BajaNomad

Baja Virgin

ReTire - 11-14-2018 at 09:01 AM

Been lurking and reading a lot on here. Have never been to Baja. I plan on going in Jan solo with a dog to escape the short dreary, cold sunless days of W OR for a few weeks or more. Maybe as far down as Mulegé.
Seems most like the Tecate entry.

Where is a good place to stock up the truck camper? I have learned from here that crossing with a bunch of food is not recommended, along with full jerry cans.
Also where is a good place to stay the first night?

Thanks

A little bit more info would be helpful

John M - 11-14-2018 at 09:15 AM

Camping? Motel? combination of both?

If you've been watching Nomad for awhile many of your topics have been covered in one form or another.

Basically - Get a Mexican Auto Insurance Policy - it would seem that an annual, or at least a six month policy would be best. Baja Bound, Discover Baja, Lewis & Lewis - all are about the same. Baja Bound seems a favorite.

Jerry cans ought to be empty, and there isn't much need for them unless you plan to do a lot of off-highway routes. There are plenty of gasoline stations along the main highways.

There are big supermarkets in the larger towns, smaller markets are plentiful.

Tecate is a good entry point. We've never concerned ourselves with taking too much food - take what you like - the markets have plenty of food varieties but if it is something particular you wish, you may not find it.

Don't drive after darkness.

Relax and enjoy your time.

John M

ReTire - 11-14-2018 at 09:44 AM

Camping as much as possible. Coupled with some type of fishing. Probably a lot of surf fishing.
Yep, I’ve read about the insurance and fmm card. Fishing license though? Thought I read it wasn’t required unless on a boat.

I definitely plan to get off the highway to find camping and fishing. Seems most aren’t too far off the main road.

I hear you about the night driving...heck I don’t care to drive around here at night much.

bajaguy - 11-14-2018 at 09:50 AM

If you need anything special in the way of food or drinks, bring them with you.

Plenty of shopping in Ensenada to stock your camper. COSTCO, Super Wal-Mart, Calimax and Soriana

It's about 1 1/2 hours from Tecate to Ensenada, 3 hours from Ensenada to San Quintin not counting stops for fuel, shopping.

Camping next to Jardines in San Quintin, the Whale Center south of Guerrero Negro, Bahia de Los Angeles and Conception Bay, south of Mulege

ReTire - 11-14-2018 at 09:58 AM

Thanks.
I haven’t seen any posts complaining about mosquitos. Not a problem in the Winter? Probably bring bug juice just in case.

bajaguy - 11-14-2018 at 10:04 AM

We still have a few hanging around Ensenada
Quote: Originally posted by ReTire  
Thanks.
I haven’t seen any posts complaining about mosquitos. Not a problem in the Winter? Probably bring bug juice just in case.

AKgringo - 11-14-2018 at 10:25 AM

Sooner or later, storms will return to the pacific coast. Because of that, in January I would recommend you head east of the Sierras and head south through Nevada.

I-5 is the most efficient way to the border, but that is not what I am looking for when I go on a road trip with my dog! I plan on crossing the border at Mexicali this year, but I have used Algodones, and San Luis before, and prefer that to dealing with Southern California traffic!

I think a loop route that includes both Mex hwy 5, and hwy 1 would add interest to the trip. Mulege is a good stop, and in my opinion, It has changed less over the years than the rest of Baja!

Yes on having bug spray! There may or may not be mosquitos where you camp, but there are also black gnats that for me, are worse than mosquitos! If you are wearing sandals, don't forget to spray your ankles and feet.

David K - 11-14-2018 at 10:28 AM

Knowing if you have 4WD and an air pump will help us guide you to spectacular sand beaches.

The FMM you get at the border, only Tijuana has great parking in front of their building.

Tecate has one-way streets just inside Mexico and a parking area (move cones) for the INM office, but it is on the right street at the cross block, and that is a street that only turns left... so you make a big 2-block circle. You may see street parking closer. Other than that, not a big deal but you do walk through turnstiles that make you think you are leaving Mexico on foot! Just follow the arrows north, then left across the entrance to Mexico street and enter the building. INM has a small office. Bring your passport! You may be asked to walk outside to the small bank kiosk to pay for a 180-day FMM than take that back inside for final stamp.

AKgringo - 11-14-2018 at 10:34 AM

One more thought about heading down through Nevada, the gasoline and diesel prices will be considerably lower along the main routes. Even in the more remote locations the price will probably not be more than along I-5 in CA

ReTire - 11-14-2018 at 10:41 AM

I do have 4x4, air pump and plug kit. Thank you for the fmm tips!

!si! !si! I am with you on efficiency not being a high priority. I will not have anywhere I “have” to be at all. No schedule. If the weather is good, fishing ok and the people are kind where I make my first stop....I may not leave...until it’s time to come home.

Howard - 11-14-2018 at 10:59 AM

If your tentative plans is to get as far as Mulege go 10 minutes further and spend some time in Bay of Conception.

You will get some feedback here on how crowded it will be due to the annual migration of snow birds but for a little further ride it is well worth for you to decide on what I feel is one of the nicest beach areas in Baja that is easily accessible. Yes there are nicer beaches somewhere in Baja but a little more difficult to get to.

Love, peace and tacos

ReTire - 11-14-2018 at 11:08 AM

Yes! I am interested in the sea of Cortes. Bay of Conception looks nice on a map. Very protected it appears.

I believe I read in some ones signature here a quote from Jacques Cousteau “The sea of Cortes is the worlds aquarium”

I want to see that for myself. Hope the water is clear in January!

David K - 11-14-2018 at 11:11 AM

Quote: Originally posted by ReTire  
I do have 4x4, air pump and plug kit. Thank you for the fmm tips!

!si! !si! I am with you on efficiency not being a high priority. I will not have anywhere I “have” to be at all. No schedule. If the weather is good, fishing ok and the people are kind where I make my first stop....I may not leave...until it’s time to come home.


Perfect!

Keep the Vizcaino Peninsula open as a Pacific region of easy access, several, villages for supplies and gas (Punta Abreojos, Bahia Asuncion, Bahia Tortugas) plus a few smaller ones with some supplies and maybe gas (La Bocana, San Hipolito, Punta Prieta, Punta Eugenia).

Baja Blanca is at La Bocana and may be available to point you to fishing plus she has some nice rooms for rent.

Shari is at Bahia Asuncion (when she isn't doing whale tours) and has a beautiful Inn and also can point out all things to do around there. Her husband Juan may be available to take you fishing. They can provide a license. You do not need a fishing license if fishing from the shore.

I have 8 Trip Reports over on the Nomad Trip Reports forum covering most of Baja in 2017 and 2018 with photos, details, road logs, etc. So, feel free to take a look there if that helps. They were information gathering trips for a new road guide.

David K - 11-14-2018 at 11:19 AM

Quote: Originally posted by ReTire  
Yes! I am interested in the sea of Cortes. Bay of Conception looks nice on a map. Very protected it appears.

I believe I read in some ones signature here a quote from Jacques Cousteau “The sea of Cortes is the worlds aquarium”

I want to see that for myself. Hope the water is clear in January!


Bahia Concepcion is VERY popular in winter as it seems every Canadian with a motorhome stays there a month or more!
Friom February 2017:


Playa Santispac


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Playa Escondida
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Playa El Coyote




View of El Coyote on Bahia Concepcion from near the highway, above.
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Playa La Perla is the least crowded and very nice.

ReTire - 11-14-2018 at 11:24 AM

Thank you so much for all the advice. I really do appreciate it from all of you Baja veterans.

Gracias

Cyberian - 11-14-2018 at 12:44 PM

I'm no veteran, I only spent two weeks in Loreto. Things I learned-

The supermarkets are fantastic excursions! Google Translate is your friend, even if it might be a bit off sometimes. I still don't know what "cham" means, but when I asked for "fiambres de parvo" and agreed with "Cham?", I got the deli turkey slices I was after.

Mexicans seem to like lime in a lot of things. I learned to pay attention to product labels after the first parvo sandwich I made with lime mayonesa. Not necessarily bad, just...unexpected.

Tecate & Tecate Light are interchangeable with Coors & Coors Light.

Have a currency converter app loaded on your phone. It takes the sting out of spending MX1K$ on a cart full at the supermarket only to figure out that it amounted to ~US$50. The US$ goes a long way there.

I saw a lot of shore fishing going on and never saw a thing caught. Shore fishermen were exclusively gringos. Pangas on the other hand-

It probably helps if you like Mexican food. I don't. Even tried the "Best Burger in Loreto!" and it pretty much sucked. Would've been a fantastic weight loss plan if I hadn't found Modelo Negra to compensate for the calorie count

ReTire - 11-14-2018 at 03:02 PM

Ah yes! A currency converter! Good idea. Plan to convert some dollars to pesos before crossing.

Verde limon? No word for lime in Spanish...just green lemon!

2 weeks in Loreto is way more than I.

Pangas....yes! I hope to be able to fish from a few!

ReTire - 11-14-2018 at 03:06 PM

Does look a bit crowded there! Hope it doesn’t actually ‘feel’ that way.
But the scenery looks great!

bajaguy - 11-14-2018 at 03:11 PM

Use pesos, get at any bank ATM

Paco Facullo - 11-14-2018 at 04:58 PM

If you go wading in the water, have a stick to lead the way and/or, do the "shuffle". Meaning " don't take steps" as you may step on a stingray. ( Known to make grown men cry )........

David K - 11-14-2018 at 05:24 PM

It is freezing cold water (to me) in winter... Love the summer! The days are nice most of the year, a little steamy along the gulf side in August.

Go south of San Felipe and see Gonzaga Bay, L.A. Bay, Puerto San Francisquito (Beto's place) and then maybe swing over to the Pacific to Bahia Asuncion and the other places along the hook of Baja.

San Felipe and Concepcion Bay is pretty crowded with snowbirds in the winter.

Do you like photography and history... The first 18 California missions were in Baja California, which was simply called 'California' before San Diego became the 19th mission... in the new land, they called Alta California. There are 8 intact, preserved stone mission churches in Baja California built in the mid to late 1700s. You have an opportunity to visit several as they are all along main roads or 2WD graded dirt roads.

From north to south you could see 5 if you didn't go beyond Loreto:

San Borja (22 miles off the paved road)
Santa Gertrudis (23 miles from the San Francisquito/El Arco road)
San Ignacio (2 paved miles from Mex 1, in the town plaza)
Mulege
Loreto

AKgringo - 11-14-2018 at 07:51 PM

My first exposure to Bahia Conception was at Santispac in February of 1986. My kids were 10, to 16 years old, and we all thought the water temp was fine for water skiing and snorkeling without any wet suits!

My metabolism and circulation is not what it used to be, but it is still enjoyable mid winter....just for shorter periods of time!

ReTire - 11-14-2018 at 08:32 PM

So much history in Baja that I really wasn’t aware of. I think I need to get one of your books!! Cold water?

I check the weather in Mulegé once in a while. Last I read was 77 and 61. Sounds pretty good to me.

Stingrays! Really? Now that is something I have not heard about.

bajarich - 11-14-2018 at 10:20 PM

Buy pesos in advance and only use them for purchases. Learn enough Spanish to count your change and you will avoid any confusion over trying to convert pesos to dollars every time you make a purchase.

When the soldiers at the checkpoints ask you "A donde va?" it means "Where are you going?". If they ask you "A donde viene?" it means "Where are you coming from?".

Plan on gas costing you more than in the US. Carry extra, while there are more gas stations now than in the past, you may still encounter gas shortages.

Bottled, purified water is available at convience stores, grocery stores and "purificada" stores where they filter the water. Don't drink unpurified water.

Fishing from the shore does not require a license, fishing from any boat including kayaks does.

Enjoy your trip! Eat fish tacos!!






David K - 11-14-2018 at 10:47 PM

If you forget the two "a dondes" asked at the checkpoints, just point you thumb back to where you came from that morning and name it or the closet big town. Next, point ahead and name the destination or nearest town you may end up at.
The guy from Alaska thinks anything warmer than a slurpee is warm! Seriously, just the upper gulf is really cold in winter. Mulegé and south is more tropical.

DouglasP - 11-15-2018 at 06:42 AM

The advice from AK is spot on. We have traveled to and from Mulege from Boise, Idaho. We have used different routes. Jump over into Nevada and get on 95 south of Vegas. Cross at Mexicali. The hour or so shorter that nav apps show going through California get gobbled up in traffic. Pesos are your friend. Gas stops, food stops, beers stops, so much easier with pesos. Math sucks!
Get about 5 to 6,000 per ATM stop. That will hold you over for 3 to 4 days depending on fuel and cerveza consumption.










[Edited on 11-15-2018 by DouglasP]

David K - 11-15-2018 at 09:27 AM

There are no ATMs between San Felipe and Vizcaino using Gulf side roads and none between San Quintin and Guerrero Negro using Pacific-side roads (200-300 mile stretch). All my trips of 1-2 weeks long last year, I never used an ATM once (if it gobbled my visa card, I would be toast). Buy the pesos you need at a money exchange before entering Mexico. That way, if there is a problem, you won't yet be out of the United States. IF you run out of pesos before the trip is over, ATM it or use dollars, everyone in Baja takes dollars, and sometimes at a better rate than the banks give.

AKgringo - 11-15-2018 at 09:47 AM

In early March this year, I had to drive all over Calexico to find a money changer that has pesos on hand. Even Wells Fargo (my bank) told me I could exchange dollars for Euros, but they had no pesos!

In November 2016, the ATMs in Mulege, and Loretto would not dispense any pesos, and the tellers in the lobby of the banks would not accept my US dollars either!

The exchange rate was in flux at the time, and the banks were cautious. Don't wait until you need pesos to go to the bank, keep a reserve!

David K - 11-15-2018 at 10:39 AM

In Calexico, the money exchange place (on the right, a couple blocks before the border... next to an (Auto Zone?) auto parts store and across the street and corner from a Pep Boys) has never disappointed me. There are others along the street the border (Hwy. 111). The border has relocated a block or two west of the end of 111 since my last trip.

bajaguy - 11-15-2018 at 11:03 AM

Merchants can set their own rates, usually lower that the"official" or ATM rate. I have seen rates as low as 15:1 when the "official" rate or the ATM rate was 19:1

In my 12 years in Baja, ATM's are still your best bet for getting Pesos..........
Quote: Originally posted by David K  
There are no ATMs between San Felipe and Vizcaino using Gulf side roads and none between San Quintin and Guerrero Negro using Pacific-side roads (200-300 mile stretch). All my trips of 1-2 weeks long last year, I never used an ATM once (if it gobbled my visa card, I would be toast). Buy the pesos you need at a money exchange before entering Mexico. That way, if there is a problem, you won't yet be out of the United States. IF you run out of pesos before the trip is over, ATM it or use dollars, everyone in Baja takes dollars, and sometimes at a better rate than the banks give.

AKgringo - 11-15-2018 at 03:00 PM

I am in Grass Valley California right now, and needed to deposit a $300 check (at Wells Fargo). I asked for the cash in pesos, and got almost $6000, with the commission less than $20.

That, plus the leftovers from my last trip will give me options for where and when I look for more. Was that a good exchange rate? I don't care....it makes my life easier!

I travel alone with a dog in a car that can't be locked, so I don't want a lot of cash onboard while I am away from it.

ReTire - 11-15-2018 at 07:21 PM

I can get pesos from a stateside bank? Awesome.

Refreshing my Spanish now.

Yep....I see a lot of fish tacos in my future!

bajaric - 11-15-2018 at 07:40 PM

Pemex, Calimax, and most lodging will accept dollars, but I like to exchange dollars for pesos at a casa de cambio before crossing the border. Just easier than having to deal with exchange rates for you and the cashier, who most likely will not speak English. Dollars go a long way in Mexico, a few crisp C-notes will get you enough pesos for groceries, gas, beer, and camping for a week or more if you are not splurging on much. Keep some more dollars hidden in case you run out of pesos.

Surprisingly, the water on the Pacific side actually gets colder when you cross the border. The surf fishing is similar to Oregon; surf perch, sand bass, halibut, and the like. The Gulf side is warmer and drier with more exotic species like triggerfish and Corvina. Since you have time, you will be able to get pretty far south, past San Felipe and San Quintin there are plenty of magical places off the beaten track where you might find you own personal paradise and want to stay for the duration. BOLA and the Punta Santa Rosalillita environs might be worth checking out, for starters.

willardguy - 11-15-2018 at 07:57 PM

if you can....put off your trip a couple months!:coolup:

AKgringo - 11-15-2018 at 08:15 PM

Quote: Originally posted by ReTire  
I can get pesos from a stateside bank? Awesome.



There is only one branch in this area that keeps a small amount on hand. If I wanted a couple of thousand US dollars worth of pesos, they could bring them in for me given advanced notice.

It wouldn't hurt to ask your local bank if they, or another local bank keeps them on hand, and what the cost would be for the exchange.

I prefer getting my pesos at an ATM with a debit card as needed, but as I stated before, sometimes they don't work!

ReTire - 11-15-2018 at 10:15 PM

I honestly appreciate the tips from you guys who have Baja experience. You all make it sound so easy!

ehall - 11-16-2018 at 04:26 AM

Quote: Originally posted by ReTire  
I honestly appreciate the tips from you guys who have Baja experience. You all make it sound so easy!


It is easy. Lol. Relax. You will have a great time. Things are on a different pace. Manana doesn't necessarily mean tomorrow it just means not right now. Haha.

mtgoat666 - 11-16-2018 at 07:27 AM

Quote: Originally posted by DouglasP  
The advice from AK is spot on. We have traveled to and from Mulege from Boise, Idaho. We have used different routes. Jump over into Nevada and get on 95 south of Vegas. Cross at Mexicali. The hour or so shorter that nav apps show going through California get gobbled up in traffic. Pesos are your friend. Gas stops, food stops, beers stops, so much easier with pesos. Math sucks!
Get about 5 to 6,000 per ATM stop. That will hold you over for 3 to 4 days depending on fuel and cerveza consumption.


This is bad advice.
1. The I-5 route is fastest north-south route on west coast USA.
2. Do not miss seeing rte1 along the baja coast, including Ensenada, and camping amongst the rocks in Catavina.
3. The east side of baja, south of Mexicali is a barren wasteland that is butt ugly, pac coast of baja is a beautiful drive.
4. Do not listen to some of the older mr-Magoo cranks here that are afraid of Los Angeles freeway traffic, 5 miles of urban traffic in TJ and 10 miles of urban traffic in Ensenada, and some periodically slow traffic driving through the agricultural area of San Quintin. These cranks drive rvs that scare themselves, and so they are afraid of even having to make a single left turn in 2,000 miles of travel

DouglasP - 11-16-2018 at 08:00 AM

And this passes as a civil post......

David K - 11-16-2018 at 08:52 AM

ReTire, on this side of the border, just in the block or two before crossing (surface streets not the freeway in San Diego) are several money exchange businesses (Casa de Cambio). They have been great. Also, during business hours, the Coscto in Chula Vista (Palomar exit off I-5), go east to Broadway then north... has a money exchange inside... for members.

shari - 11-16-2018 at 09:30 AM

I know it is hard to believe and goes against some folks logic but the central Pacside is actually warmer than the gulf side in the winter...way warmer than BOLA, Mulege & even Loreto.

This is because our water temps stay above 70 all winter long until late March(which is when our winter begins). We try to get a swim in everyday...good for the soul! So don't be afraid to check out the Pacific side in the winter...you will be pleasantly surprised!

ehall - 11-16-2018 at 09:57 AM

Thanks Shari. I did not know that.

ReTire - 11-16-2018 at 10:00 AM

Yes. I envision some Pacific and Sea of Cortes time. Warmer than the Gulf side.? Then I need to check it out. I know I’m going to enjoy NOT having an itenerary.

So, in this day and age I have to ask.....how well do cell phones work?

BajaTed - 11-16-2018 at 11:59 AM

Every year an international group of us people that have B-days in Nov. go to a place called Muzik Mountain in the canyon above Burro beach and stay for the month. Kinda like the Burning Man of Muelege

bajaric - 11-16-2018 at 12:45 PM

I should have clarified that my statement that the water gets colder south of the border applies to Northern Baja, on the Pacific side. This is a localized phenomenon. At some point of course when you get far enough south the water warms up because you are nearing the tropics.

ReTire - 11-16-2018 at 02:13 PM

I have a B day in November!! Sounds interesting. But, my trip is in January...’this year’

Cold is relative though! That picture looks very inviting Shari!

shari - 11-16-2018 at 02:27 PM

Quote: Originally posted by ReTire  
Yes. I envision some Pacific and Sea of Cortes time. Warmer than the Gulf side.? Then I need to check it out.

So, in this day and age I have to ask.....how well do cell phones work?


Telcel works great here and we also have new high speed internet in our campground, Inn and vacation rental houses.

wilderone - 11-16-2018 at 06:12 PM

Be sure to drive out to the whale watching launch beach at Ojo de Liebre just south of Guerrero Negro. It's another 1/2 hr. or so to the lagoon once on that road - great campground - there's also a restaurant. Big sign on Mex. 1 at the turnoff.

David K - 11-16-2018 at 06:33 PM

Quote: Originally posted by wilderone  
Be sure to drive out to the whale watching launch beach at Ojo de Liebre just south of Guerrero Negro. It's another 1/2 hr. or so to the lagoon once on that road - great campground - there's also a restaurant. Big sign on Mex. 1 at the turnoff.


This is at KM 207.5, and is paved where it leaves Hwy. 1.
Remember, in Baja Sur, the kilometer markers increase northbound, the opposite of the northern state.

The Eagle Monument (state border) is KM 220.

ReTire - 11-17-2018 at 10:30 AM

his is at KM 207.5, and is paved where it leaves Hwy. 1.
Remember, in Baja Sur, the kilometer markers increase northbound, the opposite of the northern state.

Well now...that’s a handy tip!

David K - 11-17-2018 at 11:01 AM

Looks like you cut off a bit of my wording... but yes, The kilometer numbers increase as you go south, with a new KM 0 at the U.S. Border, Ensenada, San Quintin, L.A. Bay Highway, State Border.

They increase going North in Baja Sur, with a new KM 0 at Cabo San Lucas, La Paz, Cd. Insurgentes, Loreto, Santa Rosalia... and then the state border.

4x4abc - 11-17-2018 at 12:21 PM

well...









[Edited on 11-17-2018 by 4x4abc]

ReTire - 11-18-2018 at 08:08 AM

Nice info on those maps! January looks good based on those. Cooler in March though.
Ha! I need to see what the waters off Oregon look like.

jbcoug - 11-19-2018 at 10:28 PM

Retire,

I have made the full trip down Baja three times in the last four years from the Portland area. If you want to talk, PM me.

John