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shari
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Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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Asuncion to Comondu...Magical Mystery Tour
WARNING; what started out to be a little trip report sort of turned into a detailed account of a most enchanting sojourn into a mystical canyon…I
wanted to do justice to this captivating area that so moved me…so crack a beer or get a coffee before you read this. Hard to believe we fit it all in
in 3 days! I'll present this in 4 parts...first part is to San Juanico.
Part 1
Juan and I decided to take a few days off for a little sojourn up into the sierra for some R&R. First, we wanted to check up on Mike & Don Kay
who had headed towards San Ignacio Lagoon. We found him there in the first camp after he’d had a difficult day keeping Don Kay on his feet. As usual,
they are a bit hit with the kids.
After a short visit to drop off some supplies and to chat with some of Juan’s old amigos, we set out on the coast road through the salt flats towards
San Juanico.
I highly recommend NOT taking this long, poor road. The flats aren’t too bad but the road from El Batequi, Cadeje and then down to San Juanico was
terrible…very very long, rough and rocky.
We arrived in San Juanico at sunset. The town beach is beautiful but the place wasn’t at all like I’d imagined it. For some reason, I thought it was a
kind of surf camp with some gringo houses. I was not prepared for the sight of so MANY real fancy big homes. It was kinda neat to drive around and
gawk at all the different designs, colours and unique structures. The big spreads in town had walls around them and were not photographicable...is
that a word? In the earl evening it was like a ghost town…nobody on the streets, most houses closed up, no little Mexican restaurant to eat in.
We stayed in the 7 Puntas Hotel for 300 pesos a night which was a clean, small square room with a bed, table and chair…absolutely no charm of any kind
and NO dogs. Luckily our mutt Café is good at sleeping outside the door or in the truck. There is only 12 volt power there.
We ate at a gringo style restaurant El Burro which had a really aggravatingly loud generator running all day and night that permeated the walls of the
hotel as well. It was a trendy place with lots of neat plants and nick knacks to look at and the food was fine.
I loved these chairs and bench design of cow hide...gonna see if some rancher can make me some too.
At dawn, to escape the rumble of that generator, we drove out to investigate all the points and more fancy houses. Thankfully, there were some surf
camp type places out that way too. Here are some of the surf shacks on the point.
We found a wonderful campfire burning brightly which we adopted until the sun rose and warmed the coast.
I really wanted to look up Ola Dulce and wondered which place might be hers and where Mike & Don Kay would shack up…but we were anxious to head up
into the Sierras.
TO BE CONTINUED LATER
[Edited on 1-20-2011 by shari]
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desertcpl
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very nice, i cant believe those homes
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David K
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Location: San Diego County
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Thank you!
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shari
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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PART II
Again we chose the wrong road and ended up taking another rough road up to La Purisima.....saw some neat places though like Cadeje.
La Purisima is pretty spectacular....there sure is alot of visual pollution with all the political banners splattered everywhere. We talked to locals
about pressuring politicians to clean up their mess after the election.
We drove up to San Ysidro and marveled at the water canal system and beautiful fertile valleys full of huertas.
We continued further up to Cambuchi where we saw people making petates. We stopped to enquire about them and enjoyed meeting the family. As is the
custom, the petates weren’t for sale…the ones already made were encargos…ordered by someone else. We chatted for a good while about la gripa, los
politicos, economicos, perros etc. and I commented on the colour of all their eyes and that they looked like Arce’s and they laughed and told me they
were all Arce’s!!! Well MAYBE they might be able to sell a couple petates and they sent a boy to get his uncle. After more chatting, he agreed to sell
a couple to us for 150 pesos each.We gave him 200 each and he was very very happy and promised to somehow send them up a puppy as their dog had just
got run over…so anyone going that way, please take a puppy to them!! So we loaded them aboard the Toyota…Café was happy to have some shade and lay
down inside the rolled up petates.
We asked directions and about road conditions to Comondu and they told us to make sure to buy some of their homemade wine there that was famous and we
were on our way once again.
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David K
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Oh great!!
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shari
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Posts: 13048
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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PART III Comondu area
Winding our way up a palm lined arroyo in a very narrow copper coloured canyon, we finally arrived at Comondu and drove out to the mission just as the
bells were ringing for the misa.
The whole canyon is an enchanting, mystical place of overwhelming peace & tranquility…gardens and orchards bursting with colourful fruit and
vegetables. The fair skinned, blue and green eyed people were soft spoken and gentle… reflecting their place.
That wonderful quiet was what I had been seeking and we looked around for a place to sleep…no generator there! As usual the first people we asked said
there were no cuartos for rent there….maybe in San Jose del Comondu where we had just come from. Maybe we could bunk down in this old jail house?
this village had so many interesting doors.
Then I spotted some rustic palm trunk chairs and planters outside a house and asked Juan to stop there. The carver wasn’t home but I found out that he
did sell his pieces and would be home in a bit.
I was determined to buy some of them so asked another woman about a room. Maybe La Negrita might rent one so I set out to find her. I timidly knocked
on a weathered old door calling out buenos tardes and heard movement followed by a woman peeking out her curtain. Sure enough she had a nice little
block room with a bed, table and chair and bathroom but no hot water for 150 pesos. I was ecstatic and unpacked, opened the curtain so I could take in
the view of the ruins, horses and mules, ancient casas surrounded by steep ochre canyon walls. I couldn’t have been happier. It is the yellow cuarto
behind the mules.
Dona Negrita invited me into her old adobe casa and as is the custom, we had a long chat about where we came from and who our relatives were. Being
married to an Arce certainly has it’s advantages in the sierra!
When I asked her about the local wine, she disappeared into her cocina and returned with a little glass of vino anejo de granada, aged pomogranate
wine that her son makes who was taught by his father who inherited the recipe from his ancestors. It was 3 years old and was incredibly rich. It
appears that most people make wine there from grapes and tuna cactus fruit too. We ended up doing a rancho style wine tasting tour there as everyone
we talked to made their own wine and of course we ended up buying several bottles by the time we left. The prices were all 100 pesos a bottle or 400
for a gallon.
The woman all made nice macramé things like hanging planters, tables and chairs as well as baskets. I ended up also buying a chair and a rustic lamp
of cactus wood and macramé lampshade from our hostess as well as a gallon of pomegranate wine.
While Juan took a much needed siesta, I wandered around the village at sunset absorbed in the ruins, my imagination running wild with visions of how
beautiful it must have been at one time. There was so much history here…so many stories and incredible images to photograph. I had only begun to
scratch the surface of this mysterious paradise but the feel, smell and beauty of it penetrated my soul.
I stopped to chat with some ancianos sitting on the curb and learned more about the history of the place as they admired my dog. Everyone was keen to
engage in long conversation…they had the time and rarely got a chance to talk to outsiders. Everyone seemed sad that the village was in ruins and
talked about how it was in times past and how it is now forgotten by the politicians who don’t bother to fix the roads or help restore the historical
buildings.
For dinner, we went to the lady’s home across from the little store and sat at her dining room table where she served local machaca with beans and
cheese she made….delicious! and she prepared me a special herbal tea for my gripa which calmed my cough.
The political candidates of the area had just finished eating there as well and after taking their leave, the talk turned to how the politicians
always made so many empty promises. I was fascinated by all the ruins in the pueblo and the cook’s brother told us all about how they were made and
which roof designs lasted longer. I learned a lot and went back in the morning to photograph what he had taught me. He explained how the buildings
here were so unique having 3 different arch designs which was unusual.
The palm carver lived a couple doors down from our room so I sauntered over to visit him after dinner. He told us some of the pieces were available
and showed us the beautiful chairs he was making for someone who ordered them and he hoped he would come soon to pick them up. He was happy to sell us
some planters and a chair and he ended up giving us the first piece he ever made! I promised him I would send him more customers so he’d better get
busy and make more. The planters ranged from 100-300 pesos and the chairs were 250-350 pesos depending on the size and design. He also made wine which
seemed to sell more than his furniture!
These folks have very little income and the pueblo has been largely forgotten. There is no form of communication except radio but they do have 110
electricity and inexhaustible amount of fresh water. There is a telephone in the next village in case of an emergency. They grow all their own fruit
and vegetables but are so far from market, they cant sell their goods. They comment on how sometimes 2 or 3 vehicles a week will drive past to see the
mission…some wave but rarely stop.
Upon hearing that, my mind began to form a plan to help them. If I could somehow get the word out to get people to stop, then like we did, visitors
would certainly stay the night, eat, sleep and buy their handmade goods and produce. In 24 hours, we spent over 2,000 pesos there spread among various
families. This place has moved me. I envision what could be done here…a restored historical village…revitalization could provide a healthy future for
the inhabitants who don’t want to leave their place in search of work. Many young folks who left to study couldn’t cope with the busy cities, the
noise, traffic and loneliness for lack of family so returned home to barely survive on their gardens, goats and things they make with their hands to
sell to the odd passerby.
Upon returning home, our hostess offered a nightcap of another glass of wine and we stood in the twilight discussing whatever came to mind. Vlademir
offered to show us the cave painting the next morning and finally I had to excuse myself exhausted from the day’s journey. We said our good nights and
I took a last breath of silence before entering our room…a silence so deep and penetrating…only broken by the sound of a braying burro which brought a
smile to my face. The night was totally silent…not a car passed, nor music blared, not even a dog barked…only the occasional neighing of our
neighboring horses, mules and burros…I slept deeply with a slight grin on my face…dreaming of adobe houses.
[Edited on 1-20-2011 by shari]
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shari
Select Nomad
Posts: 13048
Registered: 3-10-2006
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PART 4 Cave Paintings
The next morning, I took coffee at the restaurant casa where the beans had been freshly roasted and ground and fresh goat milk added to the best cup
of coffee I’d ever had.
We drove to where we would climb up to a large rock face which held dozens of figures. Sadly, most have deteriorated as they are exposed to the
elements but still worth seeing. My favorite was a whale with what looked like dolphins following it and a strange rotund figure with horns. I picked
a mandarin off a heavily laden tree on the trail next to the stream that was the sweetest, most succulent fruit I had ever tasted. I couldn’t resist
stealing a few more!
We said our goodbyes to our hosts with a promise to send them more guests and some suggestions on how they could increase their income by simply
painting…room for rent on the wall and making sure to offer their visitors wine, showing them their macrames and offering to guide them to the cave
paintings. I explained if they stay the night, most people will be enchanted with the place and buy something there.
On our way out of town, we stopped at a Tecate deposito and ended up in another long winded conversation about the past and future and were shown the
good that that family produces as well and tasted and bought more wine. This family was preparing for tourism and would also rent rooms and palapa
with catres which are like cots and had hot showers and would provide meals as well. They also had horses and burros for hire and told us of another
secret cave painting site.
There is so much more to these little pueblos than first meets the eye to visitors who just drive through them. San Miguel de Comondu captured my
heart and imagination and I will return to drink in the delicious silence of that enchanting canyon.
The hardest part was leaving that paradise and returning to the hustle and bustle of the highway and cities with all the noise and commotion….I long
to be back smiling at the braying of the burro.
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jorgie
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Registered: 8-25-2006
Location: on another road,again
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Mood: on the road....again,again
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DK , we need a map maybe , much thanks
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mulegemichael
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yeah, a map would be great...last year we got lost and never found the place...we got to la purisma but then the road,(i use the term loosely), just
seemed to peter out...a map please, dk.
dyslexia is never having to say you\'re yrros.
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shari
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Posts: 13048
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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the road from La Purisima to comondu pretty much no longer exists...maybe on a dirt bike or burro but we were told we had to go back down to Pancho
Villa and ask directions there cause you have to sort of backtrack around and get on another paved road to get back up the other canyon to Comondu...a
pain but well worth it in the end. I think it was paved all but maybe 10 km at the end and not bad at all...definatey off the beaten path....
if you go there, make sure to buy lots of wine er sherry or whatever that golden nectar is....I now wish I'd have bought twice as much.
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bbbait
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Location: Blythe, Ca
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Great report and very eloquently put together! Sounds very inviting, thank you!
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TMW
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Excellent, thanks.
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BornFisher
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Location: K-38 Santa Martha/Encinitas
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Thanks for that.
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boe4fun
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Location: Margaritaville
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Beautiful Shari, We visited La Purisima about 6 years ago to cast/measure and then 2 weeks later to deliver a Syme Prosthesis (for an ankle
disarticulation amputation) on a 91 year old lady. Three years later we had to remake it (with newer and stronger materials we had available then).
The original prosthesis had cracked and broken just above the ankle and the cosmetic cover on the foot would crumble into your hands. The locals had
drilled holes above and below the break and used woven rawhide strips to hold the 2 sections together. The foot was crumbling because the old gal had
been GOING DOWN TO THE RIVER TO WASH THEIR CLOTHES about twice a week, and the water rotted the rubber on the cover! Talk about one tough gal! It's
such a rare treat to visit small pueblos like these and meet the local folks.
Two dirt roads diverged in Baja and I, I took the one less graveled by......
Soy ignorante, apático y ambivalente. No lo sé y no me importa, ni modo.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64845
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Did you want maps???
2007 AAA:
Big View:
Closer:
2003 topo:
1962:
1941:
Before the Transpeninsular Highway was built, Comondu was on the main road to La Paz. In 1972, it was bi-passed when the route was changed to go
through Loreto.
1930:
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shari
Select Nomad
Posts: 13048
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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that is interesting David that Comondu used to be on the main road...makes sense now...fascinating how the new highway in 1973 opened up a new life
for many places and closed the door on other pueblos when it changed the main route.
thanks for the nice comments everyone...anyone going up can U2U me or more detailed info and names.
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Mexitron
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What a great story of your trip Shari...can't wait to visit!
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jorgie
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Location: on another road,again
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thanks David
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David K
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| Quote: | Originally posted by shari
that is interesting David that Comondu used to be on the main road...makes sense now...fascinating how the new highway in 1973 opened up a new life
for many places and closed the door on other pueblos when it changed the main route.
thanks for the nice comments everyone...anyone going up can U2U me or more detailed info and names. |
Yes, and that is how I got to see Comondu (as a kid) in 1966!
The road from Bahia Concepcion to Comondu was pretty bad... climbed up volcanic mesas and our Jeep got a case of vapor lock on the grade north of
Comondu. An old 4 cyl. Willys Jeep wagon came along and the Mexican man and son came to help.
When he opened the hood of our Wagoneer with it's V-8 and A/C he about jumped back... Anyway, he got the Jeep going and when we finally arrived in San
Jose or San Miguel Comondu we stopped where there was gathering of people... perhaps to ask for directions or purchase a beer for my dad?
They were having a little fiesta and the main dish was turtle stew, being cooked in its own shell over a fire. They invited us to stay and join
them... they don't get a lot of American tourists driving through, I expect.
These were just great experiences of Baja travel before the highway...
Shari, thanks for this trip report. It is one of Nomad's best... and these are the finest photographs I have ever seen from you... Real Good Job!!
[Edited on 1-20-2011 by David K]
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Natalie Ann
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Location: Berkeley
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Outstanding trip report and pix, shari.
You've got me truly longing for a nice back-country Baja trip.
nena
Be yourself, everyone else is already taken.
.....Oscar Wilde
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