BajaNomad

Copper Canyon Recommendations, please

Mula - 8-10-2016 at 05:41 PM

2 of us are planning an early January trip to the Copper Canyon - from Loreto / Los Mochis.

We are planning on the first class train.
Food and good beds are important to us.
Internet/wifi/cell not important.

Any suggestions about where to stay and meals?

Thanks.

bajalinda - 8-11-2016 at 02:29 PM

We had a great trip to Copper Canyon, but not recently - it was 8 years ago! I'm glad to give you info on the places we stayed, but just keep in mind it may not be totally up to date. (These places all have websites - check them out.)

We flew La Paz to Los Mochis. Then, taxi from the airport to the bus station downtown. Took the bus from Los Mochis to El Fuerte. Overnight in El Fuerte because the train leaves El Fuerte at a reasonable hour in the morning, so you have time for breakfast and time to get to the train. If you get the train in Los Mochis, it means getting up really, really early.

Hotel in El Fuerte: Hotel La Choza - great hotel, would stay there again.
We really liked El Fuerte and were sorry we had planned to stay only one night there. Would have been nice to have a day to see more of the town.

We took the train from El Fuerte to Creel. Stayed one night in Creel at the Parador de la Montana. It was not worth the price at all and I would not stay there again. Heater in the room was flakey and the place just had a run-down feel to it.

Other people we met stayed at the Casa Margarita's and it was highly recommended. We took a look at it and it looked great - wish we had stayed there. As a back-up option, there is also a Best Western in Creel.

As for Creel itself, I have to say that we found it far from enchanting. Lots of wood smoke in the air which really bothered Rob. The local restaurants we chose to eat in were horrible - couldn't seem to find a good meal. (However, those who stayed at Casa Margarita said the food there was good.)

So we were happy to get in the van to Batopilas the next morning. Hotel in Batopilas: Casa Real de Minas - a lovely small hotel. We loved this hotel. It's very small - only 5 or 6 rooms around a beautiful, peaceful courtyard. The owner/manager, Martin, was a helpful and wonderful host.

I think we stayed 2 nights in Batopilas, then back to Creel and the train back to Los Mochis. In Los Mochis we stayed at the Monte Carlo and it was very so-so - wouldn't stay there again. We found Los Mochis to be kind of underwhelming. If I were to make the trip again I'd get off the train in El Fuerte on the way back. For some reason, the train between El Fuerte and Los Mochis slowed to a ridiculous crawl and we thought we'd never get to Los Mochis - it took forever.

Hope that helps - have a great trip!



Mula - 8-11-2016 at 03:07 PM

Thank you, thank you Linda.

DENNIS - 8-11-2016 at 03:11 PM


I suggest you read a book named, "God's Middle Finger." Amazon has it.

KurtG - 8-11-2016 at 03:55 PM

Quote: Originally posted by DENNIS  

I suggest you read a book named, "God's Middle Finger." Amazon has it.


My personal opinion is that the author doesn't believe the truth should get in the way of a good story. It is a good story though.

Mula - 8-11-2016 at 04:02 PM

Thanks Dennis. I already have it and have read it. BajaCalifornian turned me on to that book. I have his other book, too.

DENNIS - 8-11-2016 at 05:19 PM

Quote: Originally posted by KurtG  
Quote: Originally posted by DENNIS  

I suggest you read a book named, "God's Middle Finger." Amazon has it.


My personal opinion is that the author doesn't believe the truth should get in the way of a good story. It is a good story though.


'Splain please. Where is his report less than factual?

KurtG - 8-11-2016 at 06:46 PM

Quote: Originally posted by DENNIS  
Quote: Originally posted by KurtG  
Quote: Originally posted by DENNIS  

I suggest you read a book named, "God's Middle Finger." Amazon has it.


My personal opinion is that the author doesn't believe the truth should get in the way of a good story. It is a good story though.


'Splain please. Where is his report less than factual?


Just offering my opinion. There is no way to know if the events he described actually happened. It is just my personal opinion that the tale was sensationalized a bit.

BajaBlanca - 8-12-2016 at 07:11 AM

Linda's account sounds remarkably similar to ours. Differences include:

1. I really liked Creel. There is a small museum at the train station that was very interesting. We stayed at a smallish hostel right across the square in front of the train station. It was very cheap, breakfast was included which gave you a chance to mingle with others. Nothing to write home about but good beds!

2.Most of the stores there sell carved snakes made by the Indians that are absolutely unique and I have not seen anything remotely similar anywhere else in Mexico. they were so inexpensive and I bought many and gave them away as gifts that year.

3. We also did not spend more time at El Fuerte and it sure looked interesting.

4. The trip down the mountain to Batopilas was hair raising. One of the only times I have seen my husband pale. and cuss non stop. My faith in God is so great that I was not worried and my thought process was that the bus drivers do the trip every single day ergo lots of experience. We also stayed at the REAL DE MINAS hotel. So beautiful.

5. I will look for the bajanomad trip report I did so you can get more info as well as see photos. It was a WONDERFUL experience and I would do it again in a heartbeat.

6. we found absolutely no difference between first and second class except that 1st had a food wagon. Also, if I am not mistaken, you want to sit on the RIGHT on the way to Creel and on the LEFT on the way back to get the best views.




[Edited on 8-12-2016 by BajaBlanca]

BajaBlanca - 8-12-2016 at 07:14 AM

http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=47353#pid5410...

http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=47357#pid5411...

http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=47386#pid5597...

[Edited on 8-12-2016 by BajaBlanca]

fourninerpapa - 8-12-2016 at 07:55 AM

Take warm clothing. We were in Creel 4 years ago in January. It got down to 22 deg and snow on the ground. We were not prepared for that at all. Other than that we had a great time.
Have fun.
Norm

Sweetwater - 8-12-2016 at 10:19 AM

I did a moto trip through the region 4 years ago.
Several of us got eaten up by gnats (noseeums) in El Fuerte.
Since we were on backroads and on motos for 2 weeks, our experience was very different from a tourist visit.
I found the people to be engaging but a lot of militants with assault rifles in all the villages.
We were warned away from a couple of towns, don't go there or within 20 km.
It was so much fun and so interesting, I'd enjoy going again. However, the ultramarathon run out of Urique has been cancelled 2 years running due to cartel violence and concerns.
The Tarahumara's that we saw were not in good condition and their villages were the poorest I've ever seen.

Edit: The region is massive and with great topography and elevation changes. The advice to bring warm clothes is spot on.


[Edited on 8-12-2016 by Sweetwater]

Bajahowodd - 8-12-2016 at 04:54 PM

We found Creel fascinating. Probably the biggest disincentive for this trip is the continued cartel activity at the North terminus.

bajalinda - 8-12-2016 at 06:27 PM

Blanca - you're right, that museum by the train station in Creel was interesting. Wish we had felt more comfortable in Creel, but we just didn't.

The little museum in Batopilas was good also. And that drive down the mountain to Batopilas is one we won't forget either.

bill erhardt - 8-13-2016 at 04:42 PM

A great thread, this. I'm sure I'll come back to it when it's time to plan a trip.
Does anybody have a recommendation on the best time of the year to visit CC?

AKgringo - 8-13-2016 at 05:39 PM

My parents last visit to Mexico was in the 90's, and they did a tour through the Copper Canyon in their motor home, on a flatbed railroad car!

I wouldn't have a clue how to make that arrangement, or if the service is still offered. They enjoyed the experience, but I know that my mom would have preferred a lot more people to talk to.

DENNIS - 8-13-2016 at 07:07 PM



And, the difference would be....what?

wilderone - 8-13-2016 at 08:43 PM

"... my personal opinion that the tale was sensationalized a bit." My opinion as well. He actually goes into a bar in the heart of narco land, and asks around about drugs.

Anyway, for a Copper Canyon trip, I would recommend staying in El Fuerte and going for a hike across the river to see the Nahuatl petroglyphs. Hotel Posada del Hidalgo is very charming - they have a restaurant. Checked out Rio Vista hotel - quirky, view of the river. We stayed at a 3-room motel of sorts, that had a pool, run by a gringo from Sacramento (her husband's family owned the land). Anyway, includes breakfast - our taxi driver suggested it and we were pleased. Ask about the restaurant that is famous for its garlic soup.
I would also recommend getting off the train at Divisadero. The hotels there are pricey, but right on the canyon rim. Worth the money IMO. Tarahumara women come to the hotels and weave baskets - they'll teach you how -- and sell stuff. There are also horseback rides into the canyon. We rode about half-way down to a family's home and visited a while, and returned.
Yes, go to Batopilas too. Take the local bus - not the tourist van. Get your tickets the night before (bus leaves early - about 7 am?). The bus ride is an event in itself. The village is walkable and interesting; hike along the river to Satevo.
And be warned that some people hog the open air spaces between rail cars to take photos and don't play nice. If you want this space as well for sight-seeing, you'll need to devise a plan. Three of us would take turns at "our spot", so as not to lose it.
You'll have a blast.

wilderone - 8-14-2016 at 09:03 AM

The Zetas are aggressive, offensive types whose business is multinational criminal activity and will annihilate those who get in their way; the Zapatistas are simply defending the exploitation of their land and defending their lives from Mexican military with orders to annihilate them and take their land for multinational profit. A tourist is welcome in Zapatista comunities; a tourist is a threat to a Zeta.

Copper Canyon Trip

crowbar - 8-15-2016 at 08:03 AM

I went in March 2015. Hot during the day but ice on windshields in morning in Creel. Trip pictures are posted in non baja trips

daveB - 8-16-2016 at 11:21 AM

Keep your hands in when out between the cars, never know when you will start through one of the dozens of tunnels!

DianaT - 8-16-2016 at 12:39 PM

A number of years ago we drove down to Batopilas and stayed at Hotel Juanita---- it was rather basic, but nice and the owner was really friendly and helpful. We also loved the location as it is right on the square in town.

We, however were not aware of one thing ---- the time change between Creel and Batopilas so we rather embarrassed ourselves. We had agreed with the owner that she would turn on the water heater in the morning at 7am and when it was not on, we went and knocked on her door. Opps, it was only 6am.

Marc - 8-22-2016 at 06:25 AM

Quote: Originally posted by DENNIS  

I suggest you read a book named, "God's Middle Finger." Amazon has it.


Read the book & have been there 5 times since. Last time guided by Diego Rhodes. Fantastic experience. I will post pics later.

Marc - 8-22-2016 at 05:29 PM

Been to Copper Canyon five times. The best trip by far was with Doug (Diego) Rhodes as our guide. See his hotel web site. If you take the train he will pick you up at the stop at Divisadero for an overnight at his hotel. We drove down to Urique for two nights then over the ridge (rarely traveled by Gringos) and down to Batopilas for another stay over, and up the other side and back to Creel where you can catch the train back to El Fuerte. Doug knows everyone. In the image Doug is standing near the my truck.

http://www.mexicohorse.com/

On the ridge

Diego & Pete Dawson


[Edited on 8-23-2016 by Marc]

Mula - 8-22-2016 at 05:50 PM

Thanks Marc, I will get ahold of Doug and see what is going on in January.

Marc - 8-22-2016 at 06:27 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Mula  
Thanks Marc, I will get ahold of Doug and see what is going on in January.


Great! Tell him Marco & Pete say hello.
BTW Take warm clothes. The canyon rim is at high altitude in a beautiful pine forest.