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goldhuntress
Senior Nomad
Posts: 663
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Awesome! I love your energy and the "overlanding" style of travel your doing, that is so cool! Keep the photos and the stories coming. See you on FB.
Safe travels
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defrag4
Senior Nomad
Posts: 536
Registered: 2-5-2011
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Carly spent the rest of the week hanging out with us and touring around San Pedro. One thing she wanted to do while in Guatemala was to visit some
Mayan ruins. In a country where over 50% of the population is indigenous Mayan it would be sacrilege to not visit one of their ancient sites.
We got to googling and did tons of research searching for nearby ruins to check out but came up bupkis. During our search however, we did find the
Iximché ruins just outside the town of Tecpan. I knew we passed Tecpan on the way to the airport in Guatemala City. We figured we could head out the
night before Carly left, drive to Tecpan, wake up early, tour the ruins, and get Carly on a plane around noon. Sounds like a plan to me!
During our spanish class we told our teachers about our plans to drive to Tecpan that night.
“Oh, you picked a very special night to go to Iximche.”
“Por Que?”
“Tonight is the Mayan new year!, of course”
… Of course? Our teachers explained about the Mayan Haab calendar, the long count-calendar, Tzoltin, equinoxes etc etc. The Mayans expounded upon 5th century BC knowledge of time and came up
with a system to track/predict important events long before they ever heard of a Roman/Julian/Gregorian calendar. It is actually a series of several
different calendars combined into one all-encompassing date keeping system.Pretty cool and complicated stuff.
Apparently it was so complicated that there were only a few people in ancient times who could actually understand it. These calendar readers were
important nobleman in the Mayan society and worked closely with the ruling class. Mayan rulers used the power of the calendar to assert dominance and
power over their cities/countrymen. If the king can predict what day the sun will be blocked by the moon, he must be talking to the gods and we should
do what he says.
While I was very confused with the whole explanation (It’s hard enough explaining concepts of time in english, now try it in a language you can barely
understand!) I managed to glean that tonight,March 21st, was an important night. Our teachers said the ruins will be open all night with
shamans and elders performing rituals, blessings, and celebrating the new Mayan year. We were in for something special. Excited with the news we ran
back to Carly. We packed her stuff and hit the road around 5PM for Tecpan.
The drive to Tecpan was uneventful. I was kind of hoping to see droves of natively dressed Mayans making a pilgrimage to the ruins. We drove through
the sleepy town around 9PM and headed towards the ruins to check them out.
We arrived at the Iximche ruins.. A construction crew was busy building a stage for some reason, but no signs of any ceremonies. We wandered past the
construction workers and into the actual ruins. No one was out checking any tickets or anything at this time of night. We ambled down the pathway
until we realized we were actually walking on-top of Mayan ruins. It was so dark we couldn’t tell until we noticed the mud/brick walls and carved
steps. Cool stuff, out here on our own ambling around ruins in the middle of the night.
There was no moon that night, It was pitch-black outside. Not sure if that happens every Mayan New Year or just a coincidence… With the accuracy of
the Mayan calendars I am leaning towards it not being an accident.
We kept seeing small groups of people walking off into the woods. We asked a group if they were headed to the “ceremonias”, They said yes so we
followed them down the random path.
As we walked the path we heard soft chanting steadily growing louder and louder. We pushed through some trees to a clearing to find this scene
awaiting us…
Mildly intimidated we slowly worked our way into the circle. We were the only non-Mayans there. It was pretty obvious we were tourists but we did our
best to be respectful and remain out of the way. The Mayans did not seem to mind us and were friendly. We were discreetly snapping photos under our
shirts, eventually realizing that the other Mayans there were taking pictures of the whole process. Clearly this was a rare occasion and an experience
for some of them as well.
The shamans were building the ceremonial circle when we first arrived. On top of a giant round stone platform they laid out an intricate circle design
on the ground with sugar. Then layer by layer they started filling and building up the circle with various offerings. Cinnamon, honey, sugar, rice,
maiz, avocados, coins, incense, candles, Quetzelteca!, beer, you name it. All things they were thankful for in the previous year. The entire time the
shamans are chanting various prayers. This is all taking place in Mayan dialects so we have no idea what they were saying. The building of the circle
was a beautiful and meticulous process.
After the circle was completed one of the elder shamans got up and gave a speech in Mayan and then translated it into spanish. I believe the jist was
that it is important for the Mayan people to preserve their culture, teach it to the children, and educate others about it. He described things they
were blessed with and things they had to look forward to in the coming year. He thanked everyone for coming to the ceremony and then got down from the
platform.
The shaman headed back to the ceremonial circle and began to light the candles in the circle. Meticulously lighting each candle in a specific order
North, South, East and West. Once all the ceremonial candles were lit he said another prayer and lit some small pieces of wood in the circle which set
the entire thing ablaze in a huge fire.
Once the fire was going, he spoke with the other elders and said something in Mayan to the crowd. The entire crowd dropped to their knees all facing
to the North and began chanting and praying. Not ones to be left standing around like a bunch of bozos we followed suit.
After praying and chanting for about 5 minutes in the North direction. Everyone leaned over and kissed the ground. And turned to the South. This
process continued until we had prayed in all directions North, South, East, and West. Emotions were high, lots of people crying and whispering
prayers. A very devout moment. We were privelged to be attending and witnessing such an event.
Eventually the prayers ended and the band struck up again, playing lively traditional music with flutes, drums, and marimbas. A few Guatemalan men and
women danced what looked a helluva lot like an irish jig around the flames of the fire for a while. Everyone was pouring beer and quetzecal into the
flames, as well as having a nip or two themselves. The men were smoking MASSIVE cigars. They were huge, as big around as a papertowel roll. The ladies
were trying their best to light up cigarettes. (It was obvious none of them ever smoked as I watched them struggle with matches and trying to figure
out how to light the cigarette, One lady set 1/2 the damn cigarette on fire in her hands and then started puffing on it!)
As the fire would die down someone would emerge with what I believe was sugar? and dump it all over the fire to bring the flames back. Eventually more
wood was brought out to keep the party going.
So… Lauren, Carly, and I are standing around having a good ol’ time watching these Mayan’s party it up. Excitedly discussing our new once in a
lifetime experience when all of the sudden we hear. SQWWAKK! The distinctive sound of a chicken. Uh oh…. Looks like the parties just getting started!
More pictures, VIDEOS, and the rest of the story at http://homeonthehighway.com
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defrag4
Senior Nomad
Posts: 536
Registered: 2-5-2011
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Oh and we just hit 500 "Likes" on facebook! Lets keep it rollin, If you havent Liked us, Do us a favor and spread the word. http://facebook.com/homeonthehighway
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defrag4
Senior Nomad
Posts: 536
Registered: 2-5-2011
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| Quote: | Originally posted by goldhuntress
Awesome! I love your energy and the "overlanding" style of travel your doing, that is so cool! Keep the photos and the stories coming. See you on FB.
Safe travels |
Glad you are digging it, Thanks for the like!
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64490
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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We dig the exotic, the beautiful, the wild, and the weird... all cures for civilization! Why we love Baja, as it is so close!
Thank you for sharing you adventures with us... it IS appreciated!!
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Skipjack Joe
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8084
Registered: 7-12-2004
Location: Bahia Asuncion
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Bump.
Why have the updates stopped? This was soooo enjoyable.
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goldhuntress
Senior Nomad
Posts: 663
Registered: 1-28-2010
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They update mostly on their website and Facebook. Here's the website http://homeonthehighway.com You can like them on FB there and get the regular updates.
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defrag4
Senior Nomad
Posts: 536
Registered: 2-5-2011
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Hey guys, We are in Nicaragua now, internet has been hard to come by so updates have been slow. Facebook is the best way to keep track, when we get to
CostaRica we will have some downtime and reliable internet to crank out some solid updates
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64490
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Thanks for checking in!
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defrag4
Senior Nomad
Posts: 536
Registered: 2-5-2011
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We spent 4 weeks in San Pedro La Laguna, Guatemala taking spanish school. It was a great learning experience and we really enjoyed slowing down our
pace and getting to know one location intimately. However, after a month in one spot our brains were burned out on spanish and we were ready to move
on.
Our last night at school they threw a big bash for all the students. We cooked up a traditional meal of Chuchitos and Jicacma tea. Laurens teacher
loaned her a traditional mayan outfit for the event.
The school got together and started cranking out Chuchitos (basically a Tamale with a lot less work) You take a ball of maiz flour and some oil, mash
it up into a tortilla shape and fill it with some chicken/vegetables, close it up and wrap it in a leaf from a ear of corn.
Chuchitos ready for cooking
Throw them in a pot on top of the fire with a bit of water, steam for 45 minutes.
Serve with salsa and EAT!
For a beverage, take a pot of water, add a boatload of Jicama (Hibiscus) flowers, and some sugar. Heat for a while, add sugar, and serve. Jicama tea.
We are going to miss our cabin in San Pedro, but all good things must come to an end and the trip must continue!
We said goodbye to our teachers at Corazon Maya spanish school in San Pedro La Laguna, Guatemala. We became very good friends with our teachers. You
spend 4 hours a day for 3 weeks talking to someone and you form bonds. We often wonder what our guatemalan teachers are up to these days…
We said goodbye to our sweet ass cabin
And took in our last views of Lago Atitlan…
Were off to Guatemala City to get some much needed repairs done to the truck (reoccurring theme??) and meet up with some friends.
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DianaT
Select Nomad
Posts: 10020
Registered: 12-17-2004
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What fantastic experiences you are having! Just great and what fun. Guatemala is such a beautiful country and so very interesting.
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defrag4
Senior Nomad
Posts: 536
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We made some friends off the internet (surprise, surprise) who offered up their place for us to crash in Guatemala City while we got some 4runner
repairs done (by another friend from the internet!). We pushed into Guat City with no real idea where we were going. Guatemala City is a crazy town,
traffic is horrible, the streets are a maze, and the signage slim. After driving around in circles for a while, making a few payphone calls, and being
lost for about 2 hours we finally found our way to our friend Julio’s place. Probably the nicest home we have seen so far in Central America.
Julio and his wife Karina welcome us into their home. We busted out the bottles of booze and became fast friends. They asked us what we missed most
from the states. Our answers were… #1 Chinese Food. #2 Movie theaters. (It doesn’t take much to please us…)
That night we went to get some Chinese food. Wantons and Brahva beer!
Our new friends, Julio and Karina.
After stuffing our face we went to the movies and watched Girl with Dragon Tattoo (subtitled in spanish). In one fell swoop Julio and Karina satisfied
our American desires. (Tickets were $2.50 each for a state of the art movie theater, Julio couldn’t believe we paid $10-$15 to see a movie in the
states)
Next morning we took the truck to our mechanic Adrian in Guatemala City. I had a laundry list of things I needed done/fixed on the truck. Adrian said
he would treat the truck as his own and we placed our baby in his hands.
The repairs ended up taking a while and we spent the next few weeks partying it up with Julio and Karina. We met all their friends and family and got
to see a side of Guatemala City most travelers never see.
Guatemala Cities “Eiffel Tower”
The worlds biggest plate of Guatemalan typical snacks. Julio got very excited.
Capital building of Guatemala (The Green House)
Guachitos! Guatemalan Drunk food. Greasy delicious hamburgers served up till 4AM.
Old town Guatemala City
Read the rest of the story and see more pics on the blog at http://homeonthehighway.com
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Skipjack Joe
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8084
Registered: 7-12-2004
Location: Bahia Asuncion
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If you haven't already done so spend some time in the ancient capital of Antigua. A very special place.
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defrag4
Senior Nomad
Posts: 536
Registered: 2-5-2011
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Before our trip we researched all the countries we would be visiting on the PanAm. Overwhelmingly, overlanders reported the most issues with border
crossings, corrupt cops, bribery, and theft in Honduras. From what we read the cops seem to like to play it fast and loose in Honduras with “official
laws” changing daily or even in between car checkpoints...
We came prepared with our “Anti-Bribery toolkit". 3 reflective triangles, 1 fire extinguisher, roll of reflective tape, crappy porn mags and cheap
cigarettes.
We mentally prepped ourselves for chaos and headed towards “El Florido”. We reached the border, nestled in a small valley between some large green
hills.
What we found was not quite the insanity we expected. In fact it was actually a pretty sleepy frontera with just a few trucks idling about. Not a
single scamming tramidor or corrupt official to be seen.
Equipped with our new spanish skills we asked around a bit and figured out the process. We found the aduana office and talked with a customs official
who took care of stamping our passports out of Guatemala and canceling our car permit. We gave him all the paperwork and just sat back, he ran around
various offices taking care of everything for us. Gratis! (Free)
Well… that was easy. It must get crazy on the Honduras side right??
We get back in the truck, drive a few hundred feet down the road and park in front of the Honduras Customs office. A man in a customs shirt comes up
to us and says he is headed to lunch... OK?
Apparently, the customs office closes daily for lunch. (OVERLANDING PROTIP: Get your border crossings done before 12:00PM)
The official instructed us to get our passports stamped into Honduras and then come back later to handle the truck paperwork. Alrighty… We didn’t
really have much of a choice so we stamped into Honduras and headed over to the comedor (restaurant) to have some lunch.
We entered the small lunchroom and the customs official waved howdy to us over his bowl of soup. We spent an hour eating lunch with the entire customs
office watching “Scrubs” dubbed in spanish on the lunchroom T.V.
FYI: I don’t think “Scrubs” style of humor translates to Central America… though that Zach Braff sure is dreamy.
When lunch was over we headed back with the customs official to the office. A bunch of stamps, bunch of copies, and we were in. No strange fees, no
bribes. Easy. Just how we like it.
As long as you have plenty of time to hang out for lunch “El Florido” is a great border crossing.
Welcome to Honduras.
I read somewhere that 75% of Honduras is on at least a 25% incline. I believe it, this country is full of rolling hills and mountains.
Our first stop in Honduras was Copan Ruinas. We had heard tale of a bar there with a german owner who was brewing up 100% organic hefeweizen and other
german beers. After drinking nothing but tasteless lagers for the past 5 months I was dying for a beer with some real flavor. Oh ya. I heard there
were some Mayan ruins nearby too…
We pull into the city of Copan Ruinas and start asking beer questions, someone points us in the direction toSol De Copan, German Bar and Restaurant.
We walked up and met Tomas outside smoking a cigarette, He saw our truck driving down the street with the California plates. He said “You guys must be
thirsty?”
We spent the rest of the entire day and evening hanging out with Tomas and making all kinds of new friends in Copan Ruinas. Once Tomas said we could
just camp outside the bar we REALLY hit the sauce…
I don’t recall much from that night. I do remember we woke up the next morning in a fog. We drove 5 hazy minutes to the ruins, stepped outside the
truck. Looked at the steep hike, looked at the hot sun, and then looked at each other… We jumped back in the A/C cooled truck and headed to the beach
chugging water and tylenol the whole way.
Maybe next time Ruinas!
Up until Honduras the weather has been fairly mild, not too incredibly hot, not to cold. The instant we crossed into Honduras it started to heat up
and humidify quickly. We thanked baby jesus that Adrian fixed our A/C in Guatemala City every time we stepped foot out of the truck into the inferno
outside.
The palm-tree lined sandy shores of Tela, Honduras were more our speed on that hot day. We sat in the shade, ate fresh ceviche, and nursed our
hangovers.
Sunset over the Caribbean. Tela, Honduras
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defrag4
Senior Nomad
Posts: 536
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Skipjack Joe
If you haven't already done so spend some time in the ancient capital of Antigua. A very special place. |
hey jack, we spent 3 days in Antigua, very cool place.
It has gotten pretty Ltouristy nowadays though. I have heard it changed alot in the last 3 years. Prices are going through the roof, native Antinguans
cant afford to live in the city anymore.
Still a beautiful place with great history.
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Ken Cooke
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8921
Registered: 2-9-2004
Location: Riverside, CA
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Mood: Black Trans Lives Matter
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When I traveled to Lima, Peru I stayed at a great hotel - Hotel Aleman. Would you know, numerous travelers there were Germans visiting S. America for
the first time.
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defrag4
Senior Nomad
Posts: 536
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Thoroughly relaxed and recovered from our hangovers we pushed towards La Ceiba, Honduras and Pico Bonito National Park.
Semana Santa (Holy Week) was rapidly approaching. During Semana Santa the entire latin american populace takes the week off and heads to the coastline
to party it up. On the beaches of Tela we were sitting at ground-zero for the madness. The hotel owners all said we should get the hell out of dodge
before Monday, every single hotel room was booked up for the next 8 days and people were flocking in by the thousands when we hit the road.
We headed for the hills! Specifically Pico Bonito national park located outside the town of La Ceiba, Honduras. We stopped by the grocery and stocked
up on supplies. We were planning to be gone for at least a week up in the mountain, vowing only to come out once the madness had ended.
The Rio Cangrejal winds through Pico Bonito park. Rio Cangrejal is known for its world-class white-water rafting.
We followed dirt roads all throughout the park searching for free place to pirate camp. Unfortunately you had the river on one side and crazy dense
jungle on the other. Not many opportunity's for camping. Beautiful country though.
I had some fun mashing through some wild river crossings and getting some weird looks from kids wondering why this gringo is driving in their swimming
holes.
On the road we pass this hut slinging some sort of jungle hooch. We, of course, pulled over to have a taste.
Guifiti/Gifiti is a Garifun native drink made out of sticks, herbs (including that good good), spices, and rum. It tastes like crap but they say its
good for your health and vigor.
Saluld!
They also had this bottle of AIDS for sale. Surprisingly it was pretty damn good.
Sun was starting to set and we still had not found a place to camp, We passed a few hostel/hotels on the way up the mountain so doubled-back to check
them out.
We found a spot called “Omega Tours” who offer cabins/camping/rafting tours in Pico Bonito. $5 a night and they have a bar. Sold!
More pics and the rest of the story on the blog at http://homeonthehighway.com
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defrag4
Senior Nomad
Posts: 536
Registered: 2-5-2011
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hey willy, I was just re-reading back through this post and realized that I have actually met Thomas. We met back in Lago Atitlan, I gave him some
good info on a spanish school and we hung out for 3 days. He is right behind us in Nicaragua. Cool guy and awesome truck!
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DianaT
Select Nomad
Posts: 10020
Registered: 12-17-2004
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Don't know your plans, but it is an interesting from the north coast down into the state of Olancho-- there are a couple of roads that head south and
I imagine they are still dirt, but good dirt. And there are some beautiful parks in Olancho.
The only time had the police ask about the triangles at the police stops was around Christmas time.  They were disappointed that we had them.
And you chose the right place to cross. Even since they paved the road, El Florido is the easiest. The main crossing, and I forget the name, where
all the truck traffic crosses is a madhouse!
Enjoying following your trip!
[Edited on 4-27-2012 by DianaT]
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defrag4
Senior Nomad
Posts: 536
Registered: 2-5-2011
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| Quote: | Originally posted by DianaT
Don't know your plans, but it is an interesting from the north coast down into the state of Olancho-- there are a couple of roads that head south and
I imagine they are still dirt, but good dirt. And there are some beautiful parks in Olancho.
The only time had the police ask about the triangles at the police stops was around Christmas time. They were disappointed that we had them.
And you chose the right place to cross. Even since they paved the road, El Florido is the easiest. The main crossing, and I forget the name, where
all the truck traffic crosses is a madhouse!
Enjoying following your trip!
[Edited on 4-27-2012 by DianaT] |
funny you should mention that... stay tuned for a future blogpost 
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