Gypsy Jan
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Baja Is Still Baja - A food-centric tour of iconic Rosarito, Puerto Nuevo and Ensenada
From The San Diego Reader
By Vanessa McGill, Nov. 13, 2012
"On our first of what will be many journalistic journeys south of the border, we explored the towns of Rosarito, Puerto Nuevo and Ensenada to check
out some of the upper Baja's more renowned spots.
Headin' south of the border
Cruising down coastal Route 1 is eerily akin to a drive north - a bizarro Big Sur, if you will. Just trade the greens for desert and Anchor Steams for
Sols. In all, it was a delicious, relaxing escapade, and while the return to U.S. took more than two hours in line (because we didn't adequately
inform ourselves), I highly recommend you forgo stigmas, slanders and stereotypes and see Mexico for yourself.
Many a moon before ever visiting San Diego, we drove the whole coastal route of Mexico, east and west alike. Seriously. If you'd like to hear more
about our "Journey of 2008," email us. Point being: when people who have never been to "real" Mexico try to tell us about how scary and dangerous it
is, we scoff snidely in their direction. We're pretty bad-ass.
Getting There: Easy
The drive from San Diego into Mexico is a breeze. Just make sure to get car insurance either at the drive-thru at the last exit before the border or
online (~$20/day for full coverage). For us, crossing into Mexico was easier than taking the Holland Tunnel to Manhattan (and no one checked our
passports or anything there). Once you're through, follow signs for Ensenada/Rosarito-Mexico 1 toll road.
Just 15-20 minutes from the U.S./Tijuana border crossing - on roads with some of the most breathtaking views - lies the sleepy beach town of Rosarita.
We went full-on-tourist and booked our one-night stay at the Rosarito Beach Hotel ($80 for a room/$125 for a condo). This hotel is well maintained,
with manicured gardens throughout - and very safe. We even heard rumors that the "cartel" knows to stay away from people donning the Rosarito Beach
Hotel wristband, which you are required to wear throughout the duration of your stay. Our room was spacious, immaculate and finely decorated, complete
with a ginormous oceanfront balcony.
The hotel has five pools, including the 19th-floor rooftop infinity pool as well as a beach side pool with its own waterslide, plus randomly scattered
hot tubs. The RBH also offers a full range of spa amenities, fishing, ATVs and horses on the beach, but what we came down for was simple relaxation
and nourishment - and by that we mean good food and cheap beer in a culture-drenched setting on the beach
After checking in and taking a brief stroll on the beach, we hopped back in the car and headed south ten minutes to the quaint fishing village of
Puerto Nuevo, the self-declared "Lobster Capital of Baja."
The cruise down the wide-open desert-y coast was breathtaking, and marked by the hugest statue of Jesus facing the sea open-armed. Ahhhh, Mexico!
Puerto Nuevo snuck up on us quickly and down into the tiny town we went.
You may recognize the name, Puerto Nuevo, as Mexican lobster restaurants are internationally known for their Puerto Nuevo-style lobster (as a matter
of fact, we happened to enjoy a PN-style lobster locally on Monday!). We were immediately bombarded with restaurant workers approaching the car,
offering their deals, whistling at us as we drove by. We parked and walked, and were greeted with even greater salesmanship intensity. When every
restaurant offers the same exact menu, choosing can be difficult.
We walked along the waterfront because I wanted my lobsters with a view, and after trekking the entirety of the village in under 10 minutes we chose
the picturesque Angel del Mar, with a huge open-air terrace and 180-degree views of the ocean. We indulged in four tender lobsters with butter, rice,
beans, tortillas and two margaritas for ~$30.
#Though it wasn't the dirt-cheap Mexico that we had come to know and love, we were in a prime tourist area, and we were elated that we came.
Rosarito
After returning to explore the Rosarito Beach Hotel, we grabbed beers from the ultra-mellow bar, walked the quarter-mile-long wooden pier amongst the
fisherman, checked out the various pool areas and roof deck, and then headed out for our next meal.
We had met a couple at Angel del Mar who wholeheartedly recommended carne asada and margaritas from El Nido, a beautiful "meat house" within walking
distance of our hotel.
With wood, pottery, brick, flowers and fountains, El Nido offers a warm, inviting atmosphere. We cuddled up next to one of the fireplaces and sipped
what we found to be our favorite (seemingly endless) margaritas while watching the Halloweeners pass by. We split the carne asada ($18), which came
with soup, salad, baked potato, roasted peppers - and, of course, chips and salsa. A decent, filling meal in a gorgeous atmosphere, but a bit
overpriced for our neighbor to the south. We'll be back for the margaritas and salsa.
We continued our adventure in search of some nightlife, but alas, we came on a Wednesday, and even though it was Halloween and Papas & Beer had a
decked-out haunted hallway, we were the only ones out to enjoy it. Literally. We chilled with the bartender (find Lou if you're there!) and talked
about the prospect of relocating south of the border until eventually venturing back out to the streets for a couple late-night burritos and tacos and
then retiring to our moonlit balcony.
The next morning we went to Los Arcos, literally right next to the RBH, on recommendation from a friend who had recently visited. We thoroughly
enjoyed the machacas con huevos, stewed beef with eggs, beans and the best fried potatoes ever, as well as the homemade, beautifully presented
fruit-covered waffle along with some delicious coffee. At $6 a pop ($13 total), this place is a must-stop for breakfast.
Ensenada
After digesting in one of RBH's hot tubs, we checked out and drove down to Ensenada, the third-largest city in Baja.
What we experienced of Ensenada was kind of strange. The city is by definition a port city as well as a cruise ship destination (there were no ships
in port, and therefore very, very few tourists). It's fairly industrial, and there are no true beaches, which really turned me off - but it's MUCH
more of a true "city" than sleepy Rosarito, and seems to offer ample shopping and dining options."
“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow mindedness.”
—Mark Twain
\"La vida es dura, el corazon es puro, y cantamos hasta la madrugada.” (Life is hard, the heart is pure and we sing until dawn.)
—Kirsty MacColl, Mambo de la Luna
\"Alea iacta est.\"
—Julius Caesar
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DENNIS
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Gypsy Jan
Ensenada--there are no true beaches, |
I guess all those miles of white sand by the water, from town to Estero Beach arn't "True".......whatever that means.
What a mow-ron.
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Gypsy Jan
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I Won't Detail
All my complaints about this lazy, superficial and completely stupid piece of crap that was published.
But. thank you Dennis - I did expect that you would pick up on this right away.
“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow mindedness.”
—Mark Twain
\"La vida es dura, el corazon es puro, y cantamos hasta la madrugada.” (Life is hard, the heart is pure and we sing until dawn.)
—Kirsty MacColl, Mambo de la Luna
\"Alea iacta est.\"
—Julius Caesar
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DENNIS
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Posts: 29510
Registered: 9-2-2006
Location: Punta Banda
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Gypsy Jan
All my complaints about this lazy, superficial and completely stupid piece of crap that was published.
But. thank you Dennis - I did expect that you would pick up on this right away.
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Ohhh well....the San Diego Reader won't ever be confused with award winning journalism....outside of Fulano's masterpieces, that is. 
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bacquito
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Not true about lack of beaches in Ensenada. There is a very good beach around the Macro Plaza area that extends to El Faro area. Many people enjoy it.
bacquito
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Hook
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WOW, El Nido and Papas and Beer! A couple of hidden gems, there.
She really pushed the envelope, didnt she? 
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