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Agavedaze
Junior Nomad
Posts: 26
Registered: 3-14-2010
Location: Tucson, Arizona
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Santa Rosalia Ferry
Hola to anyone reading. My husband and I have been driving and camping on the Baja for a number of years. We have been lurking around the Baja Nomad
site for a long time, and have now finally decided to register and make a post about our last trip. Specifically, we have been receiving a lot of
questions about the Santa Rosalia to Guaymas ferry.
The Santa Rosalia ferry has both benefits and challenges that should be shared. My husband and I just returned from a month-long trip on the Baja.
This trip began in mid-February traveling by ferry from Guaymas, Sonora to Santa Rosalia, BCS. The ferry brought us back from Santa Rosalia to
Guaymas last Sunday - Monday.
First, we found the current ferry schedule of day time and night time crossings posted on their web site to be accurate. Their fee schedule is also
accurate. Their web address is www.ferrysantarosalia.com. We made reservations by calling the Guaymas office. This number is 011-52-622-222-0204 (when calling from the U.S.).
Most of the time this discussion was in Spanish with either Erica or Julio. Although, Diego, a retired merchant seaman who speaks a fair amount of
English, will also answer the phone. We succeeded in speaking to someone on the phone those days the ferry is scheduled to leave. At the Guaymas
office, they did not want to accept reservations more than a week or two in advance. Online reservations did not work for us.
It was our experience that we were able to get on the return ferry trip from Santa Rosalia without making reservations. We showed up at the terminal
and just bought tickets. The woman who sold us tickets confirmed that when calling to make reservations, call in the morning, or a few hours before
the ferry leaves, on those days it is scheduled to depart Santa Rosalia. The number they give on their web site for the Santa Rosalia office is
011-52-615-152-2200 (when calling from the U.S.).
The ferry's schedule is subject to change as a consequence of weather and sea conditions. This ferry is significantly smaller than the old Benito
Juarez ferry and cannot handle a lot of turbulence. At the beginning of our trip we had to wait one day past our departure date to board the ferry
because of large waves in the middle of the trip. Coming back from Santa Rosalia, we arrived in Guaymas four and a half hours after our 7:00 AM
estimated time of arrival, again because of rough seas. Be flexible and don't get too attached to your plans if you plan this ferry into your trip.
Actually, that's said about most things down there.
Since the ferry is a smaller boat, it is very quiet and clean. The bathrooms are very clean. I think one can eat off the floor in the vehicle hold.
There were only four vehicles on the ferry on our first trip across. We figured this small passenger and vehicle count is due as much to the cost of
the ferry as the size of the boat. On the return trip, they fit a tractor-trailer rig into the vehicle hold so there is no trouble with carrying
large vehicles (large RVs) if you have enough pesos. Getting a vehicle on board is a lot easier than it used to be. Just give them the year, make
and model, and they have a database of weight and length for reference. There is no more weighing or measuring vehicles.
There is a salon, a first class salon, and shared cabins, or camarotes compartidos. The camarotes are small, with two or four bunks and a sink. If
you need four bunks, or a port hole for fresh air, ask for camarote number eight. We stayed in this camarote for our night trip out of Guaymas. It
is the most quiet, closest to the bathrooms, and is the farthest from the kitchen. On the way back from Santa Rosalia, we stayed in camarote number
three. This is actually in the crew quarters and down the hall from the kitchen. When the boat is pitching and rolling on the big water, pots and
pans tend to fall on the floor. As a final note on the camarotes, bring your bedding with you. There are pillows on the bunks, but nothing else.
Bring your blankets and pillows, or your sleeping bags, if you want them.
There is a little kitchen on board. For the night crossings, they serve mostly snack items in the evening when the ferry first takes off, and
breakfast burritos and Nescafe in the morning. I don't remember if they have bottled water on board. We brought our own for drinking and for
brushing teeth.
We did not ask the captain to return to our vehicle during the crossing. We were told by someone else that the captain will allow you to go back into
the vehicle hold if necessary. Another nice benefit to having a smaller boat with less passengers is the captain makes your experience more personal.
He will take the time to visit with you either on land before getting on, or while on the boat.
Captain Jesus Guillermo Bejarano Villalvazo (Captain Berjarano) made our experience very enjoyable. He has a kind manner and face, and will make the
effort to talk to you (mostly in Spanish, but peppered with some English). We were impressed with his knowledge and passion for the sea and the sea
life. He also captains a recreational touring boat out of Guaymas and San Carlos.
Of course the main reason why we drive to Guaymas and catch the ferry to the Baja is because we live in Tucson, AZ. However, for those of you who
don't know, no vehicle permit is required to drive in northern Sonora. Everything north of Guaymas-Empalme is free-zone just like the Baja. If you
plan to travel south from Guaymas toward Ciudad Obregon, a vehicle permit is required.
This is the best information we have to date (February-March 2010). As we all know, things change and I don't know what the "shelf life" of this post
will actually be. Hopefully, this will be helpful to someone. I will post photographs of the ferry as soon as I figure out how to do it.
Buen Viaje
The "Santa Rosalia" at the terminal in Guaymas
Smaller vehicle hold than the "Benito Juarez"
Just four vehicles were placed on board for the trip to Baja, and only five on the way back.
Camarote 8 is isolated, quiet, close to the bathrooms, and has four bunks. Camarote 3 is in the lower decks of the ferry, has two bunks, and fun
water sloshing and gurgling noises!
Four bunks inside number 8. This is it. Bring whatever makes you comfortable. The blankets are mine.
Dawn in Santa Rosalia. What I like most about the night ferry (except for the Nescafe!)
Arriving in the bay outside of Guaymas
Guaymas ferry terminal
[Edited on 3-16-2010 by Agavedaze]
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Bajahowodd
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9274
Registered: 12-15-2008
Location: Disneyland Adjacent and anywhere in Baja
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Thank you for this valuable info, and welcome aboard! Really look forward to you posting pix.
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DianaT
Select Nomad
Posts: 10020
Registered: 12-17-2004
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Thanks for all the information. It sure sounds a lot nicer that the old ferry!
Dogs, do you know if they allow and how they handle dogs. A couple of years ago we know that they would put dogs in tiny cages---not good and that
any refrigerator trucks ran all night with all the fumes.
That was on the bigger ferry that goes into La Paz, but you did mention they put a semi on this one??
Thanks.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64490
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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What a great report... welcome to Nomad!
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Hook
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9006
Registered: 3-13-2004
Location: Sonora
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Mood: Inquisitive
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I have to disagree with the contention that the pricing is accurate on the website. I took the same ferry in Dec. 09 and found that there are round
trip discounts that are not mentioned on the website and that they were substantial. Do a search and you will see the pricing I found.
Even the posted prices on the outside of the ticket office in Guaymas dont reflect all the discounts possible by booking round trip. And you can get
an open ended ticket for the return trip.
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Agavedaze
Junior Nomad
Posts: 26
Registered: 3-14-2010
Location: Tucson, Arizona
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First, thank you for the warm welcome, and sorry I took so long with the photos. Second, yes, a semi was placed on board. However, it doesn't appear
that a lot of commercial vehicles use this ferry. We are speculating that the cost, size, and schedule reliability may be problematic for heavy
commerical use. Also, we have no information (official or anecdotal) about dogs or other animals on the ferry. Finally, it is certainly worth the
effort to pursue rate discounts. The ferry's website may not be inclusive of all rates they will honor, or consistent with how it's posted elsewhere,
afterall it is Mexico. However, we found the fee schedule as it is currently posted on the website is what we were in fact charged.
Again, thanks for the welcome and looking forward to further correspondence and meetings!
Agavedaze
[Edited on 3-15-2010 by Agavedaze]
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DianaT
Select Nomad
Posts: 10020
Registered: 12-17-2004
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Thanks for adding the pix---looks quite nice. Next time we are down maybe will will run down to Santa Rosalia and check on the Dog policy.
Again, thanks---
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knuckles
Nomad
Posts: 140
Registered: 9-15-2009
Location: I am never sure anymore :)
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Really good post. I have always wanted to make this trip. How long is the journey when its on time?
Thanks!
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shari
Select Nomad
Posts: 13033
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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thanks so much for this most informative post and joining Nomads! I really like your writing style...your use of "we found...." was refreshing...and
how you detailed your experience...very usefull and well presented information. That sure looks like a BC (canada) ferry! great pics too
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Agavedaze
Junior Nomad
Posts: 26
Registered: 3-14-2010
Location: Tucson, Arizona
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In response to the question about the estimated time it takes to cross the Sea of Cortez on this ferry when it is on time........anywhere from 7 to 9
hours. The day and night ferry runs should theoretically be about the same. However, the captain said that he will slow the ferry for a couple of
reasons, rough seas or so that passengers on the night ferry are dropped off on either end in the day light. For this reason, the night runs could be
a little longer than the day runs under the same conditions. A fellow traveller who rides the ferry a lot said the fastest day run he had ever had
only took 6 hours.
For us this time, the night trip to the Baja was 10 hours in moderate seas. The night trip back to Guaymas was 13.5 hours on really rough water.
The boarding timeline and boarding protocols are about the same as they have always been. Arrive at the terminal parking lot a couple hours before
departure time to take care of tickets, military inspections, and loading. After being dropped off, plan at least another half hour for more of the
same military inspections (in case of "nefarious activity" in the middle of the Sea of Cortez). With fewer passengers and vehicles involved, the
protocols are less intense or stressful than they used to be with the larger Benito Juarez.
[Edited on 3-15-2010 by Agavedaze]
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shari
Select Nomad
Posts: 13033
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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do they still get the dogs to sniff the bags??
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Hook
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9006
Registered: 3-13-2004
Location: Sonora
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Mood: Inquisitive
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| Quote: | Originally posted by shari
do they still get the dogs to sniff the bags?? |
They did in Dec. 09. The vehicles, too.
[Edited on 3-15-2010 by Hook]
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Agavedaze
Junior Nomad
Posts: 26
Registered: 3-14-2010
Location: Tucson, Arizona
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Hola Shari,
David and I met you last year in Asuncion. We camped out at your place for a few days. I want to add a little more ferry information that will
segway into a new thread where you may be able to help.
I can't say enough good things about Captain Bejarano. He is like no other ferry captain, boat captain, or fishing guide I have ever met. He is very
personable and really cares about marine wildlife. After spending all night piloting the ferry across the Sea of Cortez, bringing it into Santa
Rosalia, and preparing to unload vehicles, he took the time to track down David and I. He learned that we had a camera, so after finding us, he led
us up to the pilot house where we could get a good view of a sea lion with fishing net digging into its neck. He said that he had been watching this
sea lion slowly die, and he said that after repeated talks with the Navy, they would not provide assistance. He insisted that we take photographs of
this poor sea lion and contact Mexican and American organizations to leverage action on the part of the Mexican Government to work more aggressively
on protecting sea animals from the effects of net fishing.
We were shocked and elated that the ferry captain would go to all this trouble. Then, all we could think of is to talk to you (Shari) about
suggestions on who to contact in Mexico. Clearly, this is another thread that we can take up elsewhere. For now, Captain Bejarano is very "Captain
Sully" in both attitude and appearance.
Thanks, Sharon (aka Agavedaze)
[Edited on 3-15-2010 by Agavedaze]
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bacquito
Super Nomad
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Thanks for the report and comments.
bacquito
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Traveler
Newbie
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Registered: 3-15-2010
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Great report!
Perchance, does anyone remember the beautiful sea lion in the harbor in Ensenada with the same problem? I saw it in March of 2003.
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shari
Select Nomad
Posts: 13033
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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First of all, I would contact the dept. of tourism and write a letter about how great this captain is...maybe even a copy to the ferry system...it is
so nice to receive a letter of recommendation or positive feedback. If you would care to write this littly ditty up, that would be a neat story for a
newspaper too....something positive happening in baja. we could get it translated and send it to the local paper too.
I'm not sure how a photo of a sealion trapped in a net would help the cause...maybe...perhaps flyfishingpam might have an idea on who one could send
it to????
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ArvadaGeorge
Nomad
Posts: 358
Registered: 9-2-2003
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How much did it cost?
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Agavedaze
Junior Nomad
Posts: 26
Registered: 3-14-2010
Location: Tucson, Arizona
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The one way cost for two adults in a camarote and one vehicle less than 17'8" was $4380 pesos, $337 USD at the current exchange rate. It's a little
spendy. If you plan ahead and buy round trip tickets, they charge less. We thought we would drive out, but changed our minds and paid this higher
amount both ways. This was not our best planning moment. However, since we were heading back to Tucson, this saved us a lot of fuel and two days of
driving.
The full rate schedule for passengers and vehicles can be found at www.ferrysantarosalia.com. There appears to be discounts for students and INAPAM in the rate schedule. We have not researched those. Also,
Nomad "Hook" can maybe recommend some discount rates he is acquainted with.
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desertcpl
Super Nomad
Posts: 2394
Registered: 10-26-2008
Location: yuma,az
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great post
AGUVEDAZA
thanks that was great,,
I have one question,, you had mentioned that when you stayed in Camarote 8,, the beds only had pillows,, but in your photo in the upper left there was
blankets?
its not big deal as your photo and essay was really well done
ken/jane
yuma
[Edited on 3-16-2010 by desertcpl]
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Agavedaze
Junior Nomad
Posts: 26
Registered: 3-14-2010
Location: Tucson, Arizona
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Ken and Jane, Thanks for the comments about the report and the photo. Accurate reporting is important. The blankets are mine. The room really is
very modest.
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