David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64850
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Baja 709-1: DAY 1 and Day 2: Border Crossing, Jardines, El Rosario, Ignacio Springs
Baja 709
Elizabeth and I spent 8 days in Baja on our first anniversary traveling to new and old Baja places from July 18 to July 25, 2009.
The new places included Ignacio Springs Bed & Breakfast, Playa Frambes Lighthouse Resort, and south of Bahia Concepcion which was all new to
Elizabeth.
Since we enjoy the historic sites of Baja California, we went to mission-era sites at Londo, Ligui, Loreto, San Javier, Magdalena, San Borja and Santo
Tomas.
Being our anniversary and summer vacation we wanted more relaxation time and only camped out one night. The resorts and motels we stayed at were all
very nice and some just plain awesome. The furthest south we went was Ensenada Blanca, near Ligui on Highway One.
MAP-1 (Days 1 & 2):
The 8-day trip logged 1,839 miles on my Toyota Tacoma, 102 gallons of gasoline (18 MPG) with zero problems, flats, or issues. Pemex was available
everywhere and the only questionable purchase was at Santa Rosalia where the pump ‘seemed’ to be off by 10%. There are now four stations in Santa
Rosalia and the ‘bad’ ones (2) are on the right (east side) and the good one is on the left near the harbor. Well, there is a new station on the left,
just north of the ‘good one’, and I thought I was at the good one! On the way north, we stopped at the correct station. In Loreto, Phil C gave us
directions to the one ‘good’ station in town (north-east part of town).
Highway One was in good condition with only some rough pavement sections, but no potholes. We had dirt detours where the highway is being widened to
four lanes just south of Maneadero for 2.5 miles and through the town of Vizcaino.
Maneadero detour photo.
There was a long paved detour along a section of new bridges between Santa Rosalia and Mulege (over Arroyo Boca de Magdalena). The new, wider Highway
One sections are 5 miles north of El Rosario and the 2 miles through town… with NO MORE TOPES (speed bumps). New wide road begins again 19 miles later
for 12 miles (Km 92 to 112). The next wide section was for a short distance along Bahia Concepcion.
DAY 1 (Saturday, July 18)
We left our home (San Diego County) at 9 am and traveled first to the Costco in Chula Vista (I-5 to Palomar exit, east to Broadway, north to Costco).
Inside is a peso exchange with the day’s rate at 13.24 pesos per dollar. We used both pesos and dollars depending on the location and later, when we
ran out of pesos.
The border INM office (immigration) was our next stop for Tourist Cards (FM-T visas) and they were US $22 each. We requested and filled in the number
of days for the maximum (180) for this and future trips in the next 6 months. The INM office is on the far right and the bank payment window a few
offices to the left. It is well signed. The only issue today was leaving the parking area. Instead of driving up to the button to get the red or green
light, we had to wait in line with others to get an inspection first and then still had to press the button after. In the past, we only had to state
that we were not there to declare anything, unlike the others. We may have been delayed close to an hour for that mess, but once we were done it was
clear sailing south! That was 11:30 am when we were on the road again.
This is the far right lane to get into to park in Secondary to pick up Tourist Cards. The closed gate opens automatically as you get close to it.
This is the far right office facing the covered parking area where INM (immigration) is located. Take your passports and pen here first. The officer
was friendly and spoke English.
These are the offices to the left of INM where the bank is located to purchase the 180 day FM-T. Signs are on the posts in front.
This is the covered parking area in front of the offices... this Saturday morning was a bit trying to exit as the young officer working alone wanted
to inspect everyone getting FM-Ts and still having us push a button for red/ green (we got green). But, we wondered what more would he do if we got
red?
The first two tolls were 26 pesos each and the third was 29 pesos. The third toll booth was heavily gaurded for inspections northbound. We took the
free road to avoid the major backup here on our trip home.
We stopped in Ensenada for 4 tacos and 2 beers (100 pesos) at the places near the harbor. We got to Maneadero (10 miles from Ensenada) at 1:53 pm and
kept on going to the San Quintin area for dinner at JARDINES BAJA, 1.3 miles west of Highway One, near Km. 2. Arrived at 4:30 pm and left at 5:30 www.hotel-jardinesbaja.com.
This was our one-year anniversary date and the Jardines was a fine place for a nice dinner. Elizabeth and I both had the steak and lobster dinner…
with 4 beers US $57 (this was our most expensive meal). The Jardines is a beautiful, new restaurant and is the third time we have had dinner there,
but this was the first time at the new building.
The El Rosario/ Baja Cactus Pemex was our first fuel stop in Mexico and we took on 50 liters for 370 pesos (13.2 gallons for US $27.95 or US
$2.12/gal). That was with the pesos we bought at Costco at 13.24:dollar. A week later we used dollars and the station gave a rate of 12.70:dollar or
US $2.21/gal (other stations this week gave only 12.00:dollar).
We had a room reserved at Baja Cactus, but the west side of town was without water because the town’s well pump was busted and we really wanted to
have water in our room, naturally. So, we went to the new Turista Motel, 2 miles beyond. We had stayed at the Turista once before when Baja Cactus was
full. Once again, we had an excellent night’s sleep and the rate for a king bed was only 300 pesos (US 22.66 with Costco pesos).
Turista Motel mattress label.
Across Highway One from the Turista Motel is Baja’s Best Restaurant (and bar) where Ed Lusk made us an awesome tequila sunrise with fresh squeezed
orange juice!
Tomorrow, breakfast at Ed Lusk’s Baja’s Best Restaurant and on to San Ignacio for a night in a ‘yurt’!
Much more to come... to be continued!
[Edited on 8-1-2009 by David K]
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805gregg
Super Nomad
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Registered: 5-21-2006
Location: Ojai, Ca
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Keep going David.
[Edited on 7-27-2009 by 805gregg]
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Crusoe
Senior Nomad
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Thanx David....Looks like you guys had alot of fun!! ++C++
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64850
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Baja 709 (DAY 2)
DAY 2 (Sunday July 19)
We had a nice breakfast at Baja’s Best across the highway from the Turista Motel. Elizabeth had hot cakes and eggs and I had chorizo breakfast
burritos with great coffee. Total cost was 200 pesos, incl. Tip (US $15.11).
We were southbound at 10:23 am into boojum country! Some kilometer marker notes: Punta San Carlos & Las Pintas access road between Km. 80-81. New,
wide highway runs from Km. 92 to 112. The Agua Dulce historic spring access road is between Km. 160-161. Rock art cave access at Km. 176. Cataviña at
Km. 179. and passed through Cataviña at 11:40 am.
Villa Jesus Maria was our gas stop today (200 miles from El Rosario Pemex) at 1:47 pm. 43.8 liters, 325 pesos… With some running around in El Rosario
the night before, I had 209 miles on the odometer using 11.6 gallons or 18 MPG (US $2.12/ gal). After gassing up the Tacoma, we stopped for some beer
at a local market and got a six-pack of Sol for 67 pesos… and some ice included.
The next stop was at the Eagle Monument (28º Parallel of latitude/ state border) where a kilometer south is check of your FM-T papers a drive-over
insect spray of the bottom of your vehicle, for 20 pesos. Northbound, we were waved through with no look at our FM-Ts. The time changes to Mountain
Time and we lose an hour. 2 miles south is the entrance road to Guerrero Negro and Highway One curves to the southeast.
We passed a highway patrol cruiser and remembered this is a well-patrolled section and avoid the temptation on this long, straight highway of going
much over the posted 80 KPH (50 MPH) speed limit. The Guillermo Prieto/ Mision Santa Gertrudis/ Punta San Francisquito access road is between Km.
153-154 and we pass it at 4:19 Mountain Time.
We stop for beer-break in the Vizcaino Desert (102º).
Vizcaino has a highway-widening project underway so, no pavement for a mile through town.
We arrive at San Ignacio at 5:10 pm (mountain) and head straight for Ignacio Springs Bed & Breakfast where Mongolian style yurts (canvas rooms)
along a tropical river in the Baja desert, offer relaxing accommodations.
Pretty Cool, huh?
We meet Gary and Terry and get settled in before dinner (optional by reservation) is served at 7:30. San Diego area guest Armando and his travel
companions had gone fishing earlier on Laguna San Ignacio and that provided a fresh fish fry with veggies and dessert. Before dinner, we take a swim
in the San Ignacio river... very romantic and beautiful!
When a guest at dinner found out I was 'David K' on Baja Nomad, he had to show me his vehicle and stickers! Good to meet you Howard! His Toyota has
'BAJA FX' for Baja Fix to tell the world where he goes for fun!
http://www.ignaciosprings.com . Evaporative coolers cool the yurts. They are canvas over a wood frame and in our yurt with the added-on bathroom
there are some openings to the outside that provided us with some ‘wildlife experiences’ before we retired for the night. Nothing that a little bug
spray couldn’t handle, which we had in our camp box.
Tomorrow, an excellent Canadian-style breakfast and on to the Sea of Cortez!
To be continued…
[Edited on 7-27-2009 by David K]
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64850
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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More Ignacio Springs Yurts
2 of the larger yurts were vacant and we had a look...
As you can tell, they each have a theme... our's was Africa and the bigger one is the Great Wall of China, etc.
Do check out Terry & Gary's web site and enjoy your stay at Ignacio Springs: http://ignaciosprings.com
[Edited on 7-27-2009 by David K]
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64850
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Please let me know if anyone is not able to view all the photos...
Slower Internet connections (like dial-up and WebTV) may not easily view too many photos in a single thread. I can break up the reports to limited
number of photos in each post/ thread. There are about 30 photos in this thread.
Part 3: Bob & Susan's Playa Frambes Resort and Mulege is next!
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Ken Cooke
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8946
Registered: 2-9-2004
Location: Riverside, CA
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Mood: Pole Line Road postponed due to injury
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| Quote: | Originally posted by David K
Please let me know if anyone is not able to view all the photos...
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They're coming through...loud and clear, David! 
Great photos. Keep up the great work!
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Bajahowodd
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9274
Registered: 12-15-2008
Location: Disneyland Adjacent and anywhere in Baja
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Keep 'em coming David. I'm reliving my recent trip through your photos. Got a couple of questions. Having dinner at Jardines. Didn't you consider
staying there? It's only like 30-40 minutes further to El Rosario, so it wouldn't hae added much on to your next day's travel. Second, did they
actually ask to see your papers at the state line heading South? We just got asked for ten pesos, nothing more. Nothing like consistency, eh?
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Bob H
Elite Nomad
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Registered: 8-19-2003
Location: San Diego
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Looks like you two had a great time so far. Looking forward to the remainder of your wonderful report. I am happy they are fixing the road at the
Vizcaino turnoff. It was so full of potholes!
Your lobster and steak dinner was a great deal.
While in El Rosario I am surprised you didn't eat at Primeros place.
Love the yert photos.
Bob H
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pwrslider
Newbie
Posts: 16
Registered: 6-25-2009
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Now thats a TRIP REPORT!!! Love it! In fact, I'm going to print it out...we leave for Cabo on the 30th.
Couple of quick questions:
1. If I need FM-T's at the border ( i might be able to get em before I leave here...) what time does the office/bank open in the morning...I had heard
8am??
2. My plan is to stop for the first night at GN...I noticed you stopped a bit sooner...is the border to GN do-able?
again...love this report!
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64850
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Bajahowodd
Keep 'em coming David. I'm reliving my recent trip through your photos. Got a couple of questions. Having dinner at Jardines. Didn't you consider
staying there? It's only like 30-40 minutes further to El Rosario, so it wouldn't hae added much on to your next day's travel. Second, did they
actually ask to see your papers at the state line heading South? We just got asked for ten pesos, nothing more. Nothing like consistency, eh?
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Thanks for the kind words! Now for some answers:
a) We had reservations at Baja Cactus, the owner (Antonio) is a friend and a Nomad ('BajaCactus')... so he gets first dibs on our stay in the region.
Because there was no water in most of El Rosario... with no fix happening soon, we stayed at the Turista Motel which had water... and ate across the
street at Ed's, for breakfast.
b) When we pulled to a stop one kilometer south of the Eagle Monument TWO people walked up to the window... the Migra guy and the bug spray guy... The
Migra guy wanted to look at our paid FM-Ts and the bug spray guy requested TWENTY pesos... as we drove over the sprays... only the ones on the left
worked... lol... the right side were clogged.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64850
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Bob H
Looks like you two had a great time so far. Looking forward to the remainder of your wonderful report. I am happy they are fixing the road at the
Vizcaino turnoff. It was so full of potholes!
Your lobster and steak dinner was a great deal.
While in El Rosario I am surprised you didn't eat at Primeros place.
Love the yert photos.
Bob H |
Thanks Bob...
Primo's (Bocana Beach Restaurant) appeared closed... it was dark at night and didn't have any cars in front during the day.
Primo is a nice guy... the food has been variable. Back in 2005 for the festival, it sure was good for breakfast and dinner. Anyway, Ed's is great and
now Mama Espinoza's is, too (wait to you read about and see the changes there when I post Day 8). So, Ed's is at Turista and Mama's is at Baja
Cactus... making both motels just a few steps from good food.
Photo of Bob H's dinner at Primo's, July, 2005:
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64850
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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| Quote: | Originally posted by pwrslider
Now thats a TRIP REPORT!!! Love it! In fact, I'm going to print it out...we leave for Cabo on the 30th.
Couple of quick questions:
1. If I need FM-T's at the border ( i might be able to get em before I leave here...) what time does the office/bank open in the morning...I had heard
8am??
2. My plan is to stop for the first night at GN...I noticed you stopped a bit sooner...is the border to GN do-able?
again...love this report! |
Thank you very much! Some answers for you... and do stay tuned for the other 6 trip days of reports and photos!
a) The bank teller for payments for FM-Ts is open the same hours as the INM (migra) office... which at Tijuana is 24/7. If the doors/ windows look
closed, walk through the hall to the pedestrian entrance walkway on the other side of the offices where they are open all the time. If you cross into
Mexico during daytime (as recommended) you should have no problem finding the people there.
b) We stopped at El Rosario becaue we like the place and the people there... it is 6-7 driving hours from our home, and on Baja roads that is a long
day. Plus, we are into the journey and not just the destination... so NO HURRY/ NO WORRY. Guerrero Negro is 222 miles from El Rosario (4 hours) and
that is a 10-11 hour drive from our home... no fun.
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Bajahowodd
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9274
Registered: 12-15-2008
Location: Disneyland Adjacent and anywhere in Baja
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I concur with David on the length of travel making GN the first stop. I have to admit that I've made the Cabo to border trip with a single overnight
in San Ignacio. But I was a zombie when I got home. Unless you are strapped for time, there's just so many enjoyable places to stay and to eat, that
it almost makes more sense to fly and rent a vehicle, if you're going to do it in two days. Keep following for more of David's report. Obviously, many
of us have our own personal favorites when it comes to where to stay and where to eat. Some of us agree more on some than others. But this thread
isn't about that. Just wanted to suggest you slow it down and enjoy.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64850
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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This trip report continues with DAY 3 (Playa Frambes, Mulege), here: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=40372
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dtutko1
Nomad
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Registered: 8-26-2009
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David K or any knowledgable person
When you get pesos at the chula vista costco, can you use an atm card or do you need dollars?
Dorado Don
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64850
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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It is like a bank teller, so you hand her dollars and she gives you pesos. There is an ATM inside Costco (typically).
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Ken Cooke
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8946
Registered: 2-9-2004
Location: Riverside, CA
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Mood: Pole Line Road postponed due to injury
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How much did you pay this guy to place your sticker on his new 4x4?
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64850
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Not a penny, or the same amount I paid you to wear a 'got baja?' hat   ... We met there that day for the first time. He picked it up some years earlier at
Baja Cactus Motel, where some were left in the lobby.
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Ken Cooke
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8946
Registered: 2-9-2004
Location: Riverside, CA
Member Is Offline
Mood: Pole Line Road postponed due to injury
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| Quote: | Originally posted by David K
Not a penny, or the same amount I paid you to wear a 'got baja?' hat ... We met there that day for the first time. He picked it up some years earlier at
Baja Cactus Motel, where some were left in the lobby. |
I'm just giving you a hard time, David.
Checking to see that you are not watching prime-time news
or something.
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