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pacificobob
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that's a lot of information...if it doesn't cure your ficus, you could feed it to the kids!
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Skipjack Joe
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Since we’re on the subject of fungus. My tomato plants here in Baja all start out well but soon pick up a fungus, wither and die. The fungus starts
from the bottom of the plant and grows up. I grow them in earthbox containers. Anybody have a good solution for that?
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BajaTed
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What's the best time to plant a tree?
20 years ago
Es Todo Bueno
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CaboMagic
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Skipjack - if you re-use soil that has had those plants, without treating it for the fungus - perhaps that could be [part of] the problem.
Hope this helps, Lori
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pacificobob
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Quote: Originally posted by Skipjack Joe  | | Since we’re on the subject of fungus. My tomato plants here in Baja all start out well but soon pick up a fungus, wither and die. The fungus starts
from the bottom of the plant and grows up. I grow them in earthbox containers. Anybody have a good solution for that? |
sounds like powdery mildew. super common on some veggies and flowers. its a big problem with the chili growers here. some years are worse than
others. in my experience any tomatoes grown in tropical and sub tropical areas using organic methods usually will suffer from some pests or
disease....but will still give fruit.
there are a variety of organic treatments. including milk, and H2O2 [hydrogen peroxide]
check out youtube...lots of informative content.
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JC43
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| Quote: Originally posted by Skipjack Joe | | Since we’re on the subject of fungus. My tomato plants here in Baja all start out well but soon pick up a fungus, wither and die. The fungus starts
from the bottom of the plant and grows up. I grow them in earthbox containers. Anybody have a good solution for that? |
O.K., ficus is not tomato. But it sounds very similar. Our ficus was about 6 feet high already Dark green leaves. Looking healthy and strong
all the past years. It started last year, the leaves turning yellow loosing leaves (which is normal in certain amounts and times) but loosing a lot of
leaves. Now looking real poor. Same with the agave. Several! Strong and tall. 5 feet as well. Then crippling by the day. When we pulled them out with
a car we found lots of white maggots at the roots. Maybe normal as those praying on everything which is rotten. Has maybe nothing to do with the
fungus, I think.
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JC43
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Going back to the topic and your question: This time, March & April is best to plant a tree. In any case before the hot season starts.
I know from the neighbors/Mexicans that i.e. ficus offshoots can only be successful now at this time. No chance in summer.
So planting a tree: Hurry up, I would suggest.
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JC43
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I ordered 1 Kg of sulfur and 2Kg `carbonato de calcio`from mercadolibre.
It was offered as treatment against fungus on leaves. So it might help the soil as well.
Asking the company VELSIMEX (which has the monopoly on Benoma T 50 in Mexico) they don`t answer. Website directed to dealers. But I do not have the
calm and perseverance to ask every dealer if or not they can supply Benoma. Sorry for that pacificobob! Thanks for the suggestion anyway!
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Skipjack Joe
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| Quote: Originally posted by JC43 | | Quote: Originally posted by Skipjack Joe | | Since we’re on the subject of fungus. My tomato plants here in Baja all start out well but soon pick up a fungus, wither and die. The fungus starts
from the bottom of the plant and grows up. I grow them in earthbox containers. Anybody have a good solution for that? |
O.K., ficus is not tomato. But it sounds very similar. Our ficus was about 6 feet high already Dark green leaves. Looking healthy and strong
all the past years. It started last year, the leaves turning yellow loosing leaves (which is normal in certain amounts and times) but loosing a lot of
leaves. Now looking real poor. Same with the agave. Several! Strong and tall. 5 feet as well. Then crippling by the day. When we pulled them out with
a car we found lots of white maggots at the roots. Maybe normal as those praying on everything which is rotten. Has maybe nothing to do with the
fungus, I think. |
Maggots in the roots sounds like insect infestation. I would treat the plant with a pesticide. Agaves in my garden are very hardy. It’s the Aloes
that often get infected. Could those ‘maggots’ be ant eggs or larvae? I find that ants like to house within the roots but usually when that
happens the plant is infested with other bugs and the ants forage on them. Figuring out these problems can be challenging.
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JC43
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| Quote: Originally posted by Skipjack Joe | [rquote]
Maggots in the roots sounds like insect infestation. I would treat the plant with a pesticide. Agaves in my garden are very hardy. It’s the Aloes
that often get infected. Could those ‘maggots’ be ant eggs or larvae? I find that ants like to house within the roots but usually when that
happens the plant is infested with other bugs and the ants forage on them. Figuring out these problems can be challenging. |
No, no ant eggs! They moved a lot. When the agave was pulled out they were just in the hole. I put lime on them and they doubled up badly when I put
lime (carbonato de calcio) on them. Seems to me they were eating up those rotten roots.
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JC43
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Just for info an answer about Benoma T from the producing company.
El precio es de $280 neto por kg
La caja tiene 12 kg, precio total $3,360 neto más envío
Se deposita a nuestra cuenta bancaria, se puede facturar si lo desea
My original mail and question:
De: justin.cox43@aol.com
Enviado el: sábado, 17 de abril de 2021 08:56 p. m.
Para: contacto@fumigatu.com
Asunto: BONOMA T 50
Hola Buenas Dias!
¡A quien le interese!
Necesito BONOMA T 50 1 Kg.
¿Cómo ordenar?
¿Como pagar?
Saludos
J.C.
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mtgoat666
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To the untrained eyes, lots of insect larvae (ant, termite, etc.) look like maggots.
Do you have the invasive Argentine ants like we got in so cal? They are farmer ants and tend scale on roots, can kill plants quickly.
Here is treatment resource I have used: https://www.cnpssd.org/gardening-and-landscaping-with-califo... and go to the link on ants.
Woke!
“...ask not what your country can do for you – ask what you can do for your country.” “My fellow citizens of the world: ask not what America
will do for you, but what together we can do for the freedom of man.”
Prefered gender pronoun: the royal we
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Hook
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| Quote: Originally posted by Skipjack Joe | | Since we’re on the subject of fungus. My tomato plants here in Baja all start out well but soon pick up a fungus, wither and die. The fungus starts
from the bottom of the plant and grows up. I grow them in earthbox containers. Anybody have a good solution for that? |
Describe the fungus. How does it manifest itself on the leaves? Here are a couple of sites that describe tomato problems.
http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/DiagnosticKeys/To...
https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/vegetable/problem-solver...
Arent you in Asuncion? Do you get a lot of dew each evening, from the ocean and the overcast? Does it stay on the leaves, well into the morning? Damp
leaves for hours at a time are not good for tomatoes. Very prone to diseases. You dont water from above, do you? Don't!
I get powdery mildew on just about any squash or cucumber plant I grow in San Carlos. But I have never had it on my tomatoes. I am about 3/4 of a mile
from the ocean, so my air is pretty dry. Any dew from a south wind is usually gone in the first hour of direct sunshine.
I have had bouts of "early blight", at times. I observe my plants CLOSELY each and every day, and at the first sign of any leaf problems, I REMOVE
THOSE LEAVES IMMEDIATELY and dispose of them well away from the garden.
AND NOT IN THE COMPOST BIN! I have been taught to never put tomato leaves, even healthy ones, in the compost bin. Just too prone to disease carrying.
Some diseases will survive composting.
Obviously, there is a limit to the number of leaves you can remove without harming the plant. But one thing's for sure. REMOVE ALL LEAVES AND SUCKERS
BELOW THE FIRST SET OF FLOWERS. The plant will eventually discard those leaves anyway and they are prone to disease, due to proximity to the soil and
being in the shade so much. So, remove them and re-direct the plant's energy to areas that will produce fruit.
If plants are old enough and well-established, a neem oil spray can also work on many topical funguses. But it WILL harm young leaves. Neem oil
mixtures work really well on many diseases and insects, but it can be too much for fragile leaves.
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surabi
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| Quote: Originally posted by JC43 | | Same with the agave. Several! Strong and tall. 5 feet as well. Then crippling by the day. When we pulled them out with a car we found lots of white
maggots at the roots. Maybe normal as those praying on everything which is rotten. |
Not maggots. Likely larvae of agave snout weevil, the most common agave pest. Google it. Burrow up through the center of the plant, the crown turns
yellow and eventually falls off- you have to use a pesticide in the soil to get rid of them.
And I've given up trying to grow squash and cukes. The grey powdery mildew is a killer and even the copper spray I've used doesn't work.
And never smoke near tomato plants and wash ypur hands before touching the plants if you're a cigarette smoker. It can give the plants tobacco mosaic.
[Edited on 4-20-2021 by surabi]
[Edited on 4-20-2021 by surabi]
[Edited on 4-20-2021 by surabi]
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JC43
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| Quote: Originally posted by surabi |
Not maggots. Likely larvae of agave snout weevil, the most common agave pest. Google it. Burrow up through the center of the plant, the crown turns
yellow and eventually falls off- you have to use a pesticide in the soil to get rid of them.
And I've given up trying to grow squash and cukes. The grey powdery mildew is a killer and even the copper spray I've used doesn't work.
And never smoke near tomato plants and wash ypur hands before touching the plants if you're a cigarette smoker. It can give the plants tobacco mosaic.
[Edited on 4-20-2021 by surabi]
[Edited on 4-20-2021 by surabi]
[Edited on 4-20-2021 by surabi] |
Yes, that`s it! I was asking the old Lady Google - as you recommended. Those pics looking 100% same like I had underneath the agave. But a real one,
an adult beetle? I never have seen one. Maybe when getting rid of the infested agave I put lime onto the soil and the larva and that kills all from
the beginning of a pest. Now, for the future I will put lime around all agave. And maybe a little sulfur can`t hurt the plant.
Thanks for the hint!
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Skipjack Joe
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| Quote: Originally posted by Hook | | Quote: Originally posted by Skipjack Joe | | Since we’re on the subject of fungus. My tomato plants here in Baja all start out well but soon pick up a fungus, wither and die. The fungus starts
from the bottom of the plant and grows up. I grow them in earthbox containers. Anybody have a good solution for that? |
Describe the fungus. How does it manifest itself on the leaves? Here are a couple of sites that describe tomato problems.
http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/DiagnosticKeys/To...
https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/vegetable/problem-solver...
Arent you in Asuncion? Do you get a lot of dew each evening, from the ocean and the overcast? Does it stay on the leaves, well into the morning? Damp
leaves for hours at a time are not good for tomatoes. Very prone to diseases. You dont water from above, do you? Don't!
I get powdery mildew on just about any squash or cucumber plant I grow in San Carlos. But I have never had it on my tomatoes. I am about 3/4 of a mile
from the ocean, so my air is pretty dry. Any dew from a south wind is usually gone in the first hour of direct sunshine.
I have had bouts of "early blight", at times. I observe my plants CLOSELY each and every day, and at the first sign of any leaf problems, I REMOVE
THOSE LEAVES IMMEDIATELY and dispose of them well away from the garden.
AND NOT IN THE COMPOST BIN! I have been taught to never put tomato leaves, even healthy ones, in the compost bin. Just too prone to disease carrying.
Some diseases will survive composting.
Obviously, there is a limit to the number of leaves you can remove without harming the plant. But one thing's for sure. REMOVE ALL LEAVES AND SUCKERS
BELOW THE FIRST SET OF FLOWERS. The plant will eventually discard those leaves anyway and they are prone to disease, due to proximity to the soil and
being in the shade so much. So, remove them and re-direct the plant's energy to areas that will produce fruit.
If plants are old enough and well-established, a neem oil spray can also work on many topical funguses. But it WILL harm young leaves. Neem oil
mixtures work really well on many diseases and insects, but it can be too much for fragile leaves. |
Thank you for your detailed response. I’m pretty sure the fungus involved is Verticillium Wilt. It doesn’t kill the plant outright. It wilts down
to a disgusting brown mess without affecting the existing fruits. Eventually a new young shoot will grow out and produce small fruits and slowly
succumb as well.
I first encountered this by planting early girls directly into the Asuncion soil and watering using drip system. They died quickly. The next year I
bought earthbox containers. This system has the plant sucking moisture from below the 1 foot deep soil. There’s a reservoir of water. You never
water the surface. I bought varieties that were resistant to this fungus and pruned the bottoms. The results were better than previously but with the
same ending. The third year the earthbox plants were 7 feet tall and produced tomatoes the size of a tortilla. Delicious. But when the wilt came it
was devastating.
Unlike San Quintin there is virtually no fog here. There is a dew but it’s gone in half an hour. Maybe they get wet at night. One thing about
earthboxes is that they achieve their sucking power with a soil that’s heavy with peat moss. It acts like a sponge. But the entire surface is
covered with a plastic girdle that acts like a mulch and prevents the leaves from making contact. Below the plastic the soil is very wet. So the stem
of the plant is in touch with moisture. That could be the problem.
Both resistant and no resistant plants wilted.
PS. I’ve concluded that you need daily 70+ weather for the tomatoes to taste better than Subway sandwich tomatoes. Growing them in the winter here
is a waste of time.
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Hook
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I am in San Carlos, Sonora, not San Quintin. Much drier than SQ. But there are large tomato growing ops in the SQ area, arent there? Probably well
back from the shore and in hot houses.
I never grow any tomatoes that have been hybridized to minimize VW or FW or N. Only heirlooms. Pretty partial to Brandywines, Cherokee Purps and San
Marzanos. Every third year I might grow some Striped Germans or Oxhearts or Costoluto Genoveses. But always Brandys and Purps.
Funny, I figured Early Girls were probably VFN toms. But I dont know.
Where I live, I have planted any time from late Oct to early December. Doesnt seem to matter; I never get ripe tomatoes until March, at the earliest.
I start from seed in small containers and move to the in-ground garden when they are about six inches tall. I have concluded that they dont do much
until they realize the days are getting longer, in terms of producing flowers that will become fruit. Dec-Jan seem like our coldest months, but it's a
rare day that doesnt reach 70 in ANY month. An 80 degree day or two is also possible in ANY month from Dec-Feb.
Doesnt really sound like your issues are with surface/topical moisture, unless dew sets on the leaves early in the evening and stays until the sun
burns it off. Could you set up a fan that keeps them dry, overnight? Barring that, I would experiment with neem oil, since it appears the wilt is
coming when the plants are well established.
[Edited on 4-20-2021 by Hook]
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surabi
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| Quote: Originally posted by JC43 |
Yes, that`s it! I was asking the old Lady Google - as you recommended. Those pics looking 100% same like I had underneath the agave. But a real one,
an adult beetle? I never have seen one. Maybe when getting rid of the infested agave I put lime onto the soil and the larva and that kills all from
the beginning of a pest. Now, for the future I will put lime around all agave. And maybe a little sulfur can`t hurt the plant.
Thanks for the hint! |
I hope the lime and sulphur work for you. I like to stick to organic stuff for pretty much everything, but I actually used Imidacloripid in the soil
on mine, which was the recommended poison. I don't have any food crops near them, so I went the serious poison route. That was several years ago, one
application worked into the soil, and I haven't had a weevil problem since.
It took me a long time to actually see one of the adult weevils- I found it when I cut open the plant that had died to look for one.
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pacificobob
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Imidacloprid is a systemic broad spectrum insecticide. sold under a variety of brand names. my rancho is all organic....
......except, i have been using this to combat the south american palm weevil.
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surabi
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Me too, I do everything organic. But occasionally you have no choice but to bring in the heavy guns if you want to save something that's being
attacked by a pest that you just can't kill by natural means.
That poison is the only non-organic thing I've ever used, and I still have most of the jar left because I only used it once.
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