TRIP #2 (FEB 2017) Central Baja Expedition: San Ignacio to Loreto to San Javier, Comondú, La Purísima, more!

EDIT: Report & Photos sized for message boards and no watermarks are here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2017-baja-expedition-2-c...


An incredible trip of 10 days that included great weather (a bit cold at night), great Baja Nomads, some I met for the first time, and great but rough dirt roads. I went to many missions and visita sites. Here is a list:

San Ignacio, Mulegé, San Juan Londó, Loreto, Ligüí, San Javier, El Horno, San José de Comondú (1736 site), San Miguel (Comondú), La Purísima, Comondú Viejo (1708 site), and San Borja.

I traveled most of the known roads to the beaches between Santa Rosalía and Ensenada Blanca (below Loreto) and the rough roads between San Javier and Comondú, on to La Purísima and back east to Hwy. 1.

I also drove both roads into/ out of San Borja and checked out an abandoned gold mine with many open, deep shafts that I could not see the bottom of.

I took photos and notes at each site, recorded kilometer markers and mileages on the dirt roads all as part of a project to gather new data on Baja travel that we may all have access to. For the time being, just refer to my 2017 trip Reports here on Baja Nomad to see and read about some of what I saw.

DAY ONE (Jan. 30, 2017):

Leave my North San Diego County home at 6:53 am. My vehicle is a 2010 Toyota Tacoma OFF ROAD TRD, 4WD, 4 door pickup. 265/75-16 Hankook Dynapro ATM tires. Almost stock, except for Bilstein 5100s all around and adjustable Ride Rite air springs on the back. Light bar in front with four CREE LED 7" lamps (2 spot beams and 2 driving beams).

Head to Calexico, buy pesos (20.20 per dollar). Cross into Mexico at 10:12 am. I get the green light but am flagged (flash lighted) to pull over (typical with a loaded pickup truck). After a short look-over, she sends me on south (never asked about FMM needs, but I had one already).

At San Felipe (12:24 pm), I top the tank and buy an extra 7 gallons to put into my empty 5 and 2-gallon cans, for insurance, should there be a gasoline issue. My truck has a 21-gallon tank and has just over a 300-mile range under these driving conditions. As it turned out, I did not need the extra gas cans as no stations were closed and I never dropped below 8 gallons still in my tank.

Military Checkpoints southbound (Hwy. 3 Jcn., Gonzaga Bay) did not stop me, or just a quick question of where I was coming from and where I was going.

At Gonzaga Bay at 2:06 pm and hoped to have a fish taco or two. The restaurant next to Rancho Grande was closed, and the taco shack in front of the market was out of fish so she was making potato tacos!!?? Out-of-fish in Baja is a crime! I went into the market and bought some crackers, cookies, and a Milky Way bar... as I did not want to take the time to go to Alfonsina's or Papa Fernandez' restaurants.

The pavement ends 20 kms. south of Gonzaga and is followed by almost 23 miles of fair, graded road, used also as construction access as they are building the final section of a paved Highway 5.

I reached Hwy. 1 (Laguna Chapala) at 3:15 pm. The construction detours were not bad, and the older road still used was only bad for about 2 miles past Coco's Corner.

Reached the L.A. Bay junction at 3:41 pm. The El Tomatal military checkpoint at 4:22 pm, not even looked my way. Villa Jesus Maria seems to have been renamed VALLE JESUS MARIA (unless the government signmaker goofed, and that happens a lot). I stopped for gasoline and had quesatacos (no fish here either) for dinner at Kassandra's next to the Pemex station. I was on the road again at 5:07 pm and soon saw the sun set.

At the Eagle Monument (it is in need of paint), which is the state border, and change to Mountain Standard Time, at 5:30 pm >>> now 6:30 pm. The charge for driving over the Baja California Sur state insect spray strip is 20 pesos. No INM officer or request to see FMM here as in years past (or at any time during the trip).

Arrived at San Ignacio at 8 pm (MST) and stayed at the La Huerta Hotel (650 pesos) for a great night sleep!

PHOTOS:


Km. 99, south of San Felipe


Desert south of Laguna Chapala, near El Crucero.


Kassandra's taco shop, Km 95, Villa Jesus Maria, Pemex Station.

DAY 2... where the data collecting gets serious... coming next!





[Edited on 6-5-2021 by David K]

Subscribed

DAY 2: San Ignacio to Punta Chivato

La Muralla, giant levee built by the Jesuits...

This page from Harry Crosby's 1974 history adventure book The King's Highway in Baja California had me wanting to see this magnificient structure that to me would be like finding a pyramid, being such a grand structure in 1700s Baja California.




Just east (southbound) of the paved entrance road to old San Ignacio and the Km. 73 marker, turn right into the large dirt lot going to the far end. The Baja Oasis Motel is just past this lot. Park and walk to the Muralla...




To find a piece of Baja history I had read about since I was a teenager makes the journey just that much more exciting. Baja is a magic place!





A mortared spillway on this incredible dam and dike complex built in the 1760s.





The base.

Quote: Originally posted by 4x4abc

So, David, the section shown is about 0.30 miles long. Where are the remaining 2.7 miles?

I only walked along it a couple hundred feet to the east (behind the Baja Oasis Motel. The brush and cactus were too thick to easily go further. The west end where blasted out by flash floods or ??

Here is the west end, by that dirt lot I parked in:



You can see it was just cut through... The side arroyo comes in to the San Ignacio river here.



[Edited on 2-17-2017 by David K]

Hotel Volcan Tres Virgenes

The most recently active volcano on the peninsula is passed between San Ignacio and Santa Rosalia, Tres Virgenes is the complex of three volcanoes...






Km. 31.5 Paved road north to an eco-lodge, Volcán Trés Vírgenes (1.8 mi. in). 5 ؙcabins have 10 rooms with shower and toilet, 350 pesos. Food served in the lodge. The paved road beyond the resort (gated) goes to a geothermal electric plant.



Francisco (likes to be called 'Borrego') manages the lodge and he showed me around... I will be back!

Quote: Originally posted by bajagrouper

Funny, one man's expedition is another man's vacation......Lol

Yep, but this is work... (nobody is calling me to install sprinklers or drip when it is raining every week!)

I hope the end result will be utilized and enjoyed by everyone interested!

In 2017, I hope to have traveled all the routes and side roads that vacationers, tourists, campers, and photographers may wish to use. There will be an avenue to update my work and add more to what I hope to make.

I have always admired Howard Gulick, Cliff Cross, Tom Miller, the Auto Club team, Walt Peterson, Jack Williams, and others from the 1950s-1990s for their guidebook contributions to Baja travel.

You all here on Baja Nomad get a sample of my photos and trip notes. I also copied my stuff to Tacoma World and had onto Talk Baja, but when I was seeking some alternative ways to share trip reports on Facebook, it irritated the moderator, as they were not understanding what I was asking for and I wasn't just going to give up trying with making sure there was no alternative solution. Anyway, they don't want my contributions anymore, and I was blocked, LOL! Guess they will have to come to Baja Nomad for the good details!? It was just a lot of work to post trip details and photos on Facebook in a way that connects to new folks seeking data and be viewed into the future. I will keep trying, however. Baja is such a wonderful gift, after all!

PEACE LOVE and FISH TACOS!

Amazing! Good Work

SAN IGNACIO PICS

Because Nomad crashed in the middle of my posting Day 2 photos, I kind of jumped ahead when it was back online.

Here are some photos I took in San Ignacio on Tue. Jan. 31, 9 am+, before I went to La Muralla and the Tres Virgenes Volcano hotel.

I am mainly trying to show places to camp or motels for travelers along with points of interest.
Let me know if you need any data on these pics. I will put them in order as if you were driving into town, from the highway, and heading out to San Ignacio Lagoon:





















Hotel La Huerta (and restaurant)

SANTA ROSALIA, and south, Jan. 31, 2017

Ferry Terminal


Hotel El Morro

SAN LUCAS:











SAN BRUNO:



I missed Pescador, he was fishing!

SHELL BEACH/ PTA. CHIVATO




Casa de Russ, where the great sunrise photos come from.

Russ took me for a Polaris ride around Punta Chivato. I want to thank Russ for his awesome hospitality (and great tacos that night)!















END OF DAY 2 (Tue. Jan. 31, 2017)

For those not sure where in Baja these photos were taken... look at the center and gulf coast side...



Day 3 coming next! (Mulege and Bahia Concepcion)


[Edited on 6-1-2018 by David K]

Quote: Originally posted by Cliffy

COOL! Lots of places we saw on our last trip down. R U going to do something like say a "tripadvisor" on each hotel/motel for those of us who will do our next trip "on the local economy" by stopping at hotels instaed of dragging a trailer? Keep this going please.

GRT stuff DK also grt info on your Pole line story gracias

Quote: Originally posted by BornFisher

Thanks, I needed that!!

Quote: Originally posted by BigBearRider

Nice to see the Chivato pics! Sad about the old hotel.

This weekend (tomorrow+) I will get much more posted... It just gets better and better!

Rain coming down sideways right now here in North County San Diego!

Teaser:

First view of Comondú canyon from the road from Loreto/San Javier:



Isn't Baja SUPER!

[Edited on 2-18-2017 by David K]

DAY 3: Mulegé Area and Bahía Concepción (most of)

It is Wednesday morning, Feb. 1, 2017, and it was a quiet wind-free night at Punta Chivato (Shell Beach). Thanks again to Russ for the hospitality and ATV ride around the area, yesterday. I was up at sunrise to take a photo, as Russ does here, but there were no clouds for the big ball of fire to illuminate, so no photo.

I got on the road at 8:45 am (MST) and drove the approx. 8 miles back to the highway at Palo Verde to begin the next section of note and photo taking...

SANTA INES (Km. 155.5)

2.8 miles in there is an unsigned fork. To the left, in 0.2 mi. is a fishermen's home or camp and what appears to be an area for camping. But, you cannot see the water (low sand dunes) from there. Going back to the fork, and taking the right branch went 1/2 mile to a parking area next to a beautiful beach... 3.3 miles from the highway.









Perfect! However, there are stories of robberies, here in the past. So a little danger with paradise!

On to Mulegé:


Through town and on the north river road.




Some palapas on the bench between the river and gulf.



El Patron restaurant (end of the north road) was closed (sign said open at 11), but just west, was Casa de Pancho Villa restaurant. WHAT A GREAT PLACE! Willy Airstream (Richard) had recommended it. I had a shrimp omelet with fries, fresh squeezed OJ and coffee, all for just 95 pesos... =US$4.75. They had wifi so I could check emails and Nomad while waiting. Met a traveler there who, later came to Loreto two days and attended my book signing.


The 4th California Mission, Santa Rosalía de Mulegé, founded in 1705.


The stone church was built in 1766, just before all the Jesuits were removed from the New World.


The mission site is reached from the south side of the bridge over the river at Km. 134, and a paved road turns left and goes under the bridge to the mission.

More Mulegé from along the south side of the river...




Km. 133 Jungla Jim's (was busy).


Cuesta Real (hotel & RV park). Km. 132/133


Villa María Isabel RV Park. Km. 132+

The Hotel Serenidad (Km. 131+) was pretty quiet looking. Such a big place, and almost no clients in sight. The airstrip looked okay, a bit wet still maybe (it rained a week earlier).

The Pemex station is at Km. 130, and I am pretty sure the pumps here are rigged to short the amount pumped by about 15%. I didn't need a lot today, but in a few days, it was more evident when I returned.

Here are a few Bahía Concepción shots:


Playa Brisas del Mar


Playa Frambes Lighthouse Resort (Bob & Susan on Nomad)


Los Narranjos bungalos for rent (300 pesos).










Playa Santispac and most the other places were wall to wall snowbirds (90% Canadian).

MORE COMING...

Leaving Santispac. The mangrove below is where the hot springs of Santispac are... in the mud.


Playa Escondida (Km. 111+)


The road back to the highway from Playa Escondida


Playa Los Cocos (Km. 110.5)


Betha's Restaurant/Playa El Burro (Km. 108.5)





EL COYOTE, Km. 107 (Famous sea level palms):









PLAYA BUENAVENTURA, Km. 93+ (Mark & Olivia's):





EL REQUESON (Km. 92, to the left):







LA PERLA (Km. 92, to the right):












Camping fee, 100 pesos.

End of DAY 3.

DAY 4, Thursday Feb. 2 (Groundhog sees his shadow)

It was a pleasant night at La Perla. I introduced myself to the one other camper, at the north palapa. A man named Serg from Quebec and his wife (didn't see her that day). He bought one of my books. Serg had been there for many days or weeks, very content. Beats winter in the Great White North, eh?





I was on the road at 9:45 am...
One more camping beach is just south...

Playa Armenta (Km. 90+ and 89+)
[the + means about 1/4 kilometer from the marker, or just out of sight]




It is about a kilometer (0.6 mi.) drive in from the north entrance, on the original road to La Paz.



Heading south, I wanted to see San Nicolas. Heard lots about it and seen Nomad photos in the past... Nomad 'Vgabndo' (Perry) used to have a place there. He gave Baja Nomad the term "Peace, Love, and Fish Tacos" as our motto.



The junction for San Nicolas is just past the Rosarito restaurant and along the runway built during the construction of Hwy. 1 through here about 1970-1971. It is just south of Km. 62.









Flash flood(s) have really cut through here in the recent past.
It is 10.6 miles to the beach from Hwy. 1 on fairly good graded road, complete with highway signs and kilometer posts. A 'Chuy's Sportfishing' sign is in the village area. Nothing looked like a camping area or any rooms (or at least signs), so back out to the highway.

At Km. 59+ is the graded road west to San Isidro and La Purísima. This road I will be traveling in a few more days is NOT maintained and should be avoided by most, only trucks and SUVs, as it is very rough. Only a few miles near Hwy. 1 (here) are smooth and fast. Flash floods and rain of the past couple of years has been hard on the roads in Baja Sur.

The next coastal area I wanted to see was San Juanico and San Basilio. There are two roads in. The first is unsigned at Km. 48.5 and the second has a big sign (Km. 40) the reads to NOT use this road, go north to Km. 49.
I would see later that this Km. 40 road is chained closed on the east end and is for the use of the property owner of San Basilio, all are welcome to San Basilio, but use the natural arroyo road at Km. 48.5. So back north I go up Hwy. 1, 5 miles...





There is an unsigned fork at Mile 6.8. The left fork goes 2.4 miles more to the fishing village of San Juanico. No camping facility or rooms were seen.



Back to the fork, and going on the right fork (and keep right in 1 mile at another fork) in just 1.5 miles met up with the graded road from Km. 40, and was chained closed. A San Basilio property guard met me where these burros were and told me I could camp ahead, no problema.



3.3 miles from the fork, or 10 miles from Hwy. 1 is a cattle guard crossing and a fork. I could see many campers to the right, so I first went left about 1/2 mile to a deserted beach:


San Basilio north beach.


The left end after the sand part.

The road to this beach continues up a hill to the private home area. I went back to see the other beach, on the bay with yachts offshore. It is 1/2 mile from the cattle guard fork to the south beach.










San Basilio south beach.
I took photos and made a U-turn and left. Other vehicles were on the beach, note tracks.

Back out to the highway and southbound again.

Just south of Km. 30 is a signed road right to the mission site of San Juan Londó, an important visita (mission visiting station/ chapel) of the Loreto mission from around 1705 and later attached to the Comondú mission.
You go just 0.4 mile, and park between the ruins and a ranch. A cemetary is next to the site.







At Km. 26+ is a road that leads east towards San Bruno, the oldest Spanish ruins in California (1683-1685) where an attempt to establish a mission and colony was made.

The military checkpoint is at Km. 24. The did not even look at southbound cars.

Approaching Loreto...





The first missson and capital of California (Baja & Alta)...
















Here is El Caballo Blanco, Jeannie's bookstore, she had asked I bring her 15 books when she heard I was going to be in Loreto and if I could give a lecture on the missions the following night. If you haven't seen my book yet: www.oldmissions.com is where the publisher sells it (also on my personal site www.vivabaja.com I am pretty proud of my baby, it is now in its third printing.



I got a room at the Hotel Angra for 830 pesos (=$41.50), it has secured parking in front of the rooms, which are in a courtyard of sorts. It was nice, had wifi, and a continental breakfast was included.

The place is new, the room is nice. The only gripe was a neighbor's rooster was crowing at midnight the first night and barking dog was active the next night. Neither were the management's fault, of course.

END of DAY 4.

To be continued!

[Edited on 2-18-2017 by David K]

Quote: Originally posted by blackwolfmt

Lks like u were hittin the quite places DK,, what camera were u using for all the pics ?

Quote: Originally posted by Cardon

I think he used a Canon Powershot sd1100 is which first came out in 2001. The camera is ok but all the shots are a little bit soft and should be run through photoshop or lightroom to clean them up. Even photos from the most expensive Canon and Nikon cameras can use a little bit of clean up.

DAY 5 Fri. Feb. 3, 2017

Today I explore around Loreto.

I first want to say what a great dinner I had the previous night with Baja Nomad 'ncampion' who picked me up at the hotel and took me to Orlando's. A winner, for sure! I had the Cilantro Fish plate and Nick had the Mango Fish plate. Ice cold Pacificos made it a complete meal with chips and salsa.

Okay, so first thing is, being a history guy, I wanted to see what came of the first fishing resort in town, from the 1950s, the Flying Sportsman Lodge. It had the town's first pier in front. It was the cover of the famous Ray Cannon book, The Sea of Cortez:



That book was published in 1966.




The pier in 2017

On south to see any camping possibilities between Loreto and where the highway begins to climb the sierra and leave the gulf coast for La Paz.

Km. 117+ is the paved highway west to San Javier, where I will go tomorrow. This is about 1 mile south of Loreto's entrance road.


Km. 99.5 View Parking


The Sierra Giganta.


Palm grove near the beach, just south of Juncalito, Km. 97.


The beach, some campers.

Puerto Escondido Paved road near Km. 94


Yacht Harbor

The harbor is a mile+ in. Closer to the highway is the Tripui Hotel and RV Park. They offer lawn camping. Very friendly. Camping is $10/pp, RV with hookups is $20/pp and a hotel room is 1,290 pesos (=$64.50).

A bit closer to the highway from Tripui complex is an unsigned dirt road south. It seems to be a secret area but not really, as every spot was occupied by snowbird campers! A sign along the way reads Playa El Quemado. It is 1.5 miles to the mostly rocky beach and spots along the beach between sand hills with brush extend a half mile to the south.









Km. 84+ Ligüí, a small town on the left. Turn off highway at the school, before the road begins the uphill climb.



The road left was badly mangled by a flash flood and the white cross and white painted rocks outlining the mission memorial site has been destroyed since my previous visit here, in 2012.

The mission was once next to the arroyo but was swallowed up by an enlarged arroyo by 2001. Mission San Juan Bautista de Ligüí was the third California mission, founded in 1705, and the first one to be abandoned, in 1721. The location was never good, other than lots of Indians living there.


Where the mission was originally, now in a sandy arroyo, by the road.

The best way to the beach now is to go right at the sign (0.4 mi. from highway) and then left following down the arroyo. The beach no longer has any palapas, as it did in the past. It is 0.5 mi. from the fork (0.9 from the highway).

Here's a panorama series going from right to left:











The right fork goes south 1.3 miles to the town of Ensenada Blanca. Sadly, the beach on their bay is now cut off and behind a security gate. You must be a guest of the nearby Danzante Resort to pass to see the water or beach. How sad. The village was here long before that resort.

Back to Loreto and later go to the bookstore. It was a full house and met many. The fellow I met in Mulegé was there, as was ncampion and even our famous Nomad, Mike Younghusband who (in 2010) walked over 1,000 miles down the peninsula with his burro, Don-Kay (following the lead made in 1997 by Graham Mackintosh and his burro, Misión). Here is that adventure: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=47853

Mike wants to join me tomorrow to San Javier and beyond to show me something really cool... Stay Tuned!

[Edited on 2-19-2017 by David K]

Quote: Originally posted by mickeykreg

I also met Serg at Perla. Thought I'd mention Pedro at San Rafael showed us your book and spoke fondly of it and you. Cool trip, will be watching for updates.

DAY 6-A: Sat. Feb. 4, 2017 Loreto to San Javier

Mike Younghusband meets me at the Pemex station, right across the street from my hotel entrance at 8 am. After topping my tank, I follow Mike as we head west, into the Sierra Giganta mountains.

If you get a chance to read Padre Piccolo's diaries of how he founded Mission San Javier, in 1699, it gives a connection to what it was like before bulldozers and dynamite!

I first traveled to San Javier in July 1973 on the original auto road blasted through in the 1950s and again in 1976. Only a mule or burro could bring supplies from Loreto before then, traveling on the first leg of El Camino Real, the Jesuit mission road connecting the missions that would be built throughout this land that many still thought was an island.

Now, a modern highway has been built up the mountain. In 2009, it was completed about half the distance, when I was last up this way. Now, flash floods try to take it out, but crews are on top of things and are improving damaged areas.












Km. 18 Rancho Las Parras, on the left, has a nice chapel across the highway.



Km. 24.5 is Rancho Nuevo, on the left. Here, Mike introduces me to "Bule" who arranges for anyone to go on a mule ride adventure.

Km. 25.5 is Rancho Viejo, on the right. This was the first location of Mission San Francisco Javier de Biaundo from May 11, 1699 to 1710, when Padre Juan de Ugarte moved it 5 miles south.

Km. 27.5 Unsigned junction with road to San José Comondú, 26 miles.

Km. 34 SAN JAVIER





Mike shows me the trail to the back side of the mission and we follow the water canal and see the old old olive tree.















We have quesadillas at the little restaurant on the west side of the street near the mission and then head north 4 miles to the Comondú junction, and I say goodbye to pavement for the next many hours!

To Be Continued!

DAY 6-B The Indian Camp

The road between San Javier and Comondú is not bad for a few miles, but do you see that grade ahead? That is pretty rough and coming down the other side to El Horno is even rougher. I used 4WD about halfway up that grade. To help going down the other side, I used low range for improved gear-brake-assist. From El Horno to Comondú, the road was good again. See road log, below.

Mike wanted to show me something he and Wilderone discovered while looking for petroglyphs during their mule trip through the area.

We parked and went hiking along an abandoned road.



Mike found the spot, it was a large flat area, above the arroyo, where a whole village may have been, based on the number of metates (grinding stones and bowls)... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metate













VERY COOL! Baja is the best at taking us back in time!!

Later, we took a walk to this stream before Mike returned to Loreto and I continued on to Comondú.

DAY 6-C To Comondú

It is about 26 miles from the San Javier highway to San José Comondú and my drive time was about 2 hours. The slow, 4WD section, was the steep up and down grades between Palo Chino and El Horno. Shown on the 2010 AAA map below:


The Loreto-San Javier and San Miguel Comondú-Ejido Francisco Villa roads are now paved.


Palo Chino is an abandoned ranch now.


The road improves as you near El Horno. An active ranch is set up next to the giant kiln-oven built in the 1700s to make mortar from limestone to build the mission church at Comondú, the largest church in all California!








The road begins to drop off the volcanic mesa into the oasis of San José Comondú.




Waterworks are seen around most mission locations and some are used to this day, 200-300 years after they were built.


An attractive cobblestone street is a nice surprise in this little town.


The mission today, but was originally a side chapel to a much larger church that was torn down in 1936.

The mission, San José de Comondú was founded in 1708, 22 miles to the north and moved here in 1736. The 1708 location became known as Comondú Viejo and is less than a mile south of Rancho San Juan (shown on the AAA map, above).











Historic photos of the large church from 1906:





From 1926:



The chapel in 1955 (below) and below in one I took on the other side in 2017:





The cobblestone street beyond the mission returns to dirt, the road northwest to San Isidro and La Purísima is passed 0.4 mile from the mission, and the more populated and active town of San Miguel Comondú is reached 1.8 miles beyond the road junction.





San Miguel Comondú began over 200 years ago as the visita of San Miguel, attached to Mission San Javier. It was so productive, often producing more food than other missions on the peninsula. Jesuits trained here before going on to work at missions, elsewhere. In 1736, when the Comondú mission moved so close, San Miguel was transferred to it from San Javier.

Today, San Miguel (with Comondú attached to its name) is the larger and more active of the two towns. A small hotel is located here...



The Hacienda Don Mario has rooms for 800 pesos (=$40) with a kitchen and 600 (=$30) without. A restaurant and museum are also here. www.haciendadonmario.com and jackylapaz@hotmail.com are on their card with the phone number 01-613-131-1494.

A paved road goes south from here to join Highway 1 at Ciudad Insurgentes. I turn around and go back to San José Comondú to catch the road to La Purísima. 1.8 miles from the hotel.



To Be Continued!




[Edited on 4-8-2018 by David K]

Quote: Originally posted by mickeykreg

Wonderful! Very excited to scope out the Sierra Giganta and mission area on the trip back north in a couple weeks.

DAY 6-D (Comondú to La Purísima) Sat. Feb. 4, 2017

Beginning log at the road between the two Comondús: San José and San Miguel, 0.4 mile from the mission or 1.8 miles from the hotel.

The road begins as a narrow lane crossing from the south to the north side of the canyon floor, then begins the climb up and out of the canyon. It is steep, but not 4WD stuff. The road is rough for a couple miles as it leaves the Comondú region.

I didn't note the mileage, but at the top of the first climb up, near the cemetery, the original road from Tijuana to La Paz (and now serves as a ranch road) joins in from the right. The north end of this section, near where it meets the road from Bahía Concepción, looks very unused... perhaps the floods of recent years have erased it somewhere?

The road north to San Isidro and La Purísima become quite good and the second half is even fast. It is just over 18 miles to where it enters the La Purísima valley and the road to Hwy. 1, just south of Bahía Concepción joins in from the right (no signs). It takes me less than an hour to drive from Comondú to here. It is 4.7 miles from the junction to La Purísima (market, restaurant, and motel).

Now heading west, the road soon becomes paved (in 2.3 miles) as one enters the town of San Isidro. I see a sign advertising gasoline. Continuing west on the paved road the majesty of El Pilón, the towering butte in the middle of the valley, makes one want to take photos!

As I enter La Purísima, I see a market on the left (ice for sale) and on the right is the Restaurant Otho with a bunch of off road vehicles parked... and Willy Airstream's race buggy. I park and go introduce myself to Richard (Willy Airstream). He was surprised, thinking I was older (or look older on my Nomad pics, lol)! I was surprised too, that he was only this far in his run today (4:40pm) as he was going to Comondú... and still did!

I saw that the little motel Posada del Angel was next door to the restaurant and both businesses were run by a couple of men. The motel I had heard was nice by Roy (The squarecircle) and TW (Tom). No wi-fi, but the market has it if needed.

I first drove around the block to see the mission site, it is a block north of the restaurant and a block back east. There is a sign pointing to it from the paved entrance road to town, the cross street before the market and restaurant.

The mission, founded in 1720, fell into ruin after 106 years in operation but appears to have still had a roof and was used by locals, in a 1906 photograph by Arthur North (Camp and Camino in Lower California author). In the 1950s, Howard Gulick (Lower California Guidebook author) shows photos of just a small portion of wall remaining and the crypts next to the mission ruins. Today, just two crypts remain and are all that is left of the once prosperous mission. Next door (west of crypts) is a private home... built on top of where the mission church was and fenced/ walled closed.

I check out the little motel, very basic, but clean, has hot water, and satellite TV with some 500 channels (a few in English including Fox News and CNN... great both real and fake news to watch)!It is the day before the Superbowl so that is all I am hearing about.

After cleaning up I go next door to have a delicious fish dinner. I also bought three bags of ice from the market to keep my OJ, milk, string cheese, and water bottles cold.

The room was 250 pesos (=$12.50) and the dinner (with a beer) was 125 pesos (=$6.25) + 75 peso tip (as he was closing but made my dinner anyway). I think Willy Airstream's group an hour earlier had worn him out. He also went to the store to buy my beer and some supplies to make my meal! Otho rocks!

I slept well, and was glad to have the room, it was cold! A family arrived and they were given the room right next door... so I had some kid noise issues, but that didn't last. The parking is inside the courtyard and the gate was closed when I left in the morning.

End of Day 6... 4 more to go!

PHOTOS:


Looking back to San José Comondú from the road heading northwest to La Purísima.


The 18-mile road between the two mission valleys is pretty good now!


Mission aqueduct along the road near San Isidro.






El Pilón


I know how popular seeing my Tacoma in Baja is to you all, LOL!




That's all there is of the mission! Following are some historic photos:


1906


Date: circa 1920?


1926


1949


1956


1956


2001

Some more around the tombs in 2017:






The shade structure is along the street next to the mission site.

More of La Purísima town:





The motel Posada del Angel:







Buenas noches y hasta la mañana!


[Edited on 2-20-2017 by David K]

Nice. Keep em coming.

DAY 7 Sunday Feb. 5, 2017

I get an early start from La Purísima, on the road before 8. The gate for the motel courtyard parking was closed, so nice security measure there.

0.0 Comondú road junction, 4.6 miles east from La Purísima (Restaurant Otho)
1.1 Top of switchback grade out of the valley.
6.2 Sign: Los Narranjos
16.8 Ranch and a Km. 31 post
21.0 Road south (was the original road to La Paz before the 1970s) goes to Rancho San Juan and the hike to Comondú Viejo, the original mission location from 1708 to 1736. See below...
32.0 Highway One (at Km. 59+)


Morning at La Purísima Valley.




View from partway up the grade.








This road has not seen maintenance since the bad floods of the past couple of years. 4WD may not be needed, but only trucks and SUVs should use this road. It took me 3 hours driving to go the 37 miles. The final 10 mies are very good, near Hwy. 1.








Bahía Concepción was a welcoming sight!


I went back to La Perla, but this time Serg had two other Canadian camper couples as neighbors. So, I made it four campers and the only American.







Good Night Amigos from La Perla!


Side trip to San Juan/ Comondú Viejo:

0.0 La Purísima Road (11 miles from Hwy. 1/ 26 miles from La Purísima)
0.9 Ranch on right.
1.3 Cattle Guard
2.5 Closed Gate, for cattle control, close behind you.
3.0 Rancho San Cristobal road to right.
4.1 Cattle Guard
4.3 Fork. Go left. Right shows on AAA map to San José Comondú.
Road crosses riverbed and is a bit tough to the ranch.


Looking back at where I just crossed the riverbed, near Rancho San Juan.

6.5 Rancho San Juan, an active goat ranch. You may get some stares as this really is the end of the road, being that it is totally obliterated where it once recrossed the riverbed ahead. Continue ahead, passing baby goat pen.
7.1 Park on the right. Ahead the road ends and there is no easy turnaround. Begin Hike Here. The mission site is just 3/4 mile away. You must cross the riverbed twice. GPS almost mandatory to find the ruins, as they are so heavily overgrown upon.

Photos from the Comondú Viejo sidetrip:


Nearing San Juan.


Just after the road vanishes at the riverbed's edge, I first tried to go up the riverbed. That didn't work out well. I finally found the old road on the opposite side. Where it again comes to the riverbed, I lost the road on the other side... so I began to bushwack and found mission corral walls!









There were so many... but I was seeking the small building that was the padre's quarters. It was near the church, which was made of adobe, and has vanished.






Eureka! Lat: N 26°16.4535' Lon: W 111°43.1372'


Inside floor area.





It was very hard to get good photos as the brush was so thick. I even crawled on my hands and knees to get this close, getting a cholla spine in my knee and back!

This sort of thing has to be big to you to go through this. To me, to see something that dates back to 1708-1736, in the center of Baja, has got to be appreciated before it vanishes.


Popping out from the mission site, I came to the old road. These rock piles were there... A good marker. Go east from here and slightly north to see the ruins.

I walked north on the old road, it vanishes by the riverbed... go across to the west side and walk it north to the crossing near my truck parking spot.




This was the original dirt road to La Paz, my parents and I drove on, in 1966.


Past photos at Comondú Viejo from Jack Swords, about 16 years ago:









From Howard Gulick, 1956:



Baja is a time machine!




[Edited on 2-21-2017 by David K]

Thanks for the ride ... nice trip

Quote: Originally posted by wessongroup

Thanks for the ride ... nice trip

Quote: Originally posted by 4x4abc

OK, found the Gulick map old road went through El Rosarito that opens the question: when was the road through Cadeje to Las Bebelamas used?

The shortcut from (near) Cadeje south was reported to my dad in 1966 by Howard Gulick himself. The shortcut later appeared in Howard's 1967 Fourth Edition as an update note, on page 12 for Page 152 in the guide.
We used that shortcut in 1966.



Blue arrows show shortcut.

[Edited on 2-21-2017 by David K]

DAY 8: Mon. Feb. 6, 2017 La Perla to San Borja

Said my goodbyes to the three Canadian camping families, packed up the camping gear (mainly the air mattress and tent), and left at 9:30.


El Burro


Cocos

Got gas at the south Mulegé Pemex. What should have been about 12 gallons to fill somehow read 14 gallons (converted from liters)! So, I paid over $6 extra... maybe with the added cash, the owner can get his pumps recalibrated??? LOL!!!


Coming into Santa Rosalia with the black sand beach and old harbor.





Had lunch in San Ignacio at the taco stand across from the Pemex station. Last September, the Baja Extreme tour group stopped here and we had some great quesatacos, so I had two of those and I was full! Left at 12:18pm.

The dreaded San Ignacio military inspection was next, and sure enough, they had only one lane open and were making everyone ahead of me get out (apparently Mexicans only today) as when I finally got to the soldier, it was just some questions. None of that picking something off my floor mat and lighting it with a cigarette lighter to claim it was marijuana (as had happened in July 2015 here). [I made sure my floor mat was shaken out when I left camp]

The Vizcaíno Desert was brilliant with flowers!





The state border, and a return to Pacific Standard Time... I get my lost hour back! 2:07pm becomes 1:07pm.







You know technically, the Pemex station at the Eagle Monument is in the northern state of Baja California. Yet, it (we are told) gets fuel from La Paz depot, which means no Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel, yet. The only station in Baja California state to not have ULSD. I suppose the logistics being the other Pemex stations are just 2-4 miles away in Guerrero Negro so the same fuel truck takes care of them all.

I am gasoline powered and using 87 octane Magna works great in my 4.0 liter V-6 Tacoma. I fill up at Jesus María (Km. 95+), which is about 20 miles north of the border/ Eagle Monument. 1:26pm

The military checkpoint at El Tomatal junction is at Km. 69, 1:58pm.

As one enters Nuevo Rosarito (Nuevo seems to have been added to the original name so as to not get this piece of heaven confused with Rosarito Beach, near Tijuana? Oh, I like this one better!) There is a sign pointing out the way to Mission San Borja...



It is 22 miles to the mission through beautiful Baja desert country. This road is rougher than the north road and I wouldn't suggest large campers or motorhomes think of using it. Again, a case where the weather has done a number on it the past couple of years. Some trees and bushes are growing into the roadway, too.





I arrive at San Borja to find I am the only outsider there to stay in José's great palapas... Where are all the Canadians?



I arrive at 3:25pm and after visiting with José and his brother (who I followed in from Rosarito part way, then he followed me). With his brother's help, they hope to continue to expand their guest services, maybe even a restaurant with satellite TV!


Camping is 150 pesos (=$7.50) and includes flush toilets (2) and showers (5). José will light a fire under the water heater if you want a hot water shower.



The mission here (founded in 1762) is the furthest north stone church on the peninsula, replacing the adobe churches built by the Franciscans and Jesuits before them. The stone church construction lasted to 1801. The spiral stairway to the roof never got a bell tower, as planned. The Indian die-off from a high of 1,700 here (and more living at various visitas) to just 400 neophytes, spelled an end to the vigorous dreams of a Spanish colony here. By 1816, no more reports came from San Borja as the last resident priest left.



I take a quiet walk around the mission complex, visiting the graveyard and the cool water spring to the east. A warm water sulfur spring is in the orchard, south of the palapas. That water cools and the sulfur odor vanishes (so the books say), so all can drink from it when the other spring dries up in the summer.




















That steel awning was constructed 17 years ago to protect the adobe ruins, behind the stone church.




Some of the ruins not covered have a plaster coating to preserve them.








The cool water spring.




Some of the village that was once here at San Borja.


View west back to the mission. This was a nice walk after so many miles driving!


Future restaurant???







I have a nice fire, make dinner, and sleep well!

End of Day 8.
Tomorrow, Montevideo and Bahía de los Angeles!










[Edited on 2-21-2017 by David K]

DAY 9: Tue. Feb. 7, 2017 San Borja to Montevideo & L.A. Bay

I am packed up and leave the mission palapas at 8:43 am. The road is bumpy and slow-ish for about 11 miles and then is quite good and even fast for the next 11 miles. It is by far the better of the two roads to San Borja, in my opinion, but the road from Rosarito allows a drive through option to not repeat the same road.

There are some of the finest Baja desert gardens you will see, on this road and the side trip to Montevideo. Enjoy the photos! Go there, if you can!

ROAD LOG:
0.0 San Borja
0.8 Junction: Left to Rosarito, ahead to L.A. Bay.
17.6 Fork, left via Agua de Higuera.
18.2 Agua de Higuera (ranch, sulfur water spring)
18.5 Junction with road from 17.6.
20.0 Road right to Montevideo (4WD only), 5.8 miles. Major rock art site.
22.0 L.A. Bay Highway Km. 45. L.A. Bay is 13 miles to the right.




Sign at 0.8 mi.

















SIDE TRIP TO MONTEVIDEO:



All the paintings I photographed are within a hundred feet of the road. Many more can be seen by doing a little more walking and some climbing.


































Boojum Tree (Cirio)


Painted cliff in relation to the road. This is a superior location for older folks or handicapped people to see the magnificent art without hiking or mule riding... Just a 4WD vehicle.


Driving back out to the San Borja road.

I turn right on the pavement and go to Bahía de los Angeles.







This view never gets old!
I get gasoline when I reach town, go to the museum to let Carolina know I made it (she asked me a few days ago if I would drive in to give a PowerPoint lecture about the missions and my book that afternoon, and deliver her more books to sell), get a room at Villa Bahía, and visit with Mary Ann Humfreville.

Hotel Villa Bahía:





The room at the museum filled up (I was surprised at how many), I gave my show with the slides and answered questions. I think Carolina sold all the books after the show?

Afterward many of us, including Mary Ann, 24baja, and bkbend, went to Alejandrina's restaurant for dinner... It was great and dinner, with beers, was only 150 pesos (=US$7.50).

I had wi-fi at the Villa Bahía to keep me on Nomad or reading emails while the generator was running and dogs barking outside my window. I want to thank Roger for his hospitality. The rooms are nice, with a view and a kitchen. Eventually, the generator was stopped and it got quiet. Slept well.

End of Day 9... 1 more to go!


[Edited on 2-22-2017 by David K]

Quote: Originally posted by David K

ROAD LOG: 20.0 Major rock art site.

Quote: Originally posted by joerover

I sort of get the idea where the rock art is. Do you have any GPS info or something that would help a stumblebunny like me find it.

I am planning another bicycle trip. This looks like a good place to stop along the way. Because I am on a bicycle I can not carry as much water as people in pickups can. This is why I asked for GPS Coordinates. Is there a road or perhaps the river bed is a road? Depart San Borja and turn right 2 miles before Bahia De Los Angles road? My time in the area will be limited by water. You mentioned sulfer at the spring? If there is reliable water in the area I would likely hike around for 3 or so days

[/URL]








[Edited on 2-21-2017 by David K][/rquote]

[Edited on 2-22-2017 by joerover]

[Edited on 2-22-2017 by joerover]

I really think you need a support truck. Especially when you are this unfamiliar with the area. I have one more day to finish the trip report.

So rather than the reposting the photos and the maps, maybe start a new thread on your bike riding questions. It is interesting, for sure.

You don't need a GPS because the road goes to it, but it has been posted on Nomad before. Here is what I recorded a couple weeks ago: Lat: N 28°54.7495'
Lon: W 113°43.2674'

I provided the road log with the mileages... here it is again:
ROAD LOG:
0.0 San Borja
0.8 Junction: Left to Rosarito, ahead to L.A. Bay.
17.6 Fork, left via Agua de Higuera.
18.2 Agua de Higuera (ranch, sulfur water spring)
18.5 Junction with road from 17.6.
20.0 Road right to Montevideo (4WD only), 5.8 miles. Major rock art site.
22.0 L.A. Bay Highway Km. 45. L.A. Bay is 13 miles to the right.

The spring at the ranch is stinky sulfur water and ugly looking too. They probably have a good well there? The road to the rock art is deep sand. You must have a fat tire bike or will need to walk it the 12 miles round trip. NO water in there at the site.

Feel free to email or u2u me questions, as well!

My inReach track (note Montevideo and SanBorja):



Google Earth of Montevideo, the San Borja road and the L.A. Bay highway are pinned.




[Edited on 6-1-2018 by David K]

Quote: Originally posted by Cliffy

I made one trip many years ago to BOLA just as the entire desert from the turn inland all the way to BOLA was in full bloom. Pinks, blues, whites, orange, a regular kaleidoscope of colors at every turn for many miles. Unfortunately I've never caught that bloom again. It's something I have never forgotten.

Quote: Originally posted by David K

: Lat: N 28°54.7495' Lon: W 113°43.2674' The spring at the ranch is stinky sulfur water and ugly looking too. They probably have a good well there? The road to the rock art is deep sand. You must have a fat tire bike or will need to walk it the 12 miles round trip. NO water in there at the site. [Edited on 2-22-2017 by David K]

Quote: Originally posted by BajaTed

David, Gotta ask; how did the rock drawings get their various colors? The shapes of course are another story

I think it was different mineral rocks and lava, ground with water... I remember Damien (character in 'Bajo California: The Limit of Time') showing that process to make red and black.

I will check Harry Crosby's book and see if there are other answers.

DAY 10: Wednesday Feb. 8, 2017: L.A. Bay to Home + GOLD MINE

I got an even earlier start for the 475 mile drive home, 7:20 am.
The kilometer markers on the L.A. Bay highway, at various points, are noted in my log book.

Km. 66 Sailboat monument/ traffic circle/ La Gringa road, L.A. Bay.
Km. 65 Pemex gas station
Km. 45 San Borja Road
Km. 38.5 Road north to Bahía Guadalupe and Los Candeleros
Km. 29 (approx. location) El Camino Real crossing.
Km. 18 Road north to Luz de Mexico gold mine (2.9 to 3.5 mi.)
Km. 15.5 Road north through fence meets original L.A. Bay road, in Arroyo Yubay.
Km. 11.5+ Road north to El Desengaño gold mine and Tinaja de Yubay access.
Km. 0 Hwy. 1, (former) Parador Punta Prieta.

Baja Nomad member 'Mothership' but known to us as 'Mando' suggested I would enjoy seeing Luz de Mexico. It is deserted, wide-open, and you might even find some "color" if you poke around.

The road (Km. 18) has white posts on each side with private property written on it. Most of Baja is private property. If they don't want visitors, they have a locked gate or a keep out/ do not enter sign.

Nobody was there, just these guardians along the road near the mine:



There are several shafts, following the gold vein, along a kilometer going west from the first mine shaft. The photos here are all looking down... not sideways. BE CAREFUL... don't bring dogs! I could NOT see the bottom of most of these mines!!!















That was awesome!!!

There is a photo in Walt Petersen's Baja Adventure book taken here... I will post it later.

It is 30 miles on Highway One to the Highway Five junction, at Laguna Chapala.

A few miles before Chapala is a viewpoint looking back south to where I just was, on the Baja Highway!...



Life is a Highway... for me, the Baja Highway is the best, to get us to those interesting places sooner than it took our fathers and grandfathers who had to drive hundreds of miles on dirt roads before 1973 when Highway One was completed.

I got to Chapala at 10:15 am and the 23 dirt miles north towards Gonzaga was easy.
Coco's Corner at 10:44 am.
On the pavement at 11:09 am.
Gonzaga Bay Pemex at 11:22 am.

At the viewpoint parking by La Costilla (Km. 84) I met Lenin Sartillo who rode his bike north from La Paz and was headed for Mexicali. We chatted, and when missions came up, he said he was looking at a book on missions, several days ago. I showed him one of my books, and he said THAT is the book! He was at Pancho's (Bahía San Rafael) and Pancho showed him my book there. Small world... I gave him an autographed copy and wished him well on his trip back home to Mexico City. He has a Facebook page and he made it home.

San Felipe was at 1:47 pm.
I took the toll road to Tecate from south of Mexicali. The three tolls were 73 pesos, 23 pesos, and 67 pesos.
At the Tecate Border at 5:15 pm. NO LINE. Drove right up to the inspector's booth. Asked me a few typical questions and what was in my ice chest. That was it, 10 awesome days in Baja, 1,946 miles, and 0 problems but endless Baja magic and fun!

You should go!
VIVA BAJA

I will be heading back in a week or so, to research another section of Baja and compile my collected data so all of you will have detailed road and location data for 2017.

Baja Adventures can be real, not just in books!

From the 1987 Baja Adventure Book by Walt Peterson:



2017 (different ladder or different shaft):

Quote: Originally posted by Cliffy

Let us not forget- "Eating Your Way Through Baja" Great book for its time. I've got a copy buried somewhere.

As long as there are Nomads like you and me, who can bridge the generation between dirt and paved roads, we won't forget!

a great trip report David, wife and I are headed out to recreate the loop ourselves

Any idea what the deal is with that bookstore in Loreto? I have passed it dozens of times and never actually seen it open?