Pompano
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Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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SAN IGNACIO
The Quest:
Our trip report resumes ..just north of San Ignacio on the Baja Road.
"Co-pilot! Look up ahead there at the army checkpoint. Those are the folks we met back up the Road the other day."
"Hey, amigos, there you are! How's your trip going? We kind of lost touch when we took that little detour to Asuncion. Oh, yeah? Whales at
Scammons, huh? Sounds great. Us? Well, now we're back driving south on the Baja Road into uncharted territory...'Kicking Back
country'
....and trying to find The Lost Mission of Margaritaville.
Wanna tag along?
If you're a little like me...and even though you've escaped from southern California, you still haven't quite lost that claustraphobic feeling.
But..by the time you get this far south....you are slowly beginning to think that maybe, just maybe.. that fabled place does exist after all.
Watching the uncrowded countryside slide by, and remembering last night's fun stop at Malarrimo's, you are starting to grin...There is Hope!
You know that feeling, right?
Well, put your watch in the console, throw away that damn itinerary...and come along with us.
We are coming up on San Ignacio.
Take Note: The country of Kicking Back lies just beyond, with Margaritaville it's capital.
Some facts about San Ignacio. This place has long been one of my favorite places to get off the long drive down the peninsula. A true oasis in the
desert with a cool relaxing lake and pleasant town square. A place to unwind and slowly become more ...'Baja'...
San Ignacio is a palm oasis town, located between Guerrero Negro and Santa Rosalía. San Ignacio is located
approximately 530 miles from the San Diego/Tijuana border crossing, a 10-12 hour drive.
The town has a population of about 4,000 and grew at the site of the Cochimí settlement of Kadakaamán and the Jesuit Mission San
Ignacio Kadakaaman founded in 1728 by Juan Bautista Luyando.
the town has a Pemex with gas & diesel
At San Ignacio, Baja California's arid Central Desert terrain gives way to a large grove of lush green date palms. A large spring-fed pond and small
river on the outskirts of town feeds into the central plaza and village next to the eighteenth-century Jesuit mission. San Ignacio serves as the
gateway to San Ignacio Lagoon, the winter time sanctuary of the Pacific Gray Whale.
The locale has certain basaltic soils, providing clues as to the volcanic history of this region. There are a variety of desert flora and
fauna in the vicinity of San Ignacio, including lots of Elephant trees.
On the way into the center of town, you'll pass over an underground river that bubbles into a quiet lagoon bordered with red grass and shaded
by huge date palm trees. If you're driving the peninsula, this true desert oasis is a refreshing stopover.
The lagoon, surrounding orchards, the dates palms (reportedly first imported here in Baja) and a scenic walkway to town make San Ignacio an ideal
refuge for the soul. The untouched beauty of this oasis and its surrounding areas speak for themselves. In the winter, the placid waters turn into a
river running from twelve to eighteen miles. In the summertime, the river becomes a spring with countless fresh water pools, where species such as the
Israel Carp, Fresh Water Turtle and Bullfrog thrive. I recall a few of us from Punta Chivato used to go frog-gigging here back in the 80's. Frog
legs...mmm..uhh...tastes just like..well, like frog legs. Chicken's much better. 
The road continues until it reaches a small plaza decorated by leafy Indian trees. The majestic church of San Ignacio de Loyola rises at the
front of this plaza. Narrow little streets and antique houses converge at this spot.
The place that the Cochimes call Kadacaaman (red grass river) was "discovered" on November 19, 1716 by the Jesuit Father Francisco Maria
Piccolo. The founding father of the mission, begun on January 20, 1778, was the Mexican Jesuit Juan Bautista Luyando, who devoted much
of his life to the mission and its people.
Jesuit Fernando Consag was responsible for much of the construction of the church, utilizing 4 feet wide blocks of volcanic rock which
originated from the nearby volcanoes, Las Tres Virgenes. Construction was completed in 1786. Due to its solid walls, the building has barely
changed over the years and is one of the most beautiful missions in the Baja California peninsula. In addition to the magnificent facade with it's
decorated, carved stone, the building’s interior consists of a great alter of carved wood and gold finish, seven oil paintings and a statue of San
Ignacio de Loyola. These are truly jewels of religious art of the XVII century. A visit to the church is one of the highlights of San Ignacio.
San Ignacio provides the ecotourist with excellent options. San Ignacio is the gateway to the cave paintings area in the Sierra
of San Francisco, distinguished by UNESCO as a Patrimony of Humanity. To visit caves such as La Pintada & El Ratón, it is
necessary to contact the INAH, next to the mission, where you can learn the rules and regulations and obtain the proper permits. No one is allowed to
visit these pristine sites without a registered guide. INAH will provide the guides for a fee.
San Ignacio offers another attraction; San Ignacio Lagoon, one of the shelters of the grey whale. Near the lagoon you'll
find places for sport fishing, surfing and scuba diving. Guided tours are strongly recommended. Information should be provided at hotel desks.
The Festival of San Ignacio Loyalo takes place during the last week of July, as does the annual date harvest. The plaza fills with light,
music and fun. In this festive atmosphere, you can enjoy horseraces, c-ckfights, dances, the fair and fireworks in one of Baja's prettiest plazas.
San Ignacio has hotels, restaurants, RV parks, a paved runway, a bus depot, and many other services waiting for the tourist. But most of all, San
Ignacio gives you hope that...
.....Margartiaville does exist in the Land of Kicking Back.
Would you care to continue your trip with us? Okay...the Baja Road lies ahead.
"We're burning daylight, Pilgrim."
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Acuity
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Location: Comox, BC, and Todos Santos
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Yet another wonderful illustrated story. Pompano - you're a gem on this forum!
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TMW
Select Nomad
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Location: Bakersfield, CA
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Thank you for the wonderful pictures and stories. What a great trip to be on.
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DENNIS
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Location: Punta Banda
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I'm wishing your trip was endless, Roger. Thanks again...and again.....
By the way...I recall when you had to replace your camera. What did you decide on?
[Edited on 12-20-2009 by DENNIS]
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David K
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Great as usual Roger! Just one typo to correct: "The founding father of the mission, begun on January 20, 1778... "
That should be 1728...
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
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Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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| Quote: | Originally posted by DENNIS
I'm wishing your trip was endless, Roger. Thanks again...and again.....
By the way...I recall when you had to replace your camera. What did you decide on?
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Hi Dennis, I picked a Nikon D40 and some lenses to run around with and am glad I did. It corrects a lot of my errors if left on 'auto'. 
| Quote: | Originally posted by David K
Great as usual Roger! Just one typo to correct: "The founding father of the mission, begun on January 20, 1778... "
That should be 1728... |
Gracias David, but I never make mistakes.
This is a completely different mission built in 1778 by sub-contracted Polynesian Frog worshippers who got tossed off a coconut log raft manned by
Franciscan tong members from Hong Kong.
ELINVESTI8....Good God..ugh.
Glad I still have the 'black pill'. Looks like time to use it.
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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DENNIS
Platinum Nomad
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Location: Punta Banda
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Pompano
Hi Dennis, I picked a Nikon D40 and some lenses to run around with and am glad I did. It corrects a lot of my errors if left on 'auto'.
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Nice camera, Roger. I'm in the process of buying a high end Canon EOS 5D. I have and have forever loved my Canon film 35s and still have a half
dozen good FD lenses for them. For only twenty bucks, I was able to buy an adaptor and will be able to use those lenses on the new gun. I'll use them
till I get to old and tired to do my own focusing and then, I'll get some AF lenses.
Anyway, between you and your Nikon, your shots are coming out great. Thanks.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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| Quote: | Originally posted by DENNIS
| Quote: | Originally posted by Pompano
Hi Dennis, I picked a Nikon D40 and some lenses to run around with and am glad I did. It corrects a lot of my errors if left on 'auto'.
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Nice camera, Roger. I'm in the process of buying a high end Canon EOS 5D. I have and have forever loved my Canon film 35s and still have a half
dozen good FD lenses for them. ....... |
Ah, those great Canon AE-1 programs. My brother-in-law was a professional photographer/journalist and often said that was the meat and potatoes
camera for any pro to carry along. I had mine for many, many years. In fact almost all my Baja photos from 1975 to 2000 were taken with that old
AE-1.
Until that fateful day when I left it on it's tripod at a rest area and drove 50 miles before the 'stupid' wore off. Of course it was long gone and I
miss it still. I bought another good used, but it was never the same as my original love.
This D40 is damn nice, though..and I am learning more about it every day. I'm getting creative. If I live long enough I'll send you a D40 photo of a
charging tiger taken from my howdah.
Here's a pic of my old AE-1..and thanks for bringing back memories of a great camera.
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Bajahowodd
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9274
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Another great travelogue, Roger. Was wondering. When at the checkpoint outside San Ignacio- it looked deserted. In my experience, that has been like
the second busiest, behind the Meneadero one. it's the only one I can ever recall being searched S/B. Was it just a matter of the point from which you
took that shot? Time of day? Day of the week? Just doesn't look like what I've encountered there a number of times.
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taxcutter
Junior Nomad
Posts: 30
Registered: 8-9-2005
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Great travelogue and photos. I especially like the San Ignacio Lagoon photo.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Mood: Optimistic
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Bajahowodd
Another great travelogue, Roger. Was wondering. When at the checkpoint outside San Ignacio- it looked deserted. In my experience, that has been like
the second busiest, behind the Meneadero one. it's the only one I can ever recall being searched S/B. Was it just a matter of the point from which you
took that shot? Time of day? Day of the week? Just doesn't look like what I've encountered there a number of times. |
Bajahowodd....Sorry about the lateness of my response to your question.
It's been my experience also to find this station crowded...arbarrotado. I'm sure that there were many vehicles just off-camera at the moment I took
that photo.
The photo's date and time was Nov. 3rd, 2009 about 2 pm. Hey, maybe it was siesta time...
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Gaucho
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Location: Laguna Beach/East Cape
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Great pics Pompano, thank you. Do you have any idea what the weather is like in San Ignacio during "whale season"? Avg. temps in February?
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Mood: Optimistic
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Gaucho
Great pics Pompano, thank you. Do you have any idea what the weather is like in San Ignacio during "whale season"? Avg. temps in February?
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Hola Gaucho,
Every time I have been in San Ignacio during January/February it has been 'coolish' and sometimes a bit windy...I would think 68F highs to mid-40's
low...with some extreme cold thrown in during the Loco month of February.
Check with your tour company for whale watching weather updates for your itinerary. Have fun with those calves and don't forget to take your camera
in the boat.
Buena suerte.
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Bajahowodd
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Location: Disneyland Adjacent and anywhere in Baja
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Alot depends on whether you are planning to overnight at the lagoon, or stay in town and just do a day trip. It can be fairly chilly and damp,
overnight at the lagoon. Staying in town, while it may cool off, there's not the dampness. You'll need to have some form of outerwear if you're going
down there in winter. On the other hand, we've been out on the water on a sunny day and a jacket felt a little too warm. Layer.
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Udo
Elite Nomad
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Location: Black Hills, SD/Ensenada/San Felipe
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Roger
You're worth the price of admission into Nomads!
Udo
Youth is wasted on the young!
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Gaucho
Nomad
Posts: 405
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Location: Laguna Beach/East Cape
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Mood: Bohemia por favor...
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Pompano
| Quote: | Originally posted by Gaucho
Great pics Pompano, thank you. Do you have any idea what the weather is like in San Ignacio during "whale season"? Avg. temps in February?
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Hola Gaucho,
Every time I have been in San Ignacio during January/February it has been 'coolish' and sometimes a bit windy...I would think 68F highs to mid-40's
low...with some extreme cold thrown in during the Loco month of February.
Check with your tour company for whale watching weather updates for your itinerary. Have fun with those calves and don't forget to take your camera
in the boat.
Buena suerte. |
Thanks for the info. We'll try and get a Yurt at the Ignacio Springs Hotel and do a day trip out to see the whales. I'll definately have my camera.
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Mexicorn
Senior Nomad
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Registered: 9-15-2009
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YOU GUYS ARE SO GREAT!!!!!
LOVE THE PICTURES POMPANO SEND MORE!!!!!
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