BajaNomad

3-4 days in Baja Norte: recommendations for camping?

Jeremynolan94 - 11-11-2022 at 09:55 AM

Hi all,

New to the forum. My dad and I had a few nights booked at Guadalupe Canyon Hot Springs over Thanksgiving break, but we were recently informed that they are closed due to damages from flooding over the summer and won't be open until after the new year. We don't want to scrap our plans quite yet, so I'd like to get some suggestions for a 4-day camping itinerary in Baja Norte and Sonora. I have a new Jeep Wrangler so we can certainly get off the beaten track quite a bit if needed. I also speak Spanish and have Sentri, but this will only be my second camping trip south of the border. I previously did a solo camping trip to Guadalupe Canyon and out past Santa Clara del Golfo and have been itching to get back ever since.

One thought I had would be to spend a night near Laguna Hanson, either in the park or on a dirt road overlooking Laguna Salada. Then a night down along the western edge of Laguna Salada or perhaps further south past the abandoned olive groves. Any other thoughts on cool places to consider? I thought that a night on the gulf could be cool too east of Santa Clara del Golfo. Also, are there any security concerns that we should be aware of on the dirt roads up around Laguna Hanson or around northern Baja right now outside of the cities?

Thank you all for any of your suggestions. Looking forward to exploring all that Baja has to offer!

Ateo - 11-11-2022 at 10:01 AM

The campground at San Pedro Martir is pretty nice. Close to the observatory and hiking trails and a grand view of the Sea of Cortez/San Felipe.

David K - 11-11-2022 at 11:56 AM

If you don't need services or facilities, you can camp almost anywhere. Just take a dirt road to an interesting area... Desert palm canyons, lonely beaches, old mines, missions...
Use my website's maps and photos to plan where to go.
Welcome to Nomad!
My site: www.vivabaja.com

mtgoat666 - 11-11-2022 at 12:22 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Jeremynolan94  
Hi all,

New to the forum. My dad and I had a few nights booked at Guadalupe Canyon Hot Springs over Thanksgiving break, but we were recently informed that they are closed due to damages from flooding over the summer and won't be open until after the new year. We don't want to scrap our plans quite yet, so I'd like to get some suggestions for a 4-day camping itinerary in Baja Norte and Sonora. I have a new Jeep Wrangler so we can certainly get off the beaten track quite a bit if needed. I also speak Spanish and have Sentri, but this will only be my second camping trip south of the border. I previously did a solo camping trip to Guadalupe Canyon and out past Santa Clara del Golfo and have been itching to get back ever since.

One thought I had would be to spend a night near Laguna Hanson, either in the park or on a dirt road overlooking Laguna Salada. Then a night down along the western edge of Laguna Salada or perhaps further south past the abandoned olive groves. Any other thoughts on cool places to consider? I thought that a night on the gulf could be cool too east of Santa Clara del Golfo. Also, are there any security concerns that we should be aware of on the dirt roads up around Laguna Hanson or around northern Baja right now outside of the cities?

Thank you all for any of your suggestions. Looking forward to exploring all that Baja has to offer!


3-4 days, I would recommend just camping at one spot. SPM is great. Laguna Hansen area is nice, but not as nice as SPM. You might want to avoid the mountains if rain forecast, in case of rain go to the desert, Catavina is great, and LA Bay. Desert around San Felipe is OK, but not as good as further south.

Maderita - 11-11-2022 at 01:20 PM

Cañón de Guadalupe is open for hiking. There are numerous good areas to camp in the desert to the before entering the canyon, to the south. Rock formations with unusual weathering from an aesthetic backdrop and hide your vehicles from eyesight. Turn south on sandy tracks before reaching the rock cliffs.

The Laguna Hanson area at 5,000' may have some nice days with chilly nights. Expect temperatures at night to dip below freezing this time of year. The Parque Nacional camping can be busy and noisy on holidays and weekends. There have been a few serious incidents at the lake; it's not the most secure location. My recommendations for safe & enjoyable camping on the Sierra de Juárez plateau are:

Rancho Alamar - the Vizcarra family welcomes visitors. Located east of Laguna Hanson in a drier climate near the edge of the escarpment.
https://www.facebook.com/gerardovizcarrarivera

Rancho Sauzalito - Jorge Marquez does some organic farming in this tranquil mountain setting. Located north of Laguna Hanson a few miles, and east of the main Laguna Hanson road a few miles. It is at the headwaters of the north fork of Cañón de Guadalupe.
https://www.facebook.com/elsauzalitoresort

Rancho El Topo - the Sandoval family welcomes visitors. A working cattle ranch with a long history in the sierra. Though some tourism provides cash to keep things going and alfalfa for the horses. Camp where you like under the big Jeffrey pines. 100 pesos ($5.25) per adult per night. There is a rustic cafe where basic ranch type meals can be purchased on weekends. Horseback riding available on weekends, by arrangement. Outdoor rockclimbing wall on a 30' granite cliff with artificial holds. Hike at El Topo or at nearby Cañón del Tajo. A few 4x4 trails for some offroad fun. https://www.facebook.com/RanchoElTopoSierraDeJuarez

It is rather late in the season for the Sierra de San Pedro Mártir. At that high elevation, nights will be below freezing, and a winter storm can bring snow and park closure. The park has already closed once due to snow, in October, then reopened.

David K - 11-11-2022 at 01:23 PM

Great post Maderita... OK if I share this on my VivaBaja Facbook group?

Maderita - 11-11-2022 at 01:43 PM

David, certainly. Thanks for asking. Should you want more detailed info, including accommodations and various activities, I can provide it.

Maderita - 11-11-2022 at 02:23 PM

Cañón de Guadalupe - some suggestions for dispersed / primitive camping just outside the canyon. 4x4 recommended due to sandy arroyos.

bajaric - 11-11-2022 at 02:30 PM

There is no easy way to get to Laguna Salada from Laguna Hanson, unless you have wings, and as noted this time of year it is freezing cold up in the mountains. Good time for a little desert exploration east of the divide --

matthew_mangus - 11-11-2022 at 03:30 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Maderita  


The Laguna Hanson area... There have been a few serious incidents at the lake; it's not the most secure location.


Would you mind expanding on this? I am headed down to watch the B1K next week and was planning on camping for a night up near Laguna Hanson.

Jeremynolan94 - 11-11-2022 at 04:07 PM

Thank you all so far for the input and suggestions. I'm going to go by my dad's place later this evening and we'll sit down and sift through them all. I'm particularly interested in the ranches mentioned by Maderita as well as the dispersed camping options along Laguna Salada south of Guadalupe Canyon.

Maderita - 11-11-2022 at 04:39 PM

Quote: Originally posted by matthew_mangus  
Quote: Originally posted by Maderita  


The Laguna Hanson area... There have been a few serious incidents at the lake; it's not the most secure location.


Would you mind expanding on this? I am headed down to watch the B1K next week and was planning on camping for a night up near Laguna Hanson.


You're statistically rather safe given the number of visitors to the Parque Nacional and the relatively few known incidents. The odds are probably something like 99.998% safe.

Personally, I don't like camping amidst a crowd or within eyesight or earshot of others. Being the lone sitting duck while camped near Laguna Hanson would be vulnerable and an easy target. Better to camp at one of the several wonderful ranches in the area.

Here is some of the history that I am aware of:
There were two armed robberies at Laguna Hanson in 2018. Vehicles and valuables stolen.
Then another armed robbery on the road to the north a few days later, different perpetrator. The bandido blocked the road with a large rock, then robbed the driver at gunpoint.
In 2021 there was a shooting on the road south of Laguna Hanson. That murder may have been road-rage or drug related.
In 1996 a gringo couple were robbed at Laguna Hanson, a man was hit in the head with a rifle butt and carjacked.
Also 1996, an armed robbery at the climbers' base camp 15 miles north of Laguna Hanson. Warning shot by rifle fired, no injury.
April 2022, a local prominent rancher, Jose Dukes, was kidnapped on the road north of Laguna Hanson. The family paid the ransom, but he was killed. Not tourist related; he had refused to allow illicit growing on his land. The motive was retaliation and for the ransom money.

That route through the Sierra de Juárez is a corridor for narcotraficantes to run drugs while avoiding checkpoints on paved highways. There is also illicit marihuana growing near water sources.

Maderita - 11-11-2022 at 04:49 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Jeremynolan94  
Thank you all so far for the input and suggestions. I'm going to go by my dad's place later this evening and we'll sit down and sift through them all. I'm particularly interested in the ranches mentioned by Maderita as well as the dispersed camping options along Laguna Salada south of Guadalupe Canyon.


De nada Jeremy. Send a U2U message if you need more info on those areas. There are some very interesting side trips for your Jeep or short hikes.

advrider - 11-11-2022 at 09:00 PM

I would agree with camping in the lower elevations. I've been across Laguna Hansen in the snow before, not fun. Very cold temps overnight up high this time of year.

wilderone - 11-12-2022 at 08:18 AM

Why not just head to San Felipe and check out the many beach camps. Take some toys, fishing poles. When is the shrimp festival? If you miss it, go to the marina and buy some fresh shrimp for your campside extravaganza. Go as far as Hwy 1 and make a loop, coming back through Ruta de Vino wine tasting and exit Tecate.

eguillermo - 11-15-2022 at 03:46 PM

Curious about your comment maderita, with which I totally agree: "Personally, I don't like camping amidst a crowd or within eyesight or earshot of others."

Does that mean you seek out solo no-gringo camping? That's what I generally do: look for barely-used roads and see if they lead to campable areas that are out of earshot of the pavement and eyeshot of anyone else, ranches included. Once or twice I have run into vehicles on these kinds of roads, and so far they have never been mala gente -- just nice rancher types who say "como no?" about whether it's OK for me to pick a spot to camp.

That said, I don't think I would ever do this much north of Catavina, nor in any area that felt "off" for any reason. It might be a type of "magical thinking," but I have reasoned that if you get a) far enough from other gringo campsites or areas of concentration and b) far enough from any town, even small ones, then you can feel pretty safe. The basic assumption is that gringos attract thieves, but that mala gente would only go looking for gringos in high-percentage, known areas of congregation.

There are no guarantees either way -- I know stories of nice gringos who got robbed while parked a softball throw from other nice gringos on both sides. But personally I'm not going to trade the quiet sounds of the night for second-hand gringo noise unless there's a clear and likely-to-be-present danger.

AKgringo - 11-15-2022 at 06:08 PM

My dog and I agree with your camping style!

Maderita - 11-16-2022 at 03:08 AM

Quote: Originally posted by eguillermo  
Curious about your comment maderita, with which I totally agree: "Personally, I don't like camping amidst a crowd or within eyesight or earshot of others."

Does that mean you seek out solo no-gringo camping? That's what I generally do: look for barely-used roads and see if they lead to campable areas that are out of earshot of the pavement and eyeshot of anyone else, ranches included...


eguillermo,
More or less, you understand my approach to camping, whether in Baja or the USA. But, it's not a "no-gringo" aversion. Substitute that for "no-people". Sometimes I'm doing a group camp. But when I'm solo or with a few friends, I'm looking for privacy and tranquility. If I can't set up the solar shower in the open, then it is just too crowded.

Rather than seek out tourist camps (yuck, gag, vomit), I tend to navigate by topography. Such as, sighting an interesting cliff formation, distant beach, or mountain and head that direction. Then I start looking for a faint dirt road or tire tracks. When it forks, I take the "road less traveled". If it turns into 4WD or up a sandy arroyo, so much the better. I've even been known to sweep tire tracks behind, to ensure 0% chance of thieves and bandidos. You won't find me carrying those plastic MaxTrax recovery board gizmos, but you might find a broom in my truck, jajaja

With regard to ranches, I enjoy meeting the hard working people of the land. Any money that I give for camping or other services will go to a good cause - keeping the ranch going, feed for the animals, clothes for the niños, and gasoline for the old Chevy/Ford pickup.
Ranches are generally secure, gated or fenced, and the dueño knows the safety issues on and around his land. The owner will also guard my vehicle when I go off hiking or climbing for a day or more. He will also be a source of local knowledge for any nearby places of interest, which may not be on any maps or published.

An interesting phenomena: I've been particularly annoyed many times when I camp on a deserted stretch of beach, not a soul within eyesight. Only to have numerous vehicles show up and set up within spitting distance. Perhaps gringos look for "safety in numbers". And Mexicans don't seem to mind crowds, or "mi campsite es su campsite". WTF, there is a mile of beach and they think it's perfectly okay to set up next to my rig? Without asking, or so much as a "hello" or "hola"! ...end of late night rant

wilderone - 11-16-2022 at 09:53 AM

Maderita - yes, the rancho personal experience is unique and rewarding. I have done that in Yucatan as well. I ask, where is a safe place to camp, and they reply that I can stay with them.

eguillermo - 11-16-2022 at 11:42 AM

"vehicles show up and set up within spitting distance" -- unfortunately, this seems to be a thing. I've got some friends who tell a great story about backpacking in the Moroccan desert on their honeymoon trip and finding the perfect private little canyon to camp in, only to have a super-friendly solo guy plop a tent right next to theirs. Apparently no hint, comment, nor request could get rid of the guy! :D

I've had the same thing backpacking in the Sierras. Some people just don't seem to "get" the value of solitude.

Jeremynolan94 - 11-24-2022 at 02:37 PM

Hi all,

My dad and I made it back after two nights down south. We had to cut our trip short as I caught the flu the day before leaving, but by Sunday I was feeling good enough to hit the road. It was not nearly enough time! We're already planning our next trip back.

Per Maderita's recommendation, we spent our first night at Rancho El Topo. We had a roaring fire that night, which was great as things froze solid (including my rooftop shower!). The next morning we meandered south along some of the washes and up along a ridge-line. Afterwards, we headed back to Rumorosa for lunch and then dipped down to Laguna Salada along the high road towards Guadalupe Canyon.

The road after the olive orchard into Guadalupe Canyon was significantly worse than when I last visited in January; I don't think you could make it there any longer in a Subaru or smaller AWD vehicle. Remnants of palm trees were all the way down to the olive farm, and the washes were much thicker with sand and rocky debris. We used low range in a few spots to make it easier. Still, once we got there Fernando hooked us up with the site La Cueva and we had the entire place to ourselves. We explored the canyon the following morning up to some of the higher waterfalls. It was completely different than before; I'd estimate they lost around 30-50% of the palms in the September 17th flash flood they had. We then packed up and headed further south, scouting for future campsites and searching for rock art. The areas south of GC are definitely places I'd like to spend more time. We took the lakebed back which was smooth and dry. The wait at Tecate was only 40 minutes so we enjoyed dinner there before crossing back.

I'm sure I'll be back for recommendations in the future, as I've certainly caught the Baja bug!



David K - 11-24-2022 at 02:52 PM

Thank you for the report ☺️!
Baja calls you back, again and again...