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TMW
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Fearsome Foursome Do Baja Sur
Trip Report
April 2013
Fearsome Foursome Do Baja Sur Off-Road Adventure.
This trip was months in the making. Last summer I was thinking of putting together a ride around Baja and Baja Sur with most of it off highway, in the
dirt. I also wanted it to be easy access to gas stations, hotels if possible and over roads that everyone had access to, in other words No Locked
Gates. In November I mentioned this to fellow Nomad El Comandante Loco, Rudy, a friend of mine. He asked me to map it out and send the maps and any
related thoughts to him. He said he had some friends that would be interested in doing such a trip.
I used the AAA Baja map and highlighted the route down to La Paz and back. The plan was to mostly camp. Stopping early each day to setup camp and
maybe get in some surf fishing. After careful consideration I thought it would take too long to do both Baja and Baja Sur, probably three weeks or
more. So after talking to Rudy we decided to do just Baja Sur and to start and finish in San Ignacio. We decided to meet at the Rice and Beans hotel
in San Ignacio on Thursday morning April 11.
The course is highlighted in yellow with green for the routes taken that were not planned. The section from Mulege back to San Ignacio was out due to
road damage west of San Juan de la Pilas as reported on BajaNomad so Rudy and I discussed coming down the San Raymundo Arroyo.
I arrived at the hotel on Wednesday evening. After I had checked in Rudy, Fred and Tim stopped by. They had already checked into another hotel and
invited me over for a home style cooked meal. After dinner I’m thinking this is going to be a great trip with their cooking ability. They would come
by Thursday morning by 8am and we would start the trip.
Thursday morning we gassed up and topped off the ice chest with ice. Our first stop was for pictures at the San Ignacio Mission and town square. The
paved road out of town runs about 20 miles, slow work for sure. At the Laguna we stop by the Cabana area and the Whale watching boat area and small
village further down.
Daves Tree.
At the road split we take the coastal road to El Datil where we stop and chat with some locals. After leaving and before meeting the graded road to
San Juanico we come upon a local, Sergio, with the left rear wheel off his truck, said he had been stuck for over a day. The lug nuts were stripped
and three studs broken off. We make a field repair on the wheel and had to pull him to get the truck started. It was not running on all cylinders and
as he tried to climb uphill it would stop. So Tim would pull him up the hills with his Ford 4x4 until we reached San Juanico.
The white stuff is Volcanic Ash.
At San Juanico he asked if we could take him to his home further south in exchange for some clams and fish. Off we go south to Las Posas on the new
highway passing La Purisima. At his home we meet his lovely wife. He cuts open some clams and his wife served turtle tacos. Yes, we know it is
forbidden but it would have been impolite to refuse. With a squeeze of lime on the raw clams and tasty turtle tacos how can it get any better? He
decides to set a fish net at an ocean inlet and says it is a good camp spot too so he and his brother in law guide us to the spot. At the camp site he
sets up his net and we setup camp. I tried fishing from the bank but no luck. The fish were jumping all over just not biting.
The camp site.
Friday morning he arrives just after breakfast and brings in the net. Crabs, several Halibut and one huge Robalo about 3 feet long. Looked almost like
a White Sea bass but was not. He invites us back to his house for fish soup. Later we pack up and stop by his house. He fillets a couple of Halibut
for us to take. His wife brings out the fish soup which was delicious. Later, on a very full belly we head down the road.
Gas and ice at CD Constitucion and on to Santa Rita and the turn off at KM157. Had a little trouble finding the SCORE course turn off and I took the
wrong one. Back to the graded road and west another half mile to KM10 where we pick up the SCORE ribbons. The desert cactus was at its finest. We will
follow this for about 70 miles along the coast before turning inland toward La Paz. We pass some ranchos and small villages along the way. At Boca
Guadalupe we turn off for our camp site. The sounds of the ocean waves lull of to sleep and greet us in the morning. A truly beautiful area with its’
long sandy beach.
That lonely road ahead.
Saturday morning after a beach stroll and breakfast we’re on our way. It’s a beautiful day, but aren’t they all in Baja. We turn inland near the Ley
Federal Agria Uno as shown in the Almanac. We turn onto hwy 1 at KM38. In La Paz we check into the Oasis hotel. Rudy, Fred and Tim brought all the
food, I was a freeloader, and another great dinner. Time to cleanup and get on the computer. The locals were having a party poolside with the kids
splashing away. Tonight we sleep in a bed. If you stay at the Oasis avoid the west facing rooms because of loud peac-cks sounding off during the
night.
Watch out for the Peac-cks, bring ear plugs.
Sunday morning we pack and stop for gas and ice for the trip up the Sea of Cortez side, the ocean water appears so calm and inviting. It’s an
interesting operation at the San Juan de la Costa mining facilities. We continue to San Evaristo and tour the town. Have you ever seen a panga with
two cows in it? We leave the town and pick up the route toward San Luis Gonzaga. We pass La Presa and for some reason we did not stop for a closer
visit, brain fade maybe. At San Luis Gonzaga we check out the Mission and other village buildings then move on to our camp site a few miles up the
road. Another beautiful evening with the stars out in full.
Monsters of the sea.
On the way to San Evaristo.
The cows may be mad, watch out.
The road to San Luis Gonzaga.
Friends along the way.
The Church at San Luis Gonzaga.
The back side.
The graves, God rest their souls.
Getting dinner ready.
Monday morning it’s on to CD Constitucion and a stop at Rudy’s favorite Menudo place where we had a big bowl. We were not planning on going to
Timbabichi but decide we should go since they had never been there. For the most part the road out was good but as we got closer you could tell the
rains had done a lot of damage. We took pictures of the hacienda and surrounding area and Rudy talked to a couple of the family members. On our way
back the Ford truck got a flat and damaged the tire sidewall. We camped at the large rock wall coral east of the farms.
The road to Timbabichi.
The hacienda and local family members.
The camp site near the rock coral.
I'm not sure what this is. A shrine? Note tree.
Tuesday morning we head back to CD Constitucion and Tim gets a new tire installed. We go east toward Auga Verde on the dirt road. Past San Jose de la
Norias we start down the mountain and find the road damaged. Rudy and Fred walk down further and come back telling us nothing is getting thru. Holes
as big as a kitchen table or larger. whole sections wiped out. So close yet so far. Back to CD Constitucion. We stop at a little motel before town. A
nice quite place except for the roosters.
Along the way.
So close yet so far.
Wednesday we take hwy 1 to Loreto and while getting supplies we meet a couple of Nomads and they tell us the Comondu road from San Javier is not
passable by 4 wheelers. Being a little gun shy from the Agua Verde run we decide to run up hwy 1 to KM60 and drive into San Isidro and take the
Guajademi route to Mulege. About 20 plus miles or more we meet a local who tells us the switchbacks were damaged and they were working on it but we
would not be able to get thru at this time. So back to San Isidro and over to La Purisima to stay at the local hotel.
The La Purisima hotel.
The church.
The General.
A morning stroll.
Thursday we decide to run up past San Juanico to the San Raymundo Arroyo and take it back to Mulege. We stop in Cadeje and spoke with a store owner
and she said yes it was open and to take the left fork toward San Raymundo. Again several miles out of town we talk to a local rancher and he says the
road is open but the rains have damaged the arroyo and they were working to clear it out and travel was very slow going. At this point we decide to
move on to San Ignacio by way of the high road past Rancho El Cuarenta. At the ranch I gave them some can food, water and AAA batteries. We make it
back to San Ignacio before 3pm so we decide to move on to Guerrero Negro.
That long dry run through the desert.
On the mud and salt flats to San Ignacio.
At Guerrero Negro we have dinner at Malarrimo’s. I want to be back in San Diego to turn in the satellite phone on Friday so I head north and the rest
of the guys stay the night in GN. I get to the Baja Cactus hotel in El Rosario by 10pm.
Friday morning I’m in Maneadero and at a stop light I go thru while the green light is flashing. Next thing I know a cop pulls me over and says I ran
a red light. After much discussion he says he will take me to the police station and the fine is $65. I disputed that and said let’s go to the
station. I follow him several blocks and he pulls over and comes back to tell me the fine is now $20. So I give him $20 and get on my way. I cross at
Tecate at 1:15pm and it only takes 30 minutes.
This was another fun and interesting trip around Baja Sur. We did not try to be at any one location at a given time but to let things happen as they
come to us. We stopped many times to check out what Baja has to offer, such as the various rock formations in the different areas. From the volcanic
ash along the coast, the sink holes on the mountain side, the green farm lands and beautiful beaches on both sides. Along the way we met many warm and
friendly people, always ready to help if needed. I look forward to a similar trip around the northern half.
[Edited on 4-24-2013 by TW]
[Edited on 4-24-2013 by TW]
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bajajudy
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6886
Registered: 10-4-2004
Location: San Jose del Cabo,BCS
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WOW
You guys did it right!
Terrific photos. I love the cow, the door to nowhere and its matching tree, all the local people.....heck I loved it all.
thanks for sharing
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Mexitron
Ultra Nomad
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Location: Fort Worth, Texas
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Mood: Happy!
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Impressive trip! That's the same basic route I've had on the backburner for a few years now(work gets in the way of Baja, eh?). Thanks for the great
trip report.
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Santiago
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Great report on a great trip!
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Howard
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Mood: I'd rather regret the things I've done than regret the things I haven't done.
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This is what I thought the report was going to be about!
Rosey Grier, Lamar Lundy, Merlin Olsen and Deacon Jones.
Great trip and I am sure more than one lifetime of stories to tell.
We don't stop playing because we grow old;
we grow old because we stop playing
George Bernard Shaw
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bajamedic
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Mood: Just waitin for baja
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Wow, wow, wow, a dream trip for many people... someday. JH
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wessongroup
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Thanks TW ...... enjoyed the trip 
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wessongroup
Platinum Nomad
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Thanks TW ...... enjoyed the trip
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Paulina
Ultra Nomad
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Thank you for posting your adventure.
I have never thought of using a cow as a beach anchor, but it looks like it works. A little troublesome to lug around, but it would easily pull boat
onto the beach and hold it in place.
Good on you guys for helping that guy with the wheel issue. He might have been stuck there for quite some time. A nice perk of not being on a
schedule. You were in the right place at the right time.
P>*)))>{
\"Well behaved women rarely make history.\" Laurel Thatcher Ulrich
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DENNIS
Platinum Nomad
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Location: Punta Banda
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Academy Award stuff. Thank you.
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jbcoug
Senior Nomad
Posts: 709
Registered: 9-24-2006
Location: Vancouver, WA
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Mood: Needing Baja!
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WOW!!!!!!!
John
\"The average dog is a nicer person than the average person.\" Andy Rooney
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Bajaboy
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4375
Registered: 10-9-2003
Location: Bahia Asuncion, BCS, Mexico
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Great report....thanks for getting me even more excited for my summer trip!
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Ateo
Elite Nomad
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TW, always love your reports. Gonna take another look at it en la mañana. Checked this on on my phone and the screen size didn't do it justice!
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TMW
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Thanks everyone. Just so you know, everywhere we went could be done by a 2 wheel drive vehicle with clearance. There were some deep sand pockets on
the road to El Datil and further south but with speed no problem. I was surprised there were no silt beds of any concern on the Baja 1000 course after
Santa Rita which is totally different from when I pre-ran the course in late Oct of 2010.
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motoged
Elite Nomad
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TW,
A most excellent trip 
What were the silt beds south of Rancho Cuarenta like 
Those "turn-backs" were likely in the areas you most wanted to see, I imagine....a pity.
Thanks for the story and pics 
P.S. Bajacalifornian's recent post indicated that the road from San Javier to Commondu WAS ok for 4 wheels ???
http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=66866
[Edited on 4-25-2013 by motoged]
Don't believe everything you think....
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David K
Honored Nomad
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Wow, I just looked quickly at the photos but will get back and read the details... Thank you Tom!!!
Edit: Okay, just read it, and can I have more please!!  
Thanks!
[Edited on 4-25-2013 by David K]
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gnukid
Ultra Nomad
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Great Trip, Great Route, this is what Baja Dreams are made of!
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Bob H
Elite Nomad
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Registered: 8-19-2003
Location: San Diego
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Wow, that was a great report and photos! Really enjoyed it all... looks like you guys had a blast.
The SAME boiling water that softens the potato hardens the egg. It's about what you are made of NOT the circumstance.
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TMW
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| Quote: | Originally posted by motoged
TW,
What were the silt beds south of Rancho Cuarenta like
P.S. Bajacalifornian's recent post indicated that the road from San Javier to Commondu WAS ok for 4 wheels ???
http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=66866
Actually the silt beds were of no concern, nothing compared to when the race goes thru.
When they get the road by San Juan de la Pilas open I would like to do a trip thru the comondu's, San Isidro to Mulege and over by la Pilas to San
Ignacio. All three sections would make for a great trip. |
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willyAirstream
Super Nomad
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Thanks for an exciting and informative report!
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