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Loreto's natural beauty rivals tourist amenities
http://www.insidebayarea.com/travel/ci_3089776
Robert A. Dunton
10/05/2005
LORETO, BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR, Mexico - After we clocked 2,500 miles crisscrossing the Baja Peninsula, one town stood out: Loreto. Having slept through
much of the bigger-is-better development of past decades, this fishing village in the Mexican desert has retained its rustic charm.
Activities abound: Kayaking and fishing in the Sea of Cortez. Exploring historic missions. Diving with sea lions and manta rays in Loreto's National
Marine Park.
With the more sustainable approach to tourism in vogue these days, many of Loreto's natural attractions may survive its imminent growth.
Loreto is one of five destinations under the thumb of FONATUR, Mexico's national tourism development agency. The others are Cancun, Ixtapa, Huatulco
and Los Cabos.
"The goal is to develop Loreto into a tourist project that doesn't repeat the mistakes of Cancun and Cabo," said Peter Maxwell, director of FONATUR in
Loreto. "Our intention is not to be another Cabo, rather to develop a unique Loreto with more options."
I learned what he meant firsthand on a requisite stop in Cabo San Lucas, about 360 miles south of Loreto, a six-hour drive. Cabo has become a tousled
mish-mash of insulated resorts and decaying infrastructure where much of its original allure has faded.
"The Loreto project actually started 25 years ago," Maxwell said. "However, budgets and political priorities had left the area on the sidelines for
much of that time, with more emphasis on the established destinations. The Mexican government and FONATUR were already committed with previous heavy
investment in the area, and since tourism, especially sustainable tourism, is a national priority, it seemed obvious to finish the Loreto project."
On a recent visit, my girlfriend, Priscilla, and I decided to explore Loreto's natural wonders while staying at one of FONATUR's newer resorts, Camino
Real, in the development of Nopol. When the airport van pulled off Mexico 1 5 miles south of Loreto, it was clear that Nopol was still in its infancy
despite breaking ground in 1976. Though its gracious meridians hosted palm trees and bougainvillea (part of the "heavy investment" Maxwell had
mentioned), the streets were lined with acres of undeveloped lots, a few scattered homes and an 18-hole golf course. Images of an early coastal Palm
Springs or Scottsdale sprang to mind.
Though Camino Real is surrounded by a golf course, palm trees and Zen-like cactus gardens, it is an oasis of civilization in an otherwise unaltered
landscape. Waking early our first morning, we watched the sun cast a lavender glow over the desert. Calm water lapped on the beach while flocks of
pelicans fished offshore. Sea lions swam near the resort's small lagoon, and pilot whales spouted on the horizon.
So far, the low-impact approach to development seemed to be working. But what were Loreto's plans for the sea - both in promoting and protecting it?
"Puerto Escondido (a marina development 10 miles south of Loreto) will be one of the key 'steps' in the Escalera Nautica program, another national
priority for the Vicente Fox administration," Maxwell said.
The Escalera Nautica, "Nautical Ladder" or "Nautical Steps," is a government-backed program to develop 22 marinas around the Baja peninsula so boaters
will always be within a day's journey of a marina.
Within 20 miles of Loreto lie the islands of Monserrate, Catalina, Coronado, Danzante and Carmen. To preserve the surrounding sea, marine life and
islands, Loreto's National Marine Park was founded in 1996. At 1,282 square miles, the park stretches from the north side of Coronado Island to the
south end of Catalina Island, and places restrictions on commercial fishing and development on the islands.
After breakfast, we decided to explore the Marine Park and strolled 50 yards to a beachfront dive shack owned by Arturo's Sportfishing. Thirty minutes
later, a blue-and-white panga (an open-bow fishing boat) pulled up on the sandy beach, Baja's version of door-to-door service.
Our guide, Victor Vargas, had a sturdy frame, an easy smile and air of comfort around the water. As we motored out, he described his encounters from
more than 1,000 dives in the Sea of Cortez: a school of shy hammerhead sharks, collections of mantas, groups of sea lions, whales and marlin viewed
from below. He told tales of kayak excursions from Loreto to La Paz, camping on islands and living off the sea.
Thirty minutes later, we were hugging the dramatic shoreline of Coronado Island. Spires of lava rock polished smooth by the sea jutted out of the
water. Stunning stone formations melded into the burnt-sienna
Victor and I strapped on masks and tanks and dove around Piedra Blanca, "white rock," named for its year-round "snow cover" courtesy of the local
pelicans and sea gulls. We glided among schools of yellow- and-black barberfish. Large sea scallops were anchored on the rock face next to
multicolored starfish and sea stars, anemones and gorgonian fans.
After a 45-minute dive, we boated around the island. The rocky coast gave way to white sand and Caribbean blue water. We pulled up next to three
palm-draped palapas that provided shade on an expansive beach. A pair of red and yellow kayaks rested on the sand along with six people.
Priscilla and I took a hike on an annotated nature trail, and were stunned at the vast array of plants that thrived in the harsh desert climate. We
snorkeled at a nearby reef, helped a beached puffer fish find its way back to the sea, then flopped onto the sand for a nap in the mild, springtime
sun.
As we traveled back to our hotel, we asked Victor if he could take us into town. Priscilla had never seen Loreto, eaten a fish taco in Baja, nor
explored a mission. From the boat I pointed toward the landmark tower of Misin Nuestra Seora de Loreto, the first mission in the Californias, just as
a pilot whale blew a puff of water near shore.
Loreto's mission is the cornerstone of the town's historic center. It is surrounded by a history museum, plaza, city hall and the colonial-style
Posada de las Flores hotel. As we explored, I guided Priscilla toward my favorite taco stand for lunch: McLulu's. Owner Lourdes "Lulu" Armendriz was
on hand with a generous smile and a wide variety of fish tacos, chorizo burritos and other tasty fare.
We shopped at the boutiques that lined a long walkway shaded beneath arches of sculpted ficus trees. Casa de la Abuela, a store located in a
200-year-old adobe house, overflowed with hand-embroidered shirts, fresh vanilla extract, leather goods, brightly painted ceramics, dried puffer fish
and shells. Outside, we passed a sign declaring the plaza the Silver Desert, alluding to the half-dozen stores full of handcrafted silver.
Ready to return to Nopol, we hired a taxi. The battered Ford station wagon smelled mildly of gas and had an LED-flashing stereo playing upbeat '70s
music just shy of loud. As we made the 5-mile trip down Mexico 1, we cracked the windows and watched dusk envelop the desert.
Was this desert slated for condos? Would high-rise hotels line the shore and pollute the waters? The Mexican government has already done much to
preserve Loreto's surrounding environment. If FONATUR stays true to its commitment of sustainable development, there's a good chance the area's charm
will survive its planned growth. Developed wisely, its charms might even be enhanced.
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bajajudy
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Where in the heck is Nopol?
This guys didnt even know where he was....jeez!
Do you know Vande?
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Anonymous
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FONATUR has a commitment? Yah..sure.
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vandenberg
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Judy
He must be talking about Nopolo, now trying to be renamed Loreto Bay. However still Nopolo on the signs. Lots of gibberish in that report. Been here
13 years, and never seen Sea lions in the lagoon, nor pilot whales in the distance. Seen plenty of sealife,like sealions,whales of all kinds,
different types of porpoises, but by boat, seldom from shore.
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Keri
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Registered: 10-31-2002
Location: La Mision, Baja Norte
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Mood: muy contento
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Guess he never heard of
LORETO BAY. Now that's funny!!!!!!!.k
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wilderone
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Dunton is a freelance writer based in San Diego. The article appeared in the Denver Post -- I would bet commissioned by the LoretoBay people -- and
masked as a general travel article. "After we clocked 2,500 miles crisscrossing the Baja Peninsula, one town stood out: Loreto." The "story" sounds
like an advertisement.
And I got another invitation to a sales presentation last month - was being held in Del Mar at an expensive restaurant. So the hype and sales
presentations, continue from all fronts. The invitation that I got states that "Phase 1" has sold out - like they're selling like hotcakes. 250 out
of 5,000. Yeah - better hurry.
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