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Vermonter
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A trip into the Baja from a Vermonters view
Hello everyone! I've been in the shadows out here enjoying all of your postings.
I figure it's time to share. I have some photos which I will follow up with.
David
We?re not in VT anymore honey!
What an adventure for a family from Vermont. I started doing some investigating about a month before headeding out to the west coast when I came
across this site. As I started reading I noticed a member that looked like a seasoned visitor to the area David K., so I decided to email him. With in
hours I was talking with him and a friend of his, that owned a motel which I had also read about in many of the postings on here, (Antonio) from The
Baja Cactus. Well I then passed on my comfort to my wife, whom was not keen on the whole idea. One of the big reasons was that our son has hemophilia
and we needed to bring our expensive IV drugs for him every where we went to treat him prophalticly. Well I knew we had the border as a possible twist
and then the check points as well, but I just kept saying ?we can do this, I know we can do this.? Finally I convinced her and she said ?I trust
you?. One thing we have always tried to do was to live life and do things like normal families and to not let this disease lead our lives. I?m not
saying we need to push the envelope each day but just ride a bit on the edge to give him the confidence & support he?ll need later in life.
Well this was the perfect venue, we were headed to SD for a National Hemophilia Conference and our trip down into Baja was the week prior to this.
Perfect, something we could share with other families and give them the idea they to could do something as adventurous as leaving the country with a
young child with this rare health issue, and go into a remote area such as the Baja.
We began the first day in SD by hitting the Zoo, this was a big one on my son?s list. I knew he?d be up for more adventures after experiencing this.
Sure enough the following day was with out disappointment. After picking up a Jeep 4X4 rental we headed south on I-5 for the border. We stopped by
that K-Mart at the last exit and stocked up on supplies. The next part was interesting, as a seasoned border crosser into Canada I fully expected to
find it similar. As we passed the fellows who waved us on I suddenly realized we had crossed over. I said, ?Oh no I think we just passed where we were
to pick up our tourist card.? So along the border wall we drove up the hill and tried to figure out how we were going to turn around and get back to
stop and obtain our cards. It wasn?t long after we made our way back and had our cards in hand and were following the signs for the Cuota Scenic Rd
south. We started out toward the oceans edge and through the tolls and started noticing the ocean below. What a site, we were like deer in the
headlights of an oncoming car. It was spectacular!
Our first night was not far to the town of Ensenada there we had ample time to explore some of the shops and walk along the waters boardwalk and
enjoy the fishing boats. The next morning we were off to La Bufadora. This was an interesting side trip, as we arrived, there were a number of busses
from the cruse ship which had arrived in the early AM in Ensenada, we walk down to the blow hole which was filled with tourist. It was a bit over
cast but the spray was impressive. This was our first fish taco stand which hooked us for the rest of our stay. We talked to several of the tourists
and as we explained we were not part of one of the ships, they were amazed we drove down and were heading further into the Baja.
We made our way back out to 1 and headed south. Thou the towns became smaller, and the road started to get a bit narrower, it definitely got more
interesting. When we came to the first check point and were routed around I noticed the militaria going through the vehicles headed north, at that
point we were a bit concerned but said well we?ll deal with that when we return. The crops being picked for shipment where always a guessing game as
well as what was being sold beside the road along the way.
Finally we made it into El Rosario and actually almost passed by The Baja Cactus, our destination for the next several days. As we pulled in and I
went to the front desk I asked for Antonio but unfortunately we had just missed him by 10min. We walked down to Mama Espinosa?s for a bite to eat and
back up to check in.
The fellow at the desk, Manuel, was as friendly and hospitable as you could find. He proudly took us up to show us our room where we were in awe of
the size and quality of craftsmanship. This was all ours for the next three nights. I asked if David K was around but he had not returned. That night
I even received a phone call from Antonio apologizing for missing us and welcoming us to El Rosario. Now that?s what I call a hospitable host!
The next morning I got to meet David and Baja Angel as he gave us several day trips to chose from, we followed his lead. The beach the first day, down
to Punta Baja (the fishing village) and south to see the cactus forests.
The beach was an experience after making the right at the corner and out west of town I kept asking myself is this the right way? Well we just kept on
driving up in the hills when out of nowhere comes a truck from CA I stopped him and asked if I was headed the right way his reply ?just ahead turn
left on the river bed and follow my tracks? so that?s what we did, over rocks, down into the washouts and through the water holes.. When we hit the
dunes, all we could say was ?Way Cool?.
First thing we did was a bit of exploring and then it was time to rig up the fishing poles. We had so much fun as the water crashed over the large
flat rock which we fished from. Later that afternoon we headed south down into the dry desert land. The famed Boojum cactus were amazing, we also
enjoyed seeing the large armed Cardon cactus for miles in the distance, like a forest of skeletons. We had dinner with Mama again that night where she
took my son into her kitchen to show him the large lobsters. I of course had to check them out WOW!, so I knew what I was having for dinner. The next
morning after talking with Mama (in her back room) and some other folks we decided to head back over toward the beach and look for some rocks and
maybe some fossils, then it was off to Punta Baja to see the fishing village. It was so beautiful out there. As we arrived we noticed a panga way out
beyond the tall waves. Now these waves where a good 10-12 feet tall and jagged rocks just under the surface everywhere. Then all of a sudden we
noticed the two fishermen open up the throttle and start zinging and zaging toward the shoreline all I could think was suicide, at the last moment one
the fellows pulls the motor up and they leap into the air and travel about 30 feet up onto the rocky steep embankment. My son and I looked at each
other in utter amazement shaking our heads saying ?Did that just really happen?? One fellow jumps out runs up to an old truck parked there and ties a
heavy rope to the hitch and proceeds to pull the boat up another 20 yards over the rocks and sand to rest beside several others. We stayed the whole
day on the point to enjoy the sun, fish and explore. On our way to dinner, we were side tracked to Kim?s rock shop where she shared her finds with us
and then it was down to eat at Primo?s . He was very gracious giving each of us shells as we swapped stories. The food was amazing and hot!
Our last day we awoke to gather our belongings and head back north, not wanting to leave The Baja Cactus Motel, but we had prior commitments. The
first check point, I was a bit anxious, but it went very smooth, I just wanted to make sure I was doing what the officer wanted me to and after
getting out letting him check through the front opening the back and searching it we were free to go. As I stood by the jeep I noticed in the next
lane the fellows probing with a long rod a truck loaded with bails of hay, I didn?t hear any yelps. Just after that I wasn?t thinking but we headed up
the road and passed the corners where David told me to turn to go over to see La Lobera (the sea lion crater). I turned back around and watched for
the 47-48 marker on the road and turned west. After a bit of a ride, I found the left turn and headed south until we came to the gate and large sign.
My wife turns to me and says are you sure? I said it?s just as David described so down into the valley floor and back up until we had a view that was
unbelievable. We drove up to the building on stilts and a fellow runs up to welcome us, I hand him a couple of pesos and he points to the fenced in
area where we walk over to peer down inside to see a dozen or more sea lions laying. It was a bit over cast that day but still a stunning sight. Well
It was time to get back on the road and head north. Our last stop was in Ensenada for some fish tacos and a few tourist items. We made the border
about 5:30 or so and didn?t have to wait long. The fellow was incredibly nice as we approached asking us if we had a good time where we went etc?
never asking for our passports or anything, his parting comment was ?Welcome back?
What a trip, I know it has strengthened us all experiencing a magical land that will be forever embedded in our memories.
Baja through the eyes of a VERMONT family.
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Vermonter
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Registered: 11-17-2005
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A few photos
Ensenada ------ Nice Flag!
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Vermonter
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He said he saw Jaws!
Some of the color of the port
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Vermonter
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Looking toward El Rosario Beach
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Vermonter
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On The Beach
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Vermonter
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Looking down onto La Bufadora
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Vermonter
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Out in front of Mama Espinosa's
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Vermonter
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Along side the road--- Peppers!
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Vermonter
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Looking out onto Punta Baja
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Vermonter
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Did you see what I just saw?
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Vermonter
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Nice catch boys!
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Vermonter
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Looking back toward El Rosario
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TMW
Select Nomad
Posts: 10659
Registered: 9-1-2003
Location: Bakersfield, CA
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What a wonderful trip and report and pictures. Now you know what the rest of us feel when we cross that border.
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Vermonter
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The Cactus "Just like in VT"
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Vermonter
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The Waves out at La Lobera
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Vermonter
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Your right TW I can certainly understand how it would be easy to catch the Fever!
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64526
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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FANTASTIC!!!!
I am so very happy you found a few of the special things that attract us Baja Nomads/ or crazy Baja nuts to the magic peninsula.
It was a pleasure to provide a few ideas for your trip and I am thrilled it turned out so successful.
Now, the big problem is you have exposed yourself to the 'Baja bug' and may have a case of 'Baja fever'!! There is NO CURE!!! The only thing you can
do is provide treatment. Do you know what the treatment for Baja fever is??? THAT'S RIGHT, repeated trips to BAJA!!!
By the way, that photo at La Lobera of the waves crashing is great!!
It was good meeting you folks, come back soon!!
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tehag
Super Nomad
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Registered: 1-8-2005
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Vermonters
Nice photos, nice report. A credit to this forum all around.
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Vermonter
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The Magic of the Baja
Your so right David, it truly is a magical place. I know if I lived closer than a couple thousand miles, I'd be there exploreing the vast beauty of
that part of the world.
I want to again thank you, and all of you folks for providing me with such an in-depth view of your world. I know my family & I wouldn't have
experienced the thrill we did with out this board giving us the empowerment we felt going down.
Just as an update we conferenced with our sons teacher last week and she was overwhelmed with what our son had absorbed of the land & culture in
that area. I guess not only did he have her but all his classmates engaged in some real fascinating talks about "The Baja"
One thing she was glad I didn't let him bring in the live scorpion we found up one of the canyons 
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BornFisher
Super Nomad
Posts: 2103
Registered: 1-11-2005
Location: K-38 Santa Martha/Encinitas
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GREAT REPORT!!
Thanks for it and best wishes to you and your family.
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