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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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San Diego - Mulege Trip report Part 2
Now you arrive at the main Highway #1 just south of Ensenada...and back into the chaos. Grin and bear it.
As we drive through the outskirts, I recognize a lstore where we used to buy lots of rum ...Ron Palmas rot-your-mind rum. We shopped there for..oh,
I dunno....maybe 15 years?...20?..probably more.
(A certain Nomad compadre of mine in Seattle will recognize this photo...although this store has changed it’s name a few times since the early 70's.
Hey..Are you reading this, aquaholic?)
At this point, we ‘elected’ a designated driver. Hilary you say? Well..okay, but not all of us are agreed.
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I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
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Posts: 8194
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Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Ensenada scene
We cannot find the ‘shortcut’ route from Ensenada to San Quintin for at least the 8th year in a row and so follow our past trail along the malecon,
turning left at the Pemex/car wash, and then right at the old Gigante plaza...now Soriana’s.
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
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Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Which way?
We were looking for more exact directions to Sharkey's. This sign does not help us...so we continue on our same path.
[Edited on 5-19-2008 by Pompano]
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Mood: Optimistic
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We came upon this confused situation....it was a real circus of events....and the efforts of the military to clear up the mess. Pretty dangerous..and
I was wishing at this point that I was still driving
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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what the ...?
About 35 turns and 2 hours later we come in sight of .....
Ah, jeez....with Hilary at the wheel, we are right back where we were.
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Mood: Optimistic
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..that sucking sound...
One cannot help but notice a lot of assembly plants in these northern Mexican towns. Reminded my passengers about a fellow a few years ago who ran
for US president. A ‘kook’ by the name of Ross P-something or other. He was always talking about loss of jobs and some sucking sounds coming from
the border....
...and then we came across this sight..
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Mood: Optimistic
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coco-stop
We escape that laboring whirlpool and spot what turns out to be a coconut stand. A nice break for some fresh fruit. Nothing quite like a
fresh-husked coconut, right? Lop the top off, stick a straw in, and suck. Life is good.
The whole family turns out to pitch in...even the little tykes. John M. Remarks this is labor intensive and smacks of socialistic behavior...sigh.
I love fresh coconut...
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Mood: Optimistic
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Pacific coast campsite detour
We made a little detour of a few miles over to the Pacific coast to visit an old favorite campsite. It's a good break from the Baja Road..and we
always find it uncrowded. Here is our group on a camping trip a few years ago.
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Some fellow fishermen are broke down on this narrow stretch. They had flaggers out front and rear, thank God, and we were in no danger from
traffic...so we briefly stopped to see if we could help. They said no thanks, they were okay... just needed to see the welder ..a soldador..in a
nearby town . The ball hitch sleeve was the problem. I had an extra receiver only ..so we said buena suerte and drove on.
[Edited on 5-25-2008 by Pompano]
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Mood: Optimistic
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Health care ....
We hustled now to make up some lost time and the kilometers went by quickly all the way thru Camalu and the many ejidos north of San Quintin. We all
donated quite a bit to the Red Cross people in Camalu. Hilary and Barack-O each gave a couple pesos and then a long speech, John M. offered to give
blood if they needed it. I made change and came out pretty good.
A doctor makes a car-visit and offers some advice for campaign fatigue.....
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Mood: Optimistic
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El Rosario
Went through the Army checkpoint at the top of the grade and put the pedal to the metal.
Now we come to El Rosario...and Nomad Baja Cactus Pemex and motel. We have stayed there many times in the past and always topped off the tanks.
Antonio’s hospitality is known by all Nomads and more. This time, unfortunately, was not the time to stay overnight, as we were on a mission to reach
points further south before nightfall. Banditos, vampiros, chupacapras, you know..the usual Baja Road hazards.
We pull in to say hola and snap some photos.
The friendly office staff at Baja Cactus.
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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The rooms and parking are okay..except if I have my boat trailer along. The rates are still the same, and I was told I could get online either in the
lobby...or in a room with a cable hookup to my laptop.
But we must press on....miles to go before we sleep.
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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We roared off onto the Baja Road again.
A short time later we came upon another well-known stop on the trail.
Mama Espinoza’s.
p.s. edit: I thought I would make this photo black and white to give Mama's an old-time look.
[Edited on 5-19-2008 by Pompano]
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Mood: Optimistic
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ANIMAL RESCUE AT EL ROSARIO
Then we pulled into a most interesting place in El Rosario...one that I shall visit more often, now that I know more about it. It’s a business
alongside the highway about 1 block south of km marker #60 in El Rosario. Make the left turn at the corner past Mama’s and head south..you will see
the sign..FOSSILS. I think everyone would enjoy stopping here. Full of great Baja things..fossils, maps, curios, collectibles, etc. A must see.
But the best thing is, the owner also operates a DOG/CAT RESCUE service there in El Rosario. The owner, Kim, is devoting a huge amount of time and
effort into helping the unwanted animals of this area..and can use whatever support you can give. I know that her service to the neglected dogs and
cats requires a lot of dedicated effort and she needs some business to support her animal mission...Nomads to the rescue!
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Mood: Optimistic
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Good heart
Sleeping Beauty.
I came upon this figure snoring away while standing perfectly upright in her backyard/kennel area
Poor girl must be so pooped from taking care of her dog and cat charges, that she probably just dozes off at any given chance...catching 40 winks ...
and getting back to work.
I’M JUST KIDDING, KIM!!
This was a poor photo op by yours truly...got her with her eyes closed. Sorry, Kim. As we get to know each other, you will understand.....trust me.
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Mood: Optimistic
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Desert(fire)Storm
On the road again, we have left El Rosario behind us and have driven many miles south when we come upon this wildfire way out in the desert. It looks
like it could have started from the roadside..a ‘probable cause’ might be a carelessly tossed cigarette, but like political points of view, one never
knows. This creates a heated discussion about health care costs,. smoking bans, etc. I hope nobody spots my old Zig Zags and that tin of Copenhagen
in the glove box. Ah...leftovers from my urban-cowboying days.
“ Hotter’n a snake’s azz in a wagon rut.”.. who?..quiz quote.
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
Member Is Offline
Mood: Optimistic
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Exploding Quail and Virgin
We hammer down again on the Baja Trail. Past the familiar old Hermanos ranch and cantina still standing after all these years. Each time as I pass
by this old landmark, I recall with fond memory myt first serving of machaca.. ‘back in 71'.. like oldtimers say... when the road was more of a
‘trail.’.. That machaca was made from venado..deer/venison...simple and delicious.
Now comes the little dry stream bed just before Catavina...sometimes not so dry.
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Now we are winding our way through boulders, barrel cactus, and boonjums..which are actually rare upside-down carrots..only growing in that special
place. We take lots of time to look at the old Virgin of the Rocks shrine which was painted by a Tijuana artist a year after our first pavement
trip..
Here's a photo from 1974 of the Virgin of the Rocks. Today it is cemented within an enclosure. Not nearly the same, but perhaps necessary with all
the graffiti in the area.
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then follow a couple of trails to old campsites we have used for so many years. Confirm my last chalk rock-painting has washed away and suddenly
explode a covey of desert quail, remembering how good they taste over a campfire. We’ve had some great comradery with other Baja travelers who
camped with us in those boulder fields. So many good memories..and promises of more to come.
Like you, to me this is still a land of enchantment.
One of our camps in this area from 1994.
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On a separate trip we hauled our 28' cargo trailer and camped in the boulder field.
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[Edited on 5-26-2008 by Pompano]
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
Member Is Offline
Mood: Optimistic
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3 for the Road!
The Baja Road calls us south past old familiar places like Top of the World & Methusalah, Lake Chapala, Punta Prieta, turn-off to Bahia de Los
Angeles, Laguna Manuela, and Jesus Marie to name but a few.
Always a must, we drop anchor at Carmelita’s tacos, burritos, and gutbomb shack next to the gas station in Jesus Marie.
“Tres burritos!”
.. is my only order there ever since she started out in her van under the trees nearer the station. My God, how can those burritos taste so good? I
could eat a couple right now. Muy sabrosa, amiga!
Here’s Carmelita in her old location a few years back...
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Mood: Optimistic
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and here is Carmelita’s today...
..no wind..comfy seating.
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
Member Is Offline
Mood: Optimistic
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LAGUNA MANUELA
We take the sideroad to Laguna Manuela to revisit another great campsite. This is a great area for beachcombers, as the ocean currents continuously
deposit great finds...treasures!...on the beaches here. Long Beach ..Playa Largo..is renowned for white sea bass..surf fishing is the order of the
day.
There is also a fishing co-op with many pangas in the bay and nearby seas. Lots of shark, rays, and fish are brought in daily. We also bought some
nice lobster from these pangueros.
In this photo they are cleaning shark.
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SPEED KILLS! Does anyone remember those huge billboards with the rabbit on a stretcher? With the tortoise carrying him?
After a light lunch of burritos and a cold one, we get back on the highway and immediately hit that damn huge speed-bump (tope) AGAIN....grrr.....
This makes the umpteenth time now when going through Jesus Marie. I swear I will carry a pickaxe with me on future trips! By Pegasus, if man was not
meant to speed, we wouldn’t have speedometers that go to 220kph!
The road is laser-straight here for many miles and you can really open up....unless you pay attention to the ridiculous posted speed limit of
80kph...50mph. Sheesh...like, Sure.. we are all going to inch along on these wide-open straightaways. You bet. Hmm....was that a radar cop we almost
hit?
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Now John M. comments that I am ‘going too fast to see the dangers ahead’, which is immediately copy-catted by the backseat drivers, Billary and
Barack-O.
Turns out they are right.
FOG AHEAD.
We have all, as a little nation of Baja-travelers, now entered... ‘a zone of unclear destination and intent in a foreign land’...a real
vision-impairing place that fogs our progress and creates a lack of resolve.
John M. laments that we...’might be here for a hundred, maybe a thousand ..years.’
Hilary says, Heck, No, John...I will have the last of us out of here by 2010 latest, gauranteed.
Barack-O states that, ‘ I never voted to come this route.’...and... ‘please do not talk about my wife’...whatever that meant? I suspect he may have
squirreled away some of that ‘stuff’ he tried when a young man.
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[Edited on 5-25-2008 by Pompano]
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
Member Is Offline
Mood: Optimistic
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Our foriegn involvement worsens....
As the discussion continues from back seat to front...it heats up and soon the three are loudly interrupting each other. I tried to make the comment
that there is no such thing as conversation anymore, just intersecting monologues...but was drowned out by the filabustering..sigh..
And so....with all three yahoos trying to command the dialogue, it just gets foggier and foggier and foggier out there.
[Edited on 5-19-2008 by Pompano]
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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