I spent the night on the beach, Pacific side, just north of the village Santa Rosalillita. As best as I can tell I was someplace near San Luis. This
was a long beach with two access. There was another beach to the north with another road, but the two sites were really not visible to each other. I
did see another camp over there when down on the beach.
Over night we had a rather traditional Pacific fog roll in. I had some drizzle that wet the foot of the sleeping bag and the tailgate of the 4Runner
so I lifted the gate and closed the window.
After breakfast I had an early start. I decided to continue north up the road. I talked with some surfers the day before and they said the drive up
the coast was worth it. Many beaches for camping. I made one detour to check out another beach and again it was very long with only one access.
The road to this point had been double wide, graded and graveled. After Rancho San Jose de las Palomas it became narrow, rutted, and more interesting.
I came to a "T", one way continuing up the coast, the other heading east over some hills to the main highway. Estimated distance from the "T" junction
was about 30 miles ... 20 miles to Rancho San Antonio, then another 10 miles to the highway. Keep in mind, this was in the middle of fricken no where
Baja.
I continued up the road and it became clear that Mom Nature had taken her toll. The road became very eroded. Finally I started up into the hills. I
stopped, looked at one climb, walked back, let the tires down to 15/15 (they were at 20/25), turned the hubs, and crawled up this eroded slope. From
then on it was 2-3mph until I reached San Antonio. The road climbed up one hill, then down another for at least 10 miles. Even on top of the hills
travel was slow because of rocks that were just big enough to make the ride a bear.
Finally, after taking more time than I thought, I reached San Antonio, which was just melting adobe walls. There was a large feral date grove, a huge
eucalyptus tree, and a solo olive tree. I stopped for lunch, then proceeded onward. About a mile down canyon I came to a spring, improved. This was
the first of two locations I heard least Bell's vireo, an endangered song bird. A few miles later I reached another rancho, this one occupied as
identified by the token planting of Baja geranium and the solar clothes drier, populated. Then a surprise.
I come through some trees, and what do I see. MILITARY! This is an odd place for a check point. Two guys come running to my door. Then a third, an
officer, comes out of the trees. WTF? Between my English and lack of Spanish, and their Spanish and lack of English it became clear they wanted a tiny
bit of gas for some vehicle I couldn't see. The officer wanted to load his boys up (and I mean literally boys), but I only had one seat. So, just
before getting in this officer (rank has its privileges, ya know) pulls the mag from his M-16, slides back the bolt, points the rifle into the air,
and pulls the trigger. Nothing. This make me feel good.
He jumps in "shot gun" and we drive down the canyon about 2 miles. He points off to the left and says "rancho" and I see the windmill. We pull in, and
sure enough there are another half dozen kids (with guns) and a good old HumVee with the hood up. I separate the line between my two tanks and get
them about a cup of gas. As I'm buttoning up the lines the officer takes the gas and in a few moments I hear the HumVee start up. The only thing I can
guess is they dumped in their load of gas after running out, but didn't save enough to prime the carb. I figured nobody was going to believe this
story, so I took a group shot.
Ok, back on the road I head for pavement. Boy was I glad to see asphalt again. South down Mex Uno I drive. Just as I approach the Bay of Los Angeles
turn off I hear a loud racket from under the hood ... and watch parts fly out the back and a mini van dodge to miss the debris. I then notice I lost
my power steering. Anybody who drives Baja knows there are no shoulders on Mex 1, but I was lucky and pulled the truck over.
Popping the hood I find shreaded belt everywhere. Both the power steering and AC belts are gone. I'm thinking, easy fix, right? Wrong. After picking
out the pieces and unwinding a long piece from around the fan clutch I notice the reason why my belt took a dump. For some reason the nut on the PS
idler pulley came off, as did the pulley which is now road trash. I didn't find it.
So for the next three days I arm-strong'd my truck. I was heading to yet another remote piece of Baja that afternoon, but decided it would be a better
idea to stay close to good roads. I was meeting the Fisher's the next day and needed to stage within 5 hours of Guerrero Negro. So I headed to LA Bay
and talked with Carolina about a place to stay. She sends me to a spot on the bay. This was Easter weekend so I didn't expect a solo camp, and I did
share with two other families. It was ok.
The next day I head south taking a detour to Mission San Borja (a very sad stop), coming out at Rosarito, passing along the way the second location
for the vireo. South I go to Guerrero Negro for gas, ice, and to look for a boneyard that might have my pulley. I find a boneyard and they have two
trucks. One is missing the motor, the other I didn't look. I couldn't find anybody so I left.
Fast forward two days. We are coming back from Laguna San Ignacio and stop in Guerrero Negro for fuel, lunch, and a few other things. We drive into
the boneyard. Mark and I pull up the hood on the potential donor. It's there, rusty, but there. We then go looking for bodies and find a group, one
which speaks great English. We pull the idler pulley and I notice the bearing is a bit rough. It's been on the beach too long, but I think it might
get me home. The boneyard honcho sends some guy to get more tools and a can of grease. He pries off the seal to the bearing and liberally packs the
balls with grease (I have the feeling he's done this before). Smooth, real smooth. Installed, and twenty bucks later, I am heading north with
finger-tip control.
[Edited on 4-3-2005 by Pappy Jon]David K - 3-31-2005 at 10:48 PM
Thanks for the report and great photos! I have been tempted to take that road through San Antonio... You make it sound great (if you like that sort of
road)!
Not sure where your Yubay canyon beach is... I didn't see that when I came out at Guadalupe/Remedios Bay (end of Arroyo Mesa de Yubay). But, it sure
looks like the top of Smith Island Volcano, on the horizon??
I bet you were glad to get back to Baja!Neal Johns - 3-31-2005 at 11:00 PM
What was sad about your stop at Mision San Borja?
Just north of Rancho San Antonio, the road crosses the wash. Nearby, on the edge of the wash, is a "Mini Arrastre" a foot or so in diameter. The only
other ones I have found are near Tinaja Yubay. Used for ore samples or grinding seeds??? I have never found a professional opinion.Pappy Jon - 4-1-2005 at 06:34 AM
Quote:
Originally posted by Neal Johns
What was sad about your stop at Mision San Borja?
Neal,
I was first at the Mission about 15 years ago. It was a great experience as we had access to the Mission and met the old couple living there. I have
some great photos from inside.
This visit things had changed. The chainlink fence around the Mission bothered me. Also on the east(?) side they had constructed car ports that were
full of vehicles, and a palapa just as you come in for visitors. There were kids playing soccer in front of the Mission.
The feel of the place has changed.David K - 4-1-2005 at 07:49 AM
I am glad Neal asked, I forgot to in my reply...
Did you get to see inside the mission this time, or was it locked?
As you may have read, the family that lives there has been giving tours of the mission and other area attractions for years.
Graham Mackintosh recieved shelter from the rains of '97 when he was walking to Loreto (with his burro) from Jose and his family and writes much about
them.
A new priest (2-3 years ago) at Guerrero Negro decided that since Jose is not Catholic, his family should not be allowed inside the mission and a lock
was put on the door!
Someone named Theodoro was given the key to the mission, so you have to be lucky enough to find him there to see the inside.Pappy Jon - 4-1-2005 at 10:30 AM
David,
I saw a lady come out of the mission while I was there, so it didn't appear locked. One of the soccer kids did offer to take me inside. He said he was
the grandson of the folks living there.
El Jefe - 4-1-2005 at 08:54 PM
I've been over that road from the west too, and it was a blast! Definately a low range 4x4 for a portion of the climb. We asked a local about the
crossing and he told us 2WD was OK west bound, but going east was "quatro por quatro."
I shredded my right rear tire on a sharp rock near that big eucalyptus tree.
Out near the coast when you took the right at the T, I remember a stretch going up a valley with major dusty silt. What a fun trip!baja sur - 4-4-2005 at 09:12 AM
EL Jefe, Is this you going east ?El Jefe - 4-4-2005 at 02:30 PM
Got the photo email. Yes that's me all right. Great time getting to know you baja sur!El Jefe - 4-5-2005 at 11:49 AM
trying to attach photowilderone - 4-5-2005 at 03:13 PM
I'm sorry to hear that you are disappointed with San Borja in its present state. For me, San Borja is a wonderful place. The "carports" are actually
a string of traditional palapas (cement pad), each with a small fire ring. Henry told me they constructed these about 5 years ago. Since this is
essentially the family's home, I can understand why they needed a specific place for visitors. I welcomed the shade, the view, the table and fire
ring with grill (we cooked some hot dogs with Henry and Angel). We soaked in the two hot springs; took a "shower", hiked way past the old mission
ruins, past the cattle corral, and toward a canyon valley, returning on the high road, past the cemetery. We spotted several orioles and other birds,
and observed their agriculture pursuits, and just before I left I filled my water bottles from their well. There are still missionary grapvines
growing, and they were just getting ready to plant. I had broght them many packets of vegetable seeds which I hope to follow-up on to see which, if
any, were successful. Henry went with us to see the Montevideo pictographs; we saw a new baby goat born that day, and learned that Jose's daughter was
rushed to Guerrero Negro to have a baby. Perhaps the number of people at the mission that day had something to do with a family celebration. I have
never seen more than one other visitor group at San Borja other than myself when I have visited. I think it's a very charming place to spend a night
or two, especially if the kids have time to hang around with you. However, they take care of the goats, taking them to high points to graze, and
bring them in at night so the mountain lions don't get them, and work in the field. Now there's a new baby in the family - I can hardly wait to go
back!!
