TRIP #6 (AUG 2017) Southernmost Baja Research Trip! North road to San Juanico and on to Cabo.

EDIT: Report & Photos sized for message boards and no watermarks are here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2017-baja-expedition-6-s...

2,946 Miles (Home to Home)

DAYS:

1) San Diego North County to Shell Island (south of San Felipe), 298 miles (via Mexicali).
2) Shell Island to El Datil south, 396 miles.
3) El Datil south to Lopez Mateos, 229 miles (via La Purisima & Comondu).
4) Lopez Mateos to Dolores Overview, 201 miles (via Pto. San Carlos, Mission San Luis Gonzaga, La Pasion).
5) Dolores Overview to La Paz, 181 miles (via La Soledad, San Evaristo, tire slow leak).
6) La Paz (Tire repair, a rest day otherwise)
7) La Paz to Todos Santos, Los Cabos, La Ribera, and back, 272 miles.
8) La Paz to Tecolote, La Ventana/El Sargento, Punta Arena, San Antonio, and back, 177 miles.
9) La Paz to Punta Conejo and La Aguja, 88 miles (Days 9 & 10).
10) La Aguja to Punta Marquez, Conquista, and back.
11) La Aguja to Constitucion (dead battery), Agua Verde Overview, Bahia Concepcion, 285 miles.
12) Bahia Concepcion to Mission Guadalupe to Punta Chivato, 135 miles.
13) Punta Chivato to Shell Island, 392 miles.
14) Shell Island (south of San Felipe) to North San Diego County, via Tecate, 292 miles.




DAY 1 (Tue Aug 1, 2017)

On the road at 8:05 am, heading east for Calexico/Mexicali via I-8.

Exchanged dollars for pesos at 17.35 pesos: 1 dollar. Making 100 pesos = US$5.76

The border crossing was simple, I got the green light [red light means you get inspected, it's either random or someone decides?]. As I already had a validated FMM (Tourist Card), no need to stop at the INM (immigration) office, once inside Mexico.

At 12:20, I stopped to have lunch just south of Mexicali, at the restaurant 'Yocojihua' (Km. 12) having been reading good reviews for it on Baja Nomad. I had 4 tacos dorados (2 beef & 2 chicken) with rice & beans and a Jamaica drink for 115 pesos + tip (25 pesos). It was a very good lunch and start for Baja food!

Gasoline at Km. 184 'ejido' Pemex, near San Felipe, was 15.86 pesos per liter (=US$3.46/ gallon) for Magna (87 octane). The Oxxo market had a deal for Tecate Light beer, 9 cans for 101 pesos (65 cents each). That deal improved the further south I got (10 cans for 95 pesos or 55 cents each). The time was 2:17 pm.

Cans to avoid broken glass in the ice chest. However, later on... all the rough dirt roads did a number on 2 cans, causing them to leak! If I am not on the road for a day, then an ice cold bottle or two of Pacifico is perhaps my favorite drink in Baja?

I arrive on Shell Island (access is 22 miles south of San Felipe) and go about a mile up the beach to camp. The truck not being as heavily loaded as other times was able to do the drive on the deep sand without deflating (thus saving me the work of putting air back in, in the morning).

It is 4:30 pm and my simple camp is set up... a folding chair, a cot, and the stars above. Only a sheet is needed as the summer nights are warm.

DAY 1 PHOTOS:


Km. 12, south of Mexicali


On Shell Island, Km. 26, south of San Felipe, looking north...


Looking south...


Shell Island as seen from the Sea of Cortez!

I enjoy a couple swims before the sun sets behind the Sierra San Pedro Mártir, just south of Diablo Mountain.
Total miles today: 298






[Edited on 6-5-2021 by David K]

DAY 2 (Wed. AUG 2)

Being in a place where the sun rises over the sea instead of a mountain range means it gets light sooner. I was actually packed and left camp at 6:12 am!

I arrived at Bahía San Luis Gonzaga Pemex Station (Km. 147+) at 8:00 am. I topped the tank (108 miles from the last topping) so I could drive worry free to San Ignacio. Magna here was 16.36/liter ($3.57/gallon) and pumped in 25 liters (6.6 gallons). For those who are wondering, dollars are accepted everywhere in Baja. It is often easier to have pesos for trip expenses and takes away any confusion on money. Mostly that you will get pesos in change if you don't have the exact amount in U.S. money. This remote Pemex was offering a good rate of 17.00 pesos per dollar. Further south, that rate dropped to as low as 16.00 per dollar.

The end of pavement was unchanged from 2014, 12.5 miles south of the Gonzaga Pemex, just beyond the Km. 167 post.

A side note: There was a Km. 170 sign here for a couple years, even though it was 1 km. south of the Km. 166 post. THAT has been fixed!

I pass Coco's Corner, Mile 22.6 from Gonzaga/ 10.1 from the end of pavement, at 8:50 am. I reach Highway 1 (Laguna Chapala) at 9:28 am. Mile 35.7 from Gonzaga, (23.2 unpaved miles).

At the Eagle Monument, near Guerrero Negro, is the state border between Baja California and Baja California Sur. The only 'big' deal here is being charged 20 pesos to drive over an insect spray strip and losing an hour on the clock going into Mountain Time Zone. 11:30 am becomes 12:30 pm!

I arrive in San Ignacio at 2:09 pm Mountain Time. Pemex station to fill the gas tank for the long drive ahead...
16.27 pesos/liter here. My highway mileage is about 17 mpg... providing the gasoline pump amounts are correct... and sadly, many stations are known to not be. That is just the nature of things... Baja is still so worth it.

Across from the Pemex station are some small eating places. The burrito/taco one is really good. I tried the sea food one today, Mariscos San Ignacio. I had some great shrimp tacos and ceviche of mixed seafood. Totally great.

It is 1.6 paved miles from the highway into the town plaza at the giant, stone mission (founded in 1728). This mission of San Ignacio appears on the cover of my book...

I will continue this day's report soon...

DAY 2 PHOTOS Part 1:


Sunrise from Shell Island


Rancho Grande Market (across from the Gonzaga Pemex) has a new sign.


New highway construction south of Gonzaga Bay.


Hotel sign at Eagle Monument.


Eagle Monument on the state border, erected in 1973, 140 feet high, harder to see with trees military base buildings, and giant flag distraction.


Oasis of San Ignacio, in the center of Baja.




San Ignacio stone mission on my book's cover.

Much more of Day 2 to come!

[Edited on 8-16-2017 by David K]

DAY 2, Part 2: San Ignacio South

Gas tank full, my stomach full, on south I go!
Setting the odometer to zero in front of the mission, I head for Laguna San Ignacio, a popular whale watching location, in season. Closed-up to tourism off season.

The road has been paved to about 5 miles from the lagoon shoreline.

Here is a road log (with times), there may be slight differences in map and log mileages, maybe not [see revised log in bold text, below]:
0.0 Mission San Ignacio/Plaza (1.6 mi from Hwy. 1) 3:00 pm
0.6 Km. 0 Post
0.7 New pavement begins
18.8 Road left to El Patrocinio (Km. 29.5)
30.1 End Pavement (Km. 47.5+) 4:00 pm
34.7 Fork, to bypass lagoon left (signed San José de Garcia). Go right.
36.1 Pancho's whale camp road
36.2 Along lagoon shore
38.8 Fork, go right "Kuyima" sign (left to Camp Cortez 11 km)
40.2 Cross road. Right to Antonio's, ahead to Kuyima, go left.
40.9 La Laguna, village, cross through.
42.8 Join back with the graded road that branched at Mile 34.7
46.7 Fork, signed "Salina" (Salt Flat) to right. Bad washboard for a short distance. 5:02 pm
61.9 White empty building and tall poles with osprey nests on top. AAA map calls it a desalinization plant.
69.6 El Datil fishing village 6:15 pm

REVISED ROAD LOG

The mission and town plaza is 1.6 miles from Highway 1. Continue straight, passing in front of the mission church, passing the market and hotel La Huerta, the paved street curves left, passing the Hotel Posada. Pavement ends briefly.

Km. 0 This marker sign is 0.6 mi (1 km.) from the mission/plaza. Pavement begins in 500 feet.
Km. 9 Rancho El Batequi
Km. 12.5+ Rancho San Juaquín Km.
Km. 16.5 Road left, signed to San Vicente.
Km. 19.5 San Zacarias
Km. 29.5 Road left to El Patrocinio (35 kms.)
Km. 47.5+ End of Pavement (30.1 miles from the mission/plaza). The road ahead is an elevated roadbed, over the salt pan.

The following are mileages from the mission/plaza in San Ignacio:

34.7 Bypass road south, avoids whale camps and village. Signed San José de Garcia. Log goes on right branch, to the lagoon.
36.1 Pancho’s whale camp entrance, on right.
36.2 Lagoon shore.
38.8 Fork, keep right. Left goes into village.
40.2 Crossroad. Antonio’s Camp is to the right, Kuyima Camp is 0.4 mi ahead. Turn left (east) to continue south. Operations open during whale watching season. Typically, that is December-April.

40.9 La Laguna village, pass through to far side. Several optional roads come back together.
42.8 Join graded bypass road from Mile 34.7, above.
46.7/ 0.0 Major Fork. Small sign “Salina” here. The left branch is the high road via Rancho Cuarenta and the access to San José de Garcia. The low road returns to the high road after 39 miles. This road log uses the more popular low road, longer but smoother driving, if dry. Reset odometer to zero.

The washboard surface begins very bad, but soon improves. Deflating tires by ~30% improves the ride and traction off the pavement.

14.7 Abandoned building and many high poles now serving as osprey nests mark a former desalinization project. The road soon reaches the salt flats. It is advised to avoid any shortcuts across the flats and stay on the route that follows the desert’s edge.

22.2 El Dátil fishing village. Limited supplies.
32.0 Sand dunes near the south end of salt flats. The road begins to turn inland.
35.1 Rancho El Datilón. The road soon turns south and crosses an arroyo.
41.7 Junction with high road coming approx. 39 miles from the fork at Mile 0.0, above. Turn south for San Juanico and on to La Paz.
46.7 Rancho La Ballena at Arroyo San Raymundo. The mountain road from Mulegé came in here, but recent storms may have altered the route.
52.8 Cadeje an oasis village with an airstrip.
61.0 San Juanico town entrance. Motels, restaurants, supplies. Popularly known as Scorpion Bay by surfers. Paved road south to Las Barrancas and on to Ciudad Insurgentes and Highway 1 to La Paz or Loreto.




10 miles south of El Datil, are sand dunes to the west and the end of the salt flat driving. I make camp in the sand dunes at 6:48 pm.

REVISED MAPS:








The more direct, original dirt road between San Juanico and La Purísima is between the red pointers, along the paved roads. The north end has the blue truck symbol. The dirt road is approx. 20 miles long between the arrows. Another access is when the new highway reaches the edge of Estero San Gregorio, reducing the dirt drive to La Purísima to about 12 miles.



PHOTOS:


El Patrocino road jcn. Km. 29.5


Km. 31


Unpaved road, easy.


Lagoon shore


Salina Road Fork




Tall power poles converted to osprey nests at ex-daslinization plant.


El Datil boats


Sand Dunes


My ride, 2010 Tacoma Off Road 4x4




Camp Night 2.

Total miles traveled today: 396








[Edited on 12-30-2017 by David K]

DAY 3 (Thu. AUG 3)

The evening on the sand dunes was great. I could hear the sounds of the Pacific far in the distance. I saw only one vehicle heading north to El Datil on the Salina (salt flat) road before it got dark. I was about a half mile from the road and partially hidden by the dunes.

Thursday morning, I was packed up and on the road at 8:30. My body was telling me it was still on Pacific time, as it seemed like 7:30!

I passed a ranch, there was no sign with a name, but the map has El Datilón where it was. The road curves from east to south and crosses an arroyo just past the ranch. The map shows a road fork before the arroyo crossing, but it was not very noticeable. The road was graded and maybe obscured the fork.

The map shows another ranch called El Batequi de San Juan on the south side of the arroyo, but there was none. This map (Baja California Almanac) is the best there is of Baja dirt roads, but it does have a few errors, as most maps do.

Eventually, the road from El Datil joins the high road used to reach San José de Garcia from San Juanico and was the road that forked at Mile 46.7.

The ranch of La Ballena is passed and the village of Cadeje is driven through. It has an abandoned army camp and an airstrip (with tires across the runway to prevent it from being used, just any old time).

I came to a paved highway at the entrance to the town of San Juanico, also known as "Scorpion Bay" by surfers.

Let me add some road log details to continue from yesterday:

0.0 El Datil
10.0 (approx.) Leave salt flats and head inland, eastward.
13.3 Pass by a ranch (on left) and soon head across arroyo to the south.
20.1 T Junction with the high road. Turn right (south) for San Juanico.
25.6 Rancho La Ballena. The cross-mountain road from Mulegé had come in here, but a different route to Cadeje may be the best way after recent hurricane damage?
31.9 Cadeje, a small village.
40.4 San Juanico, "Scorpion Bay". Large town.
Paved road goes south to Las Barrancas, 30.2 miles.

I drive around San Juanico once and noted a couple restaurants. While I did see signs for a motel, I was not seeing much of anyplace that looked like one on my quick drive by. Maybe rooms in people's homes are rented? Like other surfer locations, maybe secrecy is strictly enforced to keep away newbies? LOL The surfers on the Internet have a strict code of silence! So as to not create "waves" I don't spend a lot of time at surfer locations and move on.

The new-ish paved road to San Juanico from the south was in good condition to Las Barrancas. The 4.5-mile paved road from Las Barrancas to the Insurgentes-La Purísima road had some pot holes to dodge.

Las Barrancas was the location of a German/Mexican solar energy facility many years ago, long abandoned.

PHOTOS:


T Junction (El Datil road meets the High road)


Arroyo San Raymundo at Rancho La Ballena (just ahead on right).


Nearing Cadeje


Oasis at Cadeje


Three miles to San Juanico


Looking north from pavement at San Juanico.


Beach at San Juanico






30.2 miles south of San Juanico, at the entrance to Las Barrancas.






Looking west at road junction.

Coming up next: La Purísima, San Miguel Comondú, and López Mateos.

Quote: Originally posted by Tres Rios

Thanks for the trip report David K.... was wondering what kind of tire pressures you are running when driving in the sand and what king of air compressor you are using to re-inflate tires for our trip down the east coast Baja in December????

Quote: Originally posted by BajaTed

Awesome Pics and portrayal of Baja Dave, they make me sigh like a girl

Just wait... the good stuff is still coming!

DAY 3 continued...

It is 4.5 miles from Las Barrancas (the San Juanico highway junction) to the La Purísima/Insurgentes highway.

I drive north to La Purísima to cover that highway. I drove into La Purísima from Comondú and La Purísima out to Hwy. 1 near Bahía Concepción already this year (TRIP #2, Feb.). I wanted to cover the paved road into town, for the guide.

From the Las Barrancas road to the old, dirt San Juanico road, on the La Purísima highway, it is 12.5 miles. It is 4.2 miles more into La Purísima and to the restaurant Otho and motel Posada del Angel. The mission site is just a block beyond Otho and a block north.

I have lunch at Otho from 12:10-12:50 and head south on the highway. lunch was fish dinner plate and a Jamaica drink for 150 pesos, with tip.

16.7 miles back down the highway is the Las Barrancas road and 14.4 additional miles is Francisco Villa and the paved highway north to San Miguel Comondú. Like La Purísima, I previously went into Comondú from the north and east and wanted to cover the south, paved road, also.

It is 22.6 miles to the entrance of San Miguel Comondú, where the blacktop becomes cobblestone. 0.2 mi further is the street to the right, passing the boutique motel Don Mario and continues on to San José Comondú, where the mission was from 1736 to 1827. The mission was founded in 1708, but 22 miles to the north and now called Comondú Viejo (see my TRIP #2 report).

Just past the street corner, ahead if you don't turn right, on the left, was where gasoline from 20-liter containers can be purchased. The Baja Sur state government cracked down on independent gasoline sales, so no longer are signs posted where you can buy gas in towns without a Pemex station. You just need to ask! 20 liters was 380 pesos. Very fair if you consider how far it must be brought in from.

Back south I go to Francisco Villa and continue southward on the highway to Ciudad Insurgentes. There are no pot holes or not many on the La Purísima or Comondú highways, but from Francisco Villa south, there are some! In 3 miles, however, a brand new, very wide paved highway begins, and lasts for 19.5 miles! There are 4 miles of older highway, then again a wider highway starts.

Nearing Ciudad Insurgentes, I take the paved road west to López Mateos, a fishing town and whale watching center on Magdalena Bay. It is 20 miles to town. I drive around and go to the Hotel Refugio, recommended by 'Mula' on Baja Nomad forums, who has a home there. The hotel owner (Róman) was very nice and the room was air conditioned, very small, but comfortable at 350 pesos (=US$20.17). The WiFi only works in the dining room area, which was not serving food in the summer... because whales are not there then! I made a couple posts and checked email. I slept well... but the mosquitos got me when I was in the dining room area and outside.

End of Day 3.
229 miles traveled.

PHOTOS:


Highway nearing La Purísima


El Pilon, the famous landmark near La Purísima




Only a pair of tombs and a wall mark the once prosperous Spanish mission.






The mission in 1906 (photo by Arthur North)


The mission ruins in 1956 (photo from Howard Gulick)


The tombs in 1956.


I drive up to the cemetery and took this desert foreground photo of El Pilon.


The "El Camino Real" mission road as it comes to La Purísima from the south and east (Comondú, San Javier, and Loreto).


This is the paved road north into San Miguel Comondú from Francisco Villa.








New, wide highway north of Insurgentes.


López Mateos





Day 4, is a big one... stay tuned!

Thanks Dave. Love the trip report. Keep it coming.

DAY 4-a (FRI Aug. 4, 2017)

I am on the road at 7:43 am and heading away from López Mateos.

I don't want to say too much about López Mateos because I was not there very long and didn't have any Nomads to show me the highlights. My son lived there for a couple months in 2012 working for Mag Bay Outfitters (their son and my son were best friends from 4th grade on and we used to take him camping with us to Baja and the desert). It is off season, humid, mosquitos, and most restaurants were closed... again no whales or tourists in the summer. There is a huge building that looked like a museum for whale watchers out at the dock where they must get on boats to see the beasties up close. Closed now, naturally.

Back east to the Insurgentes-La Purísima highway where I turn south.
1.1 miles south is a Pemex station and I fill up. 15.71 pesos/liter. Someone asked about the cost of diesel, and there, it was 16.48/liter.

The junction with Mexico Highway 1 is 0.3 mi south of the Pemex (1.4 mi south of the López Mateos highway). I continue south on the now, 4-lane highway. Kilometer markers are not as consistent on some Baja Sur sections of highway and a lot of that is because of new highway widening and not getting around to replacing the markers. The corner of Hwy. 1 where the way to Loreto and to La Paz meet is Km. 0 going to Loreto and should be Km. 237 from La Paz (but I didn't see a marker until Km. 235 just over 1.2 miles south).

The Puerto San Carlos highway (Mexico #22) was 15.9 miles south of Insurgentes, or about Km. 211.5. In fact, the Km. 212 marker was 0.4 mi north... so the estimating of missing kilometer marker locations works.

I drive out the 35 miles (57 kilometers) to San Carlos and was quite pleased with the nice town appearance, the beach palapas just before town, and just a better feel for what was available there to serve visitors. I saw three hotels (motels): Mar Y Arena (at the entrance to town), Alcatraz, and the Brennon (with an Irish theme).

At a market in the middle of town, I bought three bags of ice for my chest (60 pesos) as my ice from home was finally in need of supplementing. I also knew it would be awhile before I was able to get more. I only needed the ice for milk (cereal), Costco chicken/mozzarella/artichoke brats, and to cool the beer and drinking water.

Back out to Ciudad Constitución I go and turn south on Mex 1. I top my gas tank as I am going off grid for a couple days. 19 liters (5 gallons) for the 94 miles since I filled at Insurgentes means I got 18.8 m.p.g. for the easy, paved driving.. and the station's pump was accurate! The station was at Km. 210.5, 1/2 mile south of the San Carlos junction, west side of the highway.

For many years, many have reported the local police being extra alert for tourists who do not stop fully at the many stop signs... even pulling some over who did stop fully. I have never had that experience in this town and usually don't even see any cops. Maybe because I travel in the hot summer? However, this day there were trucks with machine gun mounts and labeled as Municipal Police (not military) cruising up and down the main street. Didn't affect me at all, but it was pretty extreme to see.

The south end of town is at Km. 208, the 4 lane highway returns to two lanes, and an R.V. park and motel is at Km. 206.

At Km. 195 is the road east to Mission San Luis Gonzaga, and beyond. Finally, back into the dirt! I drop my tires to 25 psi to soften the ride on this washboard, graded road. The road is quite good and I am cruising at 50 mph until some cement vados (dips) pop up after many miles and have me hitting the brakes! The dips are at mile 8.0, 9.4, 9.6 and 10.2.

The only fork or turn in the road is at mile 12.3, and you go right. Ahead leads to a dam project (El Ihuagil).

Arrive at the 1737 founded mission (stone church built 1753-1758) at mile 22.3 from Hwy. 1. There is much interest in this mission that is based on the writings of one of the long-term resident Jesuits who was stationed here, Johann Jakob Baegert, S.J. from 1751 to 1768. His 1772 book, 'Observations in Lower California', (translated and re-published in 1952) are full of details of the life of the Native Californians and the geography of California (what is called Baja California today). The church is one of the few intact Jesuit California missions to survive to modern times.

Resting in the shade of the building next to the church were a man and woman on fat tire mountain bikes. It is Mike and Rebecca from Canada and they are riding the length of Baja, following the advice of this web page: https://bajadivide.com/ .

After I got home, three days ago, I got an email from Mike with a link to his blog page with photos, posted from La Paz. He mentions how we met... and how I bumped into them again, two days later... Here is their story: http://www.zerotocruising.com/kenny-chesney-visit and what Mike wrote about our meeting:

Our plan, whenever possible, is to find shade between noon and 3:30 (or later) and simply hide from the sun, and we took advantage of the walls of the building adjacent to the mision to do exactly that. As we sat enjoying our lunch, a lone gringo drove up in a pickup and began taking pics. We struck up a conversation with him and learned that David was not only a life-long fan of Baja California, but that he had written and published a book on the old missions of the region. And unlike us, he was actually working that day, researching material for his upcoming book, a new travel guide for Baja. After sharing contact details, we said farewell, and he continued on his way while we resumed hiding from the sun.

I walk over to the mission dam and small lake it creates, take photos all around and after spending about an hour there, leave at 1:24 pm.

My next goal is to see the mission site, typically called La Pasión. It was the final location (1741-1768) for the mission of Los Dolores, founded along the gulf coast in 1721. San Luis Gonzaga was a visita (satellite mission station) of Dolores before becoming a separate mission, with its own priest.

The missions are a link to our past, our culture, and some of the oldest structures in California (Upper or Lower). I strongly urge anyone with interest into seeing the past of California, Mexico, or Spain to see the missions or just go to their locations, even if the original mission building is gone or in ruins. While I would appreciate if you purchased my book www.oldmissions.com, at least enjoy the data and photos on my web page at Vivabaja.com devoted to the 27 missions of Baja: http://www.vivabaja.com/bajamissions/

PHOTOS:




Boat launch and palapas at bridge near San Carlos




Entrance to Puerto San Carlos
















Mission church as seen from the dam.



To be continued...

AAA Map

Edited to show road I was on (6.1 mile section) that continued beyond the 1.5 mile section of poor road on the AAA map. That spot = T junction for Rancho Merecuaco. The 'new section' goes 6.1 miles looping around La Tortuga hill, crossing Arroyo San Pedro/La Presa, and meeting the graded road. It was 5.7 miles east to the La Pasión junction. I subtracted 5.7 from the AAA's 11.5 giving 5.8 miles on the balance of the graded road going west.

[Edited on 8-19-2017 by David K]

Quote: Originally posted by tiotomasbcs

Was it hot in La Purisima, Comondu? Went up there once in July and retreated back down to the beaches near San Juanico for the much cooler camping. Has anyone ever stayed at the boutique Hotel in Comondu?? Shari had a fantastic travelogue from that area a few years ago...mission wines, David?! BackRoads Baja ( Higginbotham) still available? Curious where you visited in Todos Santos. Good info. Tomas

DAY 4-b (FRI. Afternoon)

From Mission San Luis Gonzaga, my next goal was La Pasión, the final location of Mission Los Dolores. It would be less obvious to find being that any walls have long ago fallen, and a goat ranch, La Capilla, was operating on the site.

The road headed south from San Luis Gonzaga and there are many forks and no signs to give a hint. I did have live tracking both on my inReach device and on my smartphone with the Earthmate app (pretty good Baja maps, considering).

There was a junction I had pre-marked, but instead of right (which was in the wrong direction but the better road to use, I think), I took a left going towards my goal. I did get there okay, but it went a little more north before returning to the watershed I was intending to follow to La Presa and La Pasión.

I will do a little road log and compare to satellite and maps, then try to show my route on maps... This is fun for me and if you don't go to unexpected places then you might not see unexpected and cool things!

Total (Partial) Miles
0.0 (0.0) Mission San Luis Gonzaga (1:24 pm)
5.3 (5.3) Curve right, ranch on left.
7.4 (2.1) Ranch house (El Plátano?), concrete creek crossing, oasis.
8.1 (0.7) Fork, main travel goes left.
8.9 (0.6) San José de la Palmita (?)
10.2 (1.3) Ranch (El Caporal ?), process building, road junction.
12.2 (2.0) Ranch
15.5 (3.3) T intersection. Rancho Merecuaco is 0.4 mi right (south). Go left.
19.4 (3.9) Weather Station, ranch houses.
20.0 (0.6) Big arroyo crossing (Arroyo San Pedro on AAA map, Arroyo La Presa on Baja Almanac).
21.6 (1.6) Major Graded Road (3:22 pm)
22.5 (0.9) Road right signed to El Chicural & Aguajito.
24.9 (2.4) Rancho Cantarana
26.8 (1.9) Rancho La Presa (closed to visitors)
27.3 (0.5) Junction. Ahead to El Solano & San Evaristo. Left to La Pasión, Santa María de la Toris, Los Burros. Turn left.
29.1 (1.8) Ranch on left and a road to the right crosses arroyo to the mission site. Turn right, cross arroyo. If ranch gate is closed, turn left just past and drive along the fence to get to the other side of the ranch house.
29.3 (0.2) Rancho La Capilla and Mission Los Dolores Chillá (La Pasión) ruins. The ranch owner, 'Modesto' tells me visitors are welcome!

PHOTOS:






I call this double hill, La Tortuga!




(note to my BajaNomad.com forum amigos: I am also sharing on TacomaWorld.com forums and they like to see Tacomas)


Rancho La Presa, a historic ranch and had advertised as a guest facility under the name "Mission Dolores". It was closed to outsiders today. Their Facebook page has been inactive for 2 years and their website is no longer on line.


Crossing the arroyo to the mission site, a large white bird in the creek.


The Dolores mission was moved here in 1741. However, the location had been the visita of La Pasión before then.


There was much more at the site than I had expected or seen in Jack Swords' or Baja Okie's photos (or remember seeing)!




Primary site, the round-topped hill in the background can be seen in a 1950 photo when a wall was still standing here.




Photo from Marquis McDonald in 1950


Photo from Jack Swords in 2000.










There were foundation lines everywhere... I didn't even realize I parked on a site until I walked back to my truck!


Here is that hill, just east of La Capilla/ La Pasión, as seen in the 1950 and other photos.


The view to the site (on the right), across the arroyo, from the graded road going east.


Between the pila on the low hill and the goat ranch, La Capilla.

PHOTOS are the only 100% way we have to preserve the historic sites before natural or human activity erases them.

From here I go on to see if I can get a clear view of the first Dolores mission buildings, near the gulf coast, but way down in a canyon!

STAY TUNED! I will create some maps to go with my drive this afternoon.






[Edited on 8-19-2017 by David K]

[Edited on 8-19-2017 by David K]

2009 and 2003 Baja Almanac Maps

My route is highlighted... a few dashed lines and pointers added to help me follow the route as I was matching with my GPS track onto the Almanac map.
La Pasión is incorrectly shown by Merecuaco. It is at La Capilla, 2 miles east of La Presa (where the two yellow highlights meet). La Capilla is on the south side of the road, not north, as shown. Past La Capilla, 'Toris de la Presa' was called Santa María de la Toris on the road sign.

The 2003 Baja Almanac

It had a trail shown as a major graded road, south of La Presa. Blurred it away.


Edited to show road I was on (6.1 mile section) that continued beyond the 1.5 mile section of poor road on the AAA map. That spot = T junction for Rancho Merecuaco. The 'new section' goes 6.1 miles looping around La Tortuga hill, crossing Arroyo San Pedro/La Presa, and meeting the graded road. It was 5.7 miles east to the La Pasión junction. I subtracted 5.7 from the AAA's 11.5 giving 5.8 miles on the balance of the graded road going west.

Here is the mission region from space:



Zoom in:



La Pasión was the visita location name. When Mission Los Dolores relocated to La Pasión, the missionaries generally referred to it by the location name, not the official mission name (Nuestra Señora de los Dolores Chillá, and sometimes as Dolores del Sur as there was a visita named Dolores, near Loreto).

The same thing occurred at Todos Santos, which was the visita name. When it was elevated to a mission, the official name was Santa Rosa de las Palmas, but the location name 'Todos Santos was used. When the La Paz mission moved to there, it replaced Santa Rosa, but it was more often called Todos Santos, still!

Clearing up these mission names was one of my book's goals.





[Edited on 8-19-2017 by David K]

By all means, take photos of the site! It may be the last ones taken before it is gone!


Thank you, Marquis McDonald, for your seeking to see all of Baja's 'Lost' Missions, as many where back then before most roads (1949-1950).

DAY 4c-5a, Friday Evening-Saturday Morning

Having my fill of the old stones and foundation outlines from this long ago Spanish California mission, I moved on east (well northeast) to see how close I could get to the Dolores overlook.

Mission Nuestra Señora de los Dolores Apaté was the 9th California mission, founded in 1721. It was the result of the failure at the Ligüí
/Malibat mission location (1705-1721). The benefactor for that mission (the third in California) suffered bankruptcy and his funds dried up. The Jesuits kept the mission going but it was in a bad location and was raided often by hostile Pericú Indians.

When new funding was found, the mission also began anew, far to the south of Ligüí and with a new name. First established close to the beach, where shallow wells provided fresh water (probably where Rancho Dolores is today), within two years, the mission was moved into the canyon just east of the beach about 2 miles away.

Ruins with standing walls have survived at Dolores Apaté along with other walls, a man-made storage cave, irrigation canals, etc. No road goes to Dolores, so one must get there from the sea or hike down a very steep Camino Real trail from above. This isolated location did not serve the Guaycura Natives who lived beyond the canyon, so Padre Clemente Guillén had long desired to move the mission, and he did in 1741, to La Pasión. That site was known to the Indians as Chillá or Tañuetía (The Place of Ducks).

My time limits and energy availability prohibited me from making the 1,000 foot drop and return from the location down there. I would have to try and find a point on the ridge that the road to Los Burros comes close to and see if I could get a photo from above, as others had done.

The hike was short to the first place I could see the site, but it wasn't ideal. I tried to find another vantage point and came across a dead coyote. Reaching for my camera, in my pocket, it wasn't there!!! PANIC!!!

It was late, the sun was nearing the horizon and I was bush whacking near the cliff edge for a photo op. How did it get out of my pocket!!??

Well circling back between the thorny plants I finally found it. A young ocotillo-like plant grabbed the camera leash, that was dangling out of my pocket. I saw my camera hanging on the small plant, above the ground. Wow, relief!

I took more photos of what I thought were the ruins, my eyes are not so good anymore, but when I looked at the zoom image on my camera, it seemed I got it.

I got my truck turned around on the very rocky road. I originally had hoped to go down to Los Burros (Ensenada Cortez) but the one steep grade to this point was really bad and I was no longer feeling like another steep drop to go down, then back up the next morning. I drove back westward and found a bit of a sandy arroyo to put up my tent. The tent was to protect me from bugs if there were any. Mosquitos love me and all the B vitamins in the world don't deter them. The sun was going down, I made my dinner of brats from Costco, and all was good.

The next morning, after seeing on the GPS/map I am very near another possible view point of the mission, I drive just 1/4 mile back east, see the path to the north and it is drivable for about 500 feet. I hike the remaining distance to the cliff egde and take more photos. I have not (until now) examined those photo... So we are all seeing what I got today, for the first time! Cross your fingers...

PHOTOS:


View of Rancho Dolores trees, Gulf of California (Sea of Cortez) and islands.


View up the canyon to where I think the mission ruins are about.


View closer to the coast, looking north.


First zoom attempt. That square corral I knew was near the ruins.

I need to find a better spot along the cliff... I lose my camera... find it... and take a photo of the coyote, which probably saved me from losing my camera forever!



The new spot was not better, so I return to my truck and go find a camp spot. Here is the photos from Saturday morning after hiking to the edge of the gint cliff...






Cliff face and Sea of Cortez... morning sun washing photo a bit.

Now, for the mission:




EUREKA! That's it, left of the square corral walls.




That pointy hill helps spot it. Here is a regular view from another spot.


Okay, check...
Here's a better photographer's (Jack Swords) view, with a better camera, a few years ago, March 2001, a different angle too:


Coming up next, the long crossing of the mountains, seeing Mike and Rebecca again (the Canadians on bikes), a low tire pressure light comes on, and the steep drop to San Evaristo... and on to La Paz!

Quote: Originally posted by Mexitron

Awesome report! Two things: 1. Come out to Texas and do landscaping work with me in the summer and it will cure your aversion to the cold. 2. Take me with you next time, lol!!!

That's okay... I still like it warm over cold no matter how hot it can get or how hard it is to sleep in the heat. The AC at night does spoil you, I must say!

Let's go, you buy the gas and I'll buy the beer!

I edited the earlier map and mileage notes post having just compared my route with the AAA map. It may not show as much as the Almanac map does, but for navigating while driving, it is easier to use.

Here is the new edits:


Edited to show road I was on (6.1 mile section) that continued beyond the 1.5 mile section of poor road on the AAA map. That spot = T junction for Rancho Merecuaco. The 'new section' goes 6.1 miles looping around La Tortuga hill, crossing Arroyo San Pedro/La Presa, and meeting the graded road. It was 5.7 miles east to the La Pasión junction. I subtracted 5.7 from the AAA's 11.5 giving 5.8 miles on the balance of the graded road going west.

Total (Partial) Miles to La Pasión (Rancho La Capilla)
0.0 (0.0) Mission San Luis Gonzaga (1:24 pm)
5.3 (5.3) Curve right, ranch on left.
7.4 (2.1) Ranch house (El Plátano?), concrete creek crossing, oasis.
8.1 (0.7) Fork, main travel goes left.
8.9 (0.6) San José de la Palmita (?)
10.2 (1.3) Ranch (El Caporal ?), process building, road junction.
12.2 (2.0) Ranch
15.5 (3.3) T intersection. Rancho Merecuaco is 0.4 mi right (south). Go left.
19.4 (3.9) Weather Station, ranch houses.
20.0 (0.6) Big arroyo crossing (Arroyo San Pedro on AAA map, Arroyo La Presa on Baja Almanac).
21.6 (1.6) Major Graded Road (3:22 pm)
22.5 (0.9) Road right signed to El Chicural & Aguajito.
24.9 (2.4) Rancho Cantarana
26.8 (1.9) Rancho La Presa (closed to visitors)
27.3 (0.5) Junction. Ahead to El Solano & San Evaristo. Left to La Pasión, Santa María de la Toris, Los Burros. Turn left.
29.1 (1.8) Ranch on left and a road to the right crosses arroyo to the mission site. Turn right, cross arroyo. If ranch gate is closed, turn left just past and drive along the fence to get to the other side of the ranch house.
29.3 (0.2) Rancho La Capilla and Mission Los Dolores Chillá (La Pasión) ruins. The ranch owner, 'Modesto' tells me visitors are welcome!

Just curious, but is that your cot riding on its edge? Is there a reason for edge placement (vs riding flat)? A space-saving thing?

Day 5 Continued... Dolores Overlook to La Paz

Well, I was satisfied after all those bumpy miles and hiking to see the 1721-1741 Dolores mission. Back to my truck and return to the road past La Pasión. On the north bank of the arroyo, before Rancho La Presa, is an aqueduct used to bring water to the old ranch from the water source at La Pasión. The ranch was the property of one of Baja's first Mexican governors during the transition period in the 1820s, Fernando de la Toba. He is buried there. Jack Swords managed to see the grave as well as the impressive aqueduct. Two pages of photos beginning here: http://www.vivabaja.com/swords/page4.html

From Jack Sword's:
The governor's grave:


The aqueduct:


I could see that aqueduct on Google Earth and where I could park my truck and hike to it...


See it?




So, 1936 was a leap year?


Very cool even if this isn't over 100-years old.


Back at the major graded road, near La Presa, ~Km. 56. Las Lagrimas is another name for Cantarrana, the ranch west of La Presa.
I am turning left here. Set odometer to 0.0

4.8 miles: I come to San Pedro de la Presa. AAA map says 4.7, so we are close!


Km. 63.5



7.4 miles: Rancho Las Animas was 2.6 miles from San Pedro de la Presa, at Km. 68.

Some pretty wild mountain country and a few big grades were concrete surfaced. This big one was 2 miles from Las Animas, at Km. 71+:


9.4 miles


17.8 miles: Major Intersection near Km. 85. Las Pocitas is out on Hwy. 1.


Lots of signs!


18.0 miles: Here is the Km. 85 post, and a fork. La Soledad is a dead end road, 0.8 miles (1.3 kms.) to the right. A ranch and an impressive church are there. But at just over a kilometer away, the Km. 88 post at La Soledad is not correct. A large school is here at the junction of roads, serving area ranches. The same was true at Santa María de la Toris, near La Pasión.


18.8 miles: Church at La Soledad

I turn around and go back to the school area and take the road signed El Bosque (for the way to San Evaristo and La Paz). Set odometer to 0.0 here.
0.0 Km.85, schools, near La Soledad on map
1.8 Rancho Las Paredes, gasoline for sale per signs.
2.3 La Vibora Blanca & La Purificación signs.
4.3 El Primer Bosque road north.
4.8 El Bosque road south.
7.5 Top of big grade. View of gulf. elev. 1,680'.
11.5 Bottom of grade, coast road (but not in sight of coast). San Evaristo is 1.6 miles to the left and the road ends in 2.4 miles at a ranch facing some salt mine works. One business for visitors on the beach, otherwise a fishing camp.


I think this was Segunda Bosque?


Top of grade to gulf coast. Isla San José off shore.




Salt works at the end of the road north.




San Evaristo is an attractive fishing camp.

Reset odometer to 0.0 for the run to La Paz.








18.8 miles Punta Coyote. This beach was just south, where the road left the coast.

29.0 An extensive shrimp farm with many canals, using old slat flats, out of sight of the ocean.


Bad luck boat, near San Juan de la Costa.

42.1 miles: Pier for San Juan de la Costa. A paved road, used for mine vehicles is separated from the non-workers dirt road, next to the beach. However, without signs, you must figure how to get to that road, as it is the only way south. The beach road was washed out ahead and is a lagoon now.
43.5 Beach Cabins on the left, here you must fork to the right, leaving the beach road. Beach route dead ends in 0.9 mi.
44.3 T Junction, turn left.
44.5 Meet paved road, turn left (south). Just ahead (south) is a sign directing northbound traffic to turn off the highway, this leads them to the other side of the lagoon/ washed-out-road. Km. 38.5

Reset odometer to 0.0: San Juan de la Costa
8.3 miles El Califin beach.
9.5 miles Km. 23 Beach.
21.3 miles Km. 4 El Mogote road.
23.6 Pemex/ market at the junction with Mexico Highway 1. Km. 17 west of La Paz.


Nearing La Paz, this is the view looking east, across the bay to La Paz. which is a 'west coast' city, on the east side of the Baja peninsula!

I get to Harald's home very shortly, Karl ('Fernweh') is there as well. Harald ('4x4abc') has been living in the La Paz area for many years and Karl is a more recent arrival. Both are from Germany but have lived many years in the United States before moving to Mexico. Harald is an author of books on using and driving 4x4s. He maintains many great information pages at www.4x4abc.com.

I am offered his guest room and it was great, AC, WiFi, and a swimming pool! As many on Baja Nomad know, Harald had a terrible accident and broke his right leg, below the knee, about 6 weeks ago. It was so bad, the local doctors said it would need amputating! With help from friends and Nomad donations, a specialist was brought in from Mexico City, and hopefully, the leg will be fully functional. When I was there, he was very mobile but wheelchair bound only. Not much more I could do but help with the pool and other small things. Harald had everything well under control.

That evening, Karl took us to dinner in La Paz and a very nice fresh seafood place. The name is a secret, I am told, so you will need to force it from him! LOL This time of year, restaurants are not busy!

Great sleep, had Wifi so I could talk with my wife and post onto Nomad or Tacoma World and Facebook, a little.

Tomorrow, the tire will get fixed. It got a sharp puncture before dropping off the mountain above San Evaristo. It was a slow leak, so I waited to La Paz, just in case what I did makes it worse. I simply added air every 20 miles or so.

Coming up next, Sunday Day 6... LA PAZ and a needed rest!

Total Miles for DAY 5: 181... almost 11 hours since leaving camp.








[Edited on 8-20-2017 by David K]

Quote: Originally posted by Beagle

Great report! Great info! Great Pics!!! Thanks for the education, David.

Quote: Originally posted by Jack Swords

You just illustrated my favorite part of Baja! Very nice photos making me miss that area even more. Still lots of adventure left in Baja.

DAY 6 (SUN. Aug 6, 2017) Near La Paz to La Paz.

Harald's home has the outdoors in focus as living outside is where life should be lived.

His kitchen and living room are outside, the guest room is next door, and his mission chapel meditation room is attached. All his building ideas were gleaned from a Spanish/ Moorish villa photographs he saw in a magazine.

The project is new, but fortunately, plants grow quickly in the tropics. Plants chosen were gathered out on Harald's 4X4 trips and he has a lot of room for expansion.

Monday's only project was plugging my tire's newly acquired needle-hole. Harald could get out to examine it and make sure the plug went in at the correct angle. It worked and held air for the next 10 days, and 2,000 miles!

Now, I could visit with Harald and do any assistance while he is wheelchair bound. The only request was for me to use the swimming pool and clean the steps, not reachable by the auto pool sweeper. Easy for me, and until the wind blows more, that pool was clean!

You know you are in the tropics when coconuts grow on trees... by the pool at Harald's:



Here was the very enjoyable pool, solar heated in the winter, but ideal when it was 102° in August, with humidity!



As the sun dropped, I took Harald to the Malecon and we found a cool outdoor burger joint (that also doubled as a surfboard rental shop... Harker's: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g150771-d77790...

I had the bacon cheese burger with fries and Harald had the sliders... and cold Pacificos. We watched the people walking, cruising, and the sun setting. The La Paz Malecon is a great experience for casual dining outdoors.

Day 6 was a success... the work was done, and I was relaxed!

Day 7 would be a BUSY day collection data, photos, and meeting an old friend, for the first time, Osprey ('Jorge') on Baja Nomad and other writing projects.

Stay tuned!

Quote: Originally posted by BajaOkie

Excellent Report David, One of my favorite parts of Baja also. Great pictures and great descriptions.

Quote: Originally posted by Barry A.

Wonderful reports, David. Many thanks for all you do. Barry

Quote: Originally posted by David K

Quote: Originally posted by Barry A.   Wonderful reports, David. Many thanks for all you do. Barry Enjoy the eclipse Barry, it starts soon and the clouds just burned away here. Not so big a deal where I am, but it should be a lot darker where you are!

DAY 7 (MON Aug. 7, 2017): South to Todos Santos and Los Cabos

I was up and on the road at 8:08 and stopped at the Oxxo (they are everywhere) for a bag of ice, 21 pesos.

Made notes of Hwy. 1, La Paz entrance kilometer markers:
Km. 11 Campestre Maranatha Campground/ Café Exquisito, on right



Km. 10 Breakfast place on left 'Jalisco'
Km. 9 Airport Road
Km. 8 Dove or Whale Tale Monument (Malecon left, Cabo right)



You fork right at the Dove/Whale Tale and right again by the WalMart onto a levee road to cross over to the Todos Santos/Cabo San Lucas highway.

There does not seem to be any kilometer markers for almost 7 miles southbound on Hwy. 1, and then there it is Km. 200 (from Cabo via Los Barriles).

Pass through the farm center of San Pedro around Km. 189

Km. 185: Fork, Left to Los Barriles and Los Cabos vis Hwy. 1 or right to Todos Santos and Cabo San Lucas (Mex. #19). Unlike the other kilometer markers, Hwy. 19's numbers get bigger going south.

Km. 46 New non-Pemex gasoline dealer, SmartGas





The bypass around Todos Santos is at Km. 47+. It is 4.6 miles long and totally stays out-of-sight of Todos Santos. I drove around twice to go through town on the first paved road then on the bypass to map and record it.

On the first paved road...
Km. 49 Pemex
Km. 49.5 Playground and church on the left (east) side.

The playground was the location of the first Todos Santos Mission, founded in 1733 with the name Santa Rosa de las Palmas, it was California's 13th mission. Bad luck followed when the Pericú Revolution began the following year. Padre Taraval was saved, but his Jesuit brothers at Santiago and San José del Cabo were murdered and their mission burned. La Paz mission was also attacked. The Jesuits and Spanish soldiers took over two years to regain control of the southern four missions.

In 1748, the mission on La Paz Bay was moved to Todos Santos and replaced Mission Santa Rosa there. 13 was an unlucky mission number!

Also, the mission at San José del Cabo was reduced to being a visita of Santiago (for the next 20 years). Four mission became two. It was a dramatic period that ended with the Jesuit expulsion in 1768.

See, when I drive in Baja, I think of all the years people struggled there, it meant that much to all of them! The mission here in Todos Santos was officially known as Nuestra Señora del Pilar de la Paz, but most documents written in the years that followed called the mission Todos Santos (the original visita name before a mission was here). No Native name was recorded for the location.

After I look through the 1970 church behind the playground, I try and find any signs of the 1733-1825 mission ruins (the mission moved again in 1825 to the church site in the town plaza, less than a mile south).

I do see some bricks and a survey pin of sorts, but no guarantees. 9:37 am.

I arrive at the plaza and walk into the large church, modified since mission times with a new entry. Signs here do tell the mission story to enquiring minds.

As I head out of town I spot a car wash operation (man with a hose and bucket) next door to a breakfast café. Success, I am hungry and my truck is dirty (from El Datil salt flat oops). The restaurant is called La Valentina (110 pesos) and the car wash is El Cayito (90 pesos).

Todos Santos was very good to me this morning!

On south...

TO BE CONTINUED...

PHOTOS:


1970 church built next to 1733-1825 mission site (now playground).






Just above the east side of Hwy. 19, north entrance to Todos Santos... Visita Todos Santos in 1725, Mission #13 (Santa Rosa) in 1733, then Mission #7 (Pilar del la Paz) in 1748.


Mission floor or wall foundation?


View from the highway, looking east. Playground and church.


Prayer shrine in front of the playground. Pray for a mission museum here?


Some sort of survey pin near the corner of the 1970 church.


The 1825 Mission new location, original front entrance.


Addition cross entrance added early 1900s?


Photos by Joseph R. Slevin in 1919.


At least they are trying!


Original entrance.






Breakfast here, car wash, next door.

Now, let's go see some beaches!
Stay tuned!

Quote: Originally posted by David K

There was no sign at the junction but it was a major fork. Located inland, out of sight, from the coast, and just 1.6 miles south of the beach fishing village.

Quote: Originally posted by Alan

Quote: Originally posted by David K   There was no sign at the junction but it was a major fork. Located inland, out of sight, from the coast, and just 1.6 miles south of the beach fishing village. Well I'm headed back down in a week. If the fishing and the weather cools I'll give it another shot.

Quote: Originally posted by Alan

Quote: Originally posted by David K   There was no sign at the junction but it was a major fork. Located inland, out of sight, from the coast, and just 1.6 miles south of the beach fishing village. Well I'm headed back down in a week. If the fishing and the weather cools I'll give it another shot.

It is a very rough drive and while attractive views and oasis canyon palms are beautiful... it still is a slow drive. That you are in intense mission country may be of interest.. the 1720s -1768.
Use Google Earth to see the roads and that junction before you drive, maybe?



View looking west, the road up the mountain is 1.6 miles from the fishing village and junctions on a curve, where the blue arrow is pointing.

DAY 7b South from Todos Santos

After my breakfast and car wash, I continued south of the original highway to Cabo San Lucas.

Km. 56: South junction of bypass highway. I drive back north on it to measure and GPS track it, since it is too new to appear on our favorite maps (2010 AAA or 2009 Baja Almanac). I measure it at 4.6 miles long back to Km. 47+ on the original road. It is just 2 lanes and has separate kilometer markers. There was nothing I noted along the 7-kilometer bypass that simply avoids going through Todos Santos for those who are bound for places on south. The highway returns to 4-lanes-wide.

Km. 57+ Is an unmarked road off to the right (southwest) that goes to San Pedrito. See my Baja Bound article for more on this place (visited in 2012): https://www.bajabound.com/bajaadventures/bajatravel/the_trop...

Km. 62 Pemex station El Pescadero
Km. 62.5+ Baja Beans R.V. Park



Km. 79 BajaBeachOasis.com on the sign. 0.3 mi to a big sand beach.





Km. 100 Puente El Migriño (bridge over big arroyo) and lots of off roader tracks in the dry river bed, below.

Km. 100.5 Road down to arroyo on south side of bridge, passes ATV rental business in 0.1 mi and arrives at the beach in 0.8 mi from the highway.








You can see the highway bridge, 3/4 mile to the east, El Migriño.


Km. 117 Los Cabos Bypass to go directly to San José del Cabo airport.



Km. 124 Enter Cabo San Lucas. It is a mess of traffic!


Here is the other new competition to Pemex for gasoline sales in Mexico, seen on this trip.





I drove to the abandoned fish cannery building where Km. 0 once was... the very south end of the Transpeninsular Highway. There was a ferry dock here that went to Puerto Vallarta for a few years.






Have enough? Can I go now? Thanks!

Km. 12.5 Playa Santa María
Km. 14.5 Chileno Bay Beach Parking
Km. 16 El Tule, open beach.
Km. 27.5+ View Parking...







Km. 28 beach access

It is such heavy traffic and no pull offs before I realize I miss the south entrance to San José del Cabo and go to the downtown entrance. I first try to park near the mission site/ plaza... with only one narrow street going to it, and all other one-way streets going the wrong way, I abandon the thought of circling the city again. I did get in front of it in 2012:


Church at final mission site for San José del Cabo, 2012 photo.



Baja Judy's business, found! All locked up. I had an email exchange with Jaime (Judy's husband) and he said they would not be there and with nobody in Los Cabos in the summer, they aren't open. I just wondered who were the thousands of people on the highway, paying $3.43/ gallon if this was the 'dead season'??

Km. 39 North edge of San José del Cabo

OK amigos... that's enough for now... When I return, I have photos of the drive north on Hwy. 1 back to La Paz. A nice visit with Jorge ('Osprey' on Baja Nomad) and more to come!

Quote: Originally posted by David K

Quote: Originally posted by Alan   Quote: Originally posted by David K   There was no sign at the junction but it was a major fork. Located inland, out of sight, from the coast, and just 1.6 miles south of the beach fishing village. Well I'm headed back down in a week. If the fishing and the weather cools I'll give it another shot. It is a very rough drive and while attractive views and oasis canyon palms are beautiful... it still is a slow drive. That you are in intense mission country may be of interest.. the 1720s -1768. Use Google Earth to see the roads and that junction before you drive, maybe? View looking west, the road up the mountain is 1.6 miles from the fishing village and junctions on a curve, where the blue arrow is pointing.

Quote: Originally posted by David K

I just wondered who were the thousands of people on the highway, paying $3.43/ gallon if this was the 'dead season'??

DAY 7c, North from Los Cabos

Km. 43 Airport Road, Pemex
Km. 46, Santa Anita
Km. 54.5 Narranjas Road
Km. 62.5 Paved road east to Las Casitas
Km. 65.5 Paved road west to Cadueño. Sideroad passes a water park (closed), goes through the little town, and pops back out to Highway 1 at Km. 66+.
Km. 71 Paved road west to Miraflores, 1.5 miles. A paved road goes north from town to the foot of the mountain, Boca de la Sierra. There a hiking trail and park is featured, 4.4 miles from Highway 1.
Km. 81.5 The Tropic of Cancer line. A museum/ rest area has been established here. On the first day of summer, the sun is directly overhead, at noon.




Church in Caduaño. Some historians say Caduaño was the final location of the Santiago mission for its final five years to 1795, when it was closed.




Paved road from Miraflores to Boca de la Sierra.


Tropic of Cancer.








The dashed line is the Tropic of Cancer.




[Edited on 8-23-2017 by David K]

DAY 7 continued... South to North

Km. 84.5 Paved road west to Santiago. Taking the road into Santiago, the long bridge over the riverbed is crossed and at Mile 1.5 is a Pemex station and plaza. Continuing across town is the church at Mile 1.9 and was the location of Mission Santiago from 1736 following the Pericú Revolt.
Mile 2.4 from Highway 1 is the location of the Santiago Zoo and the end of the paved road. The zoo has had a lot of controversy over the treatment of the animals and appears to have been closed, with signage painted over. There were some animals in pens, however.

Back on Highway 1...

Km. 89.5 To the left of the road and looking north, see the Bat Cave of Santiago. Read more in my article on Baja Bound: https://www.bajabound.com/bajaadventures/bajatravel/the_bat_...

Km. 92.5 Paved road east to La Ribera and Cabo Pulmo. Just off Highway 1, a dirt road leaves the La Ribera road to go under the highway bridge to the bat cave. La Ribera is 12 kilometers from Highway 1 (7+ miles).

Km. 105 Buena Vista Resort
Km. 107 Buena Vista village
Km. 108.5 Los Barriles Pemex
Km. 110 Los Barriles paved main entrance.
Km. 127.5 San Bartolo
Km. 147 Graded road south to San Antonio de la Sierra, passing the famous Real de Sant Ana, the first commercial mine operation in California (silver). This was also where the Santiago mission was first established.
Km. 155.5 San Antonio (former silver mine and capital of Baja California Sur) and the junction with the paved road north to San Juan de los Planes (20 kms.), La Ventana, etc.
Km. 163 El Triunfo. The silver mines here flourished after the San Antonio mines were exhausted. The mines operated between 1860 and 1926. The Boleo copper mine people of Santa Rosalia tried to reestablish operations and built a loading dock at Ensenada de los Muertos to ship the silver bars out.
Km. 177.5+ Road north to San Blas and on to the La Paz-Los Planes highway.
Km. 185 Junction with Highway 19 to Todos Santos and Cabo San Lucas.
Km. 189 San Pedro
Km. 194 Pemex station.
Km. 200, final kilometer sign seen before La Paz.
Km. 200 + 7.0 miles = Km. 211+: Levee road west to Dove/ Whale Tail monument at the north entrance to La Paz. The levee road is 2 miles long between the two parts of Highway 1. The Home Depot and Wal Mart are near the Dove end of the 'cut-across' road.

PHOTOS:


The Palomar Inn, Santiago, a restaurant, was once a popular Inn or hideaway for Hollywood celebrities!


A modern church on the mission site of Santiago, California's 10th Spanish mission. The first mission attempt was to the north at Santa Ana (near today's San Antonio) in 1722. That failed after the new wall collapsed during a hurricane and killed many natives.
In 1724, Padre Nápoli tried again, only further south (about 2 miles north of this location). That prospered until the Pericú Revolt of 1734 in which the missionary at Santiago (Lorenzo Carranco) and the missionary at San José del Cabo (Nicolás Tamaral) were killed and burned. When the Spanish and Jesuits regained control over two years later, the Santiago mission was moved to this spot.
The history of events in this rugged land is so fascinating. Read more details in my book, Baja California Land of Missions, www.oldmissions.com now in its fourth printing, thank you for your interest!




Just inside the church and behind a (less than clear) plexiglass window is this preserved mission bell.




Across from the church in Santiago.


Off to the left of the highway, looking north... do you see it?


The Bat Cave!


Entering La Ribera (the b and v are interchangeable in Spanish, at least here!)


The Piano Museum in El Triunfo. One of the silver mine smoke stacks is in the background.




El Triunfo church


El Triunfo as seen from Highway 1, looking back if driving to La Paz.


The Dove of Peace (La Paz = The Peace) at the entrance to La Paz from the north. Others (including street namers) call this a "Whale Tail".

Special note to Baja Nomads:
I finally got to meet George Bergin or "Jorge" or "Osprey" who had been so kind to review my book manuscript before it was printed and offered a review along with authors Graham Mackintosh and Greg Niemann...

I wanted to present Osprey with his own, well deserved, printed copy of my book.

George and Lynda were very nice to visit with and I hope to help Osprey share his many stories in future posts here.

Here is the back cover, featuring George's review:

Quote: Originally posted by blackwolfmt

Awzome stuff DK

DAY 8: North and East from La Paz (Tecolote, Ensenada de los Muertos)

Perhaps an area map to help visualize the places I visited on DAY 8 is in order?



I took a look at the campground (RV Park) Campestre Maranatha, located behind the coffee shop Café Exquisito, at Km. 11 (between El Centenario and La Paz) on the right (south) side of the highway.

I had breakfast near the airport road along Hwy. 1 at a place called "Jalisco" and it was very good and just 90 pesos (=$5.19)+ tip. This is located by the Kilometer 10 marker, on the left (north) side of the highway.

The airport road is at Km. 9 and the "Dove" is at Km. 8. Going south to Cabo, you would fork right at the Dove and again just ahead, another right onto the levee road. This time, I continue straight (left fork) which is now going north into downtown La Paz.

One thing that becomes obvious, particularly on the side streets, stop signs are just suggestions, more of a yield sign, maybe. If you do stop (when there is no cross-traffic) and cars are behind you, plan on being rear-ended! LOL, no, didn't happen to me, but I sure can visualize it!

I top my gas tank in La Paz, having driven 325 miles since my last fill up. The price was 15.72 pesos/liter. The station offered an exchange of 16.50 pesos/dollar, but I had pesos purchased at 17.35/dollar. The truck took on 68.72 liters (18.15 gallons) meaning I got 17.9 MPG, which is great (mostly that this Pemex has honest liters). The cost was 1100 pesos plus a 20 peso tip for the attendant (nice personality and cleaned windows).

I drive along the Malecon (sea drive) and manage to take a few 'out-the-window' photos of the many interesting statues. I took many in 2012 when we were last here. There is a new one, an oyster with a big black pearl inside.

That hamburger and surf board rental place (Harker) that Harald and I ate at was 1.2 miles from the Dove

I do stop where I find a parking spot and walk across the street to the beach for a couple photos. Then, on north, past the ferry docks (transport across the gulf to the Mexican Mainland) and to both Balandra Beach and Tecolote Beach, very popular and already busy on this Tuesday morning.

The Dove to the La Paz Bypass road (to access the ferry landing for cargo trucks and others without going through La Paz city) is 5.8 miles. There are some kilometer markers and ...

Km. 13 is Tesoro Beach at Mile 8.7 from the Dove.

Km. 17 (11.4 miles from the Dove) is the Ferry Landing. Today two Baja Ferry ships were in port.

Km. 24 is the paved road left to parking for Balandra Beach. This is where the famous Mushroom Rock can be walked to. The beach parking lot was filling up when I got there.

(=Km. 27) 1.8 miles north of the Balandra road is Tecolote Beach, a north facing beach across from Espíritu Santo Island.

Some photos then turn back south and drive 9.2 miles (~15 kms.) to the Bypass route that goes around the east side of La Paz, avoiding downtown. These city bypass roads are called 'Libremiente' and most have them or someday will. Kilometer markers on the Libremiente begin on the north end...

Km. 6.5 is a big power plant.
Km. 17.5 is a Pemex station
Just south of the Pemex is the highway east to San Juan de los Planes and the coast.

A new set of kilometer markers is on this highway, and Kilometer 6 is 2.5 miles from the Libremiente road, which I will say is about Km. 4 for the San Juan de los Planes road.

13.1 miles from Libremiente (~Km. 21) is a dirt road south to Los Divisaderos and San Blas and goes on to Hwy. 1. Signed as an "Eco-Tourism" road.

Km. 37 Paved road north to La Ventana and El Sargento....

TO BE CONTINUED!

PHOTOS:


Km. 11 RV Park and coffee shop


RV parking, nearly empty.


Malecon drive, La Paz


























Balandra Beach


The Mushroom Rock is just around that point on the right.


Photo from 2012.








View from highway to San Juan de los Planes. That is Punta Arena in the distance.

TO BE CONTINUED ...


[Edited on 8-24-2017 by David K]

Quote: Originally posted by danaeb

The correct name for the beach is "Balandra".

DAY 8 continued...

Km. 37 on the San Juan de los Planes road is the paved road north to La Ventana and El Sargento.
Taking this road north
Km. 6+ Beach access, 0.5 mi.
Km. 7.5 (Mile 4.6) RV Park
Km. 8 Playa Central, fenced ejido beach park north side.
Km. 8.5 Hotel
Km. 10 El Sargento; Oxxo Market/Pemex Station.
Km. 11+ End of pavement, beach to right.

PHOTOS:


Westbound BCS Hwy. 286 to San Juan de los Planes.


Isla Cerralvo


La Ventana




A figate bird


El Sargento




Back south at La Ventana


Km. 8, they were closed for the summer.


Km. 6+ (+0.5 mi. in)


La Ventana in the background, El Sargento beyond, up the coast.

NEXT, to Ensenada de los Muertos and Punta Arena... stay tuned!

Quote: Originally posted by kevin_in_idaho

Love seeing the pictures and info. Have you ever taken your car on the ferry to mainland Mexico? We're thinking of doing Copper Canyon and the Butterfly migration and might take the ferry over one way or the other.

Back on the highway between La Paz and San Juan de los Planes...

Km. 37 El Sargento/ La Ventana highway junction.
Km. 39.5+ Pemex station, San Juan de los Planes
Km. 40.5 Paved road north to San Antonio on Hwy. 1 (20 kms. on sign, I measured it at 13.3 miles, as I returned to La Paz this way).
The road ahead passes through the town of San Juan de los Planes. Km. 0 in town.
Km. 3 Highway eastbound makes a 90° left (north) turn. A dirt road that continues east here is the road down to Los Barriles along the coast, called Boca del Alamo, ~30 miles.
Km. 11.5 Dirt road to left goes to Punta Arena, 3.7 miles. A beautiful sand beach with a lighthouse.
=Km. 13 (0.9 mi from Punta Arena road) End of Pavement.
=Km. 14.5 (1.8 mi from Punta Arena road) Ensenada de los Muertos, boat launch.
Just beyond is a restaurant next to the silver ore docks built in the 1920s by the Boleo company.

PHOTOS:

Ensenada de los Muertos:









Punta Arena:




Isla Cerralvo





Returning to La Paz, I take the highway north to San Antonio then Highway 1 to La Paz. It is raining a bit as I drive around El Triunfo...




In 2012, we spent more time here with Steve and Zully.





People were selling pitayas (pitahayas) along the street and I bought a bag to take back to Harald's house for us to enjoy. 50 pesos for a couple dozen, golf ball size or bigger, reds and white flesh pitayas. Perhaps one of the finest fruits on earth... at least to the natives of Baja California!

The end of Day 8 and my last evening in the La Paz area. Thank you 4x4abc for your hospitality!

Tomorrow, I head north and west to the Pacific Coast at Punta Conejo then drive south on the Baja 1000 road to La Aguja and meet Rob and BajaLinda of Playas Pacificas.

Stay Tuned for DAY 9!

DAY 9 (WED. AUG. 9, 2017)

I say my goodbyes to Harald and leave his little compound oasis.
Some road notes driving north from La Paz on Highway 1...

Km. 17 Junction with paved road to San Juan de la Costa and on to San Evaristo (the way I came to La Paz, a few days earlier).
Km. 21 Federal Police Checkpoint (not military). Waved through.
Km. 38+ Paved road west to Conquista Agraria, 28 kms. This is the fastest route to Playas Pacificas (La Aguja). However, I want to explore more, so I continue north.
Km. 55.5 Dirt road west to La Aguja, 14 miles. I will come out this way in 2 days.
Km. 76.5 San Agustin, large home/building on the left.
Km. 79.5 Punta Conejo road west. Dirt road, no typical government signs.

0.0 Highway 1
9.1 Fork, left for Punta Conejo and south.
9.4 Fishing camp, Punta Conejo. I was last here in 1985 and not much has changed!
9.7 Punta Conejo Lighthouse, shoreline. The sea water is so clear!

The road south is very rough on jagged rock face much of the distance south.

0.0 Punta Conejo Lighthouse
0.4 Ranch driveway
0.9 Beach access (0.1 to west)
2.3 Road to beach.
6.2 Abandoned ranch
10.0 Playas Pacificas (La Aguja) entrance gate.

The next day, Rob shows me the road south and the farm villages nearby.

Rob and BajaLinda have a commanding view of the huge beach and coast to the south. I am offered a place to relax and they treat me like royalty. MANY MANY THANKS! Linda is quite the gourmet cook, as well!

Mike Younghusband received a warm and helpful welcome when he and Don-Kay walked the length of Baja, a few years ago.

PHOTOS:


Road at Km. 38+ to Conquista Agraria and on to La Aguja.


Punta Conejo road, just off Hwy. 1 (Km. 79.5)


2017


1985 (I was hoping the new one it was close to where I took this photo)


Punta Conejo


The Pacific sea water was so clear (compared to further north). This was at the lighthouse.


This was on the sand beach where the arroyo met the ocean, just south of the lighthouse. We camped here in 1985.




made a U-turn and went back to the lighthouse to record the road mileage from there to La Aguja.


Baja... not Fiji!




You can't get the feel of a road in photos, always. The Baja 1000, since 1979 has used this road when it has run to La Paz. The first 1000s (1967-1972) used Mex. 1, and was paved from Constitucion south to La Paz.


Rob and Linda have done much work to secure this land and have water rights and electrical power from La Paz.

See their web site for more details: www.playaspacificas.com


Rob and BajaLinda's home. Satellite Internet is how they talk to us on Nomad.


The guest house, as seen from their house.


My home for the next two nights... thank you... it was great!


The beach as seen from the guest house.
Yes, I went swimming... it was great!

The next day, Rob gives me a tour of the property, and nearby towns.
Stay tuned!

Map for DAY 9:

Rob took a photo of me holding the inReach satellite device and my cell phone (with the Garmin Earthmate app), which links to the inReach for texting or emailing anywhere in the world as well as live, topo maps of my location and moving track.

DAY 10 (THU. AUG 10. 2017)

Today, Rob wants to show me the project and nearby area.
After a delicious breakfast, we hop in the Tacoma and first drive up the hill above/ behind their home. Two homes are completed and occupied up there and one home is below, between the guest house I am in and Rob & Linda's.

Other lots are outlined with painted rocks and there is a concrete road that goes up the hill. Lots have widespread views.

A small boutique style hotel (single level) is planned for the point in front. It would serve as a place for prospective homeowners to stay awhile and maybe for their visiting guests, too?

The land is secure, the water is secure, and the power is secure and a paved road is not far away at Conquista going to La Paz.

PHOTOS:


Ancient beach, because the sea levels used to be higher, naturally!


Looking south to Punta Marquez.


Rob's water works ensure plenty of back-ups from their well.


Heading south to Punta Marquez


Punta Marquez Lighthouse


Looking back at this road split for westbound traffic heading to the coast (Playa Arroyo Seco & Punta Marquez).


Back at the entrance to Rancho La Aguja/ Playas Pacificas are bananas, mangos, guavas, and other exotic fruit trees that grow easily with the well water added.

End of the tour... thank you, Rob!

Now, I have amazing quiet time to work on my trip notes, tomorrow's plans, and take a walk and swim on the incredible beach out front!

The place begs you not to leave...

But, I have work to do... this is a job for me, after all! The Baja Bound Road Guide and Map still have some interesting roads to include!

DAY 11a (THU. AUG. 11, 2017)

BajaLinda makes sure I don't leave hungry and makes a delicious breakfast (again)... these Baja trips are brutal! Thank you, Linda!

Their guest room has a few books, and now one more in case the history of the Spanish occupation of Baja California is of interest to guests?

Their gate out on the north/south road is 1.3 miles from the homes. The short road to Hwy. 1 for northbound traffic turns south from their gate but soon bends eastward.

MILEAGE from Gate for Playas Pacificas:
0.2 & 0.4 Two roads turn south that continue down to Punta Marquez
3.6 Road comes in from the northwest.
4.0 Road south to Reforma Dos and Ejido Conquista (2.3 miles to paved road from La Paz)
4.2 Another road from Conquista
5.5 Fork, a road heads north. Continue ahead, eastward.
9.0 Junction with power line road coming from Conquista. Sign on the ground.
14.0 Highway 1, ~Km. 55.5 from La Paz.

There is widening on Hwy. 1, some kilometer markers have not been replaced.

Km. 110.5 Road west to Santa Fe.
Km. 112+ Los Pocitas, a road (a divided boulevard leaving Highway 1) to the north (northeast) goes approx. 42 miles to La Soledad and beyond to San Evaristo, etc. A gift shop here is of interest selling local crafts and antiques.
Km. 127.5 Unsigned junction with the road north to Mission San Luis Gonzaga (approx. 30 mi) or La Presa/ La Pasión region (approx. 40 mi).
Km. 157 Santa Rita. Paved road west to Puerto Chale.
Km. 173 Road west to Puerto Cancún.
Km. 195 Road east to Mission San Luis Gonzaga, 22.3 mi / 1 hour.
Km. 206 Motel and RV Park, west side of highway.
Km. 208 Enter Ciudad Constitución.
Km. 210.5 Pemex (one of many)
Km. 211.5 Hwy. 22 to Puerto San Carlos Junction.

Ok, a break from the road log...

So I pull into the Pemex, over on the left of the street. Get my tank filled (all women attendants, not bad, just rare). 15.73 pesos/liter, 50.9 liters in for the 205 miles traveled, 801 pesos. They try to sell me gas additive a couple times. I tell them that Pemex is good gas and the Toyota doesn't need the additives.

I go to start the Tacoma to leave.. and the battery is dead.
2,000 miles of crazy places I have stopped and started and the truck is smart enough to not start in a city, at a gas station, and a block from an Auto Zone store! The ladies had some kind of gizmo to jump the battery, but it doesn't work. I ask if one of them can come over and let me jump the batteries, she consents (gets a tip)... and a zip down the street to the bright Auto Zone store, on the right side of the street (northbound).

I leave my truck running and go inside... and am very impressed! I would say it looked exactly like any big Auto Zone in the U.S.

I ask one guy if they check batteries and they do. The device even printed out a reading with the word REPLACE (in Spanish)! The new battery included the install and what was nice, he plugged in something to my truck brain so none of my radio settings would be lost from removing the battery. My Barreries + store didn't even do that (5 years ago).

Fortunately, I could use my debit card for the battery as I was running out of pesos... and had to use my stash of dollars for the last couple fuel ups going home. They had the Good and the Better battery naturally. (4 year or 5 year). The cost was approx. $98 or $78, so I went with the $78 one. It was smaller than what was in there, but it is still working for me, 2 weeks and 2,000 miles later!

What a relief... but this was a stress factor indeed. Now I needed to worry if this battery will start my truck in remote places. The extra time today for this cut into my schedule and not wishing to be at the bottom of the Agua Verde grade and not be able to drive back up the same day, I opted to only drive to the view point and leave my truck running!

Constitucion to Insurgentes is a four lane wide highway and Highway 1 swings to the east at Insurgentes (Km. 0 here, too).

Km. 1 Pemex station
Km. 63.5 Paved junction for San Cosme and Puerto Agua Verde. A restaurant 'El Parguito' is at the junction.

Taking the paved road south for Agua Verde, the pavement ends at Km. 10 (6.2 mi).
Km. 17+ (10.5 mi) is the view to the sea way below. Photos and then turn around.

Back on Hwy. 1, soon begin the long grade down to the coast.
Km. 83 Villa del Palmar/ Danzante Resort (on Ensenada Blanca).
Km. 84+ Ligüí. Road to beach passes site of California's 3rd Spanish mission (1705-1721). Ruins washed away between 1973-2002 as flash floods widened the arroyo. Even a new monument/ cross erected before 2009 has since been washed away.

The beach is 0.9 mi from the highway. The mission was at 0.5 mi.

Km. 113.5 Highway becomes 4 lanes as it nears Loreto.
Km. 116+ Loreto Airport road, east.
Km. 117+ San Javier road, east.
Km. 119/Km. 0 Main Entrance to Loreto.

To Be Continued...

PHOTOS:




Jojoba Project. StuckSucks asked me to check out some weird zigzag crop patterns in the desert along the road out to Hwy. 1, he had seen on Google Earth. Rob said it was a failed jojoba growing project.




With only a few exceptions, kilometer markers on the major roads in Baja off great locating tools and allowing one to not need to keep doing math in the head using the odometer. This one is north from La Paz (62 miles away).







AGUA VERDE VIEWPOINT:










My truck parked by the viewpoint, running.


Goats on the grade down to Ligüí.




Isla Danzante as seen from Playa Ligüí.






For the Toyota fans!

TO BE CONTINUED...



[Edited on 8-26-2017 by David K]

I passed by Loreto and headed for Bahía Concepción for a nice camp for the afternoon and evening...





My go-to spot is La Perla, as nearby El Requesón is generally full of campers, all year. La Perla is quiet, farther from the highway to reduce the trucker noise (oh, you can still hear Jake brakes, but it is tolerable).

La Perla is easiest reached by going in the paved El Requeson access off the highway at Km. 92 (turns to dirt soon) and at the coast, go south. There is a back entrance to La Perla. It is at Km. 90.5+ and reached the original Transpeninsular road to La Paz, upon which you turn north. 0.4 mile for the full distance to camp from the highway.

There is one large family at the opposite end. I hope to sleep under the stars, but when the sun got low, I spotted one mosquito so the Coleman Instant tent was up, in a flash! The big family left before dark and the place was super quiet all night!

It was a restful night. I had a campfire and took one last swim in the bay. I only wish my wife could be with me here... She and I have had fun and wild camps here at La Perla. Last time (2015) a thunderstorm hit us after our tent was up and filled with our sleeping gear. The rain eventually came in sideways as the wind shifted. Waterfalls of water were pouring off the mountain top to the west... By dark, the rain and wind were gone, but our tent and bedding were soaked! We laugh at that time, indeed!

Coming up next, Day 12... photos of my camp in the morning and north to Mulegé then west to EX-MISION de GUADALUPE! A great OFF ROAD day trip... and ROUGH, but rewarding!!!

DAY 12 (SAT. Aug. 12, 2017)

Good Morning from Bahía Concepción!
Today, my goal was to make the trip into the mountains west of Mulegé. I had never been in there and the 1720-1795 mission of Guadalupe de Huasinapí was always an interesting story... well, to be honest, every one of the 27 missions in Baja has an interesting story!

Here is my camp location at La Perla on Saturday morning...










The beach actually faces north, looking here towards Punta Concepción which is almost across from Mulegé.


El Requesón, a sand spit that is opposite a small island.


El Coyote and a popular photo location for over 60 years.






The cover of a 1971 book.


The cover of the most used Baja book of the late 1950s to early 1970s. Photo appeared on the 1962-1970 editions.



Howard Gulick's photo taken in 1952. Compared to mine taken in 2017, at the same location of the same beach. Not much has changed over 65 years, has it?

At the south side of Mulegé, I top the gas tank off...

16.28 pesos/ liter
30.7 liters

Just beyond the entrance to Mulegé is a concrete street going west, Km. 135.5. This is the road to take for La Trinidad cave art, the rough road across to the Pacific near San Juanico, and the rough road north from it to the mission site of Guadalupe.

STAY TUNED!



[Edited on 8-28-2017 by David K]

The area on the 2010 AAA map:


The road between San José de Magdalena and Guadalupe was washed out in 2014. I checked the Guadalupe side of it when I left the mission and it is still abandoned and washed away. That was the preferred route and would have been a short cut out as I was going to Punta Chivato that evening.





Here are my GPS track maps...








Close-up at the mission site. The two camera points (Mission, Mission-2) are where I saw mission walls seen in old photos.

The square outlines are old walls that were probably terraced gardens or animal pens. The building in the cleared area may have been made to be a mission museum, as at other mission sites. It is abandoned and glass in a window was broken. The other building near the camera image 'Mission', is no longer there.

OK, the drive up...


11.1 miles from Hwy. 1, the second Trinidad junction.


Nearing the sierra... this fast looking road would soon change!




Pitaya Dulce














25.2 miles from Hwy. 1 (Mulegé). The "Ex-Misión" is 16 miles away (closer to 26 kms.).






15.5 miles north of the La Ballena junction, you have almost arrived. The road ahead here goes 0.2 miles to the washed out road junction (that had gone to San José de Magdalena) and 0.1 more to Rancho La Presa. Turning left at the Ex-Misión sign goes across the arroyo to a wide area where a gate blocks driving closer to the mission. The gate is wired closed.

PHOTOS at the mission, next...

Mission Guadalupe de Huasinapí, founded December 26, 1720

I parked my truck near the gate and walked down to the arroyo to follow it to the bottom of the mission complex. I returned to my truck on the road that the gate blocks, making a full circle.

The site is heavily grown over as well as being surrounded by barbed wire. So, this is not for the casual mission seeker but more of something for the seriously motivated ones. The road in should be a good filter to screen out the less serious. Nomad friends were last here in January 2016. I was able to include one of their photos in my book that went to print in February. Other photos I had of the mission were from the 1990s and 1950.

Walking up the arroyo from the road crossing, you discover how steep the slope is to your left (west) where the mission was established. Usually, missions are on flat areas. This was a terraced mission site.

Then, I came to see this...


A most impressive retaining wall or was it a pila (reservoir)?

I climbed up at the first chance my almost 60-year-old body could find near this wall. Barbed wire strings were at the top. Once through, I soon found this welcoming stepped walkway to this nearly 300-year-old California mission.











A 1744 report made by Padre Juan Antonio Balthasar said that Guadalupe had "the finest church in California."



In November of 1744, heavy rains caused the collapse of the church's adobe walls killing 100 Indian neophytes. A new stone and adobe mission church was built about 1750. These stone foundations are what we see today.


Looking south at the clearing and building that was possibly going to be a museum for the mission site. The road from the gate below ends here. I walk back to my truck from this clearing down that road. First, a little more looking around, a bit higher up the slope...




Bingo! This is the wall seen in Ed Vernon's Las Misiones Antiguas book, from a 1999 photo. Ed believed this was the west side of the church. If that is the case, I am standing inside the mission church here.







Leaving the site...


The road from the abandoned museum building to the gate was going to be lined with some concrete columns, the forms are along the way.


Crossing the arroyo on my way out. I take this photo looking north towards the mission area. The roof of that 'museum' building can be seen. The mission ruins are just north and northwest, uphill from it.


The sign is here to direct you to the site. There is barbed wire around it, but no other signs. Perhaps to keep cattle or goats out? Nobody lives at the site. It is a natural 'museum' to connect with California history. Photographs preserve the location and we can see very little has changed in over 50 years of photos. If you are up for a 40-mile rough drive from Mulegé, some climbing and crawling, to see California's past, then this is the place. The great majority will get their curiosity fulfilled with these photos, most likely.

ROAD LOG:
Total / Partial Miles
0.0 0.0 Hwy. 1 Mulegé, Km. 135.5 (Ice Road) Concrete street going west.
1.1 / 1.1 End pavement
2.4 / 1.3 Construction equipment yard
2.7 / 0.3 Fork. Ahead is the original road, but rocky. Left (south) is alternate, rejoins in 3.2 miles.
5.1 / 2.4 Cattle Guard
6.0 / 0.9 Alternate road junction
8.3 / 2.3 Rancho Trinidad junction, south (small sign).
11.1 / 2.8 Rancho Trinidad junction, south (big signs).
24.6 / 13.5 Rancho El Aguajito
25.0 / 0.4 La Ballena Fork. Turn north for Guadalupe. Big signs.
25.8 / 0.8 Gate (always reclose behind you)
34.1 / 8.3 Fork. Go right. Left to ranch.
34.7 / 0.6 Gate.
36.9 / 2.2 Gate.
40.0 / 3.1 Road west.
40.1 / 0.1 Gate.
40.5 / 0.4 EX-MISION de GUADALUPE sign, turn left, cross arroyo, park near gate.

Less than 1,000 feet past the Ex-Mision sign is the fork (ahead to La Presa and right (uphill) is the washed out road to San José de Magdalena.


The AAA map mileages are different from mine, about 1 mile overall... so close. Leaving Mulegé, there are some changes. The road on to San Nicolas, I think junctions at the cattle guard (Mile 5.1 on my log, 5.3 on AAA map). La Trinidad big sign junction was at Mile 11.1 for me, and 12.5 for AAA. The La Ballena/ Guadalupe junction was 25.0 for me and 25.4 for AAA, so they are closing in! The fork just past the Ex-Misión sign is at Mile 40.6 for me and 41.5 for AAA.

Coming next, a few photos of the drive back to Mulegé.





[Edited on 8-29-2017 by David K]

It would be interesting to see if anything has been done to open the road to Rancho Las Tunas which I think is on the road west you show at mile 40. Rancho Las Tunas is open to San Ignacio and is maybe 7 or 8 miles from the junction.

I think it is at marker 1 as per the almanac

Yes, I presumed the road at Mile 40.0, I called "Road west" was that road to San Ignacio... but maybe only passable on motorcycles? Those storms of 2014 really waged war on the roads built the past 10-20 years to access this back country.

Here is the road that used to go through to San José de Magdalena... I got past this washout but was halted a bit beyond, 1.0 mi from the Ex-Mision de Guadalupe sign...





Heading back towards the mission (on the other side of the palms) after turning around.

2003 Baja Almanac:



2009 Baja Almanac:



[Edited on 8-29-2017 by David K]

Heading back to Mulegé

I think this steep graded was the peninsular divide, 1,825' above sea level. Mile 21.6 (from Mulegé), about 3 miles east of El Aguajito.




For this road, you better get your ass in gear!




Looking back from where I was.

A rugged day trip, allow 4 hours each way. How long you explore the mission is your call. I was only there for an hour, I think. It was a good hour, however!

I was back to Mulegé before 6:30 pm. I had been texting with Russ out on Punta Chivato, who invited me over for dinner. I just needed to pick up some tomatoes and an onion. There is great little store in Palo Verde, practically unmarked... and he had ice for sale, too. I was at Russ's about 7:30. DONE DRIVING! (for today)

Stay tuned for DAY 13 of the 14 day trip.

[Edited on 8-28-2017 by David K]

DAY 13 (Sunday Aug. 13, 2017)

Russ and I had a nice visit. His home is in a perfect location on Shell Beach, a private home area next to Punta Chivato. His view faces south towards the entrance to Bahía Concepción.

Russ made us burritos and all was good.

I placed my cot out by his sea wall and had the stars above me. Tomorrow I would make the drive towards home so the final day would not be too stressful a day's drive.

Sunday morning, I was on my way at 9:20.
Out to Hwy. 1 at Palo Verde and turning north...
The San Borjitas cave art access road is at Km. 156





Santa Rosalia is Km. 195 (from Loreto) and here becomes Km. 0, northbound to the state border at the Eagle Monument.

Pemex fill-up at the first station northbound, on the east side, closest to the harbor: 16.28 pesos/ liter; 930 pesos; 57.13 liters; Dollars were accepted at 16.00: 1. I was about out of pesos, so in dollars, it was $58.13 (I gave the attendant $60 and the change was his tip). I traveled 340 miles since the last fill up, mostly off road. In Mulegé, I added in 30.7 liters... So, 87.13 liters = 23.2 gallons for 340 miles = 14.6 MPG. With all the dirt roads driven yesterday and the Mulegé gas station well known to not have honest pumps, I am not disappointed in the figure.

Some overall mileage notes that I scribbled down:
Santa Rosalía to Vizcaino (Bahía Tortugas jcn.) 88 miles (143 kms.)
Santa Rosalía to Paralelo 28° (Eagle) 136 miles (220 kms.)

My mileages have all been adjusted for the 3.5% slow odometer because I am using oversized tires. When compared to the Mexican kilometer posts, this correction is spot on. On roads where I have deflated the tires down to 25 psi, the odometer slows down very close to accurate. My tires are 265/75-16, about 1" taller than the stock 265/70-16 tires.

At the Eagle Monument Pemex (near Guerrero Negro), 28° Parallel of latitude and the state border, Pacific Time Zone...

I add gas at the Pemex station. Very nice personal there. A US$20 bought me 320 pesos of gas (16:00: 1). 15.88 pesos/liter. 20.1 liters.
12:54 PM became 11:54 AM!

19.6 miles north is Villa Jesus María (the final Pemex station on Hwy. 1 until El Rosario, or if using Hwy. 5, until Gonzaga Bay).

108.7 miles north is the Highway 5 junction (Laguna Chapala). It is 1:58 pm.

NEW ROADBED OPEN!
In the 2 weeks since I was last on this route, barriers blocking the new highway elevated roadbed (south of the original road) were removed and other cars were on it. During construction, these detours could very well change back.

Mile 0.0 Hwy. 1 & Hwy. 5 Junction, 1:58 pm.
Mile 0.9 Fork right onto new roadbed.
Mile 3.5 original and new roads rejoin.
Mile 5.2 off of new roadbed.
Mile 8.0 Construction camp, leave new road alignment and head for Coco's Corner.
Mile 12.9 Coco's Corner 2:36 pm
Mile 16.8 Las Arrastras 2:45 pm Rejoin new road route.
Mile 22.3 On pavement and new bridges.
Mile 23.2 Km. 167 (just north of previous pavement start).
Mile 35.5 Gonzaga Bay Pemex, 3:12 pm


Paved bridge, new section, Chapala Valley.


New section, Chapala Valley.


Can you imagine how Arturo Grosso made the first road through here, in 1955? Picks and dynamite!










Here is where the highway leaves the original route (northbound) and shoots straight to Las Arrastras, bypassing Coco's Corner.


Nearing Coco's Corner.


Here at Las Arrastras, is where the new highway returns to the original route, on the north end of the Coco's Bypass.


Old and new routes criss-cross a few times.


Gonzaga Bay, dead ahead!







Made it to Shell Island for my final rest stop and overnight of this 2-week research trip!



357 miles from Santa Rosalía and 112 miles from Laguna Chapala.





Good Night from Shell Island, Day 13.

One more day to go!







[Edited on 8-31-2017 by David K]

DAY 14 (MON. AUG. 14, 2017) Headed Home!

I had a great evening under the stars.
Unless there is wind, Shell Island is an ideal beach camp and relaxing location. It is a 4WD only kind of place either for the deep sand on the beach or the possible mud beds that surround it. It is an island and during the highest lunar tides, sea water surrounds this barrier island beach. The access is at Km. 26 (another road cuts across from Km. 25). It is 1.3 miles to the mudflats and another 0.5 to the dry sand of the beach. The island is about one mile to the south end (Bahia Santa Maria bay) and three miles to the north point (opposite Rancho Percebu campground). Camp where ever you like or as much deep sand driving you can do.


Monday Sunrise


I am packed and headed to San Felipe at 7:48 am.



In town, the car wash I have used most of the other times is open and can take me right away! Getting excess mud off the truck before going to the border can really make a crossing easy. I was once threatened to be turned back because of the mud and dirt on my truck!

Car wash (exterior only) was just $5. I always give a tip because I appreciate the job they do!

The gas station in SanFelipe (at the ejido station, just north of town) was 15.91 pesos/ liter; offered an exchange rate of 17.60 pesos/ dollar and I was good for the 300-mile drive home to north San Diego County.


There is a sand dune field about 60 miles north of San Felipe, a perfect rest stop.


Just another awesome trip and fantastic service from my Tacoma. In the 3,000 miles, I had one tire puncture that we plugged and the 5+-year-old battery died on me, in the best place possible, a block from an Auto Zone store.

I took the Toll highway to Tecate (Mex. 2-D) which avoids the city of Mexicali. The toll was 75 pesos for Mexicali South; 24 pesos at La Rumorosa; and 70 pesos at El Hongo.

I was in the border line at 1:05 pm Monday and inside the USA at 2:09 pm. I got home at 3:57 pm.

SUCCESS!

Thank you to Baja Bound Insurance for sponsoring these mapping and research trips. I now have a lot of work to do to put these miles and notes into a road guide format. I look forward to sharing my work with you all and we can help each other with some feedback at what is most useful for you to have on your Baja travels.

Knowing that there are interesting and beautiful sites just out of sight may inspire you to see more of Baja than just going back to the same great place over and over? The future map is hopefully going to be useful as well. Stay tuned!
David www.vivabaja.com

I welcome your questions and suggestions to improve this trip report!

I just edited the first page by adding a revised road log from San Ignacio to San Juanico. I will work on the maps to change any of the notes I may have had that need it.

Because this route is very popular and often in question, I added the new road log to the Road Conditions forum, as well.

It's a tough job, but somebody's got to do it, right?

Enthralled would be an understatement.
This is the next best thing to actually being there.
Wonderful writing/reporting. Un mil gracias...

Quote: Originally posted by El Burrito Grande

Enthralled would be an understatement. This is the next best thing to actually being there. Wonderful writing/reporting. Un mil gracias...

Quote: Originally posted by David K

Isla Cerralvo

Quote: Originally posted by Skipjack Joe

Bookmarked this thread. There are several months worth of travel for me in just this one trip.