Hook
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Question about my Bilsteins
I installed my new ones a couple weeks ago after buying them on line. No install instructions.
On my F350, 4wd, there are different types of mounts on the top and bottom which seemed to make it pretty clear which was the top of the shock and
which was the bottom. Thing is, the rubber boot is at the BOTTOM of all the shocks which is not the way other brands seem to be. Is this right? The
boot even seems to have small holes in the bottom to allow something to drain out of the boot so that would seem to reinforce the "boot down" theory.
Well, did I install em right????
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comitan
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My Ranchos installed boot on the bottom.
Strive For The Ideal, But Deal With What\'s Real.
Every day is a new day, better than the day before.(from some song)
Lord, Keep your arm around my shoulder and your hand over my mouth.
“The sincere pursuit of truth requires you to entertain the possibility that everything you believe to be true may in fact be false”
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Al G
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I am not a shock expert....but if it is a 50/50 shock it does not make a difference, I believe. The drain/vent holes is for air not water. if you have
60/40 shocks, then if you reverse them it will change you rebound/compression ratios (my old NASCAR days) Now watch someone really show me up
My Bilsteins are hood up on my MoHo!!!
[Edited on 5-18-2007 by Al G]
Albert G
Remember, if you haven\'t got a smile on your face and laughter in your heart, then you are just a sour old fart!....
The most precious thing we have is life, yet it has absolutely no trade-in value.
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BajaWarrior
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The Bilsteins on my Super Duty are boot down, and at the top of the shock there are decals and a part # right side up.
Haven't had a bad trip yet....
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Hook
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| Quote: | Originally posted by BajaWarrior
The Bilsteins on my Super Duty are boot down, and at the top of the shock there are decals and a part # right side up. |
Whew........didnt want to take those off. Not easy for the shade tree mechanic. looks like I did it right. Thanks.
[Edited on 5-18-2007 by Hook]
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David K
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Hook: http://www.bilstein.com/
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Minnow
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The ones on my toyota are boot on top.
Proud husband of a legal immigrant.
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okiegumbo
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Hook:
The position of the boot on a Bilstein Shock is determined by the type of mounting (cross pin, bayonet, or thru-bushing) necessary to attach it to the
vehicle. It does not matter if the boot is up or down. Mounting the barrel of any shock does not reverse the valving, regardless of the position,
compression valving and rebound valving remains the same. A conventional twin tube shock must be mounted barrel down because the valving that
controls the comp/rebound rates are located at the bottom of the shock. The valving on a monotube shock (Bilstein) is controled by a series of
variable diameter disc located on the working piston which moves up and down in a column of pressurized oil. The pressurized nitrogen is separated
from the oil column by a floating piston. In some applications the type of mounting requires that the Bilstien shock be mounted barrel down. Give
Bilstein a call and they will send you some info how they work and why.
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Hook
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I feel comfortable that I mounted them right. Given the differences in the top and bottom mounts, there was only one way.
So far, I feel the ride is much superior to the old Rancho 9000s I had......and that's with the Lance off it. Lance should go back on next week so we
shall see what we shall see. But thanks for the info on how the single Bilsteins usually work, Okie.
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Diver
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Can't wait to hear your thoughts about the Bilsteins with/without load.
My 2004 F350 could use some relaxatiion !!
I hope it helps a lot in the washboard because my current set-up stinks.
.
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Hook
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Diver
Can't wait to hear your thoughts about the Bilsteins with/without load.
My 2004 F350 could use some relaxatiion !!
I hope it helps a lot in the washboard because my current set-up stinks.
. |
In talking to people more versed in this than me (Roberto, the guys at Deaver) there arent many options if you are full leaf springs all the way
around. Good shocks alone will not do it. Deaver will modify the leafs to provide a graduated acceptance of the camper weight so that you're not so
stiff without it but still have enough stiffness when it's on. This is NOT to say that it is not still a bit stiff w/o the load.
Or, you can do what most of us do on washboard; air down dramatically and carry a pump. I am running LR E tires and will drop them to around 40 and
it makes a big difference. Course I am running around at 75 front and 80 in rear on pavement. It's murder on the sectional freeways around SoCal but
the Bilsteins do seemed to have improved that some. My commute is tiny so I suck it up.
If you're carrying a cabover, dont get impatient with speed. You'll do damage to your camper if you go too fast; damage that may not be apparent
immediately.
Yeah, we're slower than the tacos........but we have EVERYTHING we need once we get there. 
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Roberto
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Hey compa, thanks for the props, I am just a beginner with scar marks to show for my ignorance.
But, there's an additional option, and you may discuss it with Jeff at Deaver. The stock springs on an F350 are configured in a way that they are way
to stiff when the truck is unloaded and great when loaded. I used to carry about a thousand pounds of stuff in the bed just to get a better ride.
Jeff takes two of the springs from the pack, re-arches them, and mounts them back reversed. This way, those springs will only come into play when the
truck is loaded, and be close to a non-issue before that. It works - I used to have this setup.
Another, MUCH more expensive options (1,000 - 1,500 depending) are completely new springs. He makes a progressive pack that is made up of twice as
many (at least) individual leaves. This way, each individual leaf comes into play progressively as the weight is added. Also works, and what I now
have also because I have a suspension lift and did not want any blocks - these are arched in a way to provide the lift.
I don't carry nearly as much weight as you do (when you have the Lance). I have a Callen shell and about 500 pounds of stuff dry - when I'm actually
camping there's the supplies, etc. to add to that. This means that my unloaded weight is close to 1,000 above the normal dry weight of my truck. With
the previous setup, and the wind resistance of the camper, the truck got a little squirrely when driven at speed through curves. Can't have that! The truck is
now as stable as before, a little stiffer on-road, but unbelievable off.
Saludos
P.S. I'm guessing the Bilstein's you have are the "OEM replacement" shocks. These are great, and you have to spend a whole lot more money to step up
in performance, but they will leak of you overwork/overheat them. And they are not rebuildable - one of the big benefits of high-performance shocks.
Take care of them, and they will take care of you. Primary issue is heat on dirt.
[Edited on 5-27-2007 by Roberto]
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