BajaNomad

Idaho Flyfishing Trip July 2018

John Harper - 8-27-2018 at 04:41 PM

After my annual Cottonwood Lakes backpacking trip for golden trout, I headed to Mammoth for three days and on to Idaho from there. Stopped off to see the Alabama Gates, built in 1911. This is the start of the original LA aqueduct. I've always been fascinated with this system.

The Alabama Gates, dated 1911. Owens River to the left side, aqueduct begins past these gates.


And there it goes, off to Los Angeles!

Fished the Upper Owens for one small rainbow on Friday, hiked to Mcleod Lake on Saturday. Landed 6 Lahontan Cutthroat trout and had the lake all to myself for about three hours. One of the LHCs was really colored out, like the big ones you see. He was probably about 12" and not skinny and silvery like the other fish. Sorry, not too good at having a camera along.

I was staying at Big (F'N Dusty) Springs campground north of Mammoth, and I could only take the dust one more day. Headed out early Sunday for a night in Elko, then on to Sun Valley on Monday. Headed north on Hwy 93 at Wells.

Wells, NV. Graveyard shifts available. EEOC Employer.


Big Lost River. Most of this water is from Silver Creek, saw lots of tiny trout here. Very hot as this is down in the valley, basically like the Owens Valley with agriculture.


Frontside of Sun Valley (Bald Mountain) Ski Resort.


This is the abandoned original ski lift at Sun Valley, up Trail Creek Road from the SV Lodge about a mile. I believe this is likely where Ernest Hemingway skied when he lived here.


Found a great free campsite up Warm Springs Road, right near the creek.

Had a real life MOUNTAIN LION chase a small animal through my campsite while eating dinner Saturday night, 7/14. I heard a screaming small animal, and saw a big cat barreling down the hill behind me. He passed me about 10 feet away and must have caught his prey, as I heard another scream a few seconds later. I had heard something up on the hillside above my camp for a couple nights before, thought it was just a deer. I was at first hesitant to continue sleeping out in the open, but I figured he already knew I was there. Those cats are big and move fast, you would not have a chance if they wanted you. He hopefully sensed I'm a cat person, either way, I was fine the next two nights under the stars. I did 16 days without a tent!!!! My entire trip from the Cottonwoods to the Sawtooths.


You can see the hillside where the mountain lion came down behind where my cot is set up. He came down the hill on the upper left of the picture, really close and exited the bushes right by my cot.


Fished all day Tuesday, first at the Big Wood river and then the PM at Warm Springs Creek. Water was high in Big Wood, access was tough, and the rock bottom looked treacherous to me, no thanks. Water was clear, but flow was so fast there was no way I could keep contact with my fly.

Big Wood River. This is Sunday at the end of the trip and water has come down quite a bit. Still, access difficult at best wherever I stopped except way up nearer to Galena Summit.


Big Wood River, again tough access and turbulent waters. The rocks are big here on the bottom, 1 1/2 to 2 feet diameter, I could easily see a snapped bone here, maybe I'm wrong.

Drove up Warm Springs Creek and found water much more my style. Access tough but I did finally manage a nice 11" wild rainbow at 3PM, was getting pretty discouraged but the fishing gods finally smiled on me.

Explored Wednesday AM, then back to Warm Springs for a later afternoon session. Quickly picked up four small wild fish in about an hour and had dozens of takes and lots of LDRs, all small fish. Fun just the same. Got hits on almost every drift of the small PA.

Thursday, Copper Basin. I finally found what I was looking for. Two guys from SV took me up to Star Hope Creek, and I hooked into two huge fish, unfortunately the first one broke me off at the tippet, but KB was nearby when I hooked it and he said it was definitely about 18". I later hooked another one close to the same size, but it was a quick LDR. We fished EF Lost Creek down by the Burma Road and I did manage to land three smaller fish in the 10" range. I also managed to lose my license, but I knew where I probably dropped it, so I had to hoof it back down the creek about 3/4 mile to find it. Luckily, it was right where I expected it.

The creeks up in Copper Basin are awesome IMHO. Open waters with some sagebrush, willows, great wade and walk fishing. No float tubes, waders, or any of that crap needed. We ran into a REAL cowboy (on a UTV!) and I asked him about bears. He said he had not seen a bear since the wolves returned. I guess they find the hibernating bears and kill them, so they move away.

We also saw a badger cross the dirt road in front of Mark's truck, how cool was that!


Star Hope Creek, where I lost two really nice fish.


East Fork Big Lost River, where I managed to land 3 smalls, and recover my lost license.


I'm in Stanley this morning (Saturday 7/14) and the drive from SV to Stanley has to be one of the most spectacular 60 miles I've ever driven. Absolutely stunning scenery. I crossed the headwaters of the Salmon River on the way and a local just told me to try Valley Creek which is just north and west of town. I'm gonna try the upper Salmon on the way back to SV this afternoon, which is about 8PM!!!


View of Sawtooth Range from Galena Summit


Upper Salmon River, the headwaters. I did fish here for a while and found nothing.


The Salmon River, a bit further toward Stanley. Also a skunk here.


Valley Creek, just west of Stanley, more beautiful water.


Got about a dozen of these up to about 9", and lost many more.

Found a bunch of shells, fresh water mussels. Look edible but I read they taste horrible.

I'm headed back up to the Copper Basin tomorrow. Try to explore, fish, and cover as much as I can before I leave. Lots of smaller creeks.


North Fork Big Lost River


Gorgeous water, but no sign of fish for me.


Wildhorse Creek, more walk and wade heaven.


Wildhorse Creek, gin clear, perfect wading, no fish.

There actually seems to be a dearth of fish up here in Copper Basin, I did not see any small fish today, and all the flyfishers I saw today had not caught a thing. I wonder if the spawning conditions are not conducive to sustainable populations??? Very strange, expected creeks with lots of smaller fish, like the Cottonwood and SF Cottonwood creeks, as well as most Sierra creeks. Very strange. There can't possibly be that much pressure on these waters, no matter the relatively easy roads to access them. Just too many places to hide and too few people. My one friend from SV only got one brookie and one whitefish on Thursday, the other one got skunked, so maybe my luck on Thursday was just a fluke? IDK, but lots of pretty water with very few fish.

I also checked out WF Trail Creek, Park Creek, Kane Creek, Summit Creek, and Trail Creek on the way back to Sun Valley, no luck at any of these. My first skunk day of the entire trip. Back to Carlsbad through Ely, NV.

Stopped at Silver Creek Preserve on the way out. Here's some photos starting from the west to the east:





It's more like a marshy slough, muddy silt bottom, mossy, almost dead still waters. I saw a few float tubers on the eastern end, but saw no action. It looks like you have to sit very still and quiet, two things I don't do well!

I think that's about it. The town of Ely, NV is a trip, and driving down HWY 93/318 is spectacular scenery. The White River Narrows is amazing, I had never heard of it and it blew me away. Be a great ride on my motorcycle.

Next year in Wyoming!

John

[Edited on 8-27-2018 by John Harper]

Paco Facullo - 8-27-2018 at 05:21 PM

Hell-of-a nice trip report that is, I''l tell ya !

Two 18'er's Wow ! And a big cat to-boot.
Looks like you had a fine trip. Thanks for taking the time to post.

wessongroup - 8-27-2018 at 05:38 PM

:):)

AKgringo - 8-27-2018 at 06:05 PM

Kudos on a great report! There is an interesting side note to the old Sun Valley ski lift, there used to be two single seat ski lifts.


One of them, built in 1939, was taken down in 1969. A few years later it was moved to Cordova Alaska, re-assembled, and is still in use today!


Here is a link; http://mteyak.org/index.html I skied it when I was working there in 1989.

Skipjack Joe - 8-27-2018 at 06:22 PM

Nice report. As you say, it's hard to believe those rivers have no fish. Unless they dry up on drought years there should be trout in there. And there is just too much water to having dried up.

At this time of year the best way to fish Silver Creek is very late in the day, between sunset and dusk. The later the better. The caddis come off at that time. You need to swing a soft hackle through the productive areas.

Bubba - 8-28-2018 at 04:04 AM

Great report, awesome pics!

fishinsteve - 8-28-2018 at 04:56 AM

Great report John thanks. I think Stanley Idaho is one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen. Funny thing about when I traveled thru Idaho on one of my trips. I actually got tired of seeing trees. Never though that would happen. It seemed the whole time I was traveling through Idaho all I could see were trees and of course the water that I may have been traveling next to at the time. Too many trees is that possible? I was so happy to see farmland again in Oregon.:biggrin: It was tough fishin when I went thru Idaho a number of years ago but the state was going thru a drought. Also the whole state seemed to be on fire. Anyhoo great report, enjoyed it.
Steve

fishinsteve - 8-28-2018 at 05:10 AM

Great report John thanks. I think Stanley Idaho is one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen. Funny thing about when I traveled thru Idaho on one of my trips. I actually got tired of seeing trees. Never though that would happen. It seemed the whole time I was traveling through Idaho all I could see were trees and of course the water that I may have been traveling next to at the time. Too many trees is that possible? I was so happy to see farmland again in Oregon.:biggrin: It was tough fishin when I went thru Idaho a number of years ago but the state was going thru a drought. Also the whole state seemed to be on fire. Anyhoo great report, enjoyed it.
Steve

John Harper - 8-28-2018 at 05:35 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Skipjack Joe  
Nice report. As you say, it's hard to believe those rivers have no fish. Unless they dry up on drought years there should be trout in there. And there is just too much water to having dried up.


IDK, maybe the water is just too clean and supports too little biomass? It was odd, because most Sierra creeks have at least small trout from spawning over the years. I know the fish they plant are fertile (unlike most of CA's fish today) so there should be some survivors over the years that populate the creeks. I really needed to spend more time on one waterway instead of trying to cover so many, but since it was my first trip I wanted to see as much of the area as possible. Now I know a bit more what to expect, next year's trip should be much more productive.

The EF Big Lost was more of a "meadow" creek, and it did seem to have a population of fish. Perhaps those scrub brush lined creeks are just not as nourishing as a grassy meadow creek? Less bugs.

Stanley was beautiful for sure. And I had the best breakfast in Stanley that I've had in a while! Clean Plate Club worthy for sure.

John

[Edited on 8-28-2018 by John Harper]

Meany - 8-28-2018 at 07:04 AM

John , Thanks for sharing with us. What a Great trip..

rancho guillermo - 8-28-2018 at 08:32 AM

John, thanks for a great report...alot of work but love the photos. I remember back in the 1970's (1976?) someone blew up the Alabama gates to get back at the LA Water Dept. Great book on the LA Aqueduct is "Rivers in The Desert" and of course the movie "Chinatown" Thanks again for sharing your trip with Nomads.

TMW - 8-28-2018 at 08:42 AM

Beautiful country, thanks for the report and great pictures. I'm not sure I would have stayed around after the cat came thru but if he had a good meal he was probably satisfied.

thebajarunner - 8-28-2018 at 08:50 AM

Great report, and the pix really set it off so well.
I am a dog person, like small cats that fit in my pocket,
but that big dude would have put me sleeping in the back seat.

But, my kind of camping
21 years in a row to Baja and every night on the cot under the stars.
Well, maybe a couple of sprints to the palapa when the raindrops started falling.

kevin_in_idaho - 8-28-2018 at 08:54 AM

Great write up. Did you fish Silver Creek? I've not tried it yet as I don't want to be overly frustrated. There are big fish there, you can see them but they are very, very, smart.

I think some of the places you fished have good fishing at different times. We've spent time up there backpacking (we live in Boise). Looks like a good trip. Copper Basin and the Big Lost should be good.

John Harper - 8-28-2018 at 11:49 AM

Quote: Originally posted by kevin_in_idaho  
Great write up. Did you fish Silver Creek? I've not tried it yet as I don't want to be overly frustrated. There are big fish there, you can see them but they are very, very, smart.


No, I did not have waders or a float tube. The bottom is quite muddy so it looks like you want to get afloat as quickly as you can or you'd slog around and stir up a lot of silt. I can see why they fish later at night (which is about 10pm up there!) and my acquaintances up there used really tiny flies, like size 20!!! That's tough on old eyes.

John

Skipjack Joe - 8-28-2018 at 04:07 PM

Silver Creek takes time to know. I usually did one week trips there and often caught nothing the first day.

Near opening day the hatches are really prolific in the mornings. Huge mats of tricos that the trout gulped en masse but it was hard to get them to take mine. Your fly is one in thousands.

In mid summer the heat is too strong and the fish start to feed at almost dark. You just hear the boils as they chase down the caddis. You swing the fly in front of their noses to make it look like a caddis pupae swimming for shore.

The best comes last - in the fall. The rains bring out the blue-winged-olives. The harder the rain the stronger the hatch. The big ones are feeding right up against the grassy banks. There's also the mahogany dun hatch in the mornings but those are more sporadic and less enjoyable.

I particularly liked the section reached by Picabo Road. Easy wading. Fish were 12"-17" as I recall.

StuckSucks - 8-28-2018 at 04:24 PM

Nice group of photos, thanks for sharing! I've been told by friends that I need to take my mountain bike up there for some epic riding. Got as close as Brian Head a couple weeks ago.

John Harper - 8-28-2018 at 05:08 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Skipjack Joe  
feeding right up against the grassy banks.


That's like the Cottonwood Lakes for goldens. Sight fishing the banks.

John

John Harper - 8-28-2018 at 05:11 PM

Quote: Originally posted by StuckSucks  
I've been told by friends that I need to take my mountain bike up there for some epic riding.


So many FS roads, all of them in great shape, you could ride for miles. I saw lots of off road bicyclists. It would be great on a dirt bike or dual sport too.

John

bajabuddha - 8-31-2018 at 01:29 PM

Wow, just wow. This bugger's as big as a nice yeller!

http://www.msn.com/en-us/sports/more-sports/idaho-angler-lan...

BornFisher - 8-31-2018 at 03:44 PM

What a great report. Beautiful pics, thanks!!
The mountain lion story was epic. Thanks for taking us along.

kevin_in_idaho - 8-31-2018 at 05:21 PM

Quote: Originally posted by John Harper  
Quote: Originally posted by kevin_in_idaho  
Great write up. Did you fish Silver Creek? I've not tried it yet as I don't want to be overly frustrated. There are big fish there, you can see them but they are very, very, smart.


No, I did not have waders or a float tube. The bottom is quite muddy so it looks like you want to get afloat as quickly as you can or you'd slog around and stir up a lot of silt. I can see why they fish later at night (which is about 10pm up there!) and my acquaintances up there used really tiny flies, like size 20!!! That's tough on old eyes.

John


A lot of places around here 20 or 22's are used a lot. The good news/bad news is that as winter approaches, the sunsets earlier and earlier and in dead of winter, daylight hours are short!

ehall - 8-31-2018 at 07:49 PM

I like the way you camp. Same as me. Nice report

Hook - 8-31-2018 at 10:54 PM

I count you very fortunate to have even seen a mountain lion, much less up close.

Have you ever fishing the Miter Basin or the Crabtree Lakes areas above the Cottonwood Lakes. In all my years of backpacking in the Sierras, that was probably the best area.

Great report. I live up in Idaho now, in the Boise area, but havent really done much fishing. Silver Creek sounds interesting. I am a bubble-fly combo guy or even small spinners in creeks.

Skipjack Joe - 9-1-2018 at 09:00 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Hook  


Great report. I live up in Idaho now, in the Boise area, but havent really done much fishing.



Hook, Did you leave Mexico?

Hook - 9-1-2018 at 12:08 PM

Still own in San Carlos, though it is for sale. My wife now works summers for BLM, on wildland fire crew support. So, we are here from mid-May to the end of October.

Marc - 9-2-2018 at 01:28 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Meany  
John , Thanks for sharing with us. What a Great trip..


Times two!

John Harper - 9-4-2018 at 01:53 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Hook  

Have you ever fishing the Miter Basin or the Crabtree Lakes areas above the Cottonwood Lakes. In all my years of backpacking in the Sierras, that was probably the best area.


No, but that area is a "bucket list" place for me. All I have to do is get my ass over New Army Pass sometime. I could also go Cottonwood Pass and just plan maybe another night out to account for some extra miles.

We always camp at the lower South Fork Lake of the Cottonwood Lakes basin, got some real nice fish this year. When my friend finally sends me the photos I'll post up a report.

John

[Edited on 9-4-2018 by John Harper]

BajaBlanca - 9-5-2018 at 12:25 PM

You are a brave soul to remain outside when the mountain lion KNEW you were there!! What if he wanted some dessert? Daaaang.

Great report with so many trees and so many rivers. What a beautiful part of the USA.