David K
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EL CAMINO REAL in Baja (Part 9), Calamajue to Santa Maria
Baja Almanac page 18:
From the terrace where the short lived mission at Calamajue stood, this final section of the Jesuit trail crossed the broad arroyo and climbed the
steep north side, as does the auto road.
Crosby notes seeing signs of the trail just west of the road as they both head north to where passage over the ridge of SIERRA CALAMAJUE is possible.
Howard Gulick found the trail in 1952, also to the left (west) of the road and notes that the Camino Real passes the mouth of a canyon called El
Culebrado (a snake like winding canyon) before crossing the road at LAS ARRASTRAS and comes to a water hole called San Francisquito, 0.6 mi. past Las
Arrastras.
In 1769, Junipero Serra left Calamajue a little after noon and arrived at 'San Francisco' (San Francisquito) that day.
The name San Fancisquito had been applied to many sites in the region, including the larger part of what most call 'Gonzaga Bay': Ensenada de San
Francisquito. The Mexican topos and Baja Almanac switched the names of the two halves of 'Gonzaga Bay', however.
From the water hole (and later an abandoned mining camp) of San Francisquito, the old trail follows the arroyo of San Francisquito, but called ARROYO
LAS ARRASTRAS in the Almanac.
Crosby notes seeing excellent signs of the Jesuit road higher and on the west side of the arroyo from the auto road.
Both Gulick and Crosby say the Camino Real follows the arroyo to its junction with ARROYO SANTA MARIA, however recent muleback Camino Real traveler,
Baja Bucko, says the trail short cuts to the mouth of the Santa Maria canyon and passes the palm oasis of Las Palmitas at 29?40.35'/ 114?28.29? Some
excellent photos of this oasis are at http://www.timsbaja.com/jan03trip/jan03trip3.html
From Las Palmitas (also spelled: Las Palmytas or Las Palmas) the trail heads for the mouth of Santa Maria canyon...
Junipero Serra and likely the Jesuits before, went right up the canyon, called 'El Cajon' and climbed up the steep side to enter the valley containing
the mission. This trail is now called the 'Indian Trail' as the El Camino Real was moved out of the canyon after Serra's trip to Alta California. The
Indian trail is visible in this aerial photograph (bottom photo): http://davidksbaja.com/missionsm/page6.html
This 'El Cajon' canyon route was so dangerous that a new route was established which stayed out of the canyon, to the north. This was the route
traveled on mule by Crosby, Baja Bucko, and Don Jorge.
Photos of the Camino Real where it leaves Arroyo Santa Maria at 29?41.733'/ 114?28.175' and heads northwest are at: http://davidksbaja.com/1102/page6.html
In November, 2003, I traveled further up the Camino Real from the previous year but did not have enough daylight to reach the mission (allow 6 hours).
Photos and GPS at: http://davidksbaja.com/1103/page2.html
Soon after, in December, 2003, Don Jorge continued on to reach the mission and returned via the Indian Trail and canyon (Arroyo Santa Maria). Photos,
GPS, and topo map at http://southcoastfarms.com/gonzaga_to_mision_santa_maria.htm
To Be Continued...
[Edited on 2-3-2004 by David K]
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Juan
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David, Your series on the lost missions is very interesting to me. I hope to use your information, and the information I glean from others, in my
explorations next year. Thanks again, Juan
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David K
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Juan, feel free to ask here or email any questions on Baja's missions (lost or not). If I don't know, I have a ton of references. When I finish the El
Camino Real series, I will start with the mission articles... some that were posted on Amigos were saved by Baja Bernie... the ones that were lost
when Amigos went off the air, I will rewrite.
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academicanarchist
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Lost Missions
David. I think we need to discuss again on this forum the question of "lost" missions, that, as you know, I have good reason to believe never existed.
There is nothing wrong with exploring for lost missions for the fun of it, but important sites have also been dispoiled by treasure hunters looking
for the elusive and non-existent Jesuit treasure.
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Tucker
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In my opinion.....
whether legal or not, the publishing of GPS or other co-ordinates of these sites should be illegal. The argument that attracting people to these
sites helps preserve them is a pretty leaky bucket. Has anyone checked the legality of this with the Mexican Authorities, and has any of the
accumulated data been shared with Mexican government Archeaologists?
\"I think it would be a good idea.\"
-- Mahatma Gandhi, when asked what he thought of Western civilization
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academicanarchist
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Preserving Historic Sites
Tucker. I agree with you that unprotected sites should not be publicized by publishing GPS coordinates, although this is not illegal. My concern, and
David and I have discussed this many times, is that people will go off and damage historic sites such as mission sites, believing that there are lost
treasure of lost missions.
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David K
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If you read my Baja missions web site introduction, you will realize that it began as a home for the wonderful photos taken by Jack Swords, a retired
school teacher and part time resident of La Paz. Jack has official papers from INAH giving him permission to go through private property if needed and
to take photos and GPS.
None of the mission sites are secret, either. The lack of appreciation or apathy of the sites has led some to their destruction. Making the sites
known (and we aren't the only ones) can do no worse than doing nothing. I get plenty of emails and posts that people have taken a new interest in the
history of Baja because of our efforts.
The government of Mexico has begun to invest in the reconstruction of some sites. With increased awareness of historical sites, only more preservation
is possible.
Many sites were plowed over by farmers or road builders either out of ignorance or apathy. If all the people of Mexico realize that these ruins can be
a financial boom, perhaps they will join those trying to preserve the sites.
There is even more details and GPS of the sites in Ed Vernon's wonderful book: Las Misiones Antiguas.
As for the lost mission stuff... Yes, there probably are no 'lost missions', just lost or forgotten mission era ruins. The treasure hunting era ended
about 40 years ago, I think. Just finding an old site is treasure enough. The padres had no time for treasur hunting... they barely could feed
themselves.
THERE ARE NO GOLD TREASURES IN BAJA MISSIONS.
Baja Missions: http://davidksbaja.com/bajamissions
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Ski Baja
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Location: Rosarito Beach
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Publicity
You guys are pretty funny if you think that this publicity that you David are publishing, (GPS coordinates), and exact directions is helping to
preserve these sites when they are using 4WD and whatever it takes to get to them without having to get off their fat fannies.
Something tells me that preservation isn't first and foremost on your minds. Good thing you only know a few places in Baja Norte or I'd never
find any real Baja people.
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Ski Baja
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True feelings
This has nothing to do with the Hatfield /McCoy stuff that I see is still going on on this board. I do not believe in what you and Minnow are doing.
Take it outside and get it done with. Neanderthal works!
These are my real feelings when it comes to destroying Baja. Which is what's happening.
Let's see, I live in California and I have a new Hummer, hmm, Death Valley, naw, too many regulations, Anza Borrego, samesame, McKinney/Rubicon,
nah, too far and too cold. I know, let's check out David K's GPS points in "The Baja". I hear there's gold buried by the blah blah blah.
Cmon you guys, it's starting to look like you have some hidden interests here besides preserving Baja.
Why not GPS points in your own beloved country ? Where nobody cares.
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academicanarchist
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Things
Ski. Keep in mind that there have been numerous Baja travel guides that have identified the different mission sites. I am personally ambivalent about
what you talk about in your post, which is perhaps why I keep hammering away at the theme of lost missions and no mission treasure. I also agree with
your assessment about people going to tear up Baja, when it can be done here in the U.S.. West Texas has a lot of dry open spaces. I am particularly
concerned about the desecration of native burial sites, and on a number of occasions have suggested that perhaps the same should be done for
predominately white burial space.
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academicanarchist
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One Last Thought
Groups such as the California Landmarks Club initiated restoration projects at San Antonio mission in California and promoted preservation of the
mission sites, because people visited the mission sites. I agree with you that too many Norte Americanos go to Baja with a pee poor attitude, and
don't respect the fact that it is a different country. However, at the same time INAH has taken steps to protect the mission sites, and this probably
would not have happened without tourism. I only wish the Mexican government would do more to deal with the jerks who go to Baja, but then smiley in
the White House would throw a hissy fit.
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Stephanie Jackter
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Speaking of desecration...
It seems to be our favorite pastime in the United States. I studied anthropology in college and then came to the rude awakening that the only decent
paying job I could get if I pursued the field was as a "Cultural Resource Manager". Fancy words for someone who goes in and digs up a site real quick
for whatever information can be gathered on a shoe string before the bulldozers come in a wreck the whole thing to put up another set of those condos
J.R. talks about. I've been to a couple of these sites in Tucson, where Hohokam people, who we still know relatively little about, lived near the
banks of the now dry Santa Cruz and Rillito Rivers. Watching as the archeologists scurried around to measure the ball courts and dwellings and grave
sites that would never again be seen was enough to make my stomach churn. Development and desecration, no matter what kind of a spin they put on it,
go hand in hand. The same will happen in Baja. - Stephanie
When the goin' gets tough, the wierd turn pro
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academicanarchist
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Desecration
Steph. I agree with you 110%. Some 25 years ago developers building condos near the site of Santa Cruz mission in California uncovered the remains of
a previously unknown mission structure. Instead of waiting a few days, they took advantage of a long holiday weekend and bulldozed to bed rock. The
civic fathers, who were in the developer's pockets, did nothing.
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Ski Baja
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Location: Rosarito Beach
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desecration
Before I start getting called anti american again, the Mexican Tourists, which there are many of, are just as guilty of trashing these places as the
american and canadian ones are.
Which is why the people I know down there are now very strict when it comes to trash, graffiti, theft of artifacts, and just being idiots in
general.
I was actually trying to persuade them to make more mummies to put in some of the caves. So what if their last names happen to be Smith or Douglas
rather than an Indigenous name. They would still be mummies!
Possession of psycotropic substances and littering, punishable by death. Kinda has a ring to it.
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Jack Swords
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Mexican Antiquities
Gad, I hate to jump into this, trying to avoid the "Hatfield/McCoy" thing, but you all raise good points. Tucker, you deserve a response: In
traveling the back country in Baja for 20 years the loss of historical structures and artifacts was too apparent. I contacted INAH in Mexico City and
proposed locating sites exactly (GPS) and photographing them as they stood at a certain period of time. I was given written authorization under my
terms which was that the material was the exclusive property of Mexico and INAH. I was given permission to use the material gained as long as "credit
to INAH was given." I want/need nothing from this. I strongly feel that these are Mexican resources, to be preserved, exploited, or otherwise used
according to Mexican wishes. In just the last couple of years several mission structures have melted and washed away. I suspect that Marty might
have taken the front wall of Mission Santa Maria (in spite of trying to get INAH to stop the undercutting). The point? There is now some
photographic evidence of these sites that would not exist in a few years due to a variety of causes. A side benefit has been that INAH (particularly
N Baja) has protected adobe ruins with covers, cement slurry, and enhanced Mexican participation in research and saving material for future museums.
The increased awareness has caused this (and possibly some negative effects too). But, now INAH is looking at Baja historical sites as important
resources instead of just the Mayan and Aztec sites. As an aside, I know David K does NOT publicize GPS locations of sensitive locations. In
discussions with him he (and all of us) run into special places that are protected by isolation. These places have more time. Mission locations are
well known and need to be protected. Now, the mining towns, artifacts, and history are going the same way...my current hope is to get these down for
future historians. Regrettably, Baja is changing fast with development. Hopefully we can stay ahead of it. I hope this didn't offend anybody, this
topic, like many others, deserves much more discussion...preferably over a Pacifico.
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