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Author: Subject: Loreto's natural beauty rivals tourist amenities
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[*] posted on 2-11-2006 at 03:36 PM
Loreto's natural beauty rivals tourist amenities


http://www.insidebayarea.com/turn2/ci_3147229

Robert A. Dunton
1/31/2006

LORETO, BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR, Mexico - After we clocked 2,500 miles crisscrossing the Baja Peninsula, one town stood out: Loreto. Having slept through much of the bigger-is-better development of past decades, this fishing village in the Mexican desert has retained its rustic charm.
Activities abound: Kayaking and fishing in the Sea of Cortez. Exploring historic missions. Diving with sea lions and manta rays in Loreto's National Marine Park.

With the more sustainable approach to tourism in vogue these days, many of Loreto's natural attractions may survive its imminent growth.

Loreto is one of five destinations under the thumb of FONATUR, Mexico's national tourism development agency. The others are Cancun, Ixtapa, Huatulco and Los Cabos.

"The goal is to develop Loreto into a tourist project that doesn't repeat the mistakes of Cancun and Cabo," said Peter Maxwell, director of FONATUR in Loreto. "Our intention is not to be another Cabo, rather to develop a unique Loreto with more options."

I learned what he meant firsthand on a requisite stop in Cabo San Lucas, about 360 miles south of Loreto, a six-hour drive. Cabo has become a tousled mish-mash of insulated resorts and decaying infrastructure where much of its original allure has faded.

"The Loreto project actually started 25 years ago," Maxwell said. "However, budgets and political priorities had left the area on the sidelines for much of that time, with more emphasis on the established destinations. The Mexican government and FONATUR were already committed with previous heavy investment in the area, and since tourism, especially sustainable tourism, is a national priority, it seemed obvious to finish the Loreto project."

On a recent visit, my girlfriend, Priscilla, and I decided to explore Loreto's natural wonders while staying at one of FONATUR's newer resorts, Camino Real, in the development of Nopol. When the airport van pulled off Mexico 1 5 miles south of Loreto, it was clear that Nopol was still in its infancy despite breaking ground in 1976. Though its gracious meridians hosted palm trees and bougainvillea (part of the "heavy investment" Maxwell had mentioned), the streets were lined with acres of undeveloped lots, a few scattered homes and an 18-hole golf course. Images of an early coastal Palm Springs or Scottsdale sprang to mind.

Though Camino Real is surrounded by a golf course, palm trees and Zen-like cactus gardens, it is an oasis of civilization in an otherwise unaltered landscape. Waking early our first morning, we watched the sun cast a lavender glow over the desert. Calm water lapped on the beach while flocks of pelicans fished offshore. Sea lions swam near the resort's small lagoon, and pilot whales spouted on the horizon.

So far, the low-impact approach to development seemed to be working. But what were Loreto's plans for the sea - both in promoting and protecting it?

"Puerto Escondido (a marina development 10 miles south of Loreto) will be one of the key 'steps' in the Escalera Nautica program, another national priority for the Vicente Fox administration," Maxwell said.

The Escalera Nautica, "Nautical Ladder" or "Nautical Steps," is a government-backed program to develop 22 marinas around the Baja peninsula so boaters will always be within a day's journey of a marina.

Within 20 miles of Loreto lie the islands of Monserrate, Catalina, Coronado, Danzante and Carmen. To preserve the surrounding sea, marine life and islands, Loreto's National Marine Park was founded in 1996. At 1,282 square miles, the park stretches from the north side of Coronado Island to the south end of Catalina Island, and places restrictions on commercial fishing and development on the islands.

After breakfast, we decided to explore the Marine Park and strolled 50 yards to a beachfront dive shack owned by Arturo's Sportfishing. Thirty minutes later, a blue-and-white panga (an open-bow fishing boat) pulled up on the sandy beach, Baja's version of door-to-door service.

Our guide, Victor Vargas, had a sturdy frame, an easy smile and air of comfort around the water. As we motored out, he described his encounters from more than 1,000 dives in the Sea of Cortez: a school of shy hammerhead sharks, collections of mantas, groups of sea lions, whales and marlin viewed from below. He told tales of kayak excursions from Loreto to La Paz, camping on islands and living off the sea.

Thirty minutes later, we were hugging the dramatic shoreline of Coronado Island. Spires of lava rock polished smooth by the sea jutted out of the water. Stunning stone formations melded into the burnt-sienna desertscape dotted with Baja's signature flora.

Victor and I strapped on masks and tanks and dove around Piedra Blanca, "white rock," named for its year-round "snow cover" courtesy of the local pelicans and sea gulls. We glided among schools of yellow- and-black barberfish. Large sea scallops were anchored on the rock face next to multicolored starfish and sea stars, anemones and gorgonian fans.

After a 45-minute dive, we boated around the island. The rocky coast gave way to white sand and Caribbean blue water. We pulled up next to three palm-draped palapas that provided shade on an expansive beach. A pair of red and yellow kayaks rested on the sand along with six people.

Priscilla and I took a hike on an annotated nature trail, and were stunned at the vast array of plants that thrived in the harsh desert climate. We snorkeled at a nearby reef, helped a beached puffer fish find its way back to the sea, then flopped onto the sand for a nap in the mild, springtime sun.

As we traveled back to our hotel, we asked Victor if he could take us into town. Priscilla had never seen Loreto, eaten a fish taco in Baja, nor explored a mission. From the boat I pointed toward the landmark tower of Misin Nuestra Seora de Loreto, the first mission in the Californias, just as a pilot whale blew a puff of water near shore.

Loreto's mission is the cornerstone of the town's historic center. It is surrounded by a history museum, plaza, city hall and the colonial-style Posada de las Flores hotel. As we explored, I guided Priscilla toward my favorite taco stand for lunch: McLulu's. Owner Lourdes "Lulu" Armendriz was on hand with a generous smile and a wide variety of fish tacos, chorizo burritos and other tasty fare.

We shopped at the boutiques that lined a long walkway shaded beneath arches of sculpted ficus trees. Casa de la Abuela, a store located in a 200-year-old adobe house, overflowed with hand-embroidered shirts, fresh vanilla extract, leather goods, brightly painted ceramics, dried puffer fish and shells. Outside, we passed a sign declaring the plaza the Silver Desert, alluding to the half-dozen stores full of handcrafted silver.

Ready to return to Nopol, we hired a taxi. The battered Ford station wagon smelled mildly of gas and had an LED-flashing stereo playing upbeat '70s music just shy of loud. As we made the 5-mile trip down Mexico 1, we cracked the windows and watched dusk envelop the desert.

Was this desert slated for condos? Would high-rise hotels line the shore and pollute the waters? The Mexican government has already done much to preserve Loreto's surrounding environment. If FONATUR stays true to its commitment of sustainable development, there's a good chance the area's charm will survive its planned growth. Developed wisely, its charms might even be enhanced.

----------------------------------------

If you go

Getting there: Loreto is 715 miles south of the border at San Diego and 830 miles south of Los Angeles via Mexico 1, a well-paved two-lane highway.

Daily Aeromexico flights leave Los Angeles International Airport at 1:05 p.m. It is a two-hour flight.

Where to stay

Camino Real Resort has two pools, a beachfront location and the area's best golf (which isn't great). All-inclusive packages are from $140 to $250. Blvd. Mision de Loreto, Nopol, Loreto, Baja California Sur, CP 23880; telephone 800-873-7484; www.loretobaja.com.

The Colonial-style Hotel Posada De Las Flores is the finest hotel in the heart of Loreto. Rates of $140-$199 double occupancy include breakfast. Salvatierra Esq. Francisco y Madero Colonia Centro 23880; telephone 1-877-245-2860; www.osadadelasflores.com.

Where to eat

McLulu's, on Paseo Hidalgo and Calle Salvatierra, is wonderful for cheap eats. You have to try fish tacos in Baja, and this place's are simply delicious.

El Nido, 154 Calle Salvatierra, is well-known for its seafood and steaks grilled over mesquite wood.

Caf Ol, Avenida Madero No. 14, is good for breakfast and lunch, and locals claim it has the best mol sauce in town.

Vecchia Roma, on the roof of Posada De Las Flores, offers an elegant, rich and flavorful blend of Italian and Mexican food. Reservations required.
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bajajudy
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[*] posted on 2-11-2006 at 03:52 PM


One thing I agree with the writer on...........Victor Vargas is the best!
All the rest sounds like he bought the Fonatur story....sucker. Typos drove me crazy!




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[*] posted on 2-11-2006 at 05:14 PM


Does anyone realize how Loreto and Puerto Escondido was 'developed' with the French and others in the past? Surely Skeet and a few others must remember? History repeats itself...as it ALWAYS does...and we humans never learn. Funny stuff. What did they call those guys below the Mason-Dixon Line after the Civil War?



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[*] posted on 2-11-2006 at 05:57 PM


Ok Pomp
Them's fightin' words.
FORGET, HELL NO:fire:




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Phil S
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[*] posted on 2-11-2006 at 10:05 PM


Funny how different people who read the same articles perceive what they read. I read the article, and though he didn't spell Nopolo correctly (Nopol) it didn't bother me a bit that there were typo's. Guess because I'm retired, stuff like that doesn't bother me anymore.
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Cincodemayo
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[*] posted on 2-13-2006 at 11:52 AM


Phil...That's why they produce vallium for all the uptights. Any changes to Loreto Bay Inn yet?



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Get EVEN.
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[*] posted on 2-13-2006 at 12:55 PM


Cinco.
To answer your question to Phil, Yes , they put up their new sign:lol::lol:
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