BajaNomad

La Paz recs

pdxdave - 3-27-2018 at 11:15 AM

Hi all,
I'm dave from Portland, OR. new to the site here, I've been lurking for a week or so now upon booking my trip to La Paz, anyhow I'm hoping for some recs that are a bit more off the beaten track/hidden gem type places that you all might have to give specifically for La Paz and surrounding area
....I kno I kno, every gringo out there wants to be all cool and do all the most non-touristy stuff and fit in with the locals etc.
Anyways truth is I have plenty of the regular/known attractions on my list, but am looking for ideas of things that are not apparent in my search online, figured this community would have plenty of advice.

I'm looking for urban parks to explore where that one guitarist sits and plays each day, the best cevicheria, a great view of the city from above, antique store that can't be missed, beautiful drive, etc. you get my point....
would love to hear any thoughts/insights. I'm sure this thread has been made plenty of times before but I didn't see one on the first couple of pages so I figured I'd just start my own.
THX!

David K - 3-27-2018 at 11:34 AM

Welcome to Nomad! While I am not into cities, La Paz is maybe the nicest 'city' I know? Just be careful at 4-way stops, because they mostly do not!

I spent a few days with a Nomad friend who lives nearby while researching the cape region for my guide. We ate out three nights at different places, all good. Two along the bay in La Paz and one in Centenario, on the beach. Maybe he or other La Paz Nomads will provide some suggestions or the names?

I will recommend Harker's for their hamburgers!: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g150771-d77790...

Here is my TRIP #6 Report from last year that includes La Paz: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=87323

4x4abc - 3-27-2018 at 12:01 PM

you picked the wrong place, Dave.
No such things in La Paz.
Just ordinary Paceños and a few old immigrants from the north (most legal, some aren't).
However, maybe if you grab a bicycle or something similarly slow, you find find some gems to your liking.
City tries to make La Paz attractive to the wealthy crowd, but it's working somewhat. A marina for your $200 million yacht no problem.

A lonely guitar player in the park? We have no parks.

There used to be an old guy (in his 80's) who played the violin in some restaurants and sang. His play was so incredibly bad that it was already in the good category. His singing was bad too. People showered him with money, because he was so brave to play knowing he was bad.
Haven't seen him the last 5 years. He probably died.

Rent a 4x4 and just leave pavement until you get scared. There is a lot of old chit to be found. Stunning nature. Contact me if 4x4 is an option for you.

If someone advertises well kept secrets, they most likely want to sell you a condo or an overpriced boat trip.

Bottom line - La Paz is the personification of peace. Quiet, laid back - nothing happening. I like it that way.

pdxdave - 3-27-2018 at 12:13 PM

Quote: Originally posted by 4x4abc  
you picked the wrong place, Dave.
No such things in La Paz.


A lonely guitar player in the park? We have no parks

Bottom line - La Paz is the personification of peace. Quiet, laid back - nothing happening. I like it that way.

quiet laid back-nothing sounds nice. exploring the city by bike sounds like a good recommendation, I'm sure getting off the Malecon and exploring I'll find what i'm looking for in a city of over 250,000 people.
yes it's kind of silly of me to ask online for things I'm likely only going to stumble upon while wondering by happy accident, and if I need to find some green space to plop down in with my guitar I will, and La Paz will have it's lonely guitar player in the park, trouble is the only latin tune I can play is La Malagueña, I guess on repeat

4x4abc - 3-27-2018 at 12:25 PM

and La Malagueña is not well known in La Paz
if you ask the musicians that visit the restaurants on occasion for that song, you will get a blank stare

JZ - 3-27-2018 at 12:55 PM

Do a drive up to San Evaristo. 3hrs on a dirt road. One of the prettiest drives in all of Baja.

Start at 3:05 of the video in my signature to see parts of the drive. Easy drive, but rent a jeep or small p/u. My kid drove it when he was 14. Once there, pay a panga to take you 8 miles out to Isla San Fransisco. One of the most spectacular anchorages you'll ever see.

Watch the rest of the video see what the islands off of La Paz look like. You can go on a charter to most spots.

Isla San Fransisco:



Drive up:



Here's the route:





[Edited on 3-27-2018 by JZ]

[Edited on 3-28-2018 by BajaNomad]

dravnx - 3-27-2018 at 03:49 PM

Visit the Serpentarium
https://www.zonaturistica.com/en/things-to-do-and-places-to-...

Go snorkeling with the sea lions at Isla Espiritu Santo
https://indianajo.com/swimming-with-sea-lions-in-mexico-isla...

StuckSucks - 3-27-2018 at 04:04 PM

Quote: Originally posted by JZ  
Do a drive up to San Evaristo. 3hrs on a dirt road. One of the prettiest drives in all of Baja.


I second this. Spectacular scenery, remote and off the tourist radar.

Playa Tecolote, north of La Paz, is nearby, easy and infested with tourists.

pdxdave - 3-28-2018 at 11:38 AM

I plan on driving to La Paz from Cabo, and am curious if there is any reason to take the longer route hwy 1 vs. 19. Time is not really an option, just wondering if it is more scenic, or maybe more places of interest to stop along the way.....considering to stop for the night along the way to la paz via hwy 1, any recs on places would be much appreciated!

also would love recs of rental cars in Cabo....so far planning on going with BBB or cactuscar but maybe someone here has an even better rec?
Thanks for all the input thus far!



[Edited on 3-28-2018 by pdxdave]

vandenberg - 3-28-2018 at 12:15 PM

19 is for when you're in a hurry. 1 is the pretty scenic one, with lots of interesting places to stop.

chavycha - 3-28-2018 at 12:17 PM

The 1 is a pretty road and as mentioned has some nice little stops.

If you're interested in doing the San Francisco road mentioned above, get a rental with high clearance and preferably 4wd. You can get to about Punta Coyote with neither, but it gets pretty hairy thereafter.

BAJA.DESERT.RAT - 3-28-2018 at 12:39 PM

hola,

i've done the drive to la paz from los barriles many times and it's a drive through the desert type of drive.

a few years ago, my son and i went fishing out of la paz and took a flight from los angeles to the san jose airport. we arranged for a van to take us to la paz and it did the 19 along the coast which was a beautiful ride. it hooked up with hwy 1 just south of la paz and was somewhat uneventful desert drive from there.

so, i would recommend the drive to la paz on the 19.

anybody...the old hotel bogumbilla (sp?) was bought and refurbished and a palapa restaurant was added. i stayed there many times with the old owner and had a very pleasant stay each time.

afterwards on a baja site, it was noted that there were a lot of thefts from the rooms blaming the employees as they had keys for access. has this changed ? i really enjoyed their parking lot as it was walled and closed off at night with the night clerk as security and there was plenty of room for my small suv and utility trailer and i never had a problem.

any input ?

BIEN SALUD, DA RAT


David K - 3-28-2018 at 12:54 PM

The 1 is tropical, has the Tropic of Cancer museum, and mango center of San Bartolo and the old silver mines of San Antonio and El Triunfo are along the way.
The 19 has a lot of coastline with white beaches, but not next to the highway.

bajabuddha - 3-28-2018 at 01:35 PM

It's been over 20 years since I visited, but there's a hotel in Santiago that has a magical courtyard and good food (didn't stay the night, just noshed there) only a mile off Hwy 1 south of La Ribera turnoff. Used to was a hangout of some movie stars way back in The Day. Hope it's still running and still wonderful.

David K - 3-28-2018 at 03:02 PM

Quote: Originally posted by bajabuddha  
It's been over 20 years since I visited, but there's a hotel in Santiago that has a magical courtyard and good food (didn't stay the night, just noshed there) only a mile off Hwy 1 south of La Ribera turnoff. Used to was a hangout of some movie stars way back in The Day. Hope it's still running and still wonderful.


The Palomar (about 2 paved miles from Hwy. 1 in the middle of the two parts of Santiago, on the left). Photo from August 2017:


Celebrities noted for being guests here include Harrison Ford, Susan Sarandon, and Barbara Streisand.

gnukid - 3-28-2018 at 03:29 PM


Huge music scene in the La Paz area and tons of parks and impromptu events, you need to arrive and look around. Everyday there are a ton of pickup music events and many pro musicians joining in, all the greats from LA arrive here at some point and jump in so you might find Tower of Power sitting in with your favorite lead guitarist on an acoustic set for a week and other great session players.

This Saturday March 31 is an event called Blues Fest as part of yearly series of music events that branch out to more small pickup events in parks and restaurants called Original Fest La Paz. Another main event is 4/20 same location. The event is at Marea Calle Sinaloa almost at the beach in the community center where the old cement tower is. Pablo Ahuja is among the organizers and he organizes a ton of events so reach out to him to volunteer and you'll get invites, often many a week, including beach cleanups but you got to show up. Before this Saturday's event there will be a series of mural paintings in el Manglito sponsored by local eco groups and with volunteers like you. You are welcome to join. http://elcolordelamemoria.com

Neighboring cities like Todos Santos, El Triunfo, La Ventana, Los Barriles have events nightly as well with traveling musicians. They are not always announced or scheduled but you will hear if you put your ear to the ground every night. Tecolote often has pickup bands that are amazing at Palapa Azul, so good it sounds like Santana is there if you close your eyes and of course locally we have the bands like the Mexican Weirdohs who play and organize events events in the streets. Mike Oneiil is a local blues player who plays often with friends. Willy Ornelas is one of the all time great drummers and he is often found playing events and organizing huge pickup events with all the greats. Salsa scene is happening now and especially rock n roll and folk rock singer songwriters and poetry.

In addition, the dj scene is huge for more esoteric beach events with lights and art and sound. DJ Guacamole is in town now, DJ Fritz, Dj Kolor and Dj Rodrigo with Kraxy Baja Collective are always jamming out in parks like Park Cuahtemohoc in the center of town arrive and head out and you will find it.

It's a seasonal transition at the moment so many people are leaving and others arriving, obviously this is Holy Week so there are tons of events nightly.

La Miserable Mezcaleria club in el Centro is a great place to get started with singer songwriter performance. This Friday Armajeron plays no cover. Of course, Las Varitas in el Centro is the longest running most successful rock clubs so hit it up late 11-3am. Perhaps stop in to El sonido on Ramierez music store and check for flyers or ask.

Of course you can pick up great music in San Joes and in Cabo in the patio as well.

Good luck






gnukid - 3-28-2018 at 03:56 PM

Stop in to Parque Piedras Y Pájaros in el centro and you might find a performance or silence. Playa Caimancito has a performance space for artists too. Used to be Ciao Molino had folk musicians step in but I don't know if they still do. La Concha in Manglito is popular with SENIOR GRINGOS for pick up music and dancing and dominos and so forth. El Jardin Secrecto sometimes has a singer songwriter. Marisco Moyeyos and Bizmarcito often have a guitarist playing traditional music serenades. Bar Perico Marinero is the real deal for pescadors and music.

BAJA.DESERT.RAT - 3-28-2018 at 05:27 PM

Is palomar still a functioning hotel ? and same for their restaurant.

BIEN SALUD, DA RAT

David K - 3-28-2018 at 06:06 PM

My photo was taken 7 months ago, the open sign was out. The place has been in business since 1966, or about then.

BajaBlanca - 3-28-2018 at 08:57 PM

If you plug in La Paz, under trip reports and under my name, lots will come up since we spent the whole month of Feb there.

My one recommendation is to got to El Zarape, which is close to Tailhunter's. Order the NACHOS with chicken for 2 which is enough for four.

JZ - 3-28-2018 at 09:55 PM

The best sushi in Baja is at a place in Costa Baja. Really good stuff. Do not eat the sushi on the malecon.


[Edited on 4-8-2018 by JZ]

cliffh - 3-29-2018 at 07:32 AM

Took the Razors to the Palomar for lunch tues, great ride, still lots of water in arroys. and back way in to Santiago. fun trip

pdxdave - 4-5-2018 at 10:44 AM

Considering spending a night in El Triunfo and poking around the area for a day, anyone have any info about Hotel La Fortelezza there, I can find it online but has no contact info. Assuming that it's not operating currently but who knows?

gnukid - 4-5-2018 at 01:42 PM

La Fortelezza is open and Triunfo is a short drive from San Bartolo, Los Barriles, La Paz and Todos Santos. It's beautiful weather now.

I just spoke to the owners of Fortalezza and they can be reached at La Fortelezza tel. 011-52-624-182-4068

mirko - 4-6-2018 at 02:38 PM

Quote: Originally posted by 4x4abc  
and La Malagueña is not well known in La Paz
if you ask the musicians that visit the restaurants on occasion for that song, you will get a blank stare


Two Malaguenas typically. Instrumental by a Cuban, Ernesto Lecuona, well known elevator music and "Malaguena Saleroza", the one Mexincans often play. Both very nice.

gnukid - 4-6-2018 at 07:38 PM

I was just down at Engelbert Humperdinks ol place at the beach in La Paz and the bartender was recounting memories with him and singing his songs just like the Crooner...

pdxdave - 4-7-2018 at 01:00 PM

Quote: Originally posted by gnukid  
La Fortelezza is open and Triunfo is a short drive from San Bartolo, Los Barriles, La Paz and Todos Santos. It's beautiful weather now.

I just spoke to the owners of Fortalezza and they can be reached at La Fortelezza tel. 011-52-624-182-4068

awesome thx so much!

pdxdave - 4-7-2018 at 06:58 PM

Quote: Originally posted by gnukid  

Huge music scene in the La Paz area and tons of parks and impromptu events, you need to arrive and look around. Everyday there are a ton of pickup music events and many pro musicians joining in, all the greats from LA arrive here at some point and jump in so you might find Tower of Power sitting in with your favorite lead guitarist on an acoustic set for a week and other great session players.

This Saturday March 31 is an event called Blues Fest as part of yearly series of music events that branch out to more small pickup events in parks and restaurants called Original Fest La Paz. Another main event is 4/20 same location. The event is at Marea Calle Sinaloa almost at the beach in the community center where the old cement tower is. Pablo Ahuja is among the organizers and he organizes a ton of events so reach out to him to volunteer and you'll get invites, often many a week, including beach cleanups but you got to show up. Before this Saturday's event there will be a series of mural paintings in el Manglito sponsored by local eco groups and with volunteers like you. You are welcome to join. http://elcolordelamemoria.com

Neighboring cities like Todos Santos, El Triunfo, La Ventana, Los Barriles have events nightly as well with traveling musicians. They are not always announced or scheduled but you will hear if you put your ear to the ground every night. Tecolote often has pickup bands that are amazing at Palapa Azul, so good it sounds like Santana is there if you close your eyes and of course locally we have the bands like the Mexican Weirdohs who play and organize events events in the streets. Mike Oneiil is a local blues player who plays often with friends. Willy Ornelas is one of the all time great drummers and he is often found playing events and organizing huge pickup events with all the greats. Salsa scene is happening now and especially rock n roll and folk rock singer songwriters and poetry.

In addition, the dj scene is huge for more esoteric beach events with lights and art and sound. DJ Guacamole is in town now, DJ Fritz, Dj Kolor and Dj Rodrigo with Kraxy Baja Collective are always jamming out in parks like Park Cuahtemohoc in the center of town arrive and head out and you will find it.

It's a seasonal transition at the moment so many people are leaving and others arriving, obviously this is Holy Week so there are tons of events nightly.

La Miserable Mezcaleria club in el Centro is a great place to get started with singer songwriter performance. This Friday Armajeron plays no cover. Of course, Las Varitas in el Centro is the longest running most successful rock clubs so hit it up late 11-3am. Perhaps stop in to El sonido on Ramierez music store and check for flyers or ask.

Of course you can pick up great music in San Joes and in Cabo in the patio as well.

Good luck






Thx so much for all that info, really appreciated! I'll be in next week starting 4/17 and will look around for performances etc.

gnukid - 4-7-2018 at 07:27 PM

La Paz Calendar

Original Fest
https://www.facebook.com/Original-Fest-LPZ-173213259948706/

Roz in La Paz
https://www.facebook.com/rozinlapaz/

Baja Pony Express
http://www.thebajaponyexpress.com/wp/calendar-2/

Mexican Weirdohs
https://www.facebook.com/MEXICANWEIRDOHS/

Obra Negra
https://www.facebook.com/OBRANEGRAPUNKBAND/

Malnacidos
https://www.facebook.com/losmalnacidosmx/

La Marea
https://www.facebook.com/marealapaz/


JZ - 4-8-2018 at 04:08 PM

Quote: Originally posted by gnukid  
I was just down at Engelbert Humperdinks ol place at the beach in La Paz and the bartender was recounting memories with him and singing his songs just like the Crooner...


Where is it at?

gnukid - 4-8-2018 at 05:25 PM

Hotel La Posada & Beach Club

On the beach with a pool, great for brunch or sunset, good hotel with many airbnb nearby at any price. Bartender inside has been there forever and knows how to make a drink and follows instruction if you watch him make it but if you walk away it might become something else... http://blog.laposadahotel.mx

Calle Nueva Reforma y Brecha California, 23010 La Paz, Mexico

If you close your eyes you can see Mary Crosby, Engelbert Humperdinck, Lucille Ball, Desi Arnaz, Bing Crosby, John Wayne and Ava Gardner playing volleyball on the beach.




[Edited on 4-9-2018 by gnukid]