BajaNomad

Replacing Steps on Open stairs with Redwood Treads

John Harper - 9-6-2021 at 12:00 PM

I've got open stairs, indoor, with carpet surrounding the treads, which are 2" x 12" x 36" each. With carpet, they are approximately 3" thick, with the treads being 1.75" nominal for a 2 x 12 (1.75" x 11 1/14") Just crappy Douglas fir as original treads, with tack strips, etc. Fugly, fugly, fugly.

Looking at getting some 4 x 12 redwood milled down so we can replace with finished wood (I hate carpet!!!!!). I'm just wondering if I should have it milled to 2.75" since it looks like the treads sit into/on metal hangers (w/ lag screws on bottom), and the carpet on the bottom of the stairs sits below and covers the lags. So, going with 3" thick redwood may be a bit higher for the first step than if I went with 2.5" or 2.75"

My original thought was just go with 2.5" thick, but having second thoughts since once it's milled, it's done. I hope someone with some stair building experience at their Baja places or elsewhere can help. Any advice, even on using redwood, is welcome. No money spent yet, just doing some hard research now. I just thought redwood would look good.

Here's what I'm sick of, I fricking hate carpet!!!! The sooner it dies, the better as far as I'm concerned.


John

[Edited on 9-6-2021 by John Harper]

mtgoat666 - 9-6-2021 at 12:36 PM

Quote: Originally posted by John Harper  
I've got open stairs, indoor, with carpet surrounding the treads, which are 2" x 12" x 36" each. With carpet, they are approximately 3" thick, with the treads being 1.75" nominal for a 2 x 12 (1.75" x 11 1/14") Just crappy Douglas fir as original treads, with tack strips, etc. Fugly, fugly, fugly.

Looking at getting some 4 x 12 redwood milled down so we can replace with finished wood (I hate carpet!!!!!). I'm just wondering if I should have it milled to 2.75" since it looks like the treads sit into/on metal hangers (w/ lag screws on bottom), and the carpet on the bottom of the stairs sits below and covers the lags. So, going with 3" thick redwood may be a bit higher for the first step than if I went with 2.5" or 2.75"

My original thought was just go with 2.5" thick, but having second thoughts since once it's milled, it's done. I hope someone with some stair building experience at their Baja places or elsewhere can help. Any advice, even on using redwood, is welcome. No money spent yet, just doing some hard research now. I just thought redwood would look good.

Here's what I'm sick of, I fricking hate carpet!!!! The sooner it dies, the better as far as I'm concerned.


John

[Edited on 9-6-2021 by John Harper]


I would use polyurethane-finished oak, or similar hardwood to match the hardwood flooring I see in your photo.
Redwood is too soft for stair treads.
There are pre-finished stair tread hardwood boards available in flooring stores in USA, perhaps available in Mexico too.

Lee - 9-6-2021 at 01:30 PM

Have carpeting on stairs but oak under it. I wear socks inside and slipped once. Didn’t want my Lab slipping .

Rather look at fir than that crappy carpet.

BajaTed - 9-6-2021 at 01:53 PM

Our housekeeper said truck tires make better stairs. Don't forget the rebar either.

Oh this is a regular home, carry on

John Harper - 9-6-2021 at 02:25 PM

Quote: Originally posted by mtgoat666  
Quote: Originally posted by John Harper  
I've got open stairs, indoor, with carpet surrounding the treads, which are 2" x 12" x 36" each. With carpet, they are approximately 3" thick, with the treads being 1.75" nominal for a 2 x 12 (1.75" x 11 1/14") Just crappy Douglas fir as original treads, with tack strips, etc. Fugly, fugly, fugly.

Looking at getting some 4 x 12 redwood milled down so we can replace with finished wood (I hate carpet!!!!!). I'm just wondering if I should have it milled to 2.75" since it looks like the treads sit into/on metal hangers (w/ lag screws on bottom), and the carpet on the bottom of the stairs sits below and covers the lags. So, going with 3" thick redwood may be a bit higher for the first step than if I went with 2.5" or 2.75"

My original thought was just go with 2.5" thick, but having second thoughts since once it's milled, it's done. I hope someone with some stair building experience at their Baja places or elsewhere can help. Any advice, even on using redwood, is welcome. No money spent yet, just doing some hard research now. I just thought redwood would look good.

Here's what I'm sick of, I fricking hate carpet!!!! The sooner it dies, the better as far as I'm concerned.


John

[Edited on 9-6-2021 by John Harper]


I would use polyurethane-finished oak, or similar hardwood to match the hardwood flooring I see in your photo.
Redwood is too soft for stair treads.
There are pre-finished stair tread hardwood boards available in flooring stores in USA, perhaps available in Mexico too.


I thought redwood may be too soft. Thanks, I'll try a flooring outlet.

John

John Harper - 9-6-2021 at 02:32 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Lee  
Have carpeting on stairs but oak under it. I wear socks inside and slipped once. Didn’t want my Lab slipping .

Rather look at fir than that crappy carpet.


The slip factor is an issue, especially for us old farts.

I'm letting the carpet die, detest that chit.

John

[Edited on 9-6-2021 by John Harper]

John Harper - 9-6-2021 at 02:59 PM

Well, it looks like pre-made "floating stair treads" are at least $3-400 a piece and I need 11. That's the low end pricing. That's 3-4 times the cost of using redwood and having it milled for about $1000.

Now, I'm not going to live forever, maybe 30 years more. How fast would the redwood wear, provided we give it a good urethane finish?

That's been my conundrum, hate carpet, but spending $4000 on stairs that only a couple people use seems ridiculous.

I guess I can always do it again if the redwood doesn't pan out.

John

[Edited on 9-6-2021 by John Harper]

Maderita - 9-6-2021 at 03:30 PM

Redwood is quite soft. I wouldn't recommend it for heavy traffic, boots, or pet's toenails.
Douglas fir, while a "softwood" is rather hard/dense.

One option is to remove the carpet on one step, or experiment on another used/seasoned Doug fir 2"x4". Try a couple colors of oil based transparent penetrating stain finishes and coat with polyurethane. If you like the results, you could do all of the stairs. For best results, fill any nail hole with matching wood filler, use a router to bullnose the leading edge of each step, and give a light sanding.

The wood is very stiff and strong for its weight, and is also among the hardest and heaviest softwoods commercially available in North America.
https://www.wood-database.com/douglas-fir/
Common Name(s): Douglas-Fir
Scientific Name: Pseudotsuga menziesii
Distribution: Western North America
Tree Size: 200-250 ft (60-75 m) tall, 5-6 ft (1.5-2 m) trunk diameter
Average Dried Weight: 32 lbs/ft3 (510 kg/m3)
Specific Gravity (Basic, 12% MC): .45, .51
Janka Hardness: 620 lbf (2,760 N)
Modulus of Rupture: 12,500 lbf/in2 (86.2 MPa)
Elastic Modulus: 1,765,000 lbf/in2 (12.17 GPa)
Crushing Strength: 6,950 lbf/in2 (47.9 MPa)
Shrinkage: Radial: 4.5%, Tangential: 7.3%, Volumetric: 11.6%, T/R Ratio: 1.6

Maderita - 9-6-2021 at 03:59 PM

Quote: Originally posted by John Harper  
...How fast would the redwood wear, provided we give it a good urethane finish?...

If this helps: My in-laws built a house on the coast of Northern California with an intermittently used interior staircase of redwood. The urethane finish held up well for decades; still looks beautiful. It should be noted that it was top quality heartwood, back when that was available. Elderly couple, no dogs or kids, and not a high traffic path in the house. He was a woodworker and furniture re-finisher, so I can only guess that he had several coats of urethane, properly applied.

Btw, good luck finding clear heartwood redwood. Most of the redwood I see these days is mostly blonde, lacking the tannins. And with knots because it is from younger trees. Termites ignore the menu label that reads "Redwood" and eat it for dinner, jajaja.

Are you aware of stair "retreads" to cap your existing Doug fir steps? Comes with a bullnosed edge Much less expensive than replacing with solid hardwood or redwood.
https://hardwood-lumber.com/stair-parts/wood-stair-treads/

John Harper - 9-6-2021 at 04:29 PM

Maderita,

Yes, I've thought about putting some kind of veneer over the Doug Fir. Now that I realize I should use thicker wood treads after the carpet gone makes me wonder if that might be another possible solution. Adding another 1/2"-3/4" to the top of the Doug Fir might do it, with a bullnose or flat front.

The only treads that would need to be 100% wrapped would be the upper flight, where the bottom is visible.

Frankly, I keep returning to this project and then putting it off, because I still think a better solution is out there. In fact, been stalling on this for about 10 years, as the existing carpet can attest.:o

I'm very conservative about making decisions until I'm satisfied I have all possible solutions considered. Obviously, more research is needed.

Thank you!

John

[Edited on 9-6-2021 by John Harper]

John Harper - 9-6-2021 at 04:36 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Maderita  
Redwood is quite soft. I wouldn't recommend it for heavy traffic, boots, or pet's toenails.


None of those factors apply at my house. Stairs used maybe 4-6 times a day most the time. Thanks for the advice, glad I posted the question.

John

[Edited on 9-6-2021 by John Harper]

advrider - 9-6-2021 at 07:55 PM

I would just go over the existing wood with something you like, you can glue and nail it down, much less work. As you said the carpet is probably going to be close in thickness. The solid threads could always be routed into the brackets if they were to thick. Another option might be some kind of metal replacement, with the price of wood it might not be much more? You could probably even pour some concrete with a metal plate for strength?

mtgoat666 - 9-6-2021 at 09:33 PM

Quote: Originally posted by John Harper  
Well, it looks like pre-made "floating stair treads" are at least $3-400 a piece and I need 11. That's the low end pricing. That's 3-4 times the cost of using redwood and having it milled for about $1000.

Now, I'm not going to live forever, maybe 30 years more. How fast would the redwood wear, provided we give it a good urethane finish?

That's been my conundrum, hate carpet, but spending $4000 on stairs that only a couple people use seems ridiculous.

I guess I can always do it again if the redwood doesn't pan out.

John

[Edited on 9-6-2021 by John Harper]


Here are Stair treads $29 each

https://hardwood-lumber.com/red-oak-retro-fit-stair-tread/?s...

You are in Mexico, find a craftsman that does nice woodwork/wood flooring, and it will be a lot cheaper than $4,000


[Edited on 9-7-2021 by mtgoat666]

John Harper - 9-7-2021 at 04:35 AM

Quote: Originally posted by mtgoat666  
Quote: Originally posted by John Harper  
Well, it looks like pre-made "floating stair treads" are at least $3-400 a piece and I need 11. That's the low end pricing. That's 3-4 times the cost of using redwood and having it milled for about $1000.

Now, I'm not going to live forever, maybe 30 years more. How fast would the redwood wear, provided we give it a good urethane finish?

That's been my conundrum, hate carpet, but spending $4000 on stairs that only a couple people use seems ridiculous.

I guess I can always do it again if the redwood doesn't pan out.

John

[Edited on 9-6-2021 by John Harper]


Here are Stair treads $29 each

https://hardwood-lumber.com/red-oak-retro-fit-stair-tread/?s...

You are in Mexico, find a craftsman that does nice woodwork/wood flooring, and it will be a lot cheaper than $4,000


[Edited on 9-7-2021 by mtgoat666]


Actually, it's for my place in the US. Thanks, I looked at the full treads from the same supplier. I'll take a look!

I'm still not clear on how that's going to cover the existing 2x12 treads, especially the bottoms of the upper flight. I does not look like they are designed for a "floating tread" staircase. I think I'll try to call them.

I have no problem doing this myself. I got a buddy who's good, too.

John


[Edited on 9-7-2021 by John Harper]

Bob and Susan - 9-7-2021 at 07:03 AM

before you invest ANY money in this stairway you should go look at a NEW house and see what kind of stairs they use...it is 2021

your stairs are "brady bunch 1970"
they are dangerous as they are open...kids could fall thru
maybe illegal dangerous

the money you invest should increase the value of your house

mtgoat666 - 9-7-2021 at 07:14 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Bob and Susan  
before you invest ANY money in this stairway you should go look at a NEW house and see what kind of stairs they use...it is 2021

your stairs are "brady bunch 1970"
they are dangerous as they are open...kids could fall thru
maybe illegal dangerous

the money you invest should increase the value of your house


Susan,
There you go again!

John Harper - 9-7-2021 at 10:28 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Bob and Susan  
before you invest ANY money in this stairway you should go look at a NEW house and see what kind of stairs they use...it is 2021

your stairs are "brady bunch 1970"
they are dangerous as they are open...kids could fall thru
maybe illegal dangerous

the money you invest should increase the value of your house


There's lots of floor plans just like mine in our development, have not heard of anyone having issues about the stairs.

Use to have carpet downstairs, but I yanked that crap and tiled it and put some wood down. Just working my way upstairs now.

There's a reason I keep delaying this project, and revisiting, and delaying.

John

[Edited on 9-7-2021 by John Harper]

msteve1014 - 9-7-2021 at 10:43 AM

Have you thought about tile or stone? I have stairs like yours. We used 4x12s and covered with saltillos, the same as most of the house. The bottoms and backsides are covered with 1x4, and 1/4x12 fir to match the 4x12s on each side. All stained the same.
No steel brackets to see. 22 years and counting, no wear, no problems.


edit
I would post photos but it is more trouble than it is worth.

[Edited on 9-7-2021 by msteve1014]

John Harper - 9-7-2021 at 11:13 AM

Well, the retrofit treads are not designed for the stairs I have, and the Hardwood Lumber reps seemed pretty clueless. Looks like I'm gonna try the redwood treads, or maybe see if I can get some Doug Fir milled and just stain/seal that.

John

John Harper - 9-7-2021 at 11:16 AM

Quote: Originally posted by msteve1014  
Have you thought about tile or stone? I have stairs like yours. We used 4x12s and covered with saltillos, the same as most of the house. The bottoms and backsides are covered with 1x4, and 1/4x12 fir to match the 4x12s on each side. All stained the same.
No steel brackets to see. 22 years and counting, no wear, no problems.


edit
I would post photos but it is more trouble than it is worth.


I'm trying to stay with a wood motif to blend with planned upstairs wood flooring. Trying not to make this so complicated.

John

msteve1014 - 9-7-2021 at 11:18 AM

The floor at the bottom is tile, or stone. But I get it, you have a plan. Best wishes.

Maderita - 9-7-2021 at 12:46 PM

A couple other thoughts:
Perhaps select your upstairs flooring first. Then match the stair tread wood (or stain color) to that for a more homogeneous style.
There may be a good reason that you have delayed. Lumber prices have doubled/tripled during the pandemic. Contractor friends speculate that the price will come down some when the supply chain improves.

Have you checked out the higher quality vinyl planks? Looks just like wood, but impervious to spills and pet toenails. I just purchased 900 s.f. for a rental house due to the durability and ease of maintenance. I'm using a "rough sawn" look, COREtec Plus XL Enhanced. COREtec will mail some free samples for you to check it out: https://coretecfloors.com/en-us/samples

Bob and Susan - 9-7-2021 at 02:17 PM

maybe gas will drop to .1.09 a gallon too

bajafreaks - 9-7-2021 at 03:31 PM

Also keep in mind if the stair threads are a smooth finish they don't mix well with stocking feet, especially coming down. I had a client take a header and of course it was my fault...I didn't select the material.

John Harper - 9-7-2021 at 04:02 PM

Yes, I think I'll just keep my powder dry for a while. The new flooring is amazing. Ideally, I'd rip up the stuff my dad had done, and redo that and the upstairs. I tiled the downstairs and kitchen with a buddy, and it turned out amazing. Did all the baseboards and paint as well.

Like I said, I've started down this road several times and decided to just wait.

Maderita has a good idea, maybe do the stairs last and tackle the floor upstairs first.

John

SFandH - 9-7-2021 at 04:24 PM

Quote: Originally posted by John Harper  
Quote: Originally posted by Lee  
Have carpeting on stairs but oak under it. I wear socks inside and slipped once. Didn’t want my Lab slipping .

Rather look at fir than that crappy carpet.


The slip factor is an issue, especially for us old farts.

I'm letting the carpet die, detest that chit.

John

[Edited on 9-6-2021 by John Harper]


Taking a fall is why I'm thinking about putting carpet on my stairs, which are concrete with tile on top. I'd be effed up if I took a tumble.

Stairs last....good idea!

AKgringo - 9-7-2021 at 04:28 PM

I worked for a contractor for a while that did a lot of insurance restoration work. Too many times, he would get the carpet layers in before the carpentry and paint was finished, and we had to work on a finished surface instead of a bare sub-floor!

If you want to make a real, manly project out of those stair treads, I have a standing, recently bug killed Douglas fir tree that you can carve into boards! How hard could that be, and I am only about five hundred miles north of you!

John Harper - 9-7-2021 at 05:47 PM

Quote: Originally posted by AKgringo  
I worked for a contractor for a while that did a lot of insurance restoration work. Too many times, he would get the carpet layers in before the carpentry and paint was finished, and we had to work on a finished surface instead of a bare sub-floor!

If you want to make a real, manly project out of those stair treads, I have a standing, recently bug killed Douglas fir tree that you can carve into boards! How hard could that be, and I am only about five hundred miles north of you!


That is tempting! You seem like a great person to hang out with. I'm on TDY running the auto shop at another school for a while, and the wood shop is right next door!

John

[Edited on 9-8-2021 by John Harper]

John Harper - 9-7-2021 at 05:51 PM

Quote: Originally posted by SFandH  
Quote: Originally posted by John Harper  
Quote: Originally posted by Lee  
Have carpeting on stairs but oak under it. I wear socks inside and slipped once. Didn’t want my Lab slipping .

Rather look at fir than that crappy carpet.


The slip factor is an issue, especially for us old farts.

I'm letting the carpet die, detest that chit.

John

[Edited on 9-6-2021 by John Harper]


Taking a fall is why I'm thinking about putting carpet on my stairs, which are concrete with tile on top. I'd be effed up if I took a tumble.


I'm thinking go with the redwood, satin finish, with a couple of those skateboard deck strips close to the forward edges of each tread. Kind of an industrial/rustic combo. I did all my regulators in dark silver grey to have more of an industrial theme.

I have a chop saw and a router, so I can clearance the lag screws on each side and fit the treads close.

If I can rebuild my Harley engine, this can't be that hard.

It really comes down to potentially worn redwood versus definitely worn carpet. And even slightly worn redwood will never look as bad as slightly worn carpet.

John

[Edited on 9-8-2021 by John Harper]

John Harper - 9-7-2021 at 06:31 PM

This is a good Nomad topic! Feels good to just exchange ideas instead of opinions. I really appreciate all the different ideas! I really do.

I think I may finally be motivated to "chit, or get off the pot" as my dad used to say.

John

pacificobob - 9-7-2021 at 06:53 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Bob and Susan  
maybe gas will drop to .1.09 a gallon too


you apparently haven't been following lumber markets.
prices have fallen dramatically.

Maderita - 9-7-2021 at 07:07 PM

John, if you are serious about an industrial look, you could go this route:
https://www.industrialmetalsupply.com/3003-6001-aluminum-dia...

(says the hombre who had 3 dirtbikes in his living room, jajaja)

sd - 9-7-2021 at 07:16 PM

Consider Faux Teak boat material to cover existing steps
Available on Amazon

mtgoat666 - 9-7-2021 at 07:53 PM

There are “no-slip” hardwood clear finishes. Don’t know much about them, but have seen them advertised.

I have been on many boats with varnished wood stairs, they usually have strips of “no-slip tape” on the stair treads, or inset no-slip materials, usually looks pretty good if done right.

advrider - 9-7-2021 at 08:10 PM

The Redwood will hold up just fine for your life time and probably the next owner. A good finish will protect them and can be reapplied if needed.

Santiago - 9-7-2021 at 08:18 PM

Grind up walnut shells and mix in the last two coats of whatever finish you use. Gaco Deck uses them for non-slip and it's on my BOLA roof deck. A tad industrial but good for walking.
Built a basement wine cellar for a 1%-er and we gouged out the middle of each tread so it looked like a 500-year-old stairway that the monks had used and wore down the steps. Prolly not for your application but it was fun.
You have a "49er" stair, must be 100,000 of them in California built in the 60s-90s. McCuen built most of them as 4-plexes. No longer legal. Folks have slipped walking up, leg shoots thru the riser and snaps in two. Always a clean break I've been told. No space greater than 4" now. We remodel them by putting in 4" thick treads to make code. Glue two of your 2" treads together and lower the Simpson stair clips 2" and you should be good. A 4" glue-up tread made out of anything will span 36" so redwood is fine. U2U me if you need a So Cal specialty mill though sounds like you have one.

John Harper - 9-8-2021 at 05:13 AM

Okay, I realized I have leftover tile for the downstairs. I think I will do the mid-landings with tile to tie in with the existing floor. I think I have just enough left.

Goat's idea of the non-slip tape is what I was thinking, they make them specifically for stair treads.

I have some walnut shells for polishing pistol brass, would that be fine enough?

John

eastmeetswest - 9-8-2021 at 10:43 AM

I am chiming in to add to your confusion. I live on the Westcoast of British Columbia. Fir and cedar is everywhere. Why do you say "ugly douglas fir"? I love Douglas fir. With a proper finish on it, it is gorgeous. It will patina and oxidize with time and exposure to some sun and will take on a beautiful amber colour. Cedar (or redwood) are generally considered too soft for flooring but are often used for outside decks because of their weather resistance.

It is all personal taste, but I would sand and refinish the Douglas fir slabs. Cover them with a clear floor finish. Use a satin finish to reduce the slipper factor. If you want the wood to stay the light colour that it has been sanded, then use a water based floor finish. If you want it to oxidize and get a warmer more orange colour, then you will need to use an oil based finish. Install the no slip strips on the outside of the tread and you are good to go. If you are really worried about the 4 inch rule, then you can install a 'facing strip under the front of the tread usually with a small offset from the front edge of the tread.

Another two cents worth of advice for you

[Edited on 9-8-2021 by eastmeetswest]

John Harper - 9-8-2021 at 02:48 PM

Quote: Originally posted by eastmeetswest  
I am chiming in to add to your confusion. I live on the Westcoast of British Columbia. Fir and cedar is everywhere. Why do you say "ugly douglas fir"? I love Douglas fir. With a proper finish on it, it is gorgeous. It will patina and oxidize with time and exposure to some sun and will take on a beautiful amber colour. Cedar (or redwood) are generally considered too soft for flooring but are often used for outside decks because of their weather resistance.

It is all personal taste, but I would sand and refinish the Douglas fir slabs. Cover them with a clear floor finish. Use a satin finish to reduce the slipper factor. If you want the wood to stay the light colour that it has been sanded, then use a water based floor finish. If you want it to oxidize and get a warmer more orange colour, then you will need to use an oil based finish. Install the no slip strips on the outside of the tread and you are good to go. If you are really worried about the 4 inch rule, then you can install a 'facing strip under the front of the tread usually with a small offset from the front edge of the tread.

Another two cents worth of advice for you

[Edited on 9-8-2021 by eastmeetswest]


The existing treads are just 1.75" thick, roughly cut Douglas Fir. I have nothing against Douglas fir, but these treads have tack strips and painted white. To remove them, sand, and stain still leaves me with 1.75" treads which I feel will look out of scale. I may look into using Douglas fir, but there is a local redwood outlet that was my first visit.

I have yet to spend a penny, so nothing is written in stone. I may do some research on using Douglas fir.

I am not prejudiced against Douglas fir. Fir Lives Matter!

Not worried about the 4" rule, whoever buys the house after I die can deal with it.

John

[Edited on 9-8-2021 by John Harper]

eastmeetswest - 9-8-2021 at 03:15 PM

In British Columbia, fir is accepted as a much stronger wood structurally. Cedar tends to lack much structural strength and tends to wear easier. If you use redwood make sure that it is dried to avoid shrinkage and checking. The fir that you have will be well air dried.

John Harper - 9-8-2021 at 04:19 PM

Quote: Originally posted by eastmeetswest  
In British Columbia, fir is accepted as a much stronger wood structurally. Cedar tends to lack much structural strength and tends to wear easier. If you use redwood make sure that it is dried to avoid shrinkage and checking. The fir that you have will be well air dried.


I have no reason to use redwood. It's just the only wood I asked about and then found out I could get it milled. I guess I need to ask if they can mill Doug fir. Like I said, I'm just doing some hard research. I'm not dead set on any particular wood (except the $400 each treads, that's a deal killer) and I have no issues with stained and sealed wood of any kind.

I just recall redwood looking good on outside decks and fences, so I figured it might work. I'm an auto and motorcycle guy, not a carpenter, although I do know how to use almost all hand power tools, welders, and auto shop equipment.

I think the existing treads are just going to look goofy being so thin. Having thicker stairs will approximate the thickness of the carpet wrap.

I'm even thinking 2.5" or 2.75" rather than 3" but I need to do some more examination of thicknesses, as the carpet is severely worn in the center.

Thank you so much for your perspective, I wondered about using relatively inexpensive Douglas fir, but my first voyage was to a redwood place.

John

mtgoat666 - 9-8-2021 at 04:30 PM

If worried about slipping, maybe use teak for tread area, with oil finish.

motoged - 9-8-2021 at 04:30 PM

Quote: Originally posted by advrider  
The Redwood will hold up just fine for your life time and probably the next owner. A good finish will protect them and can be reapplied if needed.


I fully agree. Op's first idea was redwood....stick with it and its patina later will warm your heart.

Some years ago (1975) I stayed in Westport, California at a two story hotel called Cobweb Palace: several rooms upstairs and bar downstairs. The bar was an original from late 1800's and was made from redwood.....lovely bartop profiles worn in by elbows over the years.

John Harper - 9-8-2021 at 06:25 PM

I'm going to check out the suggestion about Douglas fir, before I make any firm decisions. I'm really stoked I posted this up, because I've learned a lot more than I expected. That's always good. Thanks to all.

As a despicable, lowlife, taxpayer burdening, high school teacher, I don't get paid until the end of the month, so plenty of time for more information.

advrider's comment did warm my heart. And motoged's added comments.

John


[Edited on 9-9-2021 by John Harper]

advrider - 9-8-2021 at 07:21 PM

Another option is bug killed pine, I've been using it on projects and it has a blue tint and cool look. It's a soft wood but there is a lot of it out there. Several small mills in my Northern California area if your looking for prices?

John Harper - 9-8-2021 at 07:36 PM

Quote: Originally posted by mtgoat666  
If worried about slipping, maybe use teak for tread area, with oil finish.


I think your idea about the grip strips is excellent.

John

John Harper - 9-13-2021 at 06:02 AM

Update 9/12/21

Got carpet off one tread and the mid landings to see what we're dealing with. We decided to go with fake wood tile on mid landings and use it as well for the upstairs landing/hallway and one of the bathrooms. Also looks like the existing tread is 1.5" Douglas fir. With carpet tack strip, padding and carpet adds another 1/2" so I'm thinking get the Douglas fir milled to 2" now.

Also have the idea to integrate some Mexican tiles into the vertical faces of the landings.

Looks like 150 sq ft of wood tiling strips and 33 feet of milled lumber, plus all the supplies needed to install and we'll have a plan ready to execute.

John

John Harper - 9-15-2021 at 01:23 PM

Tile bought, delivered, and stacked upstairs. Wood ordered for stairs. Going to look at Mexican tiles on Saturday. Buddy at the house this week laying the tile while I'm at school. Stair treads will be the last thing we do, most likely, as they will take some precision cutting.

John

advrider - 9-15-2021 at 03:12 PM

Pictures when its done would be cool.

thebajarunner - 9-15-2021 at 04:34 PM

Trex...
Sorry I am chiming in late
Just moved to Arizona since I knew Newsom would prevail
Love that 2.5% maximum state income tax and the $3 gas

We had Trex for our very large wraparound porch in Central California, also the steps. It comes with a fake would grain that is not slick.

And it will never rot or get soft.

John Harper - 9-16-2021 at 11:01 AM

Quote: Originally posted by advrider  
Pictures when its done would be cool.


Absolutely! Thanks to all for their advice.

John

John Harper - 9-22-2021 at 05:06 PM

Okay, tile almost done, here's the first landing with colored tiles.


I figured I'd do all the tile, baseboards, and paint. We can pull each tread individually at leisure. I think the hardest parts almost done.

John

advrider - 9-22-2021 at 05:50 PM

Good choice, looks good.

AKgringo - 3-8-2022 at 04:02 PM

Quote: Originally posted by AKgringo  


If you want to make a real, manly project out of those stair treads, I have a standing, recently bug killed Douglas fir tree that you can carve into boards! How hard could that be, and I am only about five hundred miles north of you!



In an ironic turn of events, I wound up cutting that fir tree, and one other into 8' 3" logs which a neighbor milled into 2 1/2" x 12" planks. The color, and grain came out very good.

My nephew is going to re-deck a flat bed equipment trailer with them, and I will ask him to take pictures of the completed project.

[Edited on 3-8-2022 by AKgringo]

surfhat - 3-9-2022 at 04:09 PM

Straight grain knot-free Douglas fir is a fine hardwood.

I made some exterior doors out of it years ago adnnthey were beautiful. Just check the prices. haha

It compares price wise with other hardwoods like oak and cherry and mahogany. Alder when stained can look like mahogany and is quite reasonable per board foot.

Redwood can be a bit soft with out a durable finish but it is a looker when finished.

It sounds like you went to J and J's Lumber in Sorrento Valley. They are a quality supplier. Thanks for keeping us abreast of how your project is coming along, neighbor John. [Leucadia]



surfhat - 3-11-2022 at 04:52 PM

Straight grained knot-free fir is at least as hard as mahogany and mahogany doesn't have a problem with being called a hardwood.

Of course, fir that is not straight grained with knots is softer. It is all in how the fir is milled and choosing the best boards. Straight grained fir's prices reflect the quality of fir and there are several cheaper cuts of fir that are softer.