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BajaNomad
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...and then checking out what remains of the sunset....
When I was young, I admired clever people. Now that I am old, I admire kind people.
– Rabbi Abraham Joshua Heschel
We know we must go back if we live, and we don`t know why.
– John Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
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BajaNomad
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Here (the following morning - old palapa behind me), showing Ryland a map of the peninsula, and where we were on it - as he'd inquired with me.
When I was young, I admired clever people. Now that I am old, I admire kind people.
– Rabbi Abraham Joshua Heschel
We know we must go back if we live, and we don`t know why.
– John Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
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BajaNomad
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...and then - I think - explaining about how the tides come in and go out so far at the lagoon.
When I was young, I admired clever people. Now that I am old, I admire kind people.
– Rabbi Abraham Joshua Heschel
We know we must go back if we live, and we don`t know why.
– John Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
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BajaNomad
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When we made our way over to Maldo and Catalina's place in the morning, I was somewhat surprised, but they were waiting for us.
Catalina made us coffee, some quesadillas and eggs... and we spent much longer than I anticipated visiting with the two of them. Maldo told me about
the de-salinization plant at the end of the lagoon (said it pumps about 8 gallons/minute of fresh water), told me that the paved road towards the
lagoon had been put in over the past year, and that - this is what he told me - the highway would be paved within 4 years all the way to San Juanico.
He said something along the lines of Televisa having big $$$ invested in San Juanico, and they were financing (or a big reason behind) the
construction of the paved highway.
Oh, and for the record, he said there were only about 4-5 whales out in the lagoon, and they were males out in the mouth of the lagoon, not the
mothers and calves inside the lagoon that make for the best whale-watching trips there.
His advice, FYI: come back and see them in mid-April when all the tourists have left, and the wind has died down, but most/many of the whales are
still there.
Maldo told us that 80% or more of his whale-watching clientele was from the USA - and that reservations were waaaay down, and getting smaller, as they
were receiving many cancellations. I believe he said it was the same for the other operators there as well. FYI - Maldo is a great resource down
here, because he is either the only - or one of few - whale-watching guides that actually live at the lagoon full-time year-round.
I asked about his "Campo Cortez" - and he said that currently they have made it into an all-inclusive eco-friendly lagoon-front lodge, very close to
the whales. All your food and bevs are included, along with a cabin for two, and a whale-watching trip - for $150/night/pp. I believe this is a
little less than what it costs if you book through his main marketing partner Johnny Friday and Baja Eco Tours. You can read about Campo Cortez off
the Baja Eco Tours website:
http://www.bajaecotours.com/whale-watching-sanignacio/accomm...
If anyone's interested, to book with Maldo directly, you can either call him, or send an email to him (they only check email so-often though):
(615) 103-0349 home tel
lagunamaldo (at) yahoo.com
[for email, remove the spaces above and replace (at) with an @ symbol]
He didn't say so, but I believe there are still more affordable prices ($60 or less) for those people that show up on their own at the lagoon and want
to go whale watching. I remember when it was $25/pp, then $35/pp. Ahh, well. Progress.
Here we are visiting with Maldo in the morning...
When I was young, I admired clever people. Now that I am old, I admire kind people.
– Rabbi Abraham Joshua Heschel
We know we must go back if we live, and we don`t know why.
– John Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
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BajaNomad
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And a picture for Ryland with Maldo...
When I was young, I admired clever people. Now that I am old, I admire kind people.
– Rabbi Abraham Joshua Heschel
We know we must go back if we live, and we don`t know why.
– John Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
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BajaNomad
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Maldo gave us a very precise map to find Cuco 40 km south. - and so we wouldn't pass his fish camp, Cuco met us out in the middle of the desert on the
top of a small mesa.
In visiting with Maldo longer than anticipated, by the time we got down to see Cuco, we became somewhat time-limited (urgh!). We visited with Cuco,
and met his wife, and two young kiddos, Jane and Fortunato (Fortunado?) out on that mesa. Cuco also gave me his email address, and asked when we'd
return. I felt absolutely horrible that we didn't spend more time with Cuco and his family, and that I wasn't able to tell him we'd definitely be
back in the next few months (to go whale-watching, but to also get a chance to visit with him more).
Pic: with Cuco up on the mesa; south of Laguna San Ignacio.
When I was young, I admired clever people. Now that I am old, I admire kind people.
– Rabbi Abraham Joshua Heschel
We know we must go back if we live, and we don`t know why.
– John Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
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BajaNomad
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Cuco's wife and two children...
When I was young, I admired clever people. Now that I am old, I admire kind people.
– Rabbi Abraham Joshua Heschel
We know we must go back if we live, and we don`t know why.
– John Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
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BajaNomad
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Doug, Ryland, Cuco & Fortunato...
When I was young, I admired clever people. Now that I am old, I admire kind people.
– Rabbi Abraham Joshua Heschel
We know we must go back if we live, and we don`t know why.
– John Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
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BajaNomad
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So, after visiting with Cuco for what seemed way too short of time, we said our goodbyes and Michelle, Ryland and I continued our journey even further
south.
I find it amazing that we took not a single picture of the salt flats that I love driving on in this area, but again have some pics from where the
road starts heading back inland and then as we got closer to San Juanico.
Here, the road later on...
When I was young, I admired clever people. Now that I am old, I admire kind people.
– Rabbi Abraham Joshua Heschel
We know we must go back if we live, and we don`t know why.
– John Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
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BajaNomad
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They had a military stop out on this road not too far north of San Juanico, and just past the military stop we came up on a couple of men from San
Juanico whose truck was stopped in the road. When we inquired if they needed help, they told us they were out of gas...
...so we spotted Javier and friend a couple of gallons to get back to San Juanico:
[Edited on 1-12-2009 by BajaNomad]
When I was young, I admired clever people. Now that I am old, I admire kind people.
– Rabbi Abraham Joshua Heschel
We know we must go back if we live, and we don`t know why.
– John Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
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BajaNomad
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Here, the San Juanico Weather Station is looking, well, a bit "weathered":
When I was young, I admired clever people. Now that I am old, I admire kind people.
– Rabbi Abraham Joshua Heschel
We know we must go back if we live, and we don`t know why.
– John Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
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BajaNomad
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I seldom hear it mentioned, but San Juanico is one of few actual towns located along the Pacific coast of the Baja peninsula that is actually exposed
to the open ocean. Many of the others have some sort of natural protection from the open ocean - a bay, a sandbar, or they've set the main part of
town in and away from the coastal area.... but where the town is located, it doesn't really apply here.
When I was young, I admired clever people. Now that I am old, I admire kind people.
– Rabbi Abraham Joshua Heschel
We know we must go back if we live, and we don`t know why.
– John Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
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BajaNomad
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.
When I was young, I admired clever people. Now that I am old, I admire kind people.
– Rabbi Abraham Joshua Heschel
We know we must go back if we live, and we don`t know why.
– John Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
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BajaNomad
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.
When I was young, I admired clever people. Now that I am old, I admire kind people.
– Rabbi Abraham Joshua Heschel
We know we must go back if we live, and we don`t know why.
– John Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
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BajaNomad
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Heading south out of San Juanico on the way to the La Purisima-Insurgentes highway, we must've been passed by a dozen of these dump trucks (picture
below) headed the opposite direction (at about 5pm).
Oh, the road headed south out of San Juanico is a paved 2-lane highway now for about 8 miles. Looks like it might've gone about 10 miles or so
originally, but there appear to be some washouts of the new road already.
When I was young, I admired clever people. Now that I am old, I admire kind people.
– Rabbi Abraham Joshua Heschel
We know we must go back if we live, and we don`t know why.
– John Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
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BajaNomad
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Still one main water crossing, located just off the La Purisima-Insurgentes highway...
...here, wet, but TOO high anyway...
When I was young, I admired clever people. Now that I am old, I admire kind people.
– Rabbi Abraham Joshua Heschel
We know we must go back if we live, and we don`t know why.
– John Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
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BajaNomad
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.
When I was young, I admired clever people. Now that I am old, I admire kind people.
– Rabbi Abraham Joshua Heschel
We know we must go back if we live, and we don`t know why.
– John Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
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BajaNomad
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We got into Ciudad Constitucion just as it was about to get dark, and decided to find a place to stay there for the night. While I've looked at rooms
in town before when I was keeping the escapist.com site up:
http://www.escapist.com/baja/constitution.htm
...I've never actually spent a night in Constitucion - until now.
And at a place I had NOT seen before - possibly it wasn't here at that time either, I don't know. We stayed at the Hotel Oasis - if for no other
reason(s) than I heard it was clean and a good value - and they had free WIRELESS INTERNET in the rooms.
All true. Don't hesitate to stay here. I think it worked out to be something around US$35/night/double - and the Internet there ran very well for
me.
When we were up in Laguna San Ignacio I had noticed at one point some fluid on the inside of the front-left wheel well of the Tacoma, but didn't think
much else about it other than it being something I had driven in that had splashed up.
When we got to Constitucion, when I filled up at the Pemex, I looked again, and it was all over the place now, and there was now fluid down the left
side underneath the truck. My assessment in looking at it was that it couldn't have been much else other than the shock or the brake line - and I was
trying to tell the source from the spray pattern - to no avail.
Later that night, I posted to the forum here requesting a referral to a mechanic either in Constitucion, or since the truck was driveable, somewhere
between there and La Paz - where we were heading next - and was referred by Longlegsinlapaz to Dario, whom I found the next day. Here was my request
that day:
http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=36132
To make a long story short, Dario took me to two auto repair shops - and neither one could determine the source of the fluid - which was visible to
them.
I knew my motor oil level was good, and the brake fluid level was still good - and even if it was the shock, it was very driveable. So, I thanked
Dario (and thank you Longlegsinlapaz for the referral), and we were on our way south once again.
Here, in the Hotel Oasis room checking email (and later, the BajaNomad forums):
When I was young, I admired clever people. Now that I am old, I admire kind people.
– Rabbi Abraham Joshua Heschel
We know we must go back if we live, and we don`t know why.
– John Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
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BajaNomad
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To be continued later.... I need some sleep... and some of the better pictures, beaches, etc., are still yet to come....
-
Doug
When I was young, I admired clever people. Now that I am old, I admire kind people.
– Rabbi Abraham Joshua Heschel
We know we must go back if we live, and we don`t know why.
– John Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
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shari
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So glad you got back to baja Doug....but bummed you didnt grace us with your presence...we were all ready to roll out the red carpet! Maybe next time.
thanks for the info on san ignacio...Maldo is the finest whale guy in the lagoon and I'm glad he's doing well there...I highly recommend him. It was
nice to see photos of them...that Cuco is a looker al right!!! So is he not working as a guide anymore then? too bad...he was excellent.
The feds have been checking car registrations and papers for monthe now at the san ignacio check point. I imagine that if your stuff isnt in
order...there may be another way of dealing with it.....as you mentioned.
look forward to the rest of your report
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