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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64488
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Bob H
| Quote: | Originally posted by David K
| Quote: | Originally posted by Bob H
David, the drip system you did in my front yard is still going strong. All of my plants are growing and blooming! You need to stop by to see how it
looks.
It might be time for me to clean out the filter but I don't remember how you told me to do that.
Bob H |
Good to hear Bob... You have a Netafim Techline CV system with filtered inlet, self cleaning, pressure compensating, check valve emitters every 12
inches that each flow 0.63 GPH at 5-50 PSI or about 1 gallon per minute per 100 feet.
100 feet of drip emitterline uses about the same flow per minute as just one 10' spray head... and all of the water goes into the soil where the
plants roots are. A spray head put all the water into the air first, as a mist... where a third or more is lost to wind or run off as most soil cannot
absorb water at such a fast rate.
The filter comes apart by unscrewing the body, like opening a jar... Inside is a tube shaped filter screen... remove it and take it to your garden
hose to spray of any debris it has collected. Once a year inspection on city water should be enough... unless you are aware of any water main breaks
that will contaminate the water. |
Thanks David, seems simple enough. Do I have to shut the water off to the house before uscrewing the filter body?
Bob H |
Hi Bob,
After I read this again, I remembered you actually have a poly hose with emitters system that waters only at places you chose by the adding of
emitters to the poly hose. Most of my drip installations are with the emitterline in planter beds. Because you have widely spaced plants we didn't use
the emitterline with emitters every foot.
David
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64488
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Well... it has been over a year since this thread was active... With so many new Nomads joined since then, others may find the data helpful.
Also, just fyi... if you are in San Diego County and need irrigation assistance, intallation or repairs before the wet season ends... please contact
me via u2u.
Any new questions, please ask away!
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monoloco
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6667
Registered: 7-13-2009
Location: Pescadero BCS
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DK, Do you have any suggestions for distributing gray water?
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64488
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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| Quote: | Originally posted by monoloco
DK, Do you have any suggestions for distributing gray water? |
Not recommended, but if you must, probably use flood bubblers... You will need some pressure to push water through pipes. Pressure is created by
gravity (elevation) or a pump. Any drip or low flow products need filtered water, so they are out of the question for gray water usually.
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mulegemichael
Super Nomad
Posts: 2310
Registered: 12-24-2007
Location: sequim,wa. and mulege
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Mood: up on step
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hey, since this post has been resurrected, has anyone had any experience with expanding drip tape in conjunction with a pressure reduction valve and a
sand filter???.....that's how we irrigate all of our gardens and 50,000 lavender plants; cheap, simple,super easy to use and available...the product
we use is called T-tape and we buy it through Modern Agri Systems in Washington State....wonderful stuff!
dyslexia is never having to say you\'re yrros.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64488
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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| Quote: | Originally posted by mulegemichael
hey, since this post has been resurrected, has anyone had any experience with expanding drip tape in conjunction with a pressure reduction valve and a
sand filter???.....that's how we irrigate all of our gardens and 50,000 lavender plants; cheap, simple,super easy to use and available...the product
we use is called T-tape and we buy it through Modern Agri Systems in Washington State....wonderful stuff! |
More info... please...
Expanding?
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
For those who don't know:
Drip tape is an inexpensive row watering system, and is often used for just one crop (thin plastic)... heavier walled tape was made... I used it often
until emitterline (dripperline) became more common. Dripperline is basically a multi-year line (like poly tube) and can be pressure compensating for
longer runs or changing line elevation.
[Edited on 6-16-2012 by David K]
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mulegemichael
Super Nomad
Posts: 2310
Registered: 12-24-2007
Location: sequim,wa. and mulege
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Mood: up on step
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what i mean by "expanding" dk, is that it lies flat when the line isn't charged with water....when the water is on, the tape fills up and becomes
round...the emitter holes can be anywhere from 6" apart to 24" apart, depending on where you want them...it is so simple to use....a 5000' roll of
tape is around $280...that's almost a mile of the stuff for under $300 so you can see how affordable it is...there are several grades of tape also;
some that is good for one season, others that are good for several seasons..try it, you'll like it.
dyslexia is never having to say you\'re yrros.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64488
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Ok Michael, now I understand what you are asking!
I wasn't sure if you were asking how to 'expand' it, as in add to it to make the runs longer... or something else.
Besides being thinner plastic than emitterline, the other issue is drip tape is designed for straight runs, as in row watering of vegetables and
berries. Emiterline can be curved, looped, etc. Drip tape has its uses as an inexpensive product for agriculture, however.
The drip tape we used to use back in the 1980's was Bi-Wall from Reed, then Hardie Irrigation (now part of Toro Ag).
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mulegemichael
Super Nomad
Posts: 2310
Registered: 12-24-2007
Location: sequim,wa. and mulege
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Mood: up on step
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yeah, dk....we buy the highest grade of tape and replace it every two/three years...all depends how many mice munch on it...sure is simple tho for our
lavender fields.
dyslexia is never having to say you\'re yrros.
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rob
Senior Nomad
Posts: 509
Registered: 10-19-2004
Location: Pacific Coast, BCS
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Hi Michael - we use T-Tape for our vegetable garden(s) here at the ranch, works great but vulnerable to birds, especially in the spring when they are
thirsty and busy with nesting. Every morning we wake to see 5-10 miniature fountains spraying from holes in the T-Tape!
I must take another look at DKs emitterline/dripperline, but it looks like its for longer term use than a 4-5 month garden (which is used then
abandoned until we rotate around to it again - about 4 years).
One thing we CAN'T do is grow lavender! Tried 4-5 times (from seed), and it just doesn't come up. Always thought lavender was very hardy - guess its
fussy too!
Best for 2011.
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larryC
Super Nomad
Posts: 1482
Registered: 8-11-2008
Location: BoLA
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DavidK
I could use some advice on setting up a simple drip system to water 2 Bouganvillas my wife planted recently. the water comes from a pila, so it would
be gravity fed, and the water will only be a max of 6' above the outlets. I will have power available full time. The plants are only a few feet from
the pila. Most of our plants are cactus down there but these 2 Bouganvillas seem to require a little more attention. I guess what I am looking for is
a shopping list so I can pick the stuff up here in San Diego and install it in BoLA.
TIA
Larry
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64488
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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For a fair price, I will install it for you! 
Okay, seriously... You need to find a battery operated timer/ valve combo that works at zero water pressure (very rare, but some of them do use an
electric motor instead of water pressure to operate the valve). Home Depot changes brands they sell all the time, so see what they have, get a phone
number or web site off the box (if the instructions don't say) and contact the company and ask their tech guy.
A drip system wye filter will screen out any stuff in the pila that could clog the valve or drip emitters... so put it after a ball valve and before
the electric control valve.
From the control valve convert the pipe thread (or hose thread) outlet to 1/2" poly tube... run the tube to your plants... and place at least 2
emitters per plant, one on each side of the trunk... but not next to it. About half the distance from the trunk to the edge of the leaves, above.
Use 2 gph or bigger emitters (less likely to clog), but they cannot be pressure compenstaing (because you have no pressure) emitters that require some
pressure to work. You want laminar or turbulant flow only emitters... some have a flag top to take apart for cleaning. If you can't find any, then use
the dial a flow/ shrubbler adjustable emitters (0-10 gph).
Run a few feet of poly hose past the last plant (a place for dirt to accumulate between flush cleanings) to a capped or figure 8 end plug.
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maspacifico
Nomad
Posts: 317
Registered: 4-22-2008
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The Orbit timers, four zone things, worked great on gravity.....for about 6 months. Then they wouldn't shut off all the way. Orbit has sent me free
replacements but gravity just lets the mineral water we've got collect into nasty stuff and clog up anything that moves. Other kinds of battery
operated timers either didn't open or didn't close, from the very start. I've got them going off a rv pump using a spare panel and two pretty dead
batteries. Runs the half hour I need it.
I was wondering if the regular sprinkler valves would open and close more forcibly? I have more power than I need but hate to come home to a valve
that didn't close and wasted water.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64488
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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| Quote: | Originally posted by maspacifico
The Orbit timers, four zone things, worked great on gravity.....for about 6 months. Then they wouldn't shut off all the way. Orbit has sent me free
replacements but gravity just lets the mineral water we've got collect into nasty stuff and clog up anything that moves. Other kinds of battery
operated timers either didn't open or didn't close, from the very start. I've got them going off a rv pump using a spare panel and two pretty dead
batteries. Runs the half hour I need it.
I was wondering if the regular sprinkler valves would open and close more forcibly? I have more power than I need but hate to come home to a valve
that didn't close and wasted water. |
Regular sprinkler valves require pressure to work at least 10-20 psi, and water flow of at least a couple gallons per minute... There are valves that
will work at very low flows, but they need some pressure.
With a pila at 15 feet high, you get only 6.5 psi. With a drip system, specially for only a couple of plants you won't have any flow to speak of... 2
gallons per minute is 120 gallons per hour (or 60 2 gph emitters).
I think the battery timer valves are the only choice for an automatic system... just have replacements or soak the thing in vinegar to remove the
mineral buildup.
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larryC
Super Nomad
Posts: 1482
Registered: 8-11-2008
Location: BoLA
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David
Thanks for the info, I'll see what I can find.
Larry
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64488
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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You're welcome!
Anybody that needs irrigation help or other property improvements can take advantage of these slow months and get them done before the dry months
begin. Please send me a u2u or email me using the subject 'Irrigation' at info*at*vivabaja.com.
For Nomads (or lurkers) who are in San Diego County and would like a consultation at your home... and we can talk about Baja, too... let me know! I
need work, or no more Baja trips, no more anything!!! Thank you!
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larryC
Super Nomad
Posts: 1482
Registered: 8-11-2008
Location: BoLA
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David
I found a Melnor 3100 http://www.melnor.com/products-aquatimers.php here at my place in Bahia, it works, atleast when I put batteries in it the valves open and close.
Will it work for what I am trying to do? Doesn't seem ro need any pressure.
Larry
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Hook
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9006
Registered: 3-13-2004
Location: Sonora
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Mood: Inquisitive
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| Quote: | Originally posted by maspacifico
The Orbit timers, four zone things, worked great on gravity.....for about 6 months. Then they wouldn't shut off all the way. Orbit has sent me free
replacements but gravity just lets the mineral water we've got collect into nasty stuff and clog up anything that moves. Other kinds of battery
operated timers either didn't open or didn't close, from the very start. I've got them going off a rv pump using a spare panel and two pretty dead
batteries. Runs the half hour I need it.
I was wondering if the regular sprinkler valves would open and close more forcibly? I have more power than I need but hate to come home to a valve
that didn't close and wasted water. |
I am using the DIG 9001 series of 9v automatic hose timers. They only have one zone but they can start and stop up to four times a day, on any day you choose.
I am using these on a pressurized system. I have had one leakage incident on one of them in 8 months. Working the valve "manually" (still only
pressing a button) cleared the suspected buildup and got it working again immediately. Mineral buildup is just a fact of life with drip irrigation
down here.
I'm using the Orbit 1/4" soaker line that is simply 1/4" tubing with pre-pierced holes about every 5 inches. I use this in a 20x30 vegetable garden.
These holes create a telltale wetness pattern around each hole. When these begin to disappear (irregularly throughout the entire system) I just come
along with a push pin and GENTLY route out the orifice. I walk my garden during my irrigation period virtually every day. While checking for signs of
infestations, I inspect the watering patterns.
Mas Pacifico, when your timers failed in the ON position, how much water was actually getting past the valve? When mine began to leak, even at an
input of 25-30 psi, the leakage was very small; acceptable for the plants it was watering (cissus, squash, citrus). I cant imagine a gravity fed
system would be letting much through, unless it was a wholesale failure of the valve to shut.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64488
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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| Quote: | Originally posted by larryC
David
I found a Melnor 3100 http://www.melnor.com/products-aquatimers.php here at my place in Bahia, it works, atleast when I put batteries in it the valves open and close.
Will it work for what I am trying to do? Doesn't seem ro need any pressure.
Larry |
Hi Larry,
If it works, great! I just looked at their web site and also opened the instructions link for your model. There is no information (that I could find)
on min. or max. operating pressure. If there is no minimum pressure top work the valve then your only concern is the emitters...
Many pressure compensating emitters are also 'self cleaning' and need a minimum pressure to work, otherwise they may just 'flush out' (wide open)
under 10 psi. You would need to use laminar flow or turbulent flow emitters which simply drip less at less pressure. Turbulant flow are the most clog
resistant. Laminar flow have a flag on top used to twist and pull the emitter apart for manual cleaning as they clug more easily.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64488
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Hook
| Quote: | Originally posted by maspacifico
The Orbit timers, four zone things, worked great on gravity.....for about 6 months. Then they wouldn't shut off all the way. Orbit has sent me free
replacements but gravity just lets the mineral water we've got collect into nasty stuff and clog up anything that moves. Other kinds of battery
operated timers either didn't open or didn't close, from the very start. I've got them going off a rv pump using a spare panel and two pretty dead
batteries. Runs the half hour I need it.
I was wondering if the regular sprinkler valves would open and close more forcibly? I have more power than I need but hate to come home to a valve
that didn't close and wasted water. |
I am using the DIG 9001 series of 9v automatic hose timers. They only have one zone but they can start and stop up to four times a day, on any day you choose.
I am using these on a pressurized system. I have had one leakage incident on one of them in 8 months. Working the valve "manually" (still only
pressing a button) cleared the suspected buildup and got it working again immediately. Mineral buildup is just a fact of life with drip irrigation
down here.
I'm using the Orbit 1/4" soaker line that is simply 1/4" tubing with pre-pierced holes about every 5 inches. I use this in a 20x30 vegetable garden.
These holes create a telltale wetness pattern around each hole. When these begin to disappear (irregularly throughout the entire system) I just come
along with a push pin and GENTLY route out the orifice. I walk my garden during my irrigation period virtually every day. While checking for signs of
infestations, I inspect the watering patterns.
Mas Pacifico, when your timers failed in the ON position, how much water was actually getting past the valve? When mine began to leak, even at an
input of 25-30 psi, the leakage was very small; acceptable for the plants it was watering (cissus, squash, citrus). I cant imagine a gravity fed
system would be letting much through, unless it was a wholesale failure of the valve to shut. |
DIG is the brand of battery controllers I use when there is no power available, like in an avocado grove or new construction site. It does require
water pressure, however.
Hook, next time you are stateside, get some of the 1/4" emitterline instead of laser cut tube if you want a longer lasting or non-clogging soaker tube
for your gardens or planter beds... Laser tubing is just a simple hole cut in the tube... and it takes very little to clog a hole.
Emitterline (dripperline) has turbulent flow emitters pre-installed inside the tube at either 6" or 12" spacing. They are very clog resistant and
might give you years of service. The 6" spacing tube can be used on runs up to 15 feet long and the 12" can be run up to 33 feet long... and have even
output from one end to the other. It is sold in 100 ft. rolls... maybe less at retail outlets.
Laser tube has much shorter run lengths, because there is no control of water output other than a hole... too long and you have more water near the
start and less the longer you go... your veggies will be uneven!
Both the 6" and 12" spacing will water the same pattern (a foot wide and down the length of vegetables), but the 6" uses twice the water (per foot)
and may need only run 20-30 minutes for enough water. The 12" may need to run 40-60 minutes to give a solid wet look along the surface, and apply a
half gallon per foot.
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