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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64479
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Mexitron
David--The three houses I've worked on since moving back to CA have all had me convert sprinklers to drip (The Netafim knockoff stuff at
Ewing)---amazing how attitudes have changed in five years! $Water probably helps too. Keep up the good work. |
What? No more Texas??
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64479
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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| Quote: | Originally posted by ncampion
| Quote: | Originally posted by Jim/Liisa
| Quote: | Originally posted by MitchMan
FWIW, if you just need a couple of trees or certain few plants irrigated in your absence from Baja, here's a simple solution. Home Depot or OSH or
Lowe's in USA has a AA battery operated valve that that can serve one or two hoses. Simply screw this valve directly on the spigot and leave the
spigot open. I use the spigot that would serve the outside provision for a washing machine, that way my tinaco on top of the house can supply a
constant anytime supply of water.
Once the valve is screwed onto the spigot, use reguler garden hose to get close to or in between the two or three plants you want to irrigate. At the
end of the hose, screw on a 1 foot lenght of another hose (spare hose and cut it at 1 foot length. Stuff a 1 foot length of 1/4 inch plastic tubing
in it and put a "T" at the other end of the 1 ft plastic tube. Use more 14 inch plastic tube to go from the "T" to the plants. Done.
The battery powered valve cost about $25-$35 USD. I have used this system for the past year to irrigate my orange tree, the mango tree and the lime
tree and it works flawlessly and reliably. I will be back in Baja at the end of the month and will post photos of my system to make it clearer and
easier to understand if anyone is interested.
It's cheap, it's easy to do, will work for more than three plants, only needs minimal water pressure. |
MitchMan,
Don't mean to scare you but if the water is very hard like it is at my home in Calif. The interior valve will build up with calcium and if your lucky,
it will freez up on the closed cycle but mine always froze up on the open cyclel.
I have tried several makes and they all have done the same thing. Had used them for my Koi pond to keep it toped off during the summer heat. Lucky for
Me they failed while I was home, not in Mexico. Lucky for Me we have our Son home most of the time.
I quite using them for that reason. |
I'm using similar valves at my house in Loreto and have heard about the "stuck open" problem from another person. Is there any way to "de-calcify"
them periodicly, maybe with viniger or something? I guess you would have to keep it from the electronics. Any thoughts, David???
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http://sperchemical.com/html/lineclear_irrigation_treatment....
Too complicated? Then white vinegar... if you can induce it into the water ahead of the control valve (Add-It type of fertilizer injector, for
example.)
It isn't a problem with water here in SoCal, so I don't have a nifty quick solution, other than the above.
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Barry A.
Select Nomad
Posts: 10007
Registered: 11-30-2003
Location: Redding, Northern CA
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Mood: optimistic
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Mexitron
| Quote: | Originally posted by Barry A.
| Quote: | Originally posted by mulegemichael
marty....remember the single most important thing that you shouldn't do to meyers lemons is overwater...WAAAYYYYY reduce your watering cycle to them
and you won't have blossom drop in the spring....we cut our watering cycle way way back last spring and now have scores and scores of lemons almost
ready to harvest...that's all we did differently and it made a huge difference....learned that from a rancher down here that grows organic produce for
trader joes. |
I wonder if that phylosophy would apply to my dwarf ORO BLANCO GRAPEFRUIT tree that I have in a 30 gallon Mexican pot. I have had it for years, and
it always produces lots of blooms, and then lots of tiny pea-size fruit, but all but about 1 to 4 drop off fast when still pea size. The one's that
survive are delicious, but for years I never get more than 1 to 4 fruit per year. It gets automatically watered every other day in the heat (100 +)
of summer.
Barry |
Barry---I'd say it has as much to do with the plant being in a pot---even dwarf fruit trees take a lot of fertilizer and precise watering to get
significant fruit when they're in a pot. The winters in Redding might be a little cool for a grapefruit too---the OroBlanco doesn't like it much
below 30 degs---though I'm sure they love that summer heat! |
Thanks, Mexitron, I think you are right. Tho we seldom drop below 30 right in Redding, and I do cover it when that happens, the tree has never been
too healthy and seems to be struggleing 365 days a year and it is 9 years old. I think that my watering schedule is off (too much?), and maybe I give
it TOO MUCH citrus fertilizer, I can't be sure?!?!?!?. It does seem to "hang on", but just not improve or produce like it should. It has excellent
drainage, and good soil, so I don't think that is the problem. The little guy is only 5 feet tall (above soil level), and about 3 feet in diameter,
but has much fewer leaves than a "normal" citrus, and the leaves are too yellowish, I'm thinking. My potted lemon tree nearby about the same size
does just fine, looks fine, produces tons of lemons, and always has for 26 years, and is on the same watering schedule, and same fertilizing schedule.
Mystery, for sure. We make a ritual out of eating the 1 to 4 grapefruits a year, and they are soooooo good!!!!
Thanks again, Barry
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David K
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Posts: 64479
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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The OroBlanco is great because it is actually a hybrid cross of a grapefruit (which needs desert heat to be sweet) and a Pommelo (which does not need
hot weather to sweeten, but is eaten like a naval orange instead of with a spoon).
I believe the OroBlanco was developed at UC Riverside? People wanted to grow grapefruit in their Southern California coastal climate... but didn't
have the heat of Indio (or Texas) to make them taste better.
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larryC
Super Nomad
Posts: 1482
Registered: 8-11-2008
Location: BoLA
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| Quote: | Originally posted by larryC
David
Well, I finally got the stuff I needed to put together my drip system. I buried the poly tubing so that in the summer time the burros and horses won't
bite the tubing. Then I punched a whole in the poly tube and inserted the micro tube into the poly tube and ran it to my plants. I then put the
emmiters on the end of the micro tube. Hooked it all up and turned it on with only gravity pressure. It worked. Now it remains to be seen how long it
will work. I didn't know that you could put all the tubes underground, I may bury the emmitters and micro tube. Do you have a suggestion for how often
I should water Bouganvillas? Right now I have it set for everyother day for 15 mins.
Larry | Quote: |
June 16, 2012
Just an update, After more than a year the Melnor timer and all the emitters are working perfectly, no problems what so ever. I installed the 4
batteries last August and they are still working fine. I think I will replace the the batteries now since I am leaving for the summer. Couldn't be
happier with the system, thanks David for the help and advice.
Larry
[Edited on 6-16-2012 by larryC] |
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64479
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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So great to hear a follow-up! Thank you Larry! Yes, it all can be burried, but water long enough, otherwise roots will 'look' for the water and bunch
up around the emitters.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64479
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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An update on battery powered controllers, since this was first posted (2008), my supplier (Ewing Irrigation) has phased out the DIG brand of battery
controllers and stocks instead the Hunter NODE controller. I have installed a few of these NODE controllers, and they have worked flawlessly. The only
issue is that they are made to work with Hunter valves (with the special battery activated, latching solenoid and don't have an adapting valve
actuator for the brass (Champion/Orbit/Superior) manual valves.
If you do not already have manual valves, then you can buy the battery operated valves to go with the NODE controller, from the start.
http://www.hunterindustries.com/irrigation-product/controlle...
There are other options for battery powered valves as well as solar powered... I have yet to test them out!
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Jack Swords
Super Nomad
Posts: 1094
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: Nipomo, CA/La Paz, BCS
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We use the Node controller and latching solenoid on the main line to our home next to the water meter. Water is only turned on to the house and 1 1/2
acres for an hour each week while we spend months in Baja. That hour is when the irrigation controllers actuate and water our greenhouse and orchard.
Thankfully, in the winter, that is all that is needed with the winter rains. I have a fear of a line break etc. that would leave the water meter
running for months. This way a broken line would only run for that hour per week.
Latching solenoids only require power from the 9v batteries when actuated and disengaged. The solenoid has a small permanent magnet that holds the
solenoid open until the momentary reversing current is applied, therefore closing the solenoid. Batteries can last up to two years in the controller
as a result. Other nonlatching solenoids require current to hold the solenoid open for the duration. Not to mention
the Node device is extremely well built for reliability.
Hey David...I'm having to replace all my 1/2 in drip hose here in Nipomo (about 3000 feet). Tubing is cracking and spewing water all over my wallet!
The stuff is only 35 or so years old. Stuff just won't last.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64479
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Jack Swords
Hey David...I'm having to replace all my 1/2 in drip hose here in Nipomo (about 3000 feet). Tubing is cracking and spewing water all over my wallet!
The stuff is only 35 or so years old. Stuff just won't last. |
35 years is even a bit longer than I have been installing the stuff! What brand, are there labels, colored stripes, and markings?
Reed (Rypol and Durapol) in El Cajon and Bayshore in Chula Vista were the big poly hose makers in San Diego when I got into the industry in 1980. Now,
you want tubing to contain a min. of 2% carbon black to give max. resistance to UV.
I think the perfecting of UV protection was in its infancy then, Any new quality hose you get now should last even longer than any of us!
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LosCabosbound
Junior Nomad
Posts: 38
Registered: 10-28-2007
Location: La Costa California /Mykonos San Jose
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Thanks for all the info DK. I will be going through a backyard remodel over the next month or two. I currently have the standard "spray water
everywhere" system. Is it costly to convert the old system to drip?
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64479
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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| Quote: | Originally posted by LosCabosbound
Thanks for all the info DK. I will be going through a backyard remodel over the next month or two. I currently have the standard "spray water
everywhere" system. Is it costly to convert the old system to drip? |
Not too bad... It really depends on what you are watering and if the tubes will lay where they need to deliver the water and can be hidden by plant
growth or by mulch if you don't want to see them.
Next week, I am converting several planter beds around a house from typical sprays on riser pipes to Netafim dripperline.
First part is to add a 'drip' filter and regulator to the pipe where it leaves the valve. Now, all the water going to the planters fed by that valve
is drip ready (filtered and regulated).
Then I pick one of the sprinklers in each planter to convert to dripperline and close off the other sprinklers in the bed. I run the dripperline so it
is between 1-2 feet apart, 'snaking' it back and fourth.
Now, all the roots will get watered evenly, without spraying into the air, against the house or onto the sidewalk! 
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Mexitron
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3397
Registered: 9-21-2003
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
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| Quote: | Originally posted by David K
An update on battery powered controllers, since this was first posted (2008), my supplier (Ewing Irrigation) has phased out the DIG brand of battery
controllers and stocks instead the Hunter NODE controller. I have installed a few of these NODE controllers, and they have worked flawlessly. The only
issue is that they are made to work with Hunter valves (with the special battery activated, latching solenoid and don't have an adapting valve
actuator for the brass (Champion/Orbit/Superior) manual valves.
If you do not already have manual valves, then you can buy the battery operated valves to go with the NODE controller, from the start.
http://www.hunterindustries.com/irrigation-product/controlle...
There are other options for battery powered valves as well as solar powered... I have yet to test them out! |
I had a DIG battery controller for my plants out in Borrego in 2005....I learned too late that the coyotes/rabbits will chew thru the drip lines to
get water so even though the controller worked great it was too late for the plants by the time I found out....I abandoned the garden, then ended up
moving to Texas until 2011. This last year I've been rehabilitating some of the garden---got one of those HD hose end controllers for the short term
and its working ok. When I was digging around to put in a new gate valve I found the old DIG controller buried, literally, in the old valve box---it
was full of sand inside and out. I chucked it aside. Last time I was out there I was cleaning up the site of trash/old stuff and brought the DIG
back home to throw it out....just out of curiosity I cleaned all the sand out of it and plugged in some new batteries---it still worked! Keep in mind
that the summer heat in Borrego melted two other plastic valves and turns brownline pipe black. I may just use that DIG again after I test it for
awhile.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64479
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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I never had problems with the black, rectangular DIG controller, Israeli import. The newer style (oval) one I didn't like as well. In any case Ewing
only has the Hunter Node one now.
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Mexitron
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Location: Fort Worth, Texas
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Mine is the square one, never tried the oval.
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MitchMan
Super Nomad
Posts: 1855
Registered: 3-9-2009
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Just an update on my AA battery operated digital "Orbit" brand $27 USD valves. Have been using the same valve for two years now with no problems in
La Paz. The valve is connected to 3/4" hose that supplies irrigation from my roof top Tinaco through the spigot on the side of my house that was
intended for an outdoor washing machine. The valve is screwed onto the spigot and the hose that supplies the water to the plants is screwed onto the
bottom of the digital valve.
The digital valve has a little screen intake filter. Also, I recently installed a cistern system that supplies water to the roof top Tinaco. I now
have two water filters: one between the street source of water to the cistern tank and another filter between the cistern tank and the roof top
tinaco. Therefore, the tinaco water gets filtered twice. Hopefully those filters will keep the digital battery operated valve from freezing in the
open position.
This valve now supplies irrigation through one line to a Mango tree, an orange tree, a lime tree, two palma kerpi's and one fan palm. These plants
are watered every other day for 26 minutes. Not sure, but I think this supplies about 26 gallons total at each watering. The instructions for the
valve say to change batteries once every year. I change them every six months.
So far so good.
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Santiago
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3499
Registered: 8-27-2003
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MM: is this the one you are using?
The manual for this says it requires a minimum psi of 20#. Is your system gravity fed or pressurized?
Thanks
[Edited on 8-7-2013 by Santiago]
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MitchMan
Super Nomad
Posts: 1855
Registered: 3-9-2009
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That is the exact device I am using. My system is gravity fed only, not pressurized.
I do not know what the pressure is that my system achieves at the valve, but I do know that the water does in fact flow quite well. With the cistern
system, my one story roof top 900 Liter tinaco will never be less than 70% full. In my absence from La Paz, the tinaco will never be less than 85%
full.
There is a formula for calculating the gravity produced water pressure at an outlet. I am going to study it today to calculate what the pressure
should be at the valve. I know all the pertinent dimensions of things, so I should be able to do the calculation.
But, it does work and it always has since I have had the valve. I love that valve.
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RnR
Senior Nomad
Posts: 836
Registered: 5-1-2010
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Conversion --
2.31 ft of water = 1 lb/sq in
For a tinaco on the roof of a one story house -
You only have about 5 psi ....
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MitchMan
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Posts: 1855
Registered: 3-9-2009
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I just finished some calculations and 5.5 psi is what I came up with. It is probably less due to friction in the lines. The significant point is
that it is no where near 20 lbs. Read some reviews on Amazon and those that gave it a poor rating had it on much higher water pressure. The fact
that my water pressure is low is probably why it has lasted and performed so well.
No sure about anything for sure, but I do know that it has worked for two years non stop.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64479
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Well, keep the reports coming in. The way I calculate pressure is the per foot PSI change of 0.433. So Every 10 feet of drop you gain 4.33 PSI of
pressure. You lose the same amount of pressure if you go up.
"for 26 minutes. Not sure, but I think this supplies about 26 gallons total at each watering. "
This means you are flowing '1 gallon per minute' (60 gallons per hour, in drip talk)... so 60 '1 gph' emitters or 30 '2 gph' emitters at design
pressure (15 psi usually for non-compensating emitters). 5.5 psi would mean less water coming out, however.
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