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Author: Subject: Peeling paint problem...
mulege marv
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[*] posted on 9-25-2005 at 04:39 AM
one solution


laha , you can never cure it, its the salt. so cover it up with laha. this wall had the same problem

[Edited on 9-25-2005 by mulege marv]

[Edited on 9-25-2005 by mulege marv]




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mulege marv
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[*] posted on 9-25-2005 at 04:47 AM
i hate it


this 50kb thing on pics is a pain !



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Bob and Susan
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[*] posted on 9-25-2005 at 07:02 AM


Salt?YUK!!!

Laha is similar to hot roofing tar?doesn?t hold paint well.

Hydro Block Sealer
$150
5 Gallons

http://store.endurosealstore.com/index.html

Above or Below Ground use.
All concrete block must be clean, no paint or sealers.
Accepts paint or stucco

Chemicals?yes?
Pay to Play!!!




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dono
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[*] posted on 9-25-2005 at 07:33 AM


Pompano, I live on the beach north of los Barriles and I use elastomeric paint outside and inside. my guest house is going on ten years and no problems, the main house is about 3 yrs old and went through hurricane Marty with nary a paint problem. It costs a little more, but is usually guarnteed for 7 yrs.
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[*] posted on 9-25-2005 at 09:29 AM


Pompano, I think the problem originates from moisture entering the blocks from the soil. The only way to avoid this is to waterproof the footing before the blocks are laid, and also waterproof any area that will be backfilled and come in contact with soil. Topical solutions don't work, just paint again. With time this moisture will also disintergrate the blocks. Builders in Loreto are starting to be aware of this and useing waterproofing. You still see this problem in all the old buildings.
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[*] posted on 9-25-2005 at 09:32 AM


Oop's I wasn't loged in. It's me with the last post, not Annon.
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Diver
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[*] posted on 9-25-2005 at 09:52 AM


Phil has it right.
Without having waterproofed the footer, the footer/wall will wick moisture and salt up the wall with each morning's dew. A color stucco mix applied with a bonding agent will work for much longer but will probably not be permanent. Maybe tape a line on the wall, scrape below the line, apply a liquid penetrating sealer/bonding agent, then apply some pre-colored stucco mix with a trowel or heavy brush. When it starts peeling in a few to 10 years, you can use the same method for patching.
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sad.gif posted on 9-25-2005 at 09:52 AM
pealing paint


We have 3 original buildings here at the Iguana Inn in Loreto. The oldest was built in the late 50's the newer ones in the early 60's. Needless to say they did not seal the foundation.
The floors are stone and believe me when I say we do not need a tide chart, all we have to do is look at the floor, or slip on it to know it's up.
We are constantly scraping, sealing , plastering and painting. We have used every product know to man.
What works best for us, (and by best I mean it will last in the dry season about 6-7 months) is scrape down to the block or brick, apply Sellador in 3 to 1 concetration, let it dry completely, then plaster, then sellador again, dry and paint.
We are able to do this process in our sleep but the walls always look freshly painted.
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bajaden
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[*] posted on 9-26-2005 at 10:55 PM


Plastic, Pompano, Plastic. Its the only way to go. Or just tear the wall down. I guess I'm not very helpful.
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Phil S
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[*] posted on 9-27-2005 at 07:53 AM


Pompano. Your comment "guess we shouldn't have used "beach sand"!!!! Had to chuckle with that one. Hee hee hee!!! Were you serious with that comment?
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Big Al
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[*] posted on 9-27-2005 at 08:44 AM
Paint


A common cause of peeling on surfaces composed of mortar, brick, building block or concrete is efflorescence, where soluble salts are present. When dissolved by water, they are carried to the surface and remain after the water has evaporated. These salts can push paint away from the surface and peeling results. Efflorescence occurs on brick walls of new construction. A common building practice is to treat new brick or concrete with muriatic acid, rinsing with water to clean away excess mortar. Rinsing removes only those salts on or near the surface. After painting, salts remaining within the bricks will absorb the moisture and travel to the surface, causing peeling. Peeling can also occur when alkyd or oil paint is applied over unetched concrete. Alkyd resins that come in contact with an alkaline surface form a soap film between the concrete surface and the coating, called saponification. This will cause softness and loss of adhesion of the alkyd coating.

Solution:

If efflorescence is evident, it must be removed before repainting. First, remove all flaking or chalking paint from the damaged area by wire brushing or sandblasting. If necessary, try applying a solution of 5% muriatic acid or undiluted vinegar. Rinse with clean water. Fill all cracks with masonry patching compound, latex concrete patch, or caulking compound. If the surface is very porous, apply an alkali-resistant primer or block filler. Cover with latex house paint. To prevent recurrence of efflorescence on interior walls, the exterior walls should be sealed. NOTE: Extraneous water sources must be removed before painting (e.g. migration at ground level, often caused by poor drainage).
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tehag
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[*] posted on 9-27-2005 at 03:55 PM
paint


Salitre is the name of the condition, and it is from unsealed costruction at and below ground level. I have tried many things and as yet have had no success at all. The very expensive elastomeric lasted a little longer than regular paint but only because it peeled off in much larger pieces. I think it's either live with it or start over. The laja may last quite a while, but it can outlast the wall its on, and when it goes there is a real mess. Nothing will stick permanently to the crystalizing salt that wicks up your walls. NOTHING!
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Cincodemayo
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[*] posted on 9-27-2005 at 04:47 PM


Plants and pots...



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