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David K
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FREAKY FOURTH: SUNDAY 7-3-11 (part a & b)
Continued from SATURDAY: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=53921
Well, it was quite a night with the hurricane blowing over Shell Island and our camp in a bit of a shamble... The pop up sun canopy was destroyed and
our tent was ripped... Without a sunshade, we would need to leave and head for another location... We had planned to show Kristi Gonzaga Bay and El
Rosario, we would just do it a day sooner, now!
Art and Nora walked across the empty lagoon with pots of food in hand... Lumpias and Ox Tail Soup... what a treat! We had a nice visit and Art and
Nora walked out onto the sand bars looking for goodies... while we packed up to exit the island and head south.
As it was, we both re-met at Hwy. 5 at the Shell Island turnoff (Km. 26) for photos and final goodbyes... for this time.
If you recall last year... Art's first 4WD custom built motorhome did make it onto Shell Island on July 4th weekend:
We headed south on a strangely cooler, overcast day... We stopped at Colonia Delicias (Km. 35-36) for some ice and headed towards Puertecitos and
beyond...
The Enchanted Islands... strangely in fog on a summer day. We had no idea that at this very moment over 30 people were in the water or had just been
rescued from the sportfishing boat 'Erik'... capsized in the overnight storm that forced us to leave the beach that morning.
El Huerfanito Island
We took mileage notes this day and were on the new paved highway for 24.1 miles from the Puertecitos jcn.. The kilometer markers are from the San
Felipe airport road (Km. 0) to El Huerfanito and then change to bigger numbers south of El Huerfanito... as if from Mexicali. The detour off the
pavement was near Km. 318... and the older road has been regraded smoother (for highway crews) for another 7.9 miles (almost to Campo Delfines).
The pavement ends just 1.4 miles from the site of Okie's Landing...
The rough, older road lasts for just 10.4 miles to Papa Fernandez' road and improves greatly for the remaining 36 miles to Hwy. 1
The military checkpoint, 1.2 miles south of Papa Fernandez' road was open. It was after 2 pm and the Pemex at Alfonsina's was closed for siesta (2-4)
as before. Because it was now high tide, the airport and driveway to Alfonsina's was underwater... so we drove to the Rancho Grande beach instead...
Kristi sees Gonzaga Bay for the first time (technically this is Ensenada de San Francisquito, as San Luis Gonzaga Bay is the smaller bay between Papa
Fernandez' and Alfonsina's... but with a name like that, everyone calls the bigger bay 'Gonzaga', as well!
Really high tide!
The storm waves did a number on the sea wall.
Pilots have a 5,000 foot runway that is above the tide line, available at Rancho Grande.
We go to Campo Beluga and Sacrificio to check them out and consider staying the night at Gonzaga...
CONTINUED...
[Edited on 7-8-2011 by David K]
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viabaja
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Dave, cross using the road the fishermen use. It's compacted from constant use. One may travel longer in the water, but it's much safer! It's the
original road to the beach.
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David K
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| Quote: | Originally posted by viabaja
Dave, cross using the road the fishermen use. It's compacted from constant use. One may travel longer in the water, but it's much safer! It's the
original road to the beach. |
Yes, that is the route Esteban used... but it wasn't 'mud' as much as water that caused Art's tires to spin and not grab, just a few feet into the
water by the bridge...
The ground was very compact just a few inches below the mud... Art's spinning tires exposed dry clay... then the sea water filled in and his heavy
load/ non-mud tires couldn't get traction.
Bob and Pat Hale always used the old, original route onto the island in their bigger 2WD motorhome... no problems. I did too, before the causeway was
built in '84.
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El Vergel
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Location: San Felipe - Puertecitos Rd., Km. 35 and Santa Mon
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Wow!
Nice stuff! Always, an adventure in Mexico! Some freakier than others...but always rewarding!
Thanks for the great contextual imagery.
xoxBCMXxox
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David K
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Thanks Vern... LOT'S MORE TO COME!
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David K
Honored Nomad
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part b: Beluga and Sacrificio and away!
Rancho Grande and Beluga both offer palapa camping... If I were to choose, it would be Beluga... There are showers and flush toilets for the palapa
campers.
The road for Beluga and Sacrificio is 1.2 miles south of the Pemex/ Rancho Grande Market. It is 2.0 miles into Beluga from the main road and 4.2 miles
to Sacrificio.
Rancho Grande palapas
Beluga turnoff sign... Sacrificio shares the same road for the first 1 1/4 miles.
We stayed at Beluga in 2007 (photos in this web page: http://vivabaja.com/207/page3.html )
I was most curious about Sacrificio... We saw the signs for it in 2007 and only recently saw Preston's photos of it on Baja Nomad. Looked like a
possibility?
Eduardo (shirtless) was the man in charge... there were several other men staring at us... the creep factor builds. Eduardo was nice... he tells us
the rooms are 'refrigerated' (solar power AC)... and the rate is $60 (dollars)...
Here's the view...
Here's the 60 dollar room:
(nice shower head)
We are nice and say thank you to Eduardo and book it out of there for Baja Cactus in El Rosario!
The first boojum trees are seen 14.4 miles south of the Gonzaga Pemex...
The La Turquesa Canyon road is just beyond, at mile 14.6. Coco's Corner is at Mile 22.1 and Hwy. 1 is at Mile 34.8.
The road south of Coco's Corner was in good shape...
Looking towards Gonzaga from Hwy. 1:
We drive the 33 miles to Cataviņa with ease and need to buy 5 gallons (19 liters) of gas to not cut it too close getting to El Rosario. We learn that
Alfonso no longer is in the gas selling business and his spot is now manned by Eduardo (yes, another one)... The 5 gallon can is full to the brim, so
no getting short changed on the quantity. The price was bit more marked up over Pemex than Alfonso sold it for (typically a dollar over Pemex per
gallon)... but what are you going to do, if you need it? It was $22 dollars for the 5 gallons ($4.40/ gallon) and the Pemex price that day was $2.99/
gallon. It was still appreciated in that they drive 152 miles round-trip to sell gas here!
On to El Rosario... with a stop at Km. 105 to get close to some cactus:
We arrive at Baja Cactus to get a room secured (we had a reservation for the following night, not this night!). Then we drive out to Ed's Baja's Best
Restaurant and Bar for his outstanding Tequila Sunrises, with fresh squeezed orange juice! For dinner we go to Hugo's Tacos Mision and have stuffed
baked potatoes... YUM!
Monday we will have a great, relaxing day showing Kristi some sites in the area (Mission, Punta Baja, La Bocana, La Lobera)... TO BE CONTINUED!
[Edited on 7-8-2011 by David K]
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rubencastillo
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Dave you sure can write some good stuff, i can sit here and read all night..Be waiting for the next part.. Like the way You write down the miles,and Km.
Thanks again.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64620
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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| Quote: | Originally posted by rubencastillo
Dave you sure can write some good stuff, i can sit here and read all night..Be waiting for the next part.. Like the way You write down the miles,and Km.
Thanks again. |
Mil Gracias Ruben!
I have a much more detailed road log with miles and kilometer markers from San Felipe to Laguna Chapala that will be posted in the Baja Road
Conditions forum (as well as this trip report perhaps)...
The next part will be Monday July 4th where we had a great day showing Kristi the El Rosario area sites (well some of them, as there are just so
many)!
Also, as mentioned, we had dinner at Tacos Mision owned by local artist Hugo Lopez... His taco/ potato cafe is also his art studio... To see his art,
I have photos in this thread: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=52923
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viabaja
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Great pix Dave,
Yes whenever I need to cross the mud/water, it's at the old access.
That is how I meant Bob & Patti in 1979 or 1980. There was a motorhome parked on the beach right off the old "S" slot road that we would use
coming in from Santa Maria. I stopped and had to ask how in the world did they get that thing (2 wheel drive) onto the beach? Hence, our relationship
with Bob & Patti started and flourished! Talked to them last month - doing great - spending alot of time in Maui at their place.
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David K
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| Quote: | Originally posted by viabaja
Great pix Dave,
Yes whenever I need to cross the mud/water, it's at the old access.
That is how I meant Bob & Patti in 1979 or 1980. There was a motorhome parked on the beach right off the old "S" slot road that we would use
coming in from Santa Maria. I stopped and had to ask how in the world did they get that thing (2 wheel drive) onto the beach? Hence, our relationship
with Bob & Patti started and flourished! Talked to them last month - doing great - spending alot of time in Maui at their place.
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We saw Bob and Pat at Sunrise Cafe in Vista a couple weeks ago and chatted with them... Yes, not only their huge motorhome on that beach, but any
other 'normal car' they had in their group... It really is all about AIR PRESSURE (but I sure like it better having 4WD, too)!!
[Edited on 7-26-2011 by David K]
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Ken Bondy
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Fabulous report David. When are you gonna write YOUR book??
carpe diem!
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shari
Select Nomad
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Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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what a fun trip you all had...it was great to spend some time with Art & Nora...their rig is really cool...here is Art getting into the spirit of
things after a couple of Pacificos at Loncheria Mari...we had a great meal...pulpo, pate de atun, crab tortas and my favorite crab pillows...they
camped here at the Blowhole and last night in San Roque and are on the road today for Bahia Conception...good thing they have AC!
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David K
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| Quote: | Originally posted by shari
what a fun trip you all had...it was great to spend some time with Art & Nora...their rig is really cool...here is Art getting into the spirit of
things after a couple of Pacificos at Loncheria Mari...we had a great meal...pulpo, pate de atun, crab tortas and my favorite crab pillows...they
camped here at the Blowhole and last night in San Roque and are on the road today for Bahia Conception...good thing they have AC!
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That is awesome to see Art having fun... How cool of you Shari, thanks and thanks for adding his photo here! I bet they both had an aesome Baja Sur
exprience at Bahia Asuncion!
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David K
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Ken Bondy
Fabulous report David. When are you gonna write YOUR book?? |
Very kind of you to say so Ken! Maybe if we can work together, with your underwater photography included, it may have a chance!!?? LOL
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David K
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Here is the Road Log (also posted in the Road Conditions froum):
The following road log was made on the July 4th weekend, 2011.
MILE / KM. Marker
0.0 San Felipe (Traffic Circle by Pemex stations, south turn)
0.8 Pemex station and market on south side of town
6.0 Left Turn off Airport Road, Km. 0
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(add 6.0 miles to following for distance from traffic circle)
The next 45 miles are well paved, but many short, steep and unmarked dips will require reduced speed to avoid damage.
0.0 / Km. 0 Airport Road/ Puertecitos Road Jcn.
12.5 / Km. 20-21 Rancho Percebu Road
15.7 / Km. 26+ Shell Island Road
18.6 / Km. 31 Bahia Santa Maria Road
19.3 / Km. 32+ Nuevo Mazatlan Road
21.5 / Km. 35.5 Colonia Delicias (markets/ restaurants)
29.6 / Km. 49 El Coloradito Road
32.8 / Km. 54 Campo Cristina Road
35.4 / Km. 58.5 Los Olivos Road
36.1 / Km. 60 Arroyo Matomi
36.3 Rancho San Rafael (well)
43.4 / Km. 72 Playa Destiny
44.9 / Km. 74+ PUERTECITOS (paved) Road
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The newest paved additions to Hwy. 5 are well engineered, wide and are designed and signed for high speed. However, frequent rock slides onto pavement
require caution.
0.0 / Km. 74+ Puertecitos Road
5.0 / Km. 83 Bahia Cristina
6.1 / Km. 84.5 La Costilla
7.2 mine road
16.4 El Huerfanito Road
18.9 Bridge at previous end of pavement (July 2010)
20.1 / Km. 311 Change of Km. markers, distance from Mexicali
23.6 / Km. 317
24.1 / Km. 318 END OF PAVED DRIVE, detour onto older road, regraded smooth. Pavement ends just ahead on new roadbed.
25.5 Okie Landing site.
32.0 END OF NEW ROAD CONSTRUCTION and end of smooth dirt detour on older road.
32.4 Campo Delfines Road
35.6 Las Encantadas Road
37.7 Punta Bufeo Road
42.4 Papa Fernandez' Road, roadbed south of here is better/ faster.
43.6 Miltary Checkpoint
45.0 GONZAGA BAY PEMEX/ ALFONSINA'S ROAD/ RANCHO GRANDE MARKET (Pemex closed from 2-4 pm for siesta)
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0.0 Gonzaga Bay Pemex
1.2 Campo Beluga (2.0 mi.) and El Sacrificio (4.2 mi.) Road
7.1 Las Palmitas Oasis (4.7 mi.) and Santa Maria Canyon (4.0 mi.) Road, right.
14.4 First Boojum Trees on Hwy. 5.
14.6 La Turquesa Canyon Road, right.
18.4 Las Arrastras (site) Road, right.
22.1 Coco's Corner (Puerto Calamajue and Mision Calamajue road left).
34.8 Hwy. 1, Laguna Chapala (Cataviņa is 33 miles north).
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David K
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Trip Report continues with Monday, 7-4-11: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=53960
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Marc
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To bad about the storm. That is the night the fishing boat Eric went down.
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David K
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Marc
To bad about the storm. That is the night the fishing boat Eric went down. |
Yes, and it was no surprise when I heard of it on Tuesday, when I got back home. That was some fierce wind all night.
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edm1
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David, you must have just left when we arrived at El Sacrificio in the afternoon. The breeze was very pleasant at the time and we felt the need for
relief from the heat and decided to stay there for night. Being in a motorhome, there was no need for the $60 room, just a $20 camping fee. Marcos and
Eduardo were both there to welcome us.
The problem there was at night when the breeze turned into absolute stillness. Even with an hourly dip in the water at night, it was hot, evn with no
clothes at all in the dark ouside!!! We slept locked up in the motorhome, including the dog, Generator and A/C in full blast until we ran out of gas
at 6Am. Luckily, at 7 we went back to the Rancho Grande Pemex and the man willingly sold us gas that early.
Marcos told us about the capsized sports fishing boat too.
[Edited on 7-26-2011 by edm1]
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marv sherrill
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David - did you stop at Punta Bufeo? I used to go there every Easter break - haven't seen it in 20+ years.
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