BajaNomad

Missions, Hot Springs, Cave Art (2012)

geoffff - 6-25-2012 at 12:38 AM

Shell Island

I tried to camp my first night at DavidK's Shell Island, but the access road was flooded with gooey mud. A little crab with a huge claw waved me away.


South of Puertecitos

More and more pavement! Paved road has now reached (gps: 29.9391,-114.5265), almost at the turn-off for Punta Bufeo.


Next I explored the coast southeast of Bah�a de los Angeles.

Santa Maria Magdalena

I visited Santa Maria Magdalena, DavidK's "Lost Mission" site. (Thanks, DavidK!)


Bah�a de las Animas

I camped here on the beach, near the fishing village of Las Animas. The card�n cactuses were blooming.


Punta Ballena

(Thanks again, bajanomad MICK for sharing this place!)


Mesa el Carmen Cave Paintings

I found these pictographs scouting around on Google Earth before my trip.


Mis�on Santa Gertrudis


San Cosme Hot Spring

At the bottom of the steep road down from Mesa Siquito is San Cosme, where there is an underwater hot spring close to the shore. It is only accessable at low tide, from a seashore "road" that is usually submerged. The local ejido has added a locked gate on this route, so I had to ask the caretaker for permission to enter. He repeatedly expressed how much he liked my baseball cap, so I left it with him as a gift.


Sierra la Giganta

Next I spent a couple days taking the backroads inland from Loreto up over Sierra la Giganta to Mis�on San Javier, and onwards to the Pacific coast along a rocky dirt track. Slow going!

Mis�on San Javier

The road to San Javier is paved, but very winding and steep. The mission is in great shape, and is interesting to explore inside & out. (gps: 25.8610,-111.5438) I wonder what that carefully placed potato was about?


Then, heading west again, the going got rough -- steep and rocky -- often washed out. If I had a motorcycle I bet I could cover this ground much quicker, but with my van's stiff suspension I was often travelling at 15 MPH. Bumpity bumpity bump. I passed sites my map identified as Monte Alto, Palo Chino, and Las Animas -- each having just a few ranch buildings with thatched roofs and walls made of woven mats. Nobody was around except for some very hungry looking goats who were very excited to see me and disappointed when I left.


El Horno

This ruined structure once was used to make mortar for building the nearby missions. (gps: 25.9965,-111.7104)


Mis�on San Jos� de Comond�


The main road out of town heads southwest. I instead took the more minor road northwest, which climbed steeply back up onto the mesa, with a great view of San Jos� Comond�. The town cemetery is also up there. (gps: 26.0593,-111.8338)


El Pabellon

I love roads that climb to mountain peaks. El Pabellon is topped with a set of radio towers, and so has an access road (verified in advance by satellite photo) -- a very steep & narrow crumbly 4x4 road, it turns out. From the top I watched the sunset, and camped for the night. (gps: 26.0988,-111.8952)


Driving down was almost as exciting as driving up.


Continuing west.


Next I headed west to the Pacific coast on a nice sandy road. I was surprised when I encountered pavement (new, I assume, as it was not shown on my map). (gps: 26.2086,-112.3598) This smooth paved road lasted only until San Juanico.


Bah�a San Juanico (Scorpion Bay)

Sandy beaches and the busy fishing boats at San Juanico. (gps: 26.2597,-112.4714)


Salitrales San Ignacio

From San Juanico, I continued northwest driving a smooth dirt track over Salitrales San Ignacio -- salt flats up the coast to Laguna San Ignacio.

Estero El D�til



Estero Delgadito

Studying satellite photos of this area before my trip, I found a road out the two-mile narrow peninsula northwest of the fishing village of El Delgadito. It looked like a beautifully remote place to camp. Tracking this location down in person, I was stopped by a friendly resident of El Delgadito who assumed I was lost trying to find my way to San Ignacio. After explaining that I really was intending to go this way, he shared that he thought this spot was his favorite, most beautiful location -- [almost] surrounded by water. He was extremely chatty (and patient with my limited Spanish), finally inviting me to breakfast and fishing the next morning (tempting but I declined).

End of the peninsula, Estero Delgadito. (gps: 26.6352,-113.0812)


Estero el Cuarenta

More sandy beaches (Pacific side) and mangroves (marshy estuary side). (gps: 26.5485,-112.9886)


Continuing northwest again -- more salt flats...


At Vizcaino I made a side trip from Highway 1 southwest to Bah�a Asunc�on. A road also continues westward all the way to Bah�a Tortugas, but as of May, 2012 the newly-constructed pavement ends only about 15 miles west of the Bah�a Asunc�on intersection, where the route reverts to wasboard hell. (gps: 27.46435,-114.18939)

Bah�a Asunc�on (Scorpion Bay)

The town of Bah�a Asunc�on is a beautiful location (gps: 27.1247,-114.2966), marred only by some areas of sprawling trash just northwest of town.


Punta San Roque

This road ends at the little fishing village of San Roque. (gps: 27.1830,-114.3955) A few steep dirt tracks continue west up into the hills of Punta San Roque, but I encountered them blocked by locked chains. One such track did have a well-used track going right around its gate, so I decided to risk taking advantage of this bypass. (gps: 27.1874,-114.4030)


Punta San Roque is covered in a network of newly-bulldozed 4x4 dirt tracks, which are often unnervingly steep. After finding a few coastal lookout shacks (appearing recently occupied), I came to the realization that this area might be used by the military to watch for smugglers. It was fun to explore, but I decided not to camp around there. What do you think?


Bah�a San Pablo

West of Punta San Roque are the beaches of Bah�a San Pablo, a scenic place to camp for the night. (gps: 27.1934,-114.4277)


Las Pintas Petroglyphs

This is an extensive region of boulders marked by petroglyphs. I spent hours clambering around photographing any carvings I spotted.


A little cave contained what appeared to be some kind of stone tools for grinding.


The rocks themselves were also interesting -- many of which are made of up fossils.


Unfortunately, a little bit of modern graffiti mars the rocks at the "entrance" to this area.


Cactuses and other interesting plants thrive here, often squeezed into sandy pockets in the boulders.


I have a few more photos & details here: http://octopup.org/baja2012

-- Geoff


[Edited on 4-25-2019 by geoffff]

awsome post!!

captkw - 6-25-2012 at 02:39 AM

damn nice photo's !! Thanks K & T :cool:

BajaWarrior - 6-25-2012 at 04:33 AM

What a great trip, looks like you covered all the bases!

Skipjack Joe - 6-25-2012 at 05:57 AM

What a cool trip! You got to some really remote places. I really enjoyed that and am looking forward to seeing more on your website.

woody with a view - 6-25-2012 at 06:15 AM

good times. how long for the round trip?

geoffff - 6-25-2012 at 07:30 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by woody with a view
good times. how long for the round trip?


This was 10 days in Baja. Here's a rough map from my GPS track log:



-- Geoff

[Edited on 6-25-2012 by geoffff]

SFandH - 6-25-2012 at 07:47 AM

Cool pop top van!! Great baja rig for gettin to just about anywhere.



Thanks for taking the time to post the thumbnail pics.

[Edited on 6-25-2012 by SFandH]

Mexitron - 6-25-2012 at 07:51 AM

Wow, that's a lot of territory to cover! Thanks for the report.

David K - 6-25-2012 at 08:19 AM

Wow, I need to come back when I have more timem, to study your photos better... Sorry that you couldn't get onto Shell Island at high tide... It is an island, afterall!

Very full trip, a lot of Baja in 10 days!

nbacc - 6-25-2012 at 08:28 AM

nice report............enjoyed that Nancy

goldhuntress - 6-25-2012 at 08:29 AM

Thank you for taking the time to share your AWESOME photos and trip report! Love the van!

TMW - 6-25-2012 at 10:36 AM

Excellent report and pictures, thanks.

Neal Johns - 6-25-2012 at 10:54 AM

One of the best trip reports w/photos I've seen!

But I'm just a kid - shut up DK!:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
Neal Johns

BajaGeoff - 6-25-2012 at 12:37 PM

Great report Geoff.....you covered a whole lot of ground in 10 days! Really nice photos too!

Cool Pic!

David K - 6-25-2012 at 12:55 PM



Really outstanding... :light:

BajaBlanca - 6-26-2012 at 04:04 PM

I so agree - outstanding report. wish you had stopped by ourneck of the woods ! you could have driven the coast road from la bocana to bahia asuncion....it is very beautiful.

stop by next time and say hi !

geoffff - 6-26-2012 at 04:17 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by BajaBlanca
I so agree - outstanding report. wish you had stopped by ourneck of the woods ! you could have driven the coast road from la bocana to bahia asuncion....it is very beautiful.

stop by next time and say hi !


Thanks, will do!

Maybe I should try to do an all-coast tour someday -- drive a loop of every coastal road where one exists. Has anyone done that?

-- Geoff

bacquito - 6-27-2012 at 07:31 AM

Great report-thanks!
Were you traveling alone? What navigation equipment do you carry? Is much of your trip planned in advance via sat. photos?

GregN - 6-27-2012 at 08:05 AM

Great trip. Great pics. Congrats.

geoffff - 6-28-2012 at 01:18 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by bacquito
Great report-thanks!
Were you traveling alone? What navigation equipment do you carry? Is much of your trip planned in advance via sat. photos?

Yes, this trip was done alone. While I do often travel with family or friends, the introvert in me sometimes craves the total freedom of time adventuring by myself. I frequently hear how it's considered foolish to get yourself far from civilization without a backup vehicle -- but it's a risk I take with my eyes open. I bring a mountain bike (disassembled inside the van), oodles of water, a satellite phone (rented), a cheap Mexican cell phone, a Spot device -- and, in general I'm pretty crafty field-repairing things. Even on the most remote parts of my trip, I was never more than a few miles from ranchos, fishing villages, or recent-looking tire tracks.

In my car, have maps of Mexico showing on a little touchscreen notebook computer (Asus Eee PC T91MT) mounted on my dashboard connected to a GPS.

I spent much of my free time before this trip studying books, maps, and the internet (especially this forum, and including Google Earth). If you are exploring a new regions in Google Earth, look for the subtle little “photo” icons to pop up. A well-placed photo can indicate an adventure treasure.

-- Geoff

[Edited on 6-28-2012 by geoffff]

shari - 6-28-2012 at 02:11 PM

Holy Smokes Geoff...you saw more of baja in 10 days than most people...including mexicans...see in a lifetime!!!

About those tracks around san roque, san pablo etc...these are vigilancia roads that are patrolled 24/7 by trucks & quads from the fishing coops to reduce poaching of mostly abalone. This makes it very very safe to camp in this remote area because it discourages the bad guys and if anything happens to you...a vehicle will come by at some point....they will check you out to make sure you arent poaching too.

David K - 6-28-2012 at 02:34 PM

Geoff, I tip my sombrero to you amigo! Your web site is great and speciallyn the how to use maps on your lap top, notebook, etc. I would like to put the EL CAMINO REAL mission roads on such a format... You can see them on Google Earth for a majority of the distance between Loreto and San Borja, and I have hand drwan the route onto copies of the Baja Almanac (2003 edition) maps... I have posted them all here on Nomad, as well.

Again, mil gracias for your sharing!

geoffff - 6-28-2012 at 02:41 PM

Thanks for solving that mystery for me, Shari!

Yes, those trails did seem more suited for ATVs than my big van. They were a bit ... exciting.

-- Geoff

bacquito - 6-28-2012 at 07:13 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by geoffff
Quote:
Originally posted by bacquito
Great report-thanks!
Were you traveling alone? What navigation equipment do you carry? Is much of your trip planned in advance via sat. photos?

Yes, this trip was done alone. While I do often travel with family or friends, the introvert in me sometimes craves the total freedom of time adventuring by myself. I frequently hear how it's considered foolish to get yourself far from civilization without a backup vehicle -- but it's a risk I take with my eyes open. I bring a mountain bike (disassembled inside the van), oodles of water, a satellite phone (rented), a cheap Mexican cell phone, a Spot device -- and, in general I'm pretty crafty field-repairing things. Even on the most remote parts of my trip, I was never more than a few miles from ranchos, fishing villages, or recent-looking tire tracks.

In my car, have maps of Mexico showing on a little touchscreen notebook computer (Asus Eee PC T91MT) mounted on my dashboard connected to a GPS.

I spent much of my free time before this trip studying books, maps, and the internet (especially this forum, and including Google Earth). If you are exploring a new regions in Google Earth, look for the subtle little “photo” icons to pop up. A well-placed photo can indicate an adventure treasure.

-- Geoff

[Edited on 6-28-2012 by geoffff]


Thanks for the information-really interesting.

Yes!

El Vergel - 6-28-2012 at 07:34 PM

Wow!
What a great Trip Report!

geoffff - 6-28-2012 at 11:31 PM

Thanks! It really is fun for me to share all this after these trips. I've fleshed out my trip report here a bit more and added it to my personal website:

http://octopup.org/baja2012

-- Geoff

David K - 6-29-2012 at 08:32 AM

Great Geoff...

If I could just help with locations on you map: The mission was San Jose de Comondu (the town removes the 'de' in its name). Downstream is the next town of San Miguel Comondu, but there was no mission by that name. A visita called 'San Miguel' was there, and some historians say that San Jose de Comondu mission was located at San Miguel for a year while the final site was being prepared.

There are petroglyphs called San Fernando, just a mile from the mission of San Fernando http://vivabaja.com/105 The petro site you went to is 'Las Pintas'...

geoffff - 6-29-2012 at 10:27 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by David KIf I could just help with locations on you map:


Yes, thanks so much for the corrections. I'll make fixes...
-- Geoff

David K - 7-1-2012 at 12:33 PM

My pleasure! In the name of history and adding to all of our knowledge of the California Peninsula, I hope that everyone considers it as always friendly and in good intentions that we help each other in learning more about the place we love... and to spell the places we go to correctly. That only can help when doing Internet searches for more information on a place.

Thank you so much for your sharing of your Baja adventure!

geoffff - 7-1-2012 at 02:23 PM

Agree completely!

-- Geoff

Marc - 7-4-2012 at 08:01 AM

Awsome:bounce::bounce::bounce:

rhintransit - 7-4-2012 at 08:20 AM

thanks for the great report...loved the photos and how you were able to publish them

Ribbonslinger - 12-16-2013 at 05:57 PM

Hi Geoffff

What was the road like into bahia de las Animas? Was it worth it when you got there?

Thanks

Skipjack Joe - 12-16-2013 at 06:22 PM

That panorama at Delgadito has got to be my favorite. Did you stitch a series of images for that one?

TacoFeliz - 12-16-2013 at 08:55 PM

Really tremendous trip report and a most excellent photo gallery. Thanks!

Kgryfon - 12-16-2013 at 09:38 PM

Very nice trip report and great photos! Thanks for sharing!

wilderone - 12-24-2013 at 10:39 AM

Now that's a Baja trip! Great report - great photos - great destinations. Absolutely inspiring!! Thanks for the armchair tour.

Bob H - 12-24-2013 at 10:58 AM

Finally sat down and looked at this amazing trip report! WOW!! Loved every minute of it. THANK YOU!!

David K - 1-28-2014 at 12:07 PM

Nice we have these trip reports to enjoy!

geoffff - 4-1-2014 at 03:04 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Ribbonslinger
What was the road like into bahia de las Animas? Was it worth it when you got there?

The road was an easy dirt track. Much nicer to drive on than the washboard "main road" from BOLA to San Francisquito. I enjoyed my camping spot on the west side. Pretty location next to the tide flats. I perhaps should have done some more exploring, following that further road north out to towards Punta el Pescador. In any case, the main reason I was in there near Bahia de las Animas was to check DavidK's "lost mission site" at that location. I'm into old ruins, even if there's not much there. Here are my pics.
Quote:
Originally posted by Skipjack Joe
That panorama at Delgadito has got to be my favorite. Did you stitch a series of images for that one?

Yes! I like playing with panoramas.

-- Geoff

David K - 4-23-2019 at 08:23 PM

Bump up of geoffff's super 2012 trip report.

Skipjack Joe - 4-24-2019 at 02:16 AM

geofff,

Where was the Dudleya sp. plant found? Do you still remember? It's the bluish roseatte plant shot near the very end of your list. I'm just looking for the general area.

Skipjack Joe - 4-24-2019 at 02:34 AM

This was shot in the area you labeled 'more salt flats' just south of Laguna San Ignacio.

DSC_0202_psd1 copy.jpg - 242kB

gueribo - 4-24-2019 at 07:20 AM

Quote: Originally posted by geoffff  
Maybe I should try to do an all-coast tour someday -- drive a loop of every coastal road where one exists. Has anyone done that?

-- Geoff


Hope you will, and post photos and more great trip reports.

geoffff - 4-24-2019 at 09:01 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Skipjack Joe  
geofff,

Where was the Dudleya sp. plant found? Do you still remember? It's the bluish roseatte plant shot near the very end of your list. I'm just looking for the general area.


This plant was near GPS:29.8986,-115.4085



-- Geoff

geoffff - 4-24-2019 at 09:06 AM



Skipjack Joe - 4-24-2019 at 05:37 PM

Thanks geofff. I've found several species of Dudleya in Baja but not this one. Once you start watering them they grow bigger very quickly. The blue and red is particularly attractive with this one.