Mike Humfreville
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Rocks and Roses on the Road to Matomi - A Previous Trip
Rocks and Roses on the Road to Matomi
The main objective of the trip was the Matomi waterfall and pools, and it was there that we headed on Sunday morning. The road started smooth and
fast. There were 6 vehicles (I was a passenger), all 4wd. The road splits off the highway heading SW, a wide, graded dirt path, and we all hit the
40-MPH mark and stayed there for quite a while. Six spirals of dust, thrown from twenty-four churning wheels, rose into the blue San Felipe sky. Miles
to the west the San Pedro Martir, Baja's northern backbone, was absolutely covered with snow and ice from the mountaintops to their midpoints along
the wide horizon. The Verbena and Baja lilies carpeted the sides of the roadway and spread across the desert floor as far as we could see.
After forty or so miles the road narrowed and we dropped to lower terrain. River rocks and boulders littered the narrow path. Going was slow and we
inched over the heavy run-offs crossing our route. The sun was full; the air was thin and cool.
The earth, shaded in many pockets by the scrub, was dark, damp to the touch. There were tracks from much desert wildlife. We stopped alongside a
deserted, dilapidated desert ranch, buildings collapsing onto each other. The road grew worse as we continued south.
We dropped, lower, into the canyon that led to Matomi. - five miles to go. We had ascended, over the course of the trip, from sea level to 3500 feet.
It was about 1:30 in the afternoon. We climbed the broad valley, nearing Matomi, with towering red and golden-earthed mountains on both sides, lined
with layers of sedimentary rock. How far back in time could we trace these layers? What ancient peoples had gathered at the tinajas here?
We arrived at Matomi, pleased to have reached our objective after so many rough-hewn hours in the bolder-strewn desert. We shut off engines and let
dust settle and then climbed down, past a small unattended rancho, to the free-flowing stream, palms spotting the creekbed in the distance. Matomi; a
picture of isolation; a single, lonely rancho at the end of a box canyon in Baja's central desert; water flowing, spilling down the rocky stream-bed,
over granite boulders the size of houses and falling, finally, to a deep pond where it settled briefly, before flowing further and spreading into the
desert below, into lower parts of the canyon.
We collected, like tiny moss-growths, on the sides of the boulders overlooking the waterfall and pond. David's children, Sarah and Chris,
ever-exuberant, coaxed David into the green pool. Suddenly there's a murmur and Wild Bill and Ellen appear out of nowhere. Then, Rodrigo, the
cattle-tender who occupies the ranch is there. We visit and begin to worry about time - its 3:30 and we have at least 3 hours of hard, hard driving to
return to the highway, along another, even worse route where we will intersect the San Felipe-Puertecitos road around K-55. Many of us are marking
waypoints on our GPSs.
The trip back is a rough one - through the White Rock Narrows Neal Johns had warned us about, granite slabs stabbing hundreds of feet into the evening
sky. It struck me what a wonderful day this was. Why? I asked myself. I realized that I had never traveled like this before. We are 6 vehicles, each
itself a sturdy, capable, Baja-proven vehicle. Each is driven by a likewise Baja-proven driver, equally capable. Equipment for each vehicle on this
trip was individually selected with care and experience - tools, jacks, extra spares, hoses & belts, tire pumps. Each of us is completely
self-sustained. Together we form a mighty force. I am filled with awe and respect. I am more than proud to be amongst these strong people. It occurs
to me that we might be one form of modern-day equivalent of the Indians who were here before us. We, too, have withstood the desert over time.
None to soon we burst with a force from the desert scrub, back onto the highway, at sea level, exactly where David's GPS waypoint indicated we would
be. We sped north, hungry and tired. We rallied later that evening around El Camote's campfire, fed by cactus and mesquite we had harvested from the
desert during the final hours of our trip. Cervesas were opened. A bottle of Cuervo Gold appeared. Zach opened one of his now-renowned "Ballena"
mega-beers. We relaxed, warmed by the fire and the company of our fellow-warriors, each a desert rock or rose, alike, sharing, now, at this moment,
another great experience. We joke, swap stories and talk so late into the night that some of us will regret it tomorrow.
We departed slowly and individually over the next day or two, each returning to our responsibilities. I left El Camote and Mexray mid-morning on
Tuesday. The Eagles CD picked up where it had stopped when I turned off the engine 5 days before. I pulled onto the road north to Mexicali:
"?peaceful, easy feeling" slapped my speaker felt, followed by "The Girl from Yesterday". I kept punching Replay half the way to the border. I spent
the two hours between San Felipe and Mexicali reflecting back over the too-short days of this trip, more than happy to have spent this time with what
were becoming close friends. It seems we grow so much closer amongst friends when we share risks and passions with each other. These carry us beyond
the bounds of average friendships.
As I passed slowly through the border at Mexicali, nearing the head of the line and alongside the yellow concrete barricades, an old woman, dressed in
filthy rags, extended a paper cup and a box of "chicles" toward me. Her eyes were cast down; so were mine as I pushed a bill into the cup. She
insisted I take, in return, a small packet of plastic-wrapped red-coated gum. Somewhere, here, our eyes met. Hers were tired and worn down, but
strong; she was a survivor, over perhaps 70 years, of a hard life. I could see that strength, could almost touch it, almost add it to mine and share
some of mine with her. She smiled as I received her gum and we thanked each other. It seems I was destined to share my trip with strong people, some
in unexpected forms. The old woman's gaze affected me so that I only wanted to turn around and stay longer where my heart was, where it belonged.
Maybe I could hook up with Zach, somewhere south of San Felipe. But I had my responsibilities waiting at home and work and held the straight line,
dead-ahead and on the proper course.
When I settled in that night, on my "little Baja" acreage on a hill in the Santa Clara River Valley, I walked, alone for a minute, and just stood
gazing upward into the heavens. The same stars were there that we had been peering into from El Camote's ranch in a desert to the south. I had a
strong sensation that some of those stars had left the sky and fallen to earth. Somehow I knew they had. I could sense that they were scattered there,
along the byways and highways, the villages and towns and cities of California. They were shining there, from Stockton all the way south to San Diego,
and many points in between.
[Edited on 2-7-2004 by Mike Humfreville]
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Sonora Wind
Nomad
Posts: 228
Registered: 9-25-2003
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That was nice
Sitting at my computer here at the salt mine. Reading your story was like that first sip of wine in the evening. Thanks for the drink.
[Edited on 2-7-2004 by Sonora Wind]
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tunaeater
Senior Nomad
Posts: 615
Registered: 9-3-2003
Location: Chula Vista, CA
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Mike your writtings are so good as if I was there on the trip with you. It took me along for the journey as I was reading. I can't wait until next
weekend for round 2. Are you going to be there. It would be so nice to meet you. Thanks for all the stories and trip reports....Paul
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Edie H.
Junior Nomad
Posts: 26
Registered: 11-3-2002
Location: Yorba Linda, Ca
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I sure wish I could put into words the experiences you so eloquently are able to write down with such ease. You've described exactly what I've
experienced in our travels throughout Baja and mainland Mexico.....the people, the land, the flora, the sea.....even the feeling of riding along with
other "experienced" drivers traveling in remote places that the normal Baja traveler never sees.
Thanks Mike for sharing your wonderful gifts with us. Now I can't wait until next weekend to experience your writings in person... Hope you plan on
being there too!
May the wind at your back not be your own.
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Mike Humfreville
Super Nomad
Posts: 1148
Registered: 8-26-2003
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Mary Ann and I will be there. Maybe we will convince the boys to join us.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64540
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Online
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Mike, thank you for taking a black and white picture and turning it into living color! I can provide those silly little details like who, what, when,
where, and why... But, you my friend provide a glorious novel of words that feeds our wonderlust and makes our brain smile!
  
I still say it's you Baja loving people that make things great... The Nomad and old Amigo board did the greatest thing in bringing us together,
on-line... Then those that take the next step and join us in person become even more fullfilled.
I hope that everyone who really wants to, will be able to join us for the weekend. I will leave here next Friday afternoon, as soon as possible!
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Mexray
Super Nomad
Posts: 1016
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: California Delta
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Mood: Baja Time
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Mike, thanks for 'hammering' out another fine example of your 'word-smithy' talents! It almost puts me in the driver's seat beside you...Wait a
minute - I WAS in the driver's seat during that trip, while you rode shot-gun on the way 'up' the hill to Matomi!
The trip back 'down' was a coyote of a different color! I got to follow you 'perched' in the back of David K's Toy, holding on for dear life while
sitting in a folding chair! I had to keep some distance between us, as I didn't want to 'bend' the Suby's fender, should you happen to roll out and
hinder my egress down the canyon!
Look forward to doin' it all over again next week-end - see ya' there.
According to my clock...anytime is \'BAJA TIME\' & as Jimmy Buffett says,
\"It doesn\'t use numbers or moving hands It always just says now...\"
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El Camote
Senior Nomad
Posts: 514
Registered: 9-7-2003
Location: Above the clouds
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Mood: y Blues
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Excellent writing, Mr. Humfreville, but who is this El Commode you refer to?!
Oh man, you guys are killing me! Don't you have wives who are demanding you be home for Valentine's Day? Have fun playing in the sand and hoist
one for me, your unfortunate amigo who can't be there!!
BTW, will anyone going be taking a laptop computer with a DVD drive?
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64540
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Online
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Hi Mike (El Camote), In Bob H's camper is a TV and VCR so we can see your wonderful 'Matomi 2001' movie Saturday night, in Nuevo Mazatlan.
I am not sure how many will be able to see it at a time... I do think there will be a laptop down there if you want to send a DVD...?
_________________________
The Matomi movie is an 18 minute professional video set to music... done so well, it deserves an award!
See the Internet gang at Rancho Camote, San Felipe (the chicken salesman), the Sulfur Mine (hear JPL's Mike Humfreville explain how to put out a
sulfur fire), Nuevo Mazatlan (Agua de Chale), Shell Island (James Taylor sings 'Mexico'), Valle Chico (Westy with Viva Baja sticker), and the Matomi
Canyon oasis (Shangra La in Baja). Mexray's 'self repairing' Subaru makes it through the whole trip.
I highly recommend Baja Nomads get a copy! Sr. Camote also produced a video of M's BBBB-1 and a Lost Mission Hunt preview that has a Neal Johns
segment addressing his 'wives in waiting' that will leave you rolling on the floor!!!
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Bob H
Elite Nomad
Posts: 5867
Registered: 8-19-2003
Location: San Diego
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I don't have a generator on board...
to power the TV
Bob H
PS: Mike, I really enjoyed your story. You have an amazing talent expressing yourelf. Your writings really make you feel that you are there with
you!
PSS: Our dog Shelby will be with us...
[Edited on 2-7-2004 by Bob H]
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Mike Humfreville
Super Nomad
Posts: 1148
Registered: 8-26-2003
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Punch Bowl
Sounds like we (Bob H) have solved the problem of viewing the "Text" movie. Michael, you just have to learn the rigors of parenting
a young child: shove them all off onto the wife and head where your heart takes you! Children-Shmildren. Hike up your shorts and put your foot down.
That'll work for a week or two. Then the babies will be older and moving out and you'll be left with a handshake and tear and wonder where it all
went.
Give them all you've got and we'll miss you south. I really wanted another pass at evaluating in writing your talents in starting a campfire.
Amigo Miguel
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Bob H
Elite Nomad
Posts: 5867
Registered: 8-19-2003
Location: San Diego
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OK, Audrey set me straight... we CAN operatie the TV/VCR in DC mode. No need for a generator. But if my battery gets too low I may need some help.
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Mike Humfreville
Super Nomad
Posts: 1148
Registered: 8-26-2003
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You'd be hard pressed to find more helpful folks! You count on my battery if needed.
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