Great Trip Report emailed to me by John...
Well, we made the Baja trip to the "Bay of Angels" with few problems. We decided to forego the Puertocitos route. My girlfriend and her family
expecially had reservations about the road and as things ended up we did not have as much time as I expected for the trip. After reading the book of
the Englishman who walked around the Baja penninusla, and his account of the road, and the many cars fallen into arroyas we decided to pass on the
adventure. So we entered Mexico at Tecate, a nice little town on the border between El Centro and San Diego and worked southwest to Ensanada. From
there we turned south on Hwy #1, leaving the Pacific to starboard we began working inland. One really great find was the "San Carlos" motel in Bahia
de San Quintin. We stopped in town to ask some taxi drivers for a good place to stay and they were unanimous in recommending the place. It is a 12
room motel sitting on a bluff overlooking the Bay. We got a special rate of $20 per night and the usual price is only $30. The room we got, #1, was
on the very end and had a huge picture window overlooking the beautiful bay and mountains on the penninsula between us and the Pacific, the sitting
patio outside was a wonderful place have a drink, relax and view the varied sea birds that inhabit the bay. We had brought binoculars and enjoyed
viewing the many species of ducks, geese, gulls and shore birds. It was one of the quietest places I have ever stayed in Mexico, absolutely beautiful
and serene, no sound except wind, wave and birds, and a million dollar view. The inn keeper, Carlos, was extremely cordial and the place well kept.
The food was excellent, and at good price. Dinners; new york strip steak or seafood, four course with dessert, were about $12 and local wine a good
deal at $10 per bottle at the table. The dining room was quaint and quite comfortable with a great view on the bay, we felt priviliged to have found
it. We had only a few other guests staying there and quickly made friends as it is such a unique place, truly "old" Mexico! We liked it so much we
stayed three nights, enjoying long walks on the bay shore and beautiful starry nights. The place gets electricity from a generator for a few hours
each night, we even had plenty of hot water for the showers! I give it my highest recommendation, it is located on the "Muelle Viejo" road about
three miles south of San Quintin, the road is a bit rough getting there, but well worth it, a quiet and tranquil oasis by the bay.
The next stretch of highway was spectacular, we passed over mountain and vale, even to the top of some mountains in the clouds. I would have never
imagined such beauty in Baja. About three and a half hours down the highway, the Bahia de Los Angeles road was OK, a little rutted in places, and
there seems now a permenant gassing opportunity at the turn off with two pick-ups and their 50 gallon drums, Prices were 130 pesos ($12) for five
gallons. We stayed on the beach in Dagget's rooms, spartan and bare, but adequate for $30 per night, with plenty of hot water. The nice thing was
being next door to Raquel and Larrys where we enjoyed their good meals sitting out on the patio, or sat on their swing under the palapa roof, very
clean and tidy, right on the beach. We found out R&L was very short on hot water and at $50 per night the rooms were not much better than ours at
Daggets, a bit larger is all. We met some Californians the next day and they invited us for a wonderful day on their run-about out to the islands.
We found a great bay on one of the islands for a day of snorkeling and exploring. Getting out on the water there is a must and the sea life is
incredible, we even spotted a sea eagle. We snorkeled in cold water with one school of hundreds of large chubs. With more time I could have filled
up an ice chest with these good tasting fish.
I had never ventured so far south in Baja but found the scenery spectacular, I never imagined the verdant valleys filled with green pastures and all
manner of agriculture, including wineries and vineyards. The mountain passes had multiple vistas that were truly beautiful, we passed some "cactus
forrests" further south that were remarkable. We averaged about 45 MPH on the trip and Hwy #1 was in excellent shape although a bit challenging with
no shoulders. The "moving houses" (RV's) used by some gringos reported great anxiety when passing the many overland semi-trailor rigs, with only
inches to spare. We had no trouble though in our small SUV. The Mexican drivers of overland trucks even help out by giving you a left signal when
ahead to let you know it is OK to pass. The vista overlooking the Bay of Los Angeles is truly spectacular and deserves some extra time in
appreciation. It has been described as one of the most beautiful bays in Mexico, with good cause. The road to Gonzaga Bay from highway #1 looked
good but I don't know how far the graveled and grated road extended. We calculated the mileage from the border to be @ 380 miles to Bahia de Los
Angeles, San Quintin Bay was about half way.
Thanks to all who helped "pave the way," next time we may try the Puertocitos route but we sure did enjoy the Hwy #1 scenery.
Kindest Regards, John
|
