Mike Humfreville
Super Nomad
Posts: 1148
Registered: 8-26-2003
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Punta Eugenia, Conclusion ? Return to Bahia de Los Angeles
Punta Eugenia, Conclusion ? Return to Bahia de Los Angeles
It was sad leaving Punta Eugenia so far out on the Malarrimo peninsula. The old man had warmed me with a feeling of continuity at a time when the
States seemed to be either at war or irritating the rest of the world. Here, a tiny hamlet at the end of all roads offered a stability to the few
that lived here and warmth to those few visitors who cared to travel that far. My new friend had lived and loved here most of his life and I
respected him.
We returned to Bahia Tortugas. I bought gas from the Pemex and we were off heading east over the roads we had traveled two days before. I would have
liked to explore all the side roads we encountered but, alas, schedules put the skids on that. Maybe next time. Knowing what to expect this leg of
the trip I had only to reflect on so many years ago and the ?roads? that more or less converged at San Jose de Castro. For the moment I could only
add that ranch as one of my destinations for the next trip. Three days was not enough. And I?d like to take the road south to Bahia Asuncion and
points south. On my 1969 trip, I had come north from that direction. As I remember there are some wonderful hills not far inland and I wanted to
revisit them too. There are so many natural and sociological interests in Baja. Most of us from the States are going so fast on a one- or two-week
vacation that we don?t have time to stop and listen to the bees and smell the wildflowers of spring, to look for interesting trails, to follow endless
roads that led nowhere. I asked myself why someone would go to the trouble to start a road that led nowhere. But I knew plans could change.
We encountered the pavement of Highway 1 well before dusk and continued on into Guerrero Negro. With four dogs we had a little trouble finding a
hotel that would accept them but eventually prevailed. We unpacked the needs of a single night and carried them to our rooms. Brisa had been
bouncing in the backseat of our friend?s truck and was ready to romp. She had made many new friends at Punta Eugenia; I wondered if she was too young
to even think about them now, let alone remember her warming experiences for life, something to carry her through the rough spots she would later
encounter along her way.
We ate dinner at the Malarrimo hotel and restaurant. The food was, as I have always found it, excellent and the service is even better if that?s
possible. We slept early that night after all the dirt driving.
Guerrero Negro is the primary ?supply? town in the central peninsula. The morning found us seeking out a small CD player and a number of music CD?s.
A group our friends had introduced us to at their house in Bahia de Los Angeles, just down the sand from our place, was the Elefantes, very mellow
stuff. Then we stopped at a hardware store which had everything we needed for home improvements on a small scale. Then we shopped at Tanguis market
and found a great supply of foods. While Bahia de Los Angeles carries a lot more than a few years ago, it is so small there isn?t need for much. At
Tanguis we stocked up in bulk before we headed north
The pavement between Guerrero Negro and the turn off is well paved and the countryside not spectacular. It allowed my mind to wander. We?d seen most
of the points of interest near the bay. We had many times made the La Paz ? Cabo ? loop. It?s just too developed for my tastes these days; maybe
when I was younger?
Once we hit the turn off the desert is filled with a rich assortment of Cordon, Cirio and many, so many Elephant Trees all catching the water vapors
climbing up from the bay nightly.
So now, I?m thinking, maybe more trips into the central desert outback. There are so many places I haven?t seen, ever or recently. There is so much
warmth to appreciate, most notably the local folks. On this trip I had seen that the smaller more remote villages are touched by the ?civilization?
that?s closing in. I know what interests me but the peninsula is bound to change. I think about what many of us call poverty. These locals are not
poor. Not having an abundance of money doesn?t make poverty. Depravity will certainly add to it, but everywhere we visited in our too-short trip we
encountered acceptance, smiles and greetings, and helpful support of those who knew better than we did. I hope the changes hanging on the horizon
like water-laden cumulous clouds will benefit those families that settle here and there in the outback. While progress is necessary and inevitable, I
wish they could avoid the extremes regardless of from where they emanate. But in my heart I know they will; they?ll carry their values of honor,
family, helpfulness forward to whatever generation is waiting patiently.
When they win, I will too.
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Mexitron
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3397
Registered: 9-21-2003
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
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Mood: Happy!
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Thanks for the reminder of the beauty of the mid-peninsula Mike...been a while since I've been there. Next trip over there you might try coming in
through the El Arco road and explore the old mining settlementsin the mountains...still a couple of 1920s chevy frames rusting away in the town that
once was Calmalii.
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Mike Humfreville
Super Nomad
Posts: 1148
Registered: 8-26-2003
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Thanks Mexitron,
We've passed through El Arco on many occasions, mostly years back but never stayed there as a destination. The old market/store that was there in the
'70's was where we went to find canned goods for dinner. My buddy bought a can of Machaca, opened it and ate it directly.
"What's it taste like?" the rest of us asked him.
"Macaca." he answered.
I believe El Arco is where Antero (Papa) Diaz first set up his camp when he came across from the mainland. I know there are many mines in the area
and that could be a good jumping off point.
Thanks for reading and commenting.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64858
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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The old gold mine ghost town of Calmalli and Pozo Aleman are 'suburbs' of El Arco with relics still laying around... Jack Swords has many nice
historic photos, including that area in http://vivabaja.com/swords
[Edited on 8-2-2006 by David K]
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