Bajaboy
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Registered: 10-9-2003
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A Hike in Sierra Agua Verde, On the Missionaries Path
Here's an interesting trip report that I found online:
http://www.mexicodesconocido.com.mx/english/deportes/terrest...
Zac
Following the steps of explorers and missionaries who made the first trails in Baja California, M?xico desconocido?s expedition team headed on the
same direction first on foot, then on bikes, and finally on kayaks.
The goal of this adventure was to follow the steps of those famous old explorers of Baja California, although we were much better equipped than they
were.
The huge amount of pearls in the bay of La Paz proved to be irresistible for Hern?n Cort?s and his sailors, who first stepped on Baja California on
May 3, 1535. Three ships with approximately 500 men landed here with the intention of staying two years until several obstacles, including the
hostility of the Peric?es and Guaycuras, forced them to leave this land. In 1596, Sebasti?n Vizca?no sailed along the western coastline and thanks to
this he was able to make the first map of Baja California, which was used by the Jesuits for the next two hundred years. In 1683, Father Kino founded
the Mission of San Bruno, the first of twenty missions across the land.
For historical, logistical, and climatic reasons we decided to start the expedition in the southern part of the peninsula. The trip was done in three
stages; the first one (this article) was done on foot, the second on mountain bikes, and the third in sea kayaks.
Someone who knew the region told us about the route the Jesuit missionaries used to take from La Paz to Loreto, and we started planning the trip in
order to rediscover this road.
With the help of old maps, INEGI maps, and old Jesuit texts we located a hamlet called Primera Agua, which is where the trail coming from La Paz ends.
Our hike started at this place.
We had to make many calls from La Paz?s radio station to find a muleteer who could get us some donkeys and who knew the road. We usually called around
6 p.m., the time when fishermen from San Evaristo talk to each other to say how many fish they have caught. We finally contacted Nicol?s, who agreed
to meet us in Primera Agua the following afternoon. The Centro Comercial Californiano sponsored us by supplying most of our food, and with the help of
Tim Means?s Baja Expeditions we packed our food in plastic boxes and tied them on the donkeys. The first day finally arrived; we packed the 12 boxes
on Tim?s pickup, and after driving four hours on a dusty dirt road constantly hitting our heads, we reached Primera Agua: several wooden houses with
cardboard roofs and a small garden was all that was there, aside from a few goats. ?They?re coming from Monterrey, Nuevo Le?n to buy our goats,? they
said. Their goats are their only source of income.
That day we started hiking on the trail of the Jesuit missionaries. The muleteers, Nicol?s and his helper Juan M?ndez, walked in front with the
donkeys and were followed by John, an American geologist and avid hiker, Remo, an American contractor working in Todos Santos, Eugenia, the only woman
who dared to challenge the blistering sun, and finally Alfredo and I, M?xico desconocido?s reporters, who always stayed behind so that we could take
the best photos.
At first the path was easy to follow, since locals use it whenever they go looking for firewood or when they drive their animals; slowly, however, the
path began to disappear and we ended up walking in open fields. The shade of plants and cacti did not protect us from the sun, and we carried on
tripping on red rocks until we reached a stream that strangely enough had water. The donkeys were not used to such hard work and often fell on the
ground. The food here and during the rest of the trip was quite simple: tuna fish sandwiches and an apple. We could not afford to bring other food,
because we needed all available space to carry water.
There was really nothing that could tell us we were on the missionaries? road, but when we saw the maps we realized that, in fact, it was the easiest
route since it had few ups and downs.
Sunburned, we reached the San Francisco mesa where we found deer footprints. The unloaded donkeys ran off looking for food, while we sat on the ground
arguing about who would cook dinner.
We were constantly worried about the water, since the 60 liters carried by the donkeys seemed to disappear quite fast.
The next morning we picked up our gear as fast as we could in order to take advantage of the morning?s fresh air, because a ten-hour walk under the
scorching sun in wild country is serious business.
We passed next to a cave and followed the road until we reached the Kakiwi plains, which are 5 km long from east to west and 4.5 km from north to
south. The towns around these plains were abandoned over three years ago. What used to be a fertile place is now a dry and desolate lake. We left the
last abandoned town next to the lake and were greeted by the breeze of the Sea of Cort?s, which we were able to enjoy at an altitude of 600 meters. We
saw Los Dolores ranch, the place we wanted to reach, beneath us to the north.
The road zigzagging along the sierra took us to ?Los Burros? oasis. Nicol?s introduced us to the people ? apparently his distant relatives ? who were
sitting amongst the date palm trees near a water spring.
We struggled with the donkeys so they would not lie on the ground, and before we knew it, the afternoon had arrived. The steps we took on the loose
sand and dry streams were slow. We knew we were close since we saw the ruins of Los Dolores ranch from high up in the mountains. Finally at dark, we
reached the ranch?s fence. Lucio, Nicol?s?s friend, welcomed us in a house built in the last century.
We continued looking for the Jesuits? missions and walked 3 km west to reach the Mission of Dolores, founded in 1721 by Father Guill?n, who started
the first road to La Paz. Back then people traveling from Loreto to the bay stopped here to rest. In 1737, Fathers Lambert, Hostell, and Bernhart
reestablished the mission to the west, next to La Pasi?n stream. At this place the priests organized their visits to other missions in the region,
including La Concepci?n, La Sant?sima Trinidad, La Redenci?n, and La Resurrecci?n. However, in 1768, when the Mission of Los Dolores had reached a
population of 458, the Spanish crown ordered the Jesuits to leave this and all other missions.
We found the ruins of the church, which included three walls on a hill next to a stream, the orchard that now belongs to Lucio?s family, and a cave
that must have been used by the missionaries as a storage room or wine cellar. If this place is still an oasis after three years without rain, it must
have been a paradise when the Jesuits lived here.
Starting in Los Dolores ranch we realized that our friend Nicol?s did not know the way. He did not tell us, but after walking in opposite directions
several times, it was obvious he could not find the route. First we walked next to a hill 2 km inland and then next to place where the waves break
until we finally found the path. It was difficult walking next to the sea; the donkeys were terrified of the water and tried to find the road amongst
the cacti. In the end, all of us had to pull the donkeys forward.
The path was in such bad shape that not even a 4X4 truck could drive on it. However, in spite of back pains and blisters in our toes, it was a relief
for us. Now we were heading in the right direction. After walking 28 km in a straight line from Los Dolores, we decided to stop and set up camp.
Sleeping was never a problem, but every time we woke up Romeo, Eugenia, and even I complained about our different ailments caused by so much physical
strain.
Tying our gear to the donkeys took us an hour, so we decided to start earlier. We were able to see an old two-story house far away, and knew we were
close to Tambabiche. People greeted us warmly and while we drank coffee in one of the cardboard houses around a large house, folks told us that Se?or
Donaciano had moved with his family to Tambabiche after finding and selling a huge pearl. There he built the very large two-story house in order to
keep searching for more pearls.
Do?a Epifania, the oldest woman in town and the last to live in Donaciano?s house, proudly showed us her jewels: a couple of earrings and a ring made
of a gray pearl. Without a doubt, it was a well-kept treasure.
Everyone here is a distant relative of the man who founded the town. We walked around town to learn more of its history and found Juan Manuel alias
?el Diablo?, a robust man with a limp who told us about the fishing and how he ended up in this place. With a hoarse voice he said, ?my wife is Do?a
Epifania?s daughter and I used to live in San Fulano ranch. I would ride my horse and be here in a day. They didn?t like me very much, but I
insisted.? We were lucky to meet him since we could not trust Nicol?s anymore. For a good price, ?el Diablo? agreed to come with us. We found shelter
in Punta Prieta very close to Tambabiche, and Nicol?s and his helper cooked a delicious porgy fish on the fire.
Our new guide met us on the road at about 10 a.m. To reach Agua Verde we had to walk along many mountains and four large ?puertos? (the highest part
of a hill). ?El Diablo?, who did not want to walk back, would show us the path that went up the puerto and would then go back to his panga (small
boat). Whenever we crossed a hill we would meet him again and the same scene would be repeated; that way we passed by Carrizalito, San Francisco, and
San Fulano ranch until we reached Agua Verde after forcing the donkeys to walk next to a cliff.
After San Fulano ranch we walked two hours until we arrived in Agua Verde. From there on, we followed the missionaries? road on mountain bikes, but
that story will be in another article in this magazine.
After walking 90 km in five days we found that the path used by the missionaries had been largely erased from history, but that it could easily be
rebuilt to connect the missions once again.
Source: M?xico desconocido # 273 / November 1999
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