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David K
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We Hiked a Mission Trail! (All 5 Parts)
Well folks, it was quite a weekend at Gonzaga Bay... (I have lots to share, but I am just too tired tonight)!
We left Gonzaga at 10:30 this (Sun.) morning, San Felipe at 1:30, Mexicali west border wait was 50 min., across at 5:30pm.
We met Corky and his grandson Jason.
We hiked up the El Camino Real towards Santa Maria.
We had wonderful weather this weekend (Sat & Sun), it was windy Thur. & Fri..
Thanksgiving dinner at Alfonsina's was great.
More to come...I have photos, too!
To Be Continued!!!
[Edited on 12-7-2003 by David K]
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Anonymous
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I always enjoy your reports of your trips. Looking forward to the latest report and photos of your trip. Thanks!...Mochilero
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Neal Johns
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!&%#@*
I'm at home in a knee brace! Marian caught me with one of my WiWs.  Glad I didn't
try to make it.
My motto:
Never let a Dragon pass by without pulling its tail!
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David K
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Part 2
Neal... no comment!
OK... Part 2, we get out of Dodge* by noon on Wednesday, and head south then east for Calexico (* actually, San Marcos where we had a school
appointment).
No problems crossing into Mexicali or the drive to San Felipe. We have dinner at Int'l. Rice and Beans. We were told Ricardo from their San Ignacio
Rice and Beans would be around later, as he had business in Mexicali.
The kids and I head south to Km. 32 for a night under the big trees at NUEVO MAZATLAN. Several other campers are there and filter in through the
night. I am happy to see the place is well kept, clean, and doing good business. I know the effort to make this place special was great, as I
witnessed the planting and growing of this 'forest' in the Baja desert, some 34 years ago.
The next morning (Thanksgiving), we are off quickly to get to Gonzaga Bay! The 'good' pavement ENDS at km. 32, but they have patched up the pot holes
for a few more miles. But soon, all hell breaks loose with the pot holes winning the battle, specially from Playa Cristina (near Arroyo Matomi) and
south to Puertecitos.
Puertecitos looked dead... didn't see anyone, the new and old Pemex are both closed, we had no reason to stop.
Reports that the next 50 miles to Gonzaga were just graded (before the Baja 1000 passed over it), are true. The race action did no harm to the road
and it was really a pleasnt drive compared to previous trips.
I must have been so relaxed by the 'smoother than usual' road, I nailed a sharp rock between El Huerfanito and 5 Islas and tore my back tire in half!
These tires that performed so well going to Mision Santa Maria, last April, were getting near minimal trad depth, in all fairness.
We arrive at Alfonsina's and see Brandi and Mike, who invite us to camp next to their place... Good to have Baja amigos!
The first order of business, after unloading the truck, and setting up camp is to go to Rancho Grande and get a tire, for a spare. Rancho Grande is
known as the Gonzaga Bay Costco!
To Be Continued...
[Edited on 12-7-2003 by David K]
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Bajaboy
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tires
Hey Dave-
Thanks as always for the report(s). I'm telling you, spend the extra money and purchase some BFG Mudders. I swear by them. Heck, read the side
walls, they're Baja proven."
Zac
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David K
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Yah, there's nothing like lots of rubber on your tires... mine were about as thick as those sandals they make in Mexico out of old tires.
The Tacoma is getting pretty small for Chris and Sarah to be in that back seat (actually, they are getting too big). Look to see me in a Tundra 4 door
before too long. Then the first set of replacement tires might be those mudders. Good to hear from you Zac!
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Don Jorge
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DK,
I looked for you Friday at Belugas and Alfosinas but no luck. Lots of planes and folks at Alfonsinas. Did you see that yellow fabric on steel
taildragger piloted by Hans on his way to South America? Hans esta loco!
After a great shrimp dinner at Alfosinas, shrimp boats are all over the area, I camped up the Arroyo Santa Maria.
Saturday at dawn began hiking up the arroyo and at about 5 miles ran into a series of class 5 rock problems and being solo I quit. I studied it and
have an idea what kind of protection gear to bring someday. I know the route is on the north rim but I wanted to see the arroyo first. I then
climbed out of the arroyo to the north east. I could not find the route hiking a few miles up and down and all around. I ended up due west of the
mission by about 4 miles but there was no way I was going to get there and back anytime soon, like in the next day or two. Maybe next time? Hiked 12
miles in all and was back at the truck by 3 o'clock. Drove home via the East Coast Expressway. The road between San Felipe and Gonzaga is great now
and as I had new BFG's no problem. In transit helped some kids with a shredded tire on their Jeep with no jack. Young, dumb and lucky. I was unable
to help the family in the mini van with a punched out oil pan. Crossed Mexicalli at 11 oclock.
A few questions. Do you know Juan Murano? He supposedly has trekked Gonzaga to Catavina. Many have come the other way but its much easier reading
the topo from topside looking down on the terrain.
Also, do you know what NADUM is used on Mexican topos. I could not find that info on the topo and it was bugging me a bit.
Glad to hear you had a good time and we are all safe and sound. Keep up the mission!
Jorge
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Jack Swords
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Datum
Jorge,
On the Mexican 1:50,000 Topos the Horizontal Datum is listed as "Norteamericano de 1927" which is NAD27 (Mexico).
Hey, let's set up a hike up to the mission at a later time, OK David?
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David K
Honored Nomad
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Jorge, sorry we missed you! I waited until 9:15 Friday then drove up to Alfonsina's (from Brandi's) to check on Corky (who was going up the canyon,
also). A throttle cable problem nixed his plans that day.
I went back to Brandi's and told them to keep an eye out for you and gave Brandi a map to show you where we would be. In all fairness, I know you
didn't know exactly where I was camping... However, if you drove to the end of the road at the mouth of Santa Maria canyon, my truck was there until
dark when Chris and I returned from the hike (Friday). I made arrows in the sand pointing the way to the Camino Real, where it leaves the arroyo,
north of the road end.
From the mouth of the canyon to the Indian Trail (the orig. ECR) up, is about 3 miles (past the big pools). If you miss that trail up the north side
of the canyon, you will come to a waterfall/dropoff from the mission valley. That would have stopped your westward progress, I believe. Graham
Mackintosh has walked from the mission to Gonzaga by both the canyon and El Camino Real routes. I have not been up the canyon beyond the first
palms/pools (about a mile in, from the end of the road).
Jack covered the datum thing... all my GPS waypoints are NAD27 Mexico, now. This to match with the Topos... My original GPS data was WGS84 (factory
setting), but Neal Johns convinced me to change.
Yes Jack, Chris and I want to go back. He was really bummed I ended the hike before we got to the mission... He was willing to sleep on the trail!
When I write the rest of the story, you will see where we got and why we turned back.
PS, Yes, we saw Hans landing there and lots of other planes, too. It is a pilot's paradise with so many airstrips.
[Edited on 12-2-2003 by David K]
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David K
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Don Jorge
Good morning Jorge, I read your u2u, but couldn't respond there as it said I reached my limit and deleting old u2u's didn't help.
Arroyo Santa Maria is about 5 miles south of Rancho Grande (big dip) and you can drive up to the canyon in it. However, the sand is deep and using the
road is better.
Go 7.4 miles south of Rancho Grande and turn west (right) on a single track road. In 3 miles, the road drops down into the Santa Maria arroyo basin
via a steep grade. At mile 3.2 this road turns south/left to enter a side canyon and goes 1.5 miles to Las Palmitas oasis. Continue west/straight at
mi. 3.2 on the faint track and go to mile 4.0. Here is a good parking spot next to a huge boulder. Tracks drop into the white sand arroyo, but rocks
and plants prevent cars from getting much further upstream. A hike of about a mile brings you to palms and pools of water as seen in my first trip web
page http://davidksbaja.com/missionsm and in Bajaur's web page of our May, '99 trip.
Head across the arroyo (from the parking spot) to the north side to find the El Camino Real where it climbs out of the arroyo.
That arroyo just north of Papa Fernandez' road has tracks that go several miles west and deserve some exploring.
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Bob H
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David, this is good stuff! I'm looking forward to your photos too.
Bob H 
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Don Jorge
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Thanks David! I can't wait to get outta here and back to there again. Your willingness to share information is to be applauded. Gracias!
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Anonymous
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Keep it coming David! "Keep hiking it and liking it!".........El Mochilero
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David K
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Part 3
OK Nomads, on with the story!
To give my kids something to do, I brought their 110cc dirt bike. Like my truck, it too got a flat. So, I reloaded the bike into the truck and off we
went to the Gonzaga Bay 'Costco' (Rancho Grande) which has a tire service in back.
A small puncture I fixed with a plug, I had asked to be replaced with a patch.
The tire that was ripped in half by the 'magic rock' near Huerfanito was removed from the rim and replaced with a simular size 16" tire from their
stock of used tires.
The motorcycle tire tube was patched.
All the above done quickly and the charge (including the replaced tire) was just $45! I gave the fellow a fifty and many thanks for his helping us
salvage a weekend of exploring fun.
At 6 o'clock that evening, we headed up to Alfonsina's for the traditional Turkey dinner. Doug Bowles ('Dooooglas') had invited us, as he did last
year. As it was last year, dinner was fantastic, with all the trimmings. Sarah wasn't feeling well, so we left before dessert... But we heard from
others, it was grand as well.
Friday morning we hoped to hook up with Don Jorge and Corky for the El Camino Real hike. Corky and his grandson were staying in one of the original
rooms behind Alfonsina's and next to Doug's driveway. We got there and found Corky and Jason working on a throttle cable which dashed their
exploration hopes.
Back at Brandi's at 9:15, I make a map for her or Sarah to give to Don Jorge if he shows (I realized he didn't know where we were camping, but just in
case).
Chris (almost 15) and I go to the parking spot near the mouth of the canyon (see directions, above post). We take turns wearing the back pack which
has 6 pints of water and two medium bottles of Gatoraide, plus first aid, matches, energy bars, snacks, our sweaters, aerial photos from my 1999 fly
over with Doooglas and BajaMur, and two GPS receivers (one I wear)
10 am and we are a foot in Baja!
Waypoint 1: north edge of Arroyo Santa Maria where the El Camino Real heads up, to the northwest N29?41.733'/ W114?28.175' (NAD27 Mexico) elev. 609'.
The trail goes northwest and over to the left to climb up from the river valley, note ocotillos.
At the top, you will continue northwest in a small side valley, along the valley's left side. The trail is a cattle path, here.
Soon, you will find the wooden sign with 'Mission Santa Maria' painted on it, laying on the ground. We prop it up, against a bush for photos... like I
did last year http://davidksbaja.com/1102/page6.html
Waypoint 2: 29?42.374'/ 114?28.566' elev. 741'. This is where I turned back last year. The trail is still a narrow path but that fades away. The
valley's left side curves to form a 'V' to the south. I follow the curve, but later discover the trail is straight ahead, so short cut across the wide
side of the 'V'. If you are using a GPS (highly recommended), you will avoid the excess walking I did to follow the side of the valley.
A SIGN!!!! The Camino Real climbs out of the little valley to the left. Somebody used silver paint and painted a 'mission' (house with cross on it)
and an arrow. Here is the start of a switchback up. Big rocks were moved to each side, and 230 years of erosion has washed the soil deeply away
exposing lighter colored rock below. This is excellent! About halfway up, I make another waypoint:
Waypoint 3: 29?42.669'/ 114?28.937', elev. 906'. The trail continues to the top of a ridge where it briefly disappears. We scout around and just walk
in the logical direction (west northwest) and find it, again.
Waypoint 4: 29?42.671'/ 114?29.425', elev. 1,308'.
At this point I realize we are staying close to the north rim of Santa Maria canyon and not heading around the mountain that is north of the mission,
as I had thought.
Waypoint 5: 29?42.748'/ 114?29.482', elev. 1,391'
The Camino Real goes from ridge to ridge and the huge Santa Maria canyon is visible to the south (left). At one point we can see to the the bottom and
the beautiful palms that fill the canyon.
Waypoint 6: 29?43.008'/ 114?29.967', elev. 1,477'. Rock cairns (marking piles) or silver painted marks help spot the Camino where the Franciscan and
Dominican padres work is not obvious.
The Jesuits who founded Mision Santa Maria used the canyon and the 'Indian Trail' that climbs out of the canyon. Franciscan Junipero Serra ordered
better roads, including a cargo trail to Gonzaga Bay that is more direct than either of the El Camino Real routes.
This Camino Real route that Chris and I are hiking on was used by Harry Crosby. Crosby believed Serra had it constructed as the canyon route was too
dangerous.
To Be Continued...
[Edited on 12-3-2003 by David K]
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Debra
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Thanks for sharing David
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Mike Humfreville
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Good stuff David. Keep it commin.'
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David K
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Part 4
The next waypoint on the Camino Real is 29?43.074'/ 114?30.128', elev. 1,610' That's over 1,000 feet higher than where we started in Arroyo Santa
Maria.
The day is beautiful, the air is cool and breezy. It was a perfect day for this hike. However, I am concerned we didn't get an early start and the sun
is dropping fast.
The old trail goes across a steep slope of a tributary canyon and I understand some of what Baja Bucko reported when she rode a mule here a few years
ago. I cannot imagine riding a motorcyle on this even though it has been done.
Final waypoint on the Camino Real today is 29?43.141'/ 114?30.189', elev. 1,702'. Soon signs of the trail disappear (again) and Chris and I walk up
and down the steep slope for a sign (muestra) of the mission road. Chris even climbs to the top of a peak to try and find it... nada.
It is 2 pm, we have been hiking four hours and it gets dark in less than three. I tell Chriss we need to head back. He is disappointed as he really
wanted to see the Santa Maria mission. His sister got to see it (last April) http://davidksbaja.com/403
I am thrilled when Chris tells me he would be willing to sleep out to continue the next day (we had matches but no sleeping bags). Could it be that my
son has 'Baja Fever'???!!!
The GPS is a great help in getting back to my truck. We can follow the track back on the GPS screen where the El Camino Real disappears so less time
searching for it was needed.
We get back to the truck as it is getting really dark.
The hike was great because my son and I did it together and he had just as much enthusiasm as I. We saw mission era road construction from 230 years
ago. The weather was perfect and the amount of water we carried was just right.
I had believed this trail went north of the mountain north of the mission. I was surprised that it stayed just above the north rim of the canyon. The
mystery now is WHERE does this trail end up in the mission valley? The far east end of the valley is where the Gonzaga road building attempt by Rancho
Santa Ynez ended and where the 'Indian Trail' continues east, dropping down to the canyon bottom. That waypoint (end of bulldozed road) is 29?43.033'/
114?31.556', elev. 1,615'. I walked a thousand feet down the Indian Trail and all the way back to the mission last April. I saw no other trail...
Where Chris and I made the last waypoint, the distance to the bulldozed road is just 1.4 miles. I just don't know where the Camino Real connects with
the mission valley!
I guess we just have to go back and hike it all the way through!!! Right gang? Who's going to join us???
Final Chapter Next...
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Anonymous
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Ahhh, the race is on! Last man to find the trail is a rotten egg! Thanks David! Waiting for your next post....El Mochilero
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David K
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Part 5 (Fin) PHOTO LINK added 12-15
The mystery is mostly solved as to where the Camino Real enters the Santa Maria mission valley. Last night (Friday, 12-5) was the Discover Baja
Christmas Party. Graham Mackintosh and Harry Crosby were both there, both experts on the Camino Real...
It seems the Camino Real goes up the mountain from the bulldozed road, about 200 yards before the end of the road (east of the mission). Graham tells
me you can see the Camino Real after hiking up a ways, as the part where it is near the bulldozed road is nearly invisible. I guess that is why I
didn't see it, last April. The bottom aerial photo at http://vivabaja.com/missionsm/page6.html shows this location.
The end of my story: Tired from seven hours hiking and climbing over a thousand feet we drive back to Brandi's place and no one is there, so we head
for Alfonsina's and pass them. They just finished dinner, so Chris and I went to have ours. I got to tell you, Irma made the greatest garlic butter
fish dinner I ever had! When I asked her what kind of fish, she whispered the name in my ear. I was really thrilled to be so lucky to have such a fish
served. Let's just say this excellent eating fish is similar to white sea bass and croaker, in flavor. I shared some with Chris, who ordered burritos
and quesadillas. I told him how popular this fish once was at a local San Diego saefood restaurant chain. But overfishing and loss of its breeding
habitat has nearly wiped out the species.
The next night we both wanted some more of that fish, but it was all gone... bummer.
Saturday, we just were lazy and the weather was perfect, too. Sunny and warm.. no white caps or wind.
Sunday, we had another beautiful day, but had to head home. We got on the road about 10:30 am. No flat tires, best condition I have seen for the road.
Made Puertecitios in 90 minutes and another hour and a half to San Felipe. The worse part of the drive is the pot hole pavement for the 25 miles from
Puertecitos north.
San Felipe was all detoured up fpr some bike race so we went to Pete's Camp for some food then home.
Hope you enjoyed the details of our Thanksgiving. I will eventually get around to developing our photos. I hope I got some good ones of the El Camino
Real. Naturally, I will make a web page so you all can see them!
Hasta La Vista Baja Amigos and Nomads!
WEB PAGE with PHOTOS of the trip: http://VivaBaja.com/1103
[Edited on 10-22-2004 by David K]
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Anonymous
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Many thanks, David! I gotta do that hke someday. Looking forward to the pictures, too. Oh, and thanks for the waypoints. "El Mochilero"
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