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TMW
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Posts: 10659
Registered: 9-1-2003
Location: Bakersfield, CA
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Baja Amigos Off-Road Adventure
Baja Amigos Off-Road Adventure
April 2014
It’s a sunny Tuesday morning April 15th south of San Felipe as six amigos finish packing for fun and adventure. Rudy, Tim, Fred, and Robert had packed
all the frozen food in specially lined coolers to keep them frozen longer. Ron and Tom, that’s me, have joined them for this fun and interesting trip.
Three 4x4 mini-trucks are loaded to the brim. Everything we need and then some for our 10 day journey into the back roads and trails of Baja.
The crew and task assigned:
Fred: Food and Beverage Maintenance Specialist.
Ron: Equipment Maintenance Specialist (mechanic).
Rudy: Logistics and Equipment Coordinator.
Robert: Chief Chef (cook).
Tim: Historian and Rock Specialist.
Tom: Guide and Trip Planner.
L-R Fred Ron Rudy Robert Tim Tom
It’s down hwy 5 to Gonzaga Bay on the ever reaching paved hwy, then on to Coco’s Corner. We off load supplies for Coco and chat a bit. Then it’s off
to hwy 1 and further south into Baja Sur. As will play out in the days to come our MO will be to get on the road at or near 8am and stop for the night
around 4pm. Our first night is at Campo Rene off the hwy to Punta Abreojos. A camp on an inlet from the ocean with showers, a restaurant and bar,
several palapas and motel type housing for those who don’t want to rough it. Robert is the official chef on this trip and we are not disappointed at
dinner.
Wednesday morning after an excellent breakfast, which will become standard, we’re on the road to San Ignacio for ice and gas. Through the town square
and out toward the Laguna. About 20 miles out of town we turn off for the village of El Patrocino. At El Patrocino we inquire about the road to San
Juan de Las Pilas. The locals told us it was passable to get there but rough in places. The road was OK to good up to a Rancho shown as San Alfonso in
the almanac. There were many people celebrating Easter holidays. We were told getting to Las Pilas was possible but the road was rough as we were to
find out and the road was closed after the rancho.
I made it up a deep sand hill but the others were having trouble so out came the tow straps and I pulled the first Nissan up then we did a tandem pull
to get the other Nissan up. Soon afterwards the two Nissan trucks decided to stop and wait for us to visit Las Pilas and return. Ron and I made our
way to the Rancho. We were greeted by Jesus and Guadalupe, Lupe to her family and friends. They were warm and friendly and invited us to have a snack
with them. I provided Jesus with a cerveza and Lupe with a coke. When they found out we had two other trucks waiting for us to come back they insisted
we get them and camp at their ranch and we did.
Jesus and Lupe
San Juan de Las Pilas has cattle, horses, and donkeys. They grow a large garden of many vegetables. The next morning Jesus took us up stream to see
the paintings on the rocks about a mile away. Along the way we could see the vast water irrigation system for the garden, the house and for the
animals. All from a spring feeding into a very large concrete holding tank. He showed us two mountain lion skins he had shot. They told us the road
toward Mulege had been closed for three years. After walking to the paintings we could see why, the old road was gone. It was about noon and we had to
leave. It was such a pleasure being there. Soon we are back to San Ignacio and on hwy 1 we make it to the San Lucas RV and camp ground.
Notice there is no road anywhere.
Friday the 18th another great breakfast and it’s off to Mulege. Ice and gas and out of town we go taking the turn-off for Ray’s place or as others
would say the Ice House Rd. We follow the dirt road out of to a sign with an arrow to La Trinidad. Then to the Rancho Las Cuevitas where we take the
road toward the San Raymundo Arroyo and road. The road is like a roller coaster at times with steep up hills and down a fun ride for sure. At the
junction for San Raymundo and San Estanislao we take the San Raymundo road. The sign says it’s 80 kilometers or 50 miles to La Ballena. However it
turns out to be only 38 miles. It’s a good road overall. We pass ranchos and cross the stream bed several times.
Weird tree along the way
At La Ballena we turn toward San Juancio and on to La Purisima. We take the race course turn-off about 10 KMs south and wow was it torn up by the
rains. At an area shown as Los Burros in the almanac I felt I had taken the wrong road. I did not recognize any of it. Rudy went ahead and asked the
people at the rancho if it was the road to La Purisima and they said yes so we went on. We camped near where the road crosses the water short of the
paved hwy.
On the San Raymundo road Fred was having problems with his brakes. The pedal would go to the floor but on the paved road out of San Juancio they
seemed OK. So Saturday morning we decide to head to CD Constitucion for brake parts. After bleeding the brakes it was decided the master cylinder
needed replacing. After going to six auto parts stores we finally found one. Ron would replace it at the camp site in the morning. Of course we must
have lunch but Rudy’s favorite Menudo place is closed so it’s off to his second choice for a chunky pork soup. An excellent choice.
Leaving Constitucion it’s up hwy 53 to the San Javier turn off at KM27. The road to San Javier is a good road most of the way then we start crossing
the San Javier arroyo with its rocky stream bed several times. They are not big rocks just a slow you down type, 4x4 not required. At San Javier it’s
a tour of the church and grounds then on to the Comondu road. Shortly after turning onto the Comondu road there was a family setting up camp and I
asked about the road and the man said it was rough while shaking his head. Boy was it ever. Nothing like it was last November when I came thru. It was
slow going on a long up hill in 4x4 low range. The rocks were not real big just lots of them. Soon we come to Palo Chino an abandoned ranch. We make
this our camp for the night and ready ourselves for another excellent dinner by Chef Robert, we were not disappointed.
The road is much rougher that it looks.
Sunday morning April 20. Ron and Fred change the brakes master cylinder on Fred’s truck. We pack up and continue to the Comondus. Along the way Fred
says he still does not have brakes. At Comondu we look around the church and check out the town near the church. Back on the road to San Isidro. The
road is much better. The road grading is now about 12 miles from San Isidro toward the Comondus and in great shape. At San Isidro we decide not to
take the Guajademi road to Mulege but instead go out to hwy 1 and down to Loreto and see if we can get the brakes fixed.
This is how some people get their water in San Isidro
Mtn. Goats on the road from San Isidro to hwy 1
In Loreto we get rooms at the Desert Inn and a hot shower. That evening we eat dinner in town and most of us order a hamburger and fries, go figure.
Monday morning we also eat in town at a local shop and have an excellent breakfast. After breakfast we split up while Fred goes looking for a brake
repair shop with Rudy. Robert and Ron look for a welding shop to fix Rudy’s front bumper guard. Tim and I go site seeing around town. We all meet back
at the PEMEX on hwy 1 as you leave town to the south.
All seems OK or is it? North we go to San Ignacio for gas and ice. Soon we are on the No Wimps Trail. This will be the reverse of what Phil and I did
in January. It’s up to the Santa Marta jct. and on to El Gato for the night. El Gato is a large rock corral with a deep well and concrete holding tank
on the east side of the road and a smaller rock corral on the west side. To our dismay the brakes are still no good off road but OK on the highway. We
will give this much thought as the cool night and clear skies are a perfect setting for sweet dreams.
Tuesday April 22. We wind our way thru Arroyo La Trinidad to the Sea of Cortez near Punta Trinidad. Then up along the beautiful sea side coast past
the salt flats and on to Los Corrales. Along the way is a rope across the road with a cup on the post, a sort of toll road request. There is a tent
and other packing’s but otherwise no one is there. Further up I somehow manage to get us lost just south of the 28th parallel as we make our way west
and around the hills. A couple of wrong turns and we’re down a dead end canyon. But never fear my GPS is near and I see the error of my ways and back
on track we go. We stop at a palapa on a hill and notice a man on the high side overlooking the ocean where we had been before going west. Could this
be the guy with the tent and toll cup, maybe but that was a ways back? We see him and are sure he sees us but since he makes no attempt to signal for
us we assume he is a kayaker taking a rest.
Go figure, boy did it smell.
We turn inland and soon stop at the Shrine for lunch. Back on the road I again get us lost by taking the wrong road at the fork. In my defense it was
the one with the tire tracks where the other had none. Back to the fork and the right side was the right one. It’s Rancho Ilusion and out their gate
to El Barril then over to San Francisquito for the night. A farmer from Sacramento stops by on an ATV for a nice chat about the area and it was he who
told us about the sale of the facilities there. Later clear skies and the lapping of waves make for a sound sleep.
Wednesday April 23. The road from San Francisquito to LA Bay has been recently graded and in great shape except for a couple of rough spots. We stop
at Panchos dropping off some can food etc. There are several fishing boats in the surf and a small group of people with them staying at Panchos. There
is also a Canadian gentleman there and we all have a good chat before leaving. In LA Bay we camp at Daggets. A shave and hot shower is most welcome.
Dead Squid at Las Animas on the way to LA Bay
Ever see a Squid's eye. They have sharp beaks too.
Thursday we move on to the San Borja turnoff and out to the Montevideo rock paintings. Along the way we see an orange moss on the elephant trees, I’m
told that’s not good for the tree. The road to the San Borja Mission is on the rough side to say the least. At the mission we have a guided tour of it
inside, outside and topside. It’s such an interesting facility with the old robes and artifacts and beautiful paintings. The mother and son that let
us in gave the tour were excellent hosts. We leave taking the road to hwy 1 at Nuevo Rosarito, it was much better than the road from hwy 12.
I'm told this is not good for the tree.
Another Weird Tree
At the El Crucero turn-off we meet several motorcycle riders that had just come out from Cocos on the Baja 1000 course. They were just a group of
friends on a ride. Also there was a van and trailer with the Chris Haines tour group. The man driving the van said they had 8 riders coming out but
added they were slow riders. We decide to go in toward Mission Calamajue. We are careful looking for dust and any sound of a motorcycle coming toward
us as well as having our lights on. We stop from time to time to survey what’s ahead. Soon we make it to a nice camp spot and about 30 minutes or so
later the bikers come thru. They don’t look slow to us as they were on the throttle.
Not much left at Calamajue
Friday April 25. The winds have picked up thru the night. Breakfast was light but still a Robert masterpiece of burritos. Instead of taking the race
course road to the main road that goes to Bahia Calamajue we follow tire tracks down the wash toward the fish camp. Well while it was my ideal it was
not one of my better ones. After losing the tire tracks and getting a GPS reading it was decided to go cross country to the road. The road from about
KM25 to the fish camp has some major damage from the rains over the years but there is a good side road in the sand. The fish camp is abandoned with
the two main buildings still there. Not much left of the rest of the area some small buildings and what’s left of a couple of trucks and campers.
There are people staying there bagging shells for commercial sales.
Where they smoke the fish.
Not much left of the fish camp.
It’s back on the road and up to Cocos for a cold beer and catching up on the latest news and happenings. Then up to the La Turquesa mine for a look
see. Later we turn off and visit the Las Palmitas area with its many tall palm trees. The road going in was washed out on the downhill to the Santa
Maria Arroyo so we were detoured down a very deep sand hill. Thinking we would not be able to get back up we follow the tire tracks east in the
arroyo. As we get to the main road to Gonzaga the road working crew has piled large piles of sand and dirt on the west side of the road. We had to
turn south until we find an opening to the road. Finally on the road we stop for gas at the PEMEX. It’s now the highway to Rudy’s place.
Cocos
The Turquesa Mine.
Palm Trees.
The end of an area is coming soon.
Saturday April 26. After a good night’s sleep I’m packed and say my goodbyes to everyone and it’s on my way home thru Tecate. The border wait was
about 30 minutes.
It was another fun and interesting Baja trip. Along the way we met many friendly people including ranchers, camp ground folks, hotel and restaurant
workers, repair shops, auto parts stores and the ever present PEMEX attendants.
Now planning the next Baja trip begins. I miss it already.
AAA maps of the trip.
[Edited on 5-5-2014 by TW]
[Edited on 10-15-2014 by TW]
[Edited on 10-15-2014 by TW]
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64855
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Wonderful trip report Tom! I am just dying to get back down there... Thank you for sharing with us!
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ehall
Super Nomad
Posts: 1906
Registered: 3-29-2014
Location: Buckeye, Az
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Mood: It's 5 o'clock somewhere
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nice trip report.
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msteve1014
Senior Nomad
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Very nice. You really get around.
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Bajaboy
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4375
Registered: 10-9-2003
Location: Bahia Asuncion, BCS, Mexico
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I've been to most of those places on various trips...your trip reports keep reminding me I need to get back out there and explore some more. Thanks
for sharing.
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Udo
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6346
Registered: 4-26-2008
Location: Black Hills, SD/Ensenada/San Felipe
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As great a trip report as I have even seen on this forum!
Thanks for sharing!
Udo
Youth is wasted on the young!
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StuckSucks
Super Nomad
Posts: 2323
Registered: 10-17-2013
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Thanks for turning me onto a few places I need to visit.
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Leo
Senior Nomad
Posts: 518
Registered: 9-23-2004
Location: Todos Santos
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Mood: could be better
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Love some of your pictures. Great report, THANKS !
The grass is always greener....
and so, there is always a better spot in Baja
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64855
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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The palms at Las Palmitas oasis sure tell a story about the wind direction!
Emerson had also heard that the Las Pamitas road grade was washed out, so he drove to the Camino Real trail-head from the Hwy. 5 arroyo crossing
(where the new bridge is going in). I drove in on the Las Pamitas road and drove out in the arroyo... yes, deep sand... and that was back in 2002 or 3
when I hiked the ECR towards the mission.
Here is where Las Palmitas, the Camino Real, and Gonzaga Bay are:
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BornFisher
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Location: K-38 Santa Martha/Encinitas
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Radical trip report!! Going where not many others go! Thanks for the great write up and pics, sounds like a great crew!
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64855
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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TW, did Coco get a battery for the quad? Ehall just asked in this thread: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=72960
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viabaja
Nomad
Posts: 277
Registered: 10-6-2003
Location: Georgia
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Thanks for pix guys. Appeared to be a great trip!
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Pacifico
Super Nomad
Posts: 1299
Registered: 5-26-2008
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Great report, TW! Yours are among my favorites with all your pics. Well done, once again!
"Plan your life as if you are going to live forever. Live your life as if you are going to die tomorrow." - Carlos Fiesta
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wessongroup
Platinum Nomad
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Mood: Suicide Hot line ... please hold
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Thanks ... enjoyed the ride 
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Skipjack Joe
Elite Nomad
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Location: Bahia Asuncion
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| Quote: | Originally posted by TW
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What a cutie. How old is a colt like that?
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willyAirstream
Super Nomad
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Thanks TW!
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Santiago
Ultra Nomad
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Great report Terry, really outstanding. Maybe I missed it, but what was the reason for the breaks not working off road?
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Whale-ista
Super Nomad
Posts: 2009
Registered: 2-18-2013
Location: San Diego
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Mood: Sunny with chance of whales
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Wonderful adventure. Thank you for sharing the great photos and report with us.
\"Probably the airplanes will bring week-enders from Los Angeles before long, and the beautiful poor bedraggled old town will bloom with a
Floridian ugliness.\" (John Steinbeck, 1940, discussing the future of La Paz, BCS, Mexico)
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Ateo
Elite Nomad
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What an adventure! I like that Ballena road. Wish I would've took more pictures when I traversed it. Thanks TW.
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woody with a view
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Mood: Everchangin'
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T minus 33 days......
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