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charliemanson
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Not sure I get the point of that type of construction. Please enlighten us on why that over regular, proven block.
Some guy put one up near us and hasn't sold it in 3 years and with window it looks like a magnifying glass cooking every thing in site inside.
With block costs now up 25% or so we still get mid grade homes built for under $100sq/meter! Not sq foot.
Just interested in why to choose that route, Security? Rancho Nuevo is a locked up tight gringo community so that cant be it.
thanks for your insite
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RFClark
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CM,
If you notice the front part on the ground is traditional block.
Why steel containers for the 2 story part? I wanted to build a container home and in my opinion they are stronger in Earthquakes and hurricanes.
The garage under the house is 20’ X 24’ with no posts. There is no problem with water blowing through the block walls in high winds (hurricanes).
We think that the cost per sq ft will be quite a bit under $100/sq ft.
The internal load bearing walls are 4” rather than 8” thick and the non-load bearing walls are 3” thick so more usable space inside as well.
The other major issue is climate control. Concrete bock walls are 8”thick and when filled have a large thermal mass. The usual practice is to put a
couple of inches of foam on the inside that gives you a 10+“ thick wall. With steel containers the walls are thin but block air and water
completely. They can be painted with reflective paint, covered with reflective material over insulation and sill have foam insulation on the inside
while only being 3” thick. That type of wall also has a low thermal mass, low air leakage and is waterproof.
Controlling air and moisture leakage are very important as they use a lot of your AC capacity. Good double pane windows are important as well.
But mostly we’re building it because the wife and I think it’s a neat idea!
[Edited on 9-10-2022 by RFClark]
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Santiago
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RF: thanks for posting this, keep them coming. Love the uppers at right angles to the lowers. There's a few of these single units for rent as Air BNB
units in the wine valley on the side of a steep hill, the up-slope sits on the ground, the down slope end has posts holding it up.
How do you run electrical and plumbing stacks? Do you need headers or lintels when you cut openings for windows and doors or is it self-supporting?
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mtgoat666
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Quote: Originally posted by RFClark  |
Why steel containers for the 2 story part? I wanted to build a container home and in my opinion they are stronger in Earthquakes and hurricanes.
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How are the containers structurally attached to foundation?
Are containers only structurally attached to each other at corners?
I like how stick built wood frame flexes with EQ motions.
I wonder how containers attached at only corners flex during EQ motion?
People say container homes are EQ safe, but I wonder how they actually move in EQs and if they are prone to odd deformation due to EQ motion with
limited corner connections…. You might be safe in EQ relative to improperly engineered masonry building, but your home might have sheared structural
connections due to EQ.
Did a structural engineer do seismic for your design?
Woke!
“...ask not what your country can do for you – ask what you can do for your country.” “My fellow citizens of the world: ask not what America
will do for you, but what together we can do for the freedom of man.”
Prefered gender pronoun: the royal we
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RFClark
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Santiago,
We will run both the plumbing and electrical in the walls, floors and external chases.
Plumbing is minimal as we’ll have a hot water (propane) at each end. The front has traditional orange tube in the concrete. Most of the rest is US
pre-wired metal flex. The little critters don’t eat it! Water will be copper tube interior and pvc exterior.
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pacificobob
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While I'm a big fan of reusing and recycling. I also like architectural esthetics.
Steel boxes look like, well, Steel boxes. Imo.
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RFClark
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Goat,
I like wood and plywood stick too! That said so do the Taiwanese Termites here! They even eat plywood.
I'll post foundation pictures. The 20’s are each set on 3’ X 9’ x 4’ steel reenforced bases there’s a 12” X 1/2” steel plate under each
corner attached to the steel in the base by a 5/8” rebar cage. Additionally those corners are each anchored to the base by a 1/4” plate channel
with 2 - Simpson 1/2” X 6” Titan concrete screws.
The containers are connected by multiple steel square tube also the uppers are attached to the concrete deck and the foundation.
I was going for at least 40psf wind and 20psf uplift. Earthquakes! Murphy can always outbid your worst nightmares!
It will be the last house standing in RN no matter what happens.
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RFClark
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PB,
The exterior is to be covered with Durock and smooth cement. It will look just like a big cement box! Painted two shades of gray. It’s called
Industrial Modern. It will have some architectural features to break up the lines and won’t have ugly solar panels visible on the roof.
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RFClark
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Foundation and concept detail
The roof on ours is flatter and will have a parapet around it.
 
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RFClark
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This weeks progress in spite of Kay
This week we accomplished a lot in spite of Kay.
The kitchen/dinning room is ready for the bond beam under the roof/deck
Here’s a picture of how the containers are attached to the foundation for Goat.
The white metal next to the solar panels is a walkway covering the 4’ between the containers. It will be filled with concrete. The solar panels move
while the roof is installed.
1st roof panel of painted galvanized steel on a steel frame attached to the top of container.
More soon!
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advrider
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Looks solid to me and I like the look.
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mtgoat666
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Those 2 little bolts per corner (with angle racks?) look like they will shear off in first big earthquake.
Btw, they sell a pins that can be used to connect using the corner castings - could probably modify one to be a ground anchor.
You can also get roof kits that attach to the corner castings…
Woke!
“...ask not what your country can do for you – ask what you can do for your country.” “My fellow citizens of the world: ask not what America
will do for you, but what together we can do for the freedom of man.”
Prefered gender pronoun: the royal we
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RFClark
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Goat those bolts in the plates are 1/2” X 6” Titan concrete screws rated at 2,000lbs shear each they are in addition to the 1/2” 12” X 12”
steel plate and cage the container is welded to. There are 8 of each. The containers are attached to the foundation in other places too. Ultimately we
will pour a concrete floor in the garage that the 2 - 20’ containers will sit on.
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Bob and Susan
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one thing i would ALWAYS wonder is what was in those containers when they arrived from china
i wonder if the serial number on the container could be a clue?
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RFClark
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B & S,
The 2 upper containers are one trip containers. That means they were built primarily to sell for homes or storage. They usually contain autos on their
one trip over. Both are very clean on the inside.
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JDCanuck
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Thats an extremely ambitious project RFClark, have to admire your willingness to strike out in untested territory. It will really be something to see
it when completed. Way beyond my comfort zone.
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RFClark
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This is the 4th home we’ve built from scratch. All 4 have been different. That said there are things that you learn that help you in future
projects.
This is easer in some respects because there are skilled tradespeople in this area due to all the construction. We have a good crew. Overall costs can
be lower here. If you choose the correct materials.
Containers have strengths and weaknesses as do all types of construction. Mostly they need to be protected from rusting. If protected they will last
decades. Goat asked about attachment to the foundation so I went back and reviewed the technical information. Containers are able to withstand in
excess of 130mph winds and with proper foundations 150mph. Seems good for Cabo.
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Bob and Susan
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look what happened in florida and the keys with 150mph winds...
nothing survives...
and you have them stacked
as for a one trip container ... it will last 20 years
but all steel rusts
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surfhat
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Rust proofing can work wonders. As long as the rust proofing lasts. haha
There are some very creative uses being made of these containers, google them.
Good on RF for your home to be.
With the weight and welding, these are not going anywhere.
Once insulated, maybe blown foam?, and some elastomeric roof coating to reflect heat, these containers should provide a lifetime of reliability in all
weather conditions.
I built a tridy-foam ? structure on the east cape in the 90's because it was one of few buildings to survive Hurricane Andrew in south Florida. That,
along with the insulation properties of the foam core appeared to be better than the usual block technology at the time.
We now have insulated concrete blocks that accomplish close to the same thing as the foam panels. Are these foam panels still being used? I liked the
8" to 10" thick walls once the stucco was pumped on, inside and out.
Kudos RF. We will all look forward to the finished product. You can't have enough insulation down there, however you choose to address it.
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RFClark
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B&S,
Prior to the 1st Gulf War Iraq was concerned about the night vision capabilities of the US forces. They ran tests on their Russian equipment and
discovered that burning oil smoke did blind it. During the war they burned lots of oil and sure enough their equipment was blind. That said we all
know how that turned out.
The moral is that you shouldn’t judge other people’s skills and equipment by your skills and equipment!
All our exterior steel is coated and covered! I won’t last 20 years! The 130mph rating is for a 40’ high Cube sitting on the ground attached to
nothing. Attached to a foundation and stacked 4 high the rating is 150mph or more!
These plates are rated for 4 high stacking.
I didn't think that they were strong enough.
We built these. The plate is 1/2” steel. The cage is 5/8” rebar. There are 8 of them. They’re 24” long. The containers are welded to them.
They’re are other additional attach points now.
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