feb - march april may june LOL so we shall be right here !!

ummmmm can you pick up our mail from my mom's house in san diego on your way down ???? that would be awesome.

Skipjack Joe - 1-21-2012 at 10:56 PM

If ruins are your highest priority then head for Palenque. Chichenitza pales in comparison. Otherwise I would center on the Tulum area and enjoy its beaches and cenotes. The coastal road from Tulum to Punta Allen is worth taking.

Kalypso - 1-22-2012 at 11:08 AM

BB, I was in the Yucatan last Feb/March. Here are links to some of the things we saw and places we ate

Merdia
Hotel Maria del Carmen
Casa Balam
The Maria del Carmen is $35-$45 at night. It's clean, well maintained, nice pool, good restaurant. Casa Balam is more centrally located, big rooms, on the parade route during Carnival, $75 a night +/-.
Local 3 We were not particularly impressed with the food in Merida, but Local 3 was very good. Contemporary Mexican, best sangria, one of the few places in Merida serving and using Mezcal.
Sotuta de Peon Tour a working henequen plantation. There is also a cenote in which you can swim and an option to purchase a meal at the end of the tour. Definitely go for the meal, the food is good.

Valladolid
Taberna de los Frailes very, very good food. Beautiful setting, like eating in someone's back yard under a palapa. Don't be put off by the "gourmet mayan" designation they've given themselves. It's very creative food, well done, but not frou-frou food in the least. Also visit the church next door. One of the first build in the Yucatan. If you see it as the sun is setting the bricks and stones have a wonderfully warm color and glow to them. Lots of regional history there.
Ek Balam Valladolid is very close to Chichen Itza, but it's also close to several other fuins. See Ek Balam in the morning before it gets hot. Interesting structures with some features not found at other ruins. Also not overrun with tourists.
Coba is also close to Valladolid. Huge site, flat, easy to negotiate, zip line over crocodile infested waters if you're interested
Casa de Venados restoration project, now home to a massive folk art collection. Open to the public, worth seeing even if you're not into folk art. Proceeds go to support local medical operations.
Hoctun Cemetery Only in Mexico do you send someone to see a cemetery. But this one is worth stopping and walking around in. The locals got very creative after the cemetery filled up in the early '60s.

Campeche
Hotel Castelmar good location, close to the malecon. Nice rooms, good service, excellent staff
Marganzo Not necessarily the best restaurant in Campeche, but it was good, especially for breakfast. Excellent margaritas de tamarindo.
La Pigua Another good restaurant
Things to do in Campeche
Barco Pirata Lorencillo No link, I couldn't find it. But, there is a replica of the pirate boat Lorencillo that does 1 hour tours out into the Gulf of Campeche. It's cheesy, it's fun and if it's hot, it gets you out on the water and some breezes going.
Edzna Very large Mayan ruin just outside of Campeche. Go early, take water and a hat, BLAZINGLY hot. Impressive and very climbable pyramides.

Rent a car, roads follow a lot of the old Maya routes and are dead stright with scrub jungle growing up to the road. Driving is not difficult, just a little boring :yes:

Have a great trip.

[Edited on 1-22-2012 by Kalypso]

BajaBlanca - 1-24-2012 at 05:25 AM

Kalypso ... thanks so much ! are you a tour guide ??? those are amazing notes !

just printed up everyones ideas and we shall be deciding what to do as of next Sunday when we arrive .... and jump into our rental car at Cancun airport.

good news is tht we already went to Palenque on our last trip so it will be chichen itza this trip ... although I saw pictures of the hordes of folk there. jeez louise. UGLY sight .... I want us to be the first ones in ....

Iflyfish - 1-24-2012 at 09:42 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by Kalypso
BB, I was in the Yucatan last Feb/March. Here are links to some of the things we saw and places we ate

Merdia
Hotel Maria del Carmen
Casa Balam
The Maria del Carmen is $35-$45 at night. It's clean, well maintained, nice pool, good restaurant. Casa Balam is more centrally located, big rooms, on the parade route during Carnival, $75 a night +/-.
Local 3 We were not particularly impressed with the food in Merida, but Local 3 was very good. Contemporary Mexican, best sangria, one of the few places in Merida serving and using Mezcal.
Sotuta de Peon Tour a working henequen plantation. There is also a cenote in which you can swim and an option to purchase a meal at the end of the tour. Definitely go for the meal, the food is good.

Valladolid
Taberna de los Frailes very, very good food. Beautiful setting, like eating in someone's back yard under a palapa. Don't be put off by the "gourmet mayan" designation they've given themselves. It's very creative food, well done, but not frou-frou food in the least. Also visit the church next door. One of the first build in the Yucatan. If you see it as the sun is setting the bricks and stones have a wonderfully warm color and glow to them. Lots of regional history there.
Ek Balam Valladolid is very close to Chichen Itza, but it's also close to several other fuins. See Ek Balam in the morning before it gets hot. Interesting structures with some features not found at other ruins. Also not overrun with tourists.
Coba is also close to Valladolid. Huge site, flat, easy to negotiate, zip line over crocodile infested waters if you're interested
Casa de Venados restoration project, now home to a massive folk art collection. Open to the public, worth seeing even if you're not into folk art. Proceeds go to support local medical operations.
Hoctun Cemetery Only in Mexico do you send someone to see a cemetery. But this one is worth stopping and walking around in. The locals got very creative after the cemetery filled up in the early '60s.

Campeche
Hotel Castelmar good location, close to the malecon. Nice rooms, good service, excellent staff
Marganzo Not necessarily the best restaurant in Campeche, but it was good, especially for breakfast. Excellent margaritas de tamarindo.
La Pigua Another good restaurant
Things to do in Campeche
Barco Pirata Lorencillo No link, I couldn't find it. But, there is a replica of the pirate boat Lorencillo that does 1 hour tours out into the Gulf of Campeche. It's cheesy, it's fun and if it's hot, it gets you out on the water and some breezes going.
Edzna Very large Mayan ruin just outside of Campeche. Go early, take water and a hat, BLAZINGLY hot. Impressive and very climbable pyramides.

Rent a car, roads follow a lot of the old Maya routes and are dead stright with scrub jungle growing up to the road. Driving is not difficult, just a little boring :yes:

Have a great trip.

[Edited on 1-22-2012 by Kalypso]


Great post!!!

I really liked the scale of Ek Balam, my favorite along with Tulum, the only pyramid built on the water. Get there at sun rise and you will miss the tourists and see an amazing sunrise. Few people visit Ek Balam.

Given your short time I would recommend that you head out of Cancun to Tulum and then to Valladolid which puts you in the area of Ek Balam and Coba, pyramid with moat and crocks. His comments about the restaurant in Valladolid is right on, a great stop!

As you drive out of Cancun the first Pemex you run into is a scam joint. Make sure you use pesos, they can play more games with a $20 bill than you can imagine. I went back for a third time just to see the slight of hand again, incredible!! People stop there in their rental cars because of its convenience and because the tourists are adjusting their thinking to pesos/dollars, it is a great place to get ripped off.

We drove the Sean Kian sp? bioreserve and it was interesting though we blew a tire. The birding trip out of the log building in Tulum, accross from the Francisco Market is well worth it, reasonable price and biologist guide.

If in Merida look for the large oval shaped, thatched restaurant/bars that offer tapas of regional quisine and entertainment, often very good, for the price of the beer you nurse for the afternoon. One of the delights of Merida.

In hindsight I would pass on Celestun given your time frame. You go there for the flamingos, thousands of flamingos. If you do go there I would recommend that you take a small boat to see the cenotes, magical places.

Have a great trip!

Iflyfish

Bajahowodd - 1-24-2012 at 05:18 PM

The one good/ bad thing about Chichen Itza: Visiting there a few times in the 80's and 90's. we hiked up to the top of the Kukulcan pyramid. The view was spectacular.

However, and actually for the good, the Mexican government made that journey off-limits in the last decade because they were attempting to limit the erosion.

A recent video that has been on PBS, shows President Calderon and his host walking up and entering the pyramid. But then, he is el presidente.

Bajafun777 - 1-25-2012 at 01:53 AM

When in Cancun a few years back, we went on the quad jungle run where everyone drives their own quad through the jungle areas. Pretty cool with different types of animals you will see and several neat underground swimming caves with small zip line inside, once you ride the cave zip line, just make sure you drop into the water before the cave wall drops you off off of it,LOL. They also have zip lines over the trees and one really deep water hole with a steps leading down to the bottom to swim in or as a few did on dares just jump from the top down to the bottom. It is a very fast trip to the bottom into some cold water and yes hold your breath when you hit the water, as you will have to get busy swimming upward due to deep entry as you hit the water.
Had very good time in Cancun and lots of land adventure type outings you just need to pick one and boating adventures too, so FUN no matter what you pick. Many great places to eat and have all the cold ones you want,LOL> Hope you have great FUN and weather is good for you guys. No Hurry, No Worry, Just FUN" bajafun777

Bajafun777 - 1-25-2012 at 01:53 AM

When in Cancun a few years back, we went on the quad jungle run where everyone drives their own quad through the jungle areas. Pretty cool with different types of animals you will see and several neat underground swimming caves with small zip line inside, once you ride the cave zip line, just make sure you drop into the water before the cave wall drops you off off of it,LOL. They also have zip lines over the trees and one really deep water hole with a steps leading down to the bottom to swim in or as a few did on dares just jump from the top down to the bottom. It is a very fast trip to the bottom into some cold water and yes hold your breath when you hit the water, as you will have to get busy swimming upward due to deep entry as you hit the water.
Had very good time in Cancun and lots of land adventure type outings you just need to pick one and boating adventures too, so FUN no matter what you pick. Many great places to eat and have all the cold ones you want,LOL> Hope you have great FUN and weather is good for you guys. No Hurry, No Worry, Just FUN" bajafun777

BajaBlanca - 2-6-2012 at 09:21 PM

well amigos, as the week is now over and I look back on all your ideas, I realize how wonderfully helpful they were. I was thinking about all of you at one time or another:

soupatch - we did Coba and it was great
lemcho - we ate all the yucatecan dishes cause you mentioned the "corn"
kaypso - the roads are pretty but you do indeed get bored (I fell asleep between towns)
paranewbi - bacalar was probably my personal #1
don jorge - we stopped at the prison and we saw the hammocks. $$$$$
iflyfish - I ws not impressed with Merida and can you please explain why yu like it so much ??? we must have missed something. the food was not so great. the centro historico was nothing during the day but EXQUISITE at night. I dunno, but we didn't "get it".
bajafun777 - I am not into the danger fun but those cenotes are awesome

in the end it was one incredible week and we are already discussing when we will return and are encouraging friends to come with us this time.

so thanks all thanks all thanks all.