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Author: Subject: Favorite concrete sealer?
oladulce
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[*] posted on 1-10-2012 at 04:42 PM
Favorite concrete sealer?


The first part of our patio was poured today. We're using a Davis Colors add-to-the-mix powder pigment and it looks pretty good.

I'd welcome any suggestions for a sealer for colored concrete. My only experience on colored concrete floors has been with Aldon SBS sealer (penetrating solvent based) and although it's held up well, it was labor intensive to apply. I used Scofield's Cementone water-based sealer on acid-stained concrete parapet and wall cap moldings, and love the stuff but don't know if it's durable enough for patio floors with abrasion of sand and dirt here.

A truck is coming next week from Otay Mesa with the windows and if I hurry I might be able to order a US sealer and get it on the truck.

What do you like?
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Mexitron
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[*] posted on 1-10-2012 at 05:43 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by oladulce
The first part of our patio was poured today. We're using a Davis Colors add-to-the-mix powder pigment and it looks pretty good.

I'd welcome any suggestions for a sealer for colored concrete. My only experience on colored concrete floors has been with Aldon SBS sealer (penetrating solvent based) and although it's held up well, it was labor intensive to apply. I used Scofield's Cementone water-based sealer on acid-stained concrete parapet and wall cap moldings, and love the stuff but don't know if it's durable enough for patio floors with abrasion of sand and dirt here.

A truck is coming next week from Otay Mesa with the windows and if I hurry I might be able to order a US sealer and get it on the truck.

What do you like?


I like the Aldon sealer, seems to hold up well and i like the glossiness options of the three different types. I used Cementone a long time ago and thought it was a little too shiny...but don't know about longevity.
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[*] posted on 1-10-2012 at 05:59 PM


Thompsons!

In another life I was a roofer for about 3 years.

This stuff is good.




No worries
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scouter
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[*] posted on 1-10-2012 at 06:03 PM


water base silane or lithium silicate try white cap in SD you don't want a laminate you want a penetrating reactive densifier don't us a wax base cure you will ruin the color water cure is best but don't allow ponds if there is any the pigments will attract minerals in the water and react causing a etch that will permanently discolor the concrete , that what Scofield's color wax was made to fix.. Sika , Euclid chemical, Sinak and Prosoco are all good choices. do some research , there all easy to apply don't introduce more material that the rate the concrete will receive it and you will be fine..
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[*] posted on 1-10-2012 at 06:07 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by oladulce
The first part of our patio was poured today. We're using a Davis Colors add-to-the-mix powder pigment and it looks pretty good.

I'd welcome any suggestions for a sealer for colored concrete. My only experience on colored concrete floors has been with Aldon SBS sealer (penetrating solvent based) and although it's held up well, it was labor intensive to apply. I used Scofield's Cementone water-based sealer on acid-stained concrete parapet and wall cap moldings, and love the stuff but don't know if it's durable enough for patio floors with abrasion of sand and dirt here.

A truck is coming next week from Otay Mesa with the windows and if I hurry I might be able to order a US sealer and get it on the truck.

What do you like?

We have natural slate floors and no water based sealer holds up against the abrasives: water and sand together. My last house had acid-stained concrete floors and the solvent based sealer never flaked off. The water based sealer worked fine for everything but the floors. jmo




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oladulce
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[*] posted on 1-11-2012 at 02:49 AM


Quote:
Originally posted by scouter
water base silane or lithium silicate try white cap in SD you don't want a laminate you want a penetrating reactive densifier don't us a wax base cure you will ruin the color water cure is best but don't allow ponds if there is any the pigments will attract minerals in the water and react causing a etch that will permanently discolor the concrete , that what Scofield's color wax was made to fix.. Sika , Euclid chemical, Sinak and Prosoco are all good choices. do some research , there all easy to apply don't introduce more material that the rate the concrete will receive it and you will be fine..


Thanks scouter. I spent a few hours on my homework assignment but my eyes kept fogging up from the steam the brain was producing trying to decipher those construction chemical product websites. They're definitely written for you guys in the Biz.

If I understand your informative post, a water based sealer isn't necessarily inferior, or less durable than a solvent base. More importantly, I should look for a penetrating product that improves the structure of the concrete (preferably a lithium silicate), and not just a surface treatment. Am I close?

I'm in Baja Sur and will be limited to a product that I can order online and have shipped to the trucking company warehouse to bring down. Can't run in to a White Cap if I want to get the new slab sealed ASAP.

I've seen a 5 gal bucket of a Sika roof sealer or waterproofer buried in our garage that the contractor brought over so that brand must be available in Mexico. I'll ask if we can Sika's concrete sealers down here.

Woooosh, later on I get to figure out what to use to seal all the laja-flagstone rock work. Luckily, this time it's all on vertical surfaces and nothing on floors. We made the mistake of doing an entire shower in peely Indian slate once- what a sealer/maintenance nightmare. Bad idea to use that soft slate in a wet, hard-water environment. Slate floors are cool, but if I used slate again I'd need to do more homework to choose a more durable type.
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[*] posted on 1-11-2012 at 05:47 AM


oladulce...you are my HEROS!!!



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oladulce
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[*] posted on 1-11-2012 at 08:49 AM
mutual admiration society


Quote:
Originally posted by Bob and Susan
oladulce...you are my HEROS!!!


Not sure why Bob & Susan?

Heck, you're the solar, SEMARNAT/PROFEPA, building-in-the-boonies pioneer who had to figure out how to get this stuff done before we even started. How many times have I asked you questions? You even knew about High Efficiency laundry detergent!

Without our regular resources such as you guys, LongLegsinLaPaz, and morgaine7 as well as all the folks on the forum who have taken the time over the years to answer my questions, there'd be even more trial and error going on around here.:dudette:
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scouter
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[*] posted on 1-11-2012 at 10:28 AM


just remember if it goes into the material, concrete, stone whatever and re acts
its more permanent than if it sits on top, the laminate systems that sit on top look nice but are subject to impact , abrasion wear and tear and also create a membrane that in the presence of moisture vapor transmission could eventually delaminate , causing more maintenance , the topical sealer, densifiers
breath so no risk there.... you don't need much material and you really only have one chance to do it right so good for you for asking..... you can't believe how many problems I see every day because some guy ran off half informed and really screwed up some nice material...... good luck Amigo
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[*] posted on 1-11-2012 at 11:03 AM


Quote:
Originally posted by oladulce
Woooosh, later on I get to figure out what to use to seal all the laja-flagstone rock work. Luckily, this time it's all on vertical surfaces and nothing on floors. We made the mistake of doing an entire shower in peely Indian slate once- what a sealer/maintenance nightmare. Bad idea to use that soft slate in a wet, hard-water environment. Slate floors are cool, but if I used slate again I'd need to do more homework to choose a more durable type.


Yup. All my showers are natural slate walls. Soap scum nightmares in each...




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[*] posted on 1-11-2012 at 12:44 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by scouter
water base silane or lithium silicate try white cap in SD

White Cap Store #15
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[*] posted on 1-11-2012 at 02:01 PM


we are using old english oil on our tiles to combat the hard water deposits

the water just cant stick to the light oil covering

it seems to be working...the tile still look great without alot of scrubbing




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Woooosh
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[*] posted on 1-11-2012 at 03:49 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by Bob and Susan
we are using old english oil on our tiles to combat the hard water deposits

the water just cant stick to the light oil covering

it seems to be working...the tile still look great without alot of scrubbing

good idea.




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[*] posted on 1-11-2012 at 07:59 PM


Try Rain-X on shiny tiles, bath fixtures and glass
It wools pretty well with the hard water in La Paz

Karl
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[*] posted on 1-20-2012 at 01:11 PM


We use Radon products on our job sites. This brand penitents deeper than any other brand.



http://www.radonseal.com/concrete-sealers.htm




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[*] posted on 1-24-2012 at 12:17 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by mcfez
Radon products PENITENTS deeper.




You sure about that, Pilgrim
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Bob H
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[*] posted on 1-24-2012 at 12:23 PM


Question: We just constructed a flagstone patio (on top of a cement slab and grouted)... does this need to be sealed?



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[*] posted on 1-24-2012 at 01:29 PM


i would. just because it's cheap insurance and with the way you slather BBQ sauce all over those ribs, it will help prevent any potential stains in the grout. i would think the pavers are bullet proof.

but, i could be wrong....




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