elgatoloco
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4323
Registered: 11-19-2002
Location: Yes
Member Is Offline
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Thanks! Great stuff. I remember the first time I walked onto the beach at Pipeline during a winter swell. It was unbeliveable. The year before I had
actually snorkled at both Sunset and Pipeline area during the summer when it was a lake. The amount of water moving and actually feeling the ground
shake during big surf was amazing.
When I was in my mid teens David Nuuhiwa rented a casa for the summer in our campo in Baja Norte. We got to hang out in the lineup with him and Donald
Takayama, Robert August and Corky Carroll. I still have a DT signature noserider that I bought that summer from Donald. I remember one weekend this
guy Bill Stewart showed up with some very cool airbushed hats and shirts with the name of our campo on there and we all bought them up. He ended up
making a name for himself with the new fangled airbrush technique.
A couple years ago we stayed at a friend's house in Tamarindo, Costa Rica. Across the street lives Robert August, we ran into him one afternoon and
during a chat I asked if he recalled surfing at K*@ and he said sure did and I told him about me being one of he groms that he dropped in on in the
summer of '72. He bought me a cold beer to make up for it.
MAGA
Making Attorneys Get Attorneys
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Lee
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3455
Registered: 10-2-2006
Location: High in the Colorado Rockies
Member Is Offline
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Jock is looking good.
''Five Summer Stories'' -- best surf movie. Gerry walking his 6' Lightning Bolt at Pipe.
http://www.thesurfnetwork.com/search/?search=gerry%20lopez
Surfer's Journal had an interview with Jock and Gerry last month's edition.
Bring back the old days.
US Marines: providing enemies of America an opportunity to die for their country since 1775.
What I say before any important decision.
F*ck it.
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The Sculpin
Nomad
Posts: 401
Registered: 9-3-2002
Location: Back in the Saddle
Member Is Offline
Mood: Riding into the Sunset, looking for a sunrise.
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Actually Grover, it is baja. It's not uncommon to paddle out on a big day at the Rock or maybe Perfecta and see Gerry and a few locals enjoying a few.
Whoa there, Cowboy - pull back on those reins!
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El Jefe
Super Nomad
Posts: 1027
Registered: 10-27-2003
Location: South East Cape
Member Is Offline
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As a matter of fact he was here at our little east cape piece of heaven about 10 days ago with a crew of guys doing standup paddling. As you might
imagine he surfs the big board well. My son had a nice chat with him in the lineup.
No b-tchin\' in the Baja.
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Sallysouth
Super Nomad
Posts: 1835
Registered: 10-9-2003
Location: Capo Beach
Member Is Offline
Mood: missing Baja...
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My ex and I got married in 68, flew to the North Shore.Our first "digs" were what was called 'Roach Road".My husband also shaped boards, and always
surfed the biggest waves he could find.He loved Sunset at 18 ft. and surfed Wiamea during the 69 evacuation of the North Shore.Yeah he got it just
before it all closed out.Then we moved to a house(little white one)on the beach at Pipeline, next door to Mike Hynson(and his wife Melinda) .Never had
furniture, phones, TV,,,who needed them then.Then to Sunset Point, right next to Barry Kaniapuni and his wife Leslie and kids.I used to so love
watching those water men surf! I tell you, there is no bigger turn on than watching a man surf !!In those days Jerry was just a baby.Boy did he
learn!!Then it was on to Maui, My hubby surfing Honalua Bay, and I have pics of him surfing solo at 8ft,(would be called 12 to 15 here) early
morning!We were living in Hanakawuai, very close at the time.Awesome memories...After that we moved to Haiku and he surfed Maalaea like no one else
could.Dick Brewer and Sammy Hawk,lots a good surfers had him shape baords for them just for Maalaea, the fastest wave known to man then.My daughter
was named after that break, born on the floor , delivered by ME, in Hawaii, North Shore, Rockey Point. Thanks for bring back the memories, and letting
me share.Hope I didn't bore you guys... 
[Edited on 6-30-2008 by Sallysouth]
[Edited on 6-30-2008 by Sallysouth]
Happiness is just a Baja memory away...
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Sallysouth
Super Nomad
Posts: 1835
Registered: 10-9-2003
Location: Capo Beach
Member Is Offline
Mood: missing Baja...
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Oh dang, none of that was about Baja! We move to Baja after that period in time tho, Estero Beach, lived with Mom and Dad , and our first baby was
born in Ensenada.(edit for time frame) First to Hawaii, back to Baja, where Juanita was born, then back to Hawaii )And as far as I know, No one has or
could ever ride the Pipe like Jerry!
[Edited on 7-1-2008 by Sallysouth]
[Edited on 7-1-2008 by Sallysouth]
Happiness is just a Baja memory away...
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