Halboo
Nomad
Posts: 193
Registered: 2-19-2006
Location: 33°26\'00.15\"N 117°37\'09.84W
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Mood: Bohemian
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12 days in Baja
Finally getting around to my trip report.
We go to Baja to fish and relax and make friends.
We left San Clemente early on the 26th driving through the hellish smoke on the way down. Crossed the border with no problems getting our visas but
when I started up the long hill along the fence I had Juan Ley on my butt with his lights on. The MC cop looked like the model for the crooked Baja
cop stereotype. Paunch, shined up badges, dark mirrored shades, gold tooth etc.
He wanted to shake my hand before shaking me down.
According to him I'd exceeded the speed limit on the long steep down hill stretch.
I had been very careful about going through there but I could see what was up. I already had a twenty in my hand.
He said "The fine is $150" and I replied "Okay, I'll follow you to the station and pay it"
He came back with "Hey relax, you are on vacation"
By this time he'd seen the money in my hand and he said
"40 dollars", I said "20", he said "ok; drive carefully".
Good thing I had the Sindicatura sign in the back window.
(Don't care to hear any comments about my supporting the corruption either. Mike Carona's a crook too.)
Back on the road we stopped in San Quintin and had a great lunch at
Mariscos Capi.
After lunch we're back on the highway stopping only for gas and bumper stickers at Baja Cactus until we made it to Rancho Santa Inez for the night
and a meal with Mathilda.
Up early the next morning we had another great mariscos lunch at Santispac before setting up camp at Playa Coyote.
I had not been down in that area for over twenty years and it's still very beautiful but seems pretty fishless.
For whatever reason, over the years I'm the one the bugs liked and SWIMPAL got off biteless; but not this trip. That first night, Sherry got
completely chewed up by both mosquitoes and the P-nche jejene and I was essentially untouched!
The next morning a nice local family set up for the day next to us.
We learned that they lived in TJ for half the year and Mulege for the remainder.They treated us to an amazing meal of Almejas Brujas;
Individual foil packets full of diced clams,shrimp,ham,onion,chile,garlic and cheese.
Que Rico!!!
No fish and bugs so we are out of there after the second night.
Hit the road up to Punta Chivato where we are all alone on the beach, right on the point until about 9 pm when three truck loads of local joven
jooligans arrived and set up about 50 feet away. They kept us up all night with drunken chatter and blasted out at dawn leaving behind a mess of
tecate cans and butts. 
I got up the next morning and trolled the yak around the point and was shocked to find a panga with 4 guys. They looked surprised to see me as well.
Two guys in the boat and two guys in the water with masks and snorkels tending the danged gill net they'd spread all over the cove. I sadly watched
them pick all the little 8" cabrilla out of the net.
I obviously had very little luck fishing around Chivato but we made a new friend with Vicente, a local scallop diver working alone off the beach
or out of a small tin skiff. We talked at length about the pirates and he bemoaned his governments lack of care for the area.
We bought some beautiful scallops from Vicente and I had a great chat with him; he even showed us a scar from a mako bite he'd gotten years before.
Again no fish so we decide to finally head over to Asuncion.
We had originally planned on going there for the first part of the trip but SWIMPAL wanted to get a little more experience on her new kayak before
she tackled the Pacific.
We got to Juan and Shari's and were greeted with open arms and looks of relief, seems Shari had not gotten the message we'd left for her days before.
Their little place is terrific and they are spectacular hosts and very special people. They are both wonderful cooks and we ate all kinds of yummy
seafood including the amazing Caracol.
We were having such a good time just eating and gabbing, the yaks never even touched the water but on Saturday Juan and I went fishing and I had the
best day fishing I've had in years.
The full story is on the fishing page but suffice to say I had the best surface iron bite of my life which for me is just about the most fun type of
fishing a man can get. 
The Cooperative in this area is an example for the rest of Baja and does a tremendous job protecting the abundant local resources
We could have stayed at the Blowhole forever but duty calls and we headed back monday morning. On the way home we stopped at Baja Cactus for the
night. We loved it! The place is absolutely beautiful and we have a new favorite stopping spot. Although next time I'm going to get a room on the top
floor in the back;some rude racer types showed up late and woke everybody in the joint up with their banging around.
We got into town about sundown and did not want to eat at Mama E's; the girls in the office sent us up the road to the restaurant next to the
Sinahloa RV/Hotel and we had another great meal.
The next morning we ended up going the LONG way home; through Mexicali.Let's just say we wanted to take the scenic route.
Got sent to secondary coming back and all four agents encontered were somewhat rude and officious.
Got home Tuesday night around 6pm plum tuckered but ready to go back at the drop of a hat.
I sure wish that darned Mex hiway 1 was little wider though.
[Edited on 11-8-2007 by Halboo]
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windsurfeddy
Newbie
Posts: 16
Registered: 11-30-2006
Member Is Offline
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Say, where do you get the Sindicatura sticker/number??
That was some fish you caught!!!
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DianaT
Select Nomad
Posts: 10020
Registered: 12-17-2004
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Just guessing, but somehow I think we have not seen the last of you in Bahia Asuncion. 
That is a beautiful fish.
Glad you made it home safe and sound---Tecate, IMHO opinion and experience is an easier crossing than Mexicali.
Diane
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vivaloha
Nomad
Posts: 140
Registered: 11-12-2007
Member Is Offline
Mood: mellow
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Nice lil' report and amazing fish...
Hey, kinda curious too...what
is that Sindicatura sticker all about...?
Sounds like you challenged the baja...
you drove, got the mandatory ticket,
got your 'yak on, got your fish, gabbin
and random tasty local meals and headed home...
nice work...
Baja California can be a heaven or hell experience - often the determining factor is your AWARENESS in the moment.
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Halboo
Nomad
Posts: 193
Registered: 2-19-2006
Location: 33°26\'00.15\"N 117°37\'09.84W
Member Is Offline
Mood: Bohemian
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Sindicatura is a government entity where you can report corrupt officials in TJ
http://www.sindicatura.gob.mx/
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Diver
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4729
Registered: 11-15-2004
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You mean these ??
http://www.shga.com/uploads/Sindicatura.JPG
Maybe add a phone number ??
.
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ELINVESTIG8R
Select Nomad
Posts: 15882
Registered: 11-20-2007
Location: Southern California
Member Is Offline
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Hi Diver, where can I get one of those SINDICATURA stickers to put on my back window. I love it.
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Bob and Susan
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8807
Registered: 8-20-2003
Location: Mulege BCS on the BAY
Member Is Offline
Mood: Full Time Residents
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S.O.S. Support Of Sindicatura
7349 Milliken Ave. #140-234
Rancho Cucamonga, Ca 91730
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ELINVESTIG8R
Select Nomad
Posts: 15882
Registered: 11-20-2007
Location: Southern California
Member Is Offline
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Thank you Bob and Susan When I go get my tourist card and vehicle permit at the San Bernardino CA Banjcercito I will drive over there and and get some
of those stickers. Thanks again.
David
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64545
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Great report and photos... Thanks!!!
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