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MrBillM
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Such a Deal .........
Awhile back, many people on this forum (including myself) were purchasing Xpower 1500/3000 Inverters by Xantrex from Costco for $85.00. I ended up
buying (3) for neighbors plus my own. How good a deal is this ? I just received my 2005 catalog from Backwoods Solar and they have the Xpower series
in that issue, selling the 1500 for $300.00. Although Backwoods doesn't always have the best prices, all in all they're pretty good.
I'm stopping at Costco this weekend to see if they've got any left.
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bajalou
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They still had them about a week ago when I was there. I've been using one as my only inverter for 6-8 months now - everything great with it.
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oladulce
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My brain isn't working yet this morning to do the watt computations- what sort of things can you run off this inverter?
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meme
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We bought one at Costco in El Centro, Ca. two weeks ago for $85.
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bajaloco
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Invertors work on a 10 to 1 ratio. 12volts=120volts@1000 watts uses 10 amps off your 12volt source.
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Hook
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| Quote: | Originally posted by oladulce
My brain isn't working yet this morning to do the watt computations- what sort of things can you run off this inverter? |
There is more to this than just the appliances it will run. Battery capacity is also important. Best to run your engine while operating for anything
over a few minutes, at anything near the inverter's capacity.
Also, be sure and use DC cabling that is sized to the run length you need to make. If possible, make the DC run short and use a longer AC run. Also
much cheaper. Definitely use a large, inline fuse.
Also, it should be noted that you should mount these Xantrexs in locations that are protected from moisture and heat. They are most certainly subject
to moisture intrusion/corrosion as they have an internal fan. Also, heat (like an engine compartment) will reduce their efficiency. These
considerations will likely affect the length of the runs you need to make.
But, generally, this will run the average drip coffee maker or a smaller microwave that DRAWS (NOT THE SAME AS THE MICROWAVE EMITTER'S OUTPUT) less
than probably 1300 watts.
What these things dont work well on is the surge required by a larger motor at startup. It probably will not work well for an air conditioner that
might draw as low as 1300 watts.
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Baja Bernie
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Costco Online
They have four different ones available but not the one you mentioned. Different prices also.
http://www.costco.com/Common/Search.aspx?whse=&topnav=&a...
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Roberto
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| Quote: | Originally posted by bajaloco
Invertors work on a 10 to 1 ratio. 12volts=120volts@1000 watts uses 10 amps off your 12volt source. |
Actually, it will use approx 100 amps from our 12 volt source.
Amps = watts / volts. 1000 / 12 = 96. Add in 10% for inefficiency. So you can run a lot of stuff, but not for long unless you ahve some deep cycle
batteries.
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Dave
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| Quote: | | Originally posted by Roberto So you can run a lot of stuff, but not for long unless you ahve some deep cycle batteries.
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Deep cycle batteries actually don't handle high loads as well as car batteries. Their thicker plates reduce the amount of time that they can supply
high currents. The more load...the worse performance.
Deep cycle refers to the number of times they can be deeply discharged/recycled without damage, not greater capacity.
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Roberto
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Dave, you are technically correct, but impractically so. What I mean is that starting batteries are designed to deliver VERY high amperages (well
above 100 amps) for extremely short periods of time, and they do this very well. Deep cycle batteries are designed are, as you said, designed to
handle multiple deep-discharge cycles without the destruction of the battery. Because of the applications they are used in, they are typically much
larger capacity in terms of Ah ratings than starting batteries. An example would a "golf cart" battery, which is typically around 220 Ah, but a
starting battery would be (typically) around 70Ah. If you run a 1000W load (100 amps) for even five minutes you could bring a starting battery to it's
knees due to the lower capacity and low tolerance for deep-discharge cycles. Trust me on this one - been there and done that.
So, that's a lot of blather for the bottom line - expecting to use less than a pair of "golf cart" (they are 6V each) batteries for any serious
inverter application is going to leave you with a very dead battery.
I have a 1000W inverter installed in my truck. I often use it to make coffee with an electric coffee maker (900W), and I don't dare do it without
running the engine at the same time.
[Edited on 6-2-2005 by Roberto]
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meme
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It seems Costco does not show this particular inverter online, but they do have them in stores. In Ca. & Wa. for sure.
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oladulce
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Both of these are called the Xantrex 1500/3000 on various online sites. Does Costco have the one without the battery that you all have been happy
with?
Both are priced at $220-300 so the Costco price is a very good deal.
[Edited on 6-2-2005 by oladulce]
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MrBillM
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Without Battery
Yes, it is the unit without the battery and, Yes, it is a very good deal. I have two more neighbors now who are waiting to hear whether I can pick
them up.
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BajaNomad
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Stopped by the Carmel Mountain Costco in San Diego today and noticed two power inverters for sale. One was 400 continuous watts (cigarette lighter
plug), the other 1500 watts (connects to the vehicle battery, cables included).
$25 for the 400w
$85 (? - plus or minus 5 bucks) for the 1500w unit.
--
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pokey
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Yeah, the Costco on Morena has em in stock for the same price. 5 dozen eggs for $2.99 also
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A-OK
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Any electrical gurus out there that can help me with my customized installation of an inverter? I bought the Costco Xantrex 1500 and want to mount it
in my camper shell. I don't want it under the hood because of dust and moisture reasons.
I have a 1998.5 4x4 Dodge Ram 2500 24 valve QuadCab Longbed Cummins Turbo Diesel. I have two Optima red top batteries under the hood.
What size wire should I use?
Which battery do I run it off of?
What size fuse do I need to put inline?
Should I run an on/off marine style switch?
What things do you all run off of this inverter ( I know a lot of you have this same inverter)
Should I install a sealed battery in the camper shell and run the inverter off of that?...... Would the power of my round RV/fithwheel plug in the
bedrail of my truck work for me?
Any educated info would be appreciated. I would like to install it this week.
[Edited on 6-12-2005 by A-OK]
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Mexray
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lot's of Inverter questions...
When you start using/working with inverters...you need to get up close to 'Ohm's Law'...
http://www.angelfire.com/pa/baconbacon/page2.html
You can then anticipate what you'll need to run your 110 VAC stuff. You need to know what kind of total wattage you'll be running off your inverter.
If you tried to run it at it's full rated load (1500 watts) from a 12 VDC battery bank, you'd be using 125 AMPS ! (ohm's law - 1500/12=125).
At 125 amps, you'll be needing some big batteries and some big cables to move that many AMPS without heating up your wiring or burning something!
You won't probably won't be using that kind of current in your truck - but - you still need to add up your wattage demand and plan accordingly...look
on the labels of the AC stuff you want to run, and look for the WATTS indicated.
The more WATTS - the bigger the batteries and cables from the batteries to the inverter. Forget about those red-top Optimas - they aren't crap for
running your inverter! Even the DEEP CYCLE Optima's aren't very good for inverter's - they are only rated at 55 AMP Hours - won't run any real load
for very long. Say you were running a 150 watt TV - with the DC Optima, that's only about 4 hours till stone dead!
The typical AMP Hour ratings of the popular sized batteries (flooded cell) we handle in our battery shop in Stockton are:
12 volts:
Group 24 DC = 90 AH (10 inch long)
Group 27 DC = 105 AH (12 inch long)
Group 31 DC = 135 AH (13 inch long)
6 volts: (used in pairs, in series for 12 volt service)
GC2 DC = 225 AH (10L x 7W x 11-1/2H)(Golf Car size)
There are others, but these are the most common, and you get the most AH's for your money. If you go for AGM (absorbed glass mat) type 'sealed'
batteries, you can figure on about 3 x the cost of flooded cell batteries - AND - about 10-15% LESS of an AH rating in the same battery size.
I use the GC2 (golf car) 6 volt's in any inverter applications that I can accommodate. You get the most AH for the 'buck'. They weight about 63 lbs
each, and cost around $150/pair these days...at 225 Amp Hr - your 150 watt TV would run for about 18 hours - till discharged.
Another note...don't forget, the AMPS you use out of your batteries, have to be replaced at some point to make them usable again...depending on what
kind of amperage your engine's alternator 'actually' can provide for recharging, it can take a bunch of hours if you let your inverter's batteries get
too low!
An AMP Hour = 1 AMP on a charger (alternator) for ONE HOUR! If your Alt can pump an honest 40 AMPS, and your 225 AH batteries are dead, you are
looking at 6 - 8 hours to charge them all the way back up again! Your alternator will be going full-tilt, for about 80% of that time.
There's just no 'free lunch' - what you take out, has to go back in!
Again, use only true DEEP CYCLE batteries for your inverter - they have thicker plates and special separators between the plates to hold things in
place better than 'starting' type batteries. Keep you batteries as close to the inverter as possible to keep voltage loss at a minimum - the longer
the run, the bigger the cables have to be, etc.
You might also check on the Internet for inverter information, as you will find valuable info on cable size, fuses, etc.
Let me know if you have other questions...
According to my clock...anytime is \'BAJA TIME\' & as Jimmy Buffett says,
\"It doesn\'t use numbers or moving hands It always just says now...\"
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TMW
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Normal enclosed wiring size and current ratings.
15 amps- size 14 gauge copper wire.
20 amps- size 12 gauge.
50 amps- size 6 gauge.
100 amps- size 1 gauge.
125 amps- size 1/0 gauge.
This is for enclosed copper wiring like in a house wall. Open wiring and automotive uses often are smaller, but I would stick to the enclosed values.
If possible keep the high current runs short, like the battery to inverter.
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Roberto
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| Quote: | Originally posted by A-OK
Any electrical gurus out there that can help me with my customized installation of an inverter? I bought the Costco Xantrex 1500 and want to mount it
in my camper shell. I don't want it under the hood because of dust and moisture reasons.
I have a 1998.5 4x4 Dodge Ram 2500 24 valve QuadCab Longbed Cummins Turbo Diesel. I have two Optima red top batteries under the hood.
What size wire should I use?
Which battery do I run it off of?
What size fuse do I need to put inline?
Should I run an on/off marine style switch?
What things do you all run off of this inverter ( I know a lot of you have this same inverter)
Should I install a sealed battery in the camper shell and run the inverter off of that?...... Would the power of my round RV/fithwheel plug in the
bedrail of my truck work for me?
Any educated info would be appreciated. I would like to install it this week.
[Edited on 6-12-2005 by A-OK] |
For wire sizes, check this: http://www.westmarine.com/pdf/0660_ETRIC_MC04.pdf .
For fuse size, I would use an ANL fuse, sized thus: nominal watts of the inverter / 10, + 20-50%. e.g. 1000 watt inverter = 120-150 amp fuse.
As far as the fiver plug, you should answer that by looking the chart in the above link and inspecting the size of the wiring used by the plug.
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meme
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Oh YES! I thought Roberto would be along here soon to answer all this? Good JoB Roberto!
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