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Baja12valve
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Posts: 185
Registered: 7-12-2006
Location: Oak View
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Thinking of climbing Picacho del Diablo
This is something I have wanted to do for a long time and a window is opening for me in mid August. I have some information about the hike/climb, but
it is not really current. Are there any current books, or chapters in books that have good information? Does any Nomad have any first hand knowledge?
I am aware that August is not the ideal time to go and if the general consensus is "wait until Spring" prevails, I will wait, but since I have the
opportunity, so far, I am going for it. There will be three, and maybe five in our group. I am allowing three days, two up and one down. Any help is
appreciated, thanks.
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David K
Honored Nomad
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You bet, use the Nomad search at the top of the page... bajaandy climbed it a couple years ago and Desert Rat got most of the way up...
2007: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=24221
2005: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=17017
[Edited on 7-11-2009 by David K]
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mtgoat666
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Mood: Hot n spicy
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Baja12valve
This is something I have wanted to do for a long time and a window is opening for me in mid August. I have some information about the hike/climb, but
it is not really current. Are there any current books, or chapters in books that have good information? Does any Nomad have any first hand knowledge?
I am aware that August is not the ideal time to go and if the general consensus is "wait until Spring" prevails, I will wait, but since I have the
opportunity, so far, I am going for it. There will be three, and maybe five in our group. I am allowing three days, two up and one down. Any help is
appreciated, thanks. |
August is OK time, but almost daily T-storms in late summer may keep you off the peak. There are a couple climbers logs on internet that have good
route descriptions -- use Google (I can't remember links). Buy Jerry Schad's map for route finding.
Be prepared to not accomplish climb on first attempt; route finding is very difficult, and trip is long. But is easy second time.
It's a great hike and climb -- but lots of vertical gain/loss, so get in shape.
[Edited on 7-11-2009 by mtgoat666]
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David K
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This link is one I have on my web site links page, it has the map MtGoat mentions: http://www.dankat.com/swhikes/devil.htm
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Baja12valve
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Great responses, thanks. I will be looking up the information. From experience I never think I can make any summit attempt.
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Dave
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I've climbed Blue Bottle, not Diablo but seen it up close. There are three routes...two really as the ridge route is very difficult. Canyon route from
the east or Blue Bottle ridge down canyon and up. It's my understanding that from the canyon base at campo noche climbing routes are well described
and ducked.
There's a thread here from someone who made the attempt using the canyon route.
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mtgoat666
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Desert Rat
Baja 12 valve,
It would be a good idea to check with someone with authority at the San Pedro Martir Parque if you plan to climb Picacho from the western
approach. It appears that there is a new regulation that requires you to have a certified guide with you if you make the attempt as a registered park
visitor. Just a suggestion. |
where did you hear this?
doubt it would be possible to find sufficient local guides with stamina to keep up with typical climbers, as this is a hike/climb mostly done by
experienced fit climbers that travel fast.
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Baja12valve
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I am still following this. Not having been to the Martir Parque, is there some sort of visitors center, manned headquarters or other that would have
this guide information? When we get there, if there is nothing apparent, I won't look around much. Seems like I would just be stirring up a major
hassle. I am skeptical of "hiring a guide" for three days. I would far rather explore and not make it than be bound to some guide. I have a lot
experience in the mountains.
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bajalou
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See Desert Rat's post on another thread.
http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=17017&pag...
No Bad Days
\"Never argue with an idiot. People watching may not be able to tell the difference\"
\"The trouble with doing nothing is - how do I know when I\'m done?\"
Nomad Baja Interactive map
And in the San Felipe area - check out Valle Chico area |
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Baja12valve
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Bajalou, thanks for the link, good reading. I will have to look at the guide situation, seems like it is real.
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Baja12valve
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Thanks mtgoat666 for posting a updated encounter with the rangers and attempt to do the climb . Sorry you were surprised the guide requirement and
stopped by the ranger. That is one of the things I was afraid of, you are required to have a guide, but none are provided and you are on your own to
get one, somewhere.
Next question, is there ANY way to get in touch with the rangers or a official that would be of a help? I may go the eastern route if all else fails.
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mtgoat666
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Baja12valve
Thanks mtgoat666 for posting a updated encounter with the rangers and attempt to do the climb . Sorry you were surprised the guide requirement and
stopped by the ranger. That is one of the things I was afraid of, you are required to have a guide, but none are provided and you are on your own to
get one, somewhere.
Next question, is there ANY way to get in touch with the rangers or a official that would be of a help? I may go the eastern route if all else fails.
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don't thank me, t'was not me that wrote it.
haven't been there this year, yet. prior times i told gate keeper i was going to picacho, he asked me if i knew what i was getting into, suggested i
consider something easier or seek guidance. i think their normal response to picacho climbers is to scare them away, because it's a tough climb (not
tough technically, but tough due to route finding, elev gain/loss, distance, remoteness, weather exposure), and is probably a pain in the *ss for them
to stage rescues.
anywho, i too have got the third degree at the gate, and learned to be coy with my answers. it's always good to tell park staff where you are headed,
as you never know when you may get in trouble and need help, so i don't advocate lying to gate keeper. it is really remote, and if you break your
leg, someone may not be along for a week or two or three
for park contact info, you probably can call the main park office which is ensenada (sorry, don't have number).
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bajaandy
Senior Nomad
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Baja12valve,
I am glad to hear that you want to attempt Diablo. It is in my book one very rewarding climb. You really have to work to get that peak, and it when
you do, it's SO worth it. Took me two attempts due to poor route finding the first time.
I am saddened to hear that the Parque is attempting to enforce a guide requirement, as I don't believe it's really necessary. Perhaps a method to
appease them would be to have on hand a certificate of some kind that you have had proper mountaineering education. Or maybe you are a "certified"
mountain guide yourself? (Wink wink, nod nod.)
Here is the link to my TR
http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=24301#pid2234...
And here is a link to the same report, with pictures, posted on SummitPost.org
http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/290534/Picacho-del-Dia...
I'm not sure about your timing though... I think it may be a tad on the warm side to climb in August. And mtgoat already warned you about the
T-storms. I honestly don't know if there will be water in the creek in August. I suspect so, but I'd hate to get down in there and then find out it's
dried up.
As others have noted, this particular climb does indeed tax both your physical stamina as well as your route finding skills. I tried to be fairly
detailed in my trip report, but if you want I'd be happy to send you my phone number and talk to you about it.
Hit me up if you want any other info or have questions.
Cheers,
Andy
[Edited on 7-15-2009 by bajaandy]
subvert the dominant paradigm
"If you travel with a man, you must either fall out with him or make him your good friend."
JBL Noel
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bajaandy
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And here is a link to the failed attempt the previous year. Read carefully where we went wrong and try to avoid doing the same thing.
http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/246596/Thrashing-on-Di...
subvert the dominant paradigm
"If you travel with a man, you must either fall out with him or make him your good friend."
JBL Noel
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bajaandy
Senior Nomad
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And here are some photos, some showing the route.
http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=24221#pid2229...
subvert the dominant paradigm
"If you travel with a man, you must either fall out with him or make him your good friend."
JBL Noel
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Baja12valve
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bajaandy, and to all the others, thanks for all the information, it has been a real help and has provided me with a lot of direction. I will have to
try to contact a Park Ranger or somebody to figure out the guide issue. Who knows, maybe I can talk them into letting me go, I have been a member of
Search and Rescue for many years. I can see that conditioning is very important, this type of hiking/climbing is very tiring and it is very easy to
make a mistake, and it only takes one. At this point from what I have learned, August may come too soon, I just may not have enough time to get all my
ducks (pun intended) in line. In a few days I will be spending a week+ on the JMT, hopefully to summit Whitney from the backside. Diablo is something
that can't be rushed or I will pay the consequences.
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David K
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After driving hundreds or thousands of miles, and knowing there are NO GUIDES available at San Pedro Martir to hire... the rangers sound like they
don't want to be bothered with a rescue operation... which they shouldn't feel obligated to perform.
Climbing any mountain is done so at your own risk... Go with many others to play it safe... Have a satellite phone if you need to be rescued (from
someone other than the rangers).
Desert Rat, I am sorry your dream was stolen from you by that ranger... You could always say... "Oh is THAT Diablo Mountain... ?!!"
See Desert Rat in 1994 walking from San Felipe to Gonzaga Bay, after reading Graham Mackintosh's first book: http://vivabaja.com/desert_rat
[Edited on 7-15-2009 by David K]
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bajaandy
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Baja12valve... If you're SAR, I would think that would be your ticket right there. I'd at least fight for it if they said differently. Enjoy the JMT.
That was on my list for this year, but a ruptured Achilles tendon changed those plans. Whitney from the back side via Guitar lake is cool, but not
carrying your pack up to trail crest. Ugh...
subvert the dominant paradigm
"If you travel with a man, you must either fall out with him or make him your good friend."
JBL Noel
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Baja12valve
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bajaandy........ I never like playing my SAR card, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. Sorry about your ruptured Achilles tendon, my
brother did the same, but he is fully recovered. Hope you do too. Yeah, the JMT should be fun, I never said it would be easy. For bettor or worse, I
know the drill, I have been to the top three times so far but by no means that is a guarantee for a successful trip this time. Thanks for the words of
encouragement.
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fernando
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Hi I have a guide that has done Picacho several times if you want i can arrange something so he could be your guide.
Fernando
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