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calacowboy
Junior Nomad
Posts: 43
Registered: 5-5-2004
Location: ca
Member Is Offline
Mood: wondering....
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BOLA is not a gringo enclave
My guide said it best, ? Even for someone that lives here, everyday on the water is different.? For me, this was the first time I had been on a
panga without even trying to catch a fish. I felt kind of weird getting up at 6 am and no fishing poles. Well, I had promised to do the ?ECO
Tour? with my long time friend who is a bird watching fanatic. Anything for your friends, right? The guide, Joel Prieto, who lives across from
the museum, said that the previous couple of days were windy and rough with only bottom fish being caught. Luckily, today the sea was like glass.
He took his new 26 foot center console panga on a sweep of the lower bay by geko camp looking for whale sharks(never found any). I had never
noticed how many people had houses in the southern part of the bay past Geko. Schools of barracuda, needle fish chasing sardines, and then 2 or 3
finback whales. What a sight to see. In the next 6 hours I don?t think I ever saw so much marine life. Like FishinRich said in his fishing report ?
BOLA is alive.? We went to the seal colony island and just watched at least fifty seals barking at us. And then the dolphins(common &
bottlenose) jumping all around the boat. I tried to get a picture of them leaping in the air, but couldn?t. ( When I got home there was a new(Oct)
Adventure magazine with a perfect picture of dolphins jumping. Good story and pics on Baja). The rest of the time was spent either bird watching or
snorkeling. Joel gave us the grand tour of Bahia?s waters. Many, many picture perfect spots that I have never seen while fishing. I got to admit, it
was a day I won?t soon forget.
The following day we drove to La Gringa. The moon was full and the tide was very high at 1pm. We snorkeled for about 3 hours in the inner small bay
on the end of the hook. Saw many different fish: puffers that nipped at our feet, small yellowtail chasing thousands of translucent bait fish,
Damselfishes, Porkfish, grunts, and Sargent Majors. The strangest site had to be tiny flying fish leaping out of the water from some unseen predator.
We spent the rest of afternoon watching the diving pelicans and soaring boobys. Two great days in a row.
Other high lights.
That our guide seemed equally amazed at all the marine life we saw in one day.
Eating at Taqueria Cartaret, good fish tacos& tortas, but it?s the salsas the make the difference, I was breathing fire.
Getting gas at BOLA, yeah
Watching my friend see the Sea of Cortez for the first time from the hill as you drive to BOLA.
A very good dinner at Rachel &Larry?s
Talking at length to a couple who had sold it all and were living on their sailboat. Truly fascinating to hear their tales traveling up & down the
SOC. They said they were waiting out hurricane season in bola ?just in case?. They also said the next time we were in Santa Rosalia to ?get the best
hot dogs on the planet?
Going to the museum, very worth seeing. My friends business is museum exhibits & he was very impressed.
Tide pools way south of Erendira
Saw two grey whales at the mouth of the Bay of San Quintin. We were having breakfast burritos at Gypsys, and this couple says ? Have you seen the
whales in the bay??(me)no, where? ?Follow the road in front of Gypsys all the way to the tip(north).? Sure enough, after waiting about ? hour,
thinking we were taken for a ride, whoooose, blowhole water in the air. Pretty amazing, my first two whales seen in the wild in one trip to Baja. It?s
magic, I tell you.
A few low lights
At the military inspection north of El Rosario, a soldier helping himself to our cooler. What are you going to do about it, gringo?
The fact that Joel didn?t remember who I was after 18 months and 100?s of other clients. (Very understandable)
[Edited on 9-29-2005 by calacowboy]
[Edited on 9-29-2005 by calacowboy]
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64526
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Wonderful trip report... Nobody who has spent more than a few hours there would call it a gringo anything... It is a small town of Mexican fishermen
and those in the business of showing visitors a good time with several types of business (panga rides, great food eateries, nice places to stay,
etc.). A great Baja location... Bay of Angels, for sure!
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As for your encounter at El Rosario's mesa checkpoint:
Please provide all the details you can of the soldier and the time/date of the incident.
Antonio (Baja Cactus Pemex/Motel) knows the comandante in San Quintin who wants none of this from his troops!
A camera was lifted when the checkpoint was south of town, at the Punta San Carlos turnoff, and it was recovered (I was with Antonio when he met with
the comandante)...
Was your ice chest stolen or just something from inside it... and where those his actual words? He called you a gringo?
[Edited on 9-28-2005 by David K]
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calacowboy
Junior Nomad
Posts: 43
Registered: 5-5-2004
Location: ca
Member Is Offline
Mood: wondering....
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No, no one ever called me a gringo, just a little embellishment on my part. He did ask what was in my cooler, and then helped himself to our Trader
Joe apple juice. Didn't touch the beer or soda. His exact words were something like "I will have this now?" He spoke english.
Technically he asked, and I said alright. Why pee him off, and get a full cavity search. My friend was pretty upset (rookie), but I don't really
mind, just consider it a travling tax.
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thebajarunner
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3687
Registered: 9-8-2003
Location: Arizona....."Free at last from crumbling Cali
Member Is Offline
Mood: muy amable
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We always offer them something cold to drink, even before they ask.
We also try to sort through all the camping food (and sometimes more serious libations that Baja Vida selects) and hand them out to the guys.
Hey, take the initiative, you will feel better about giving a bit, and will probably head off a more serious "grab"
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Sharksbaja
Elite Nomad
Posts: 5814
Registered: 9-7-2004
Location: Newport, Mulege B.C.S.
Member Is Offline
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It's only an enclave if you make it one, as is anywhere else.
I found Tootsie Roll paletas work wonders on young soldiers.
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Mexray
Super Nomad
Posts: 1016
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: California Delta
Member Is Offline
Mood: Baja Time
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We never hand out drinks...
...at the military checkpoints. They are supposed to be professionals doing a job, and I just don't see the need to hand out stuff that may tend to
make them think they can get stuff from any foreigners. Do you see the need to offer drinks to the officials at the border crossings?
We do however, always offer cool drinks to the guys we meet out in middle of nowhere working on the roads. Those guys always seem to be very
appreciative of the gesture, and need a cool drink more that the military guys.
According to my clock...anytime is \'BAJA TIME\' & as Jimmy Buffett says,
\"It doesn\'t use numbers or moving hands It always just says now...\"
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Bajaboy
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4375
Registered: 10-9-2003
Location: Bahia Asuncion, BCS, Mexico
Member Is Offline
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I completely agree with Mexray. I have been asked for items before and I usually politely say no. On the otherhand, I am more than generous with
those less fortunate.
zac
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roverdude
Junior Nomad
Posts: 74
Registered: 10-1-2005
Location: Garden Grove
Member Is Offline
Mood: No Bad Days, Mornings Maybe...
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I don't mean to hijack this thread OR call anyone stingy. But if you can spare a cold water for a soldier, in a uniform, in the hot sun... aren't you
doing a good deed?
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Sharksbaja
Elite Nomad
Posts: 5814
Registered: 9-7-2004
Location: Newport, Mulege B.C.S.
Member Is Offline
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Is he thirsty? End of message.
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JZ
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9314
Registered: 10-3-2003
Member Is Online
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"I had never noticed how many people had houses in the southern part of the bay past Geko."
About how many houses.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64526
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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That is former Baja Air Service pilot/owner Francisco Munoz' property. He built the runway there, the north end begins next to Gecko's south property
line.
Here is one of the photos I have showing Munoz (on the left) at one of Erle Stanley Gardner's campos with Mexico's archeologist Dr. Carlos Margain.
Gardner had Munoz fly Margain to San Ignacio so he could examin the enormous cave murals Gardner 're-discovered'. Actually they did find new paintings
from their helicopters that were not visible from the canyon floor.
[Edited on 10-11-2005 by David K]
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calacowboy
Junior Nomad
Posts: 43
Registered: 5-5-2004
Location: ca
Member Is Offline
Mood: wondering....
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| Quote: |
About how many houses.
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I would estimate about 10 -15 buildings, including a dome house, and a church-like building(?) Joel said it was mostly seasonal people that lived
there.
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jrbaja
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4863
Registered: 2-2-2003
Member Is Offline
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Mexican fishermen
and their families, of course!
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calacowboy
Junior Nomad
Posts: 43
Registered: 5-5-2004
Location: ca
Member Is Offline
Mood: wondering....
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All I know is what I saw in the limited time I spent there. In town, all the motels, camping, restarants, fishing rentals, museum,and stores were run
by Mexicans who spoke very little English. It was one of the hardest places for me to comunicate. I speak broken Spanglish, but my wife speaks Spanish
very well, but wasn't with me on this trip. In my admittedly limited travels in Baja, this was the most Mexican town, set up to cater to tourists.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64526
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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| Quote: | Originally posted by calacowboy
All I know is what I saw in the limited time I spent there. In town, all the motels, camping, restarants, fishing rentals, museum,and stores were run
by Mexicans who spoke very little English. It was one of the hardest places for me to comunicate. I speak broken Spanglish, but my wife speaks Spanish
very well, but wasn't with me on this trip. In my admittedly limited travels in Baja, this was the most Mexican town, set up to cater to tourists.
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Exactly!
Francisco Munoz' property (that has some vacation homes on it) is 5 miles south of the town of Bahia de los Angeles (the Mexican fishermen village)...
Much farther than La Barca is from Rosarito Beach, yes???
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jrbaja
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4863
Registered: 2-2-2003
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I guess the difference would be David
that I don't try and pretend that Rosarito isn't set up for tourism. It's 1/2 hour from the border so we have easy access to both worlds.
Quote from Cala:
"In my admittedly limited travels in Baja, this was the most Mexican town, set up to cater to tourists."
And I understand that many people would see BOLA as a very Mexican town. ( They even have Mexicans there.) Especially if their travels in Baja are
very limited, like Cala and David K.
But as far as it being a Mexican fishing village, it is the most well known of the enclaves I have ever heard of down here. And that started long
before it's publicity through the Nomads.
But, it is beautiful like most spots in Baja, it's a great place to feel safe, it has most anything the gringos need including internet, and
obviously, many of you will be retiring there.
Excellent! But, be prepared for some surprises in the future, like any of the popular gringo places.
As far as Rosarito goes, Dk continues to voice opinions, but he's just a tourist who doesn't know much about anything here in Baja. Other than what
he's picked up on a few weekends and vacations here. Thus the constant wrong info..
After living here for a while, as well as down south, and traveling the entire peninsula regularly, you tend to see things a little more
realistically than what you pick up on a few vacations here.
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bahiamia
Nomad
Posts: 143
Registered: 12-16-2004
Location: Bahia de los Angeles
Member Is Offline
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I have lived in Bahia for going on 18 years now...I feel so very fortunate for my life to have to have taken the paths that it did and that they
brought me to one of the most beautiful places in the world and to some of the most beautiful people as well.
I have also been fortunate enough as well to have travelled to many places up and down the peninsula. My husband made sure of that, and we had the
most amazing times. Spoke only Spanish on our trips for the most part too, except when conversing with each other in either German or English.
The truth of the matter is that there are not nearly, not even CLOSE the amount of "Gringos" living here even part time, as compared to say a San
Felipe. And yes it IS basically a small fishing village. It was not that long ago that in order to make a phone call, you were looking at a 2 1/2
hour drive one way to do so. There is still not 24 Hour electricity in town, except what your own private system will provide.
But whatever your personal opinion is on someplace, JR, one should never feel discouraged by you not to visit there just because you don't personally
happen to like it. Had I listened to someone like you, and passed Bahia by, I would have missed out not only on the love of my life, but all the
adventures, travels, tears, laughter, FRIENDS, and everything else that has made my life here so memorable.
Here are some photos of the Bahia I see everyday:
[Edited on 10-11-2005 by bahiamia]
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thebajarunner
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3687
Registered: 9-8-2003
Location: Arizona....."Free at last from crumbling Cali
Member Is Offline
Mood: muy amable
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Mia, your fotos and your words are eloquent.
I have no idea why in the world that we have to defend the ambience of your home town.
Seems like only one person here "has it in for Bahia" and I cannot imagine why that is.... (mebbe he got bitten by a street perro there)
Anyway, Baja Vida and I are looking forward to once again sitting on your patio and enjoying a quiet chat and a cold cerveza.
You and your town are both most gracious...
(and yes, I have driven the peninsula countless times, been to villages and beaches and ports on all sides, and yes, I enjoy BahiaLA)
Muy amable, amiga....
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comitan
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4177
Registered: 3-27-2004
Location: La Paz
Member Is Offline
Mood: mellow
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| Quote: | Originally posted by jrbaja
that I don't try and pretend that Rosarito isn't set up for tourism. It's 1/2 hour from the border so we have easy access to both worlds.
Quote from Cala:
"In my admittedly limited travels in Baja, this was the most Mexican town, set up to cater to tourists."
And I understand that many people would see BOLA as a very Mexican town. ( They even have Mexicans there.) Especially if their travels in Baja are
very limited, like Cala and David K.
But as far as it being a Mexican fishing village, it is the most well known of the enclaves I have ever heard of down here. And that started long
before it's publicity through the Nomads.
But, it is beautiful like most spots in Baja, it's a great place to feel safe, it has most anything the gringos need including internet, and
obviously, many of you will be retiring there.
Excellent! But, be prepared for some surprises in the future, like any of the popular gringo places.
As far as Rosarito goes, Dk continues to voice opinions, but he's just a tourist who doesn't know much about anything here in Baja. Other than what
he's picked up on a few weekends and vacations here. Thus the constant wrong info..
After living here for a while, as well as down south, and traveling the entire peninsula regularly, you tend to see things a little more
realistically than what you pick up on a few vacations here. |
JR.
I think you should reconsider your criticism of David K, For one He Helps an awful lot of nomads traveling to Baja, don't question this he does.
You in turn go farther south to the way out villages and help with school supplies and any other donations you might have.
And the fact that you have different goals does not give you the right to always criticise him for what he does.
Strive For The Ideal, But Deal With What\'s Real.
Every day is a new day, better than the day before.(from some song)
Lord, Keep your arm around my shoulder and your hand over my mouth.
“The sincere pursuit of truth requires you to entertain the possibility that everything you believe to be true may in fact be false”
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64526
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Thank you so much Mia... Great photos of the 'gringo enclave' (not!)....
JR, you are given so many opportunaties to redeem your peey attitude here and you still don't want to belong to this 'family', but you keep coming to
'the dinner table'...
I also do not understand the need you have to constantly discredit me or my contributions here... I guess it is only you who sees my trip reports are
being false...? Funny how so many others find my posts usefull and accurate?? Does it make you feel good to do this? Can you go through my trip
reports and web pages and list all the incorrect data with the correct data... I will be happy to correct any wrong information, and give you credit
for finding the errors!!!
So, you see me as an "occaisional tourist"??? One who has been traveling to Baja hundreds of times since 1965 (and driving on the peninsula myself
since I was 16, in '74), published two road guides and numerous magazine articles, and since '99, contributing on Internet web sites... I don't see
myself as an occaisional tourist like that, at all!
Let's see, you live 20 miles closer to Tijuana than I do, and somehow that gives you so much greater qualifications to provide travel info. on the
entire peninsula???
Well, then WHY don't you??? Instead, you jump in after others have taken the time to share their trips here and call them names... THAT'S really not
too productive jr!!!
Honestly jr, we all have tried to be your friend... shared beers, food, brought you some donations, asked to to stop the name calling here, offered to
match funds raised to give up to $5,000 dollars to a small village... You have snubbed all of these...
I do not know what more can be done to please you on Nomad... You are like North Korea vs. the U.S. ... Offer after offer, gift after gift, and
nothing pleases you or will make you want to be friendly. Are you affraid once you are nice, then all the attention you receive is going to stop? I
think a little positive attention is more valuable than all this negative attention...
But I am no psychiatrist... you will have to get one on your own...
Best wishes to you... and I do hope you will open your eyes and realize you would cause much more good to happen by being nice, than being nasty...
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