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Matt Drown
Newbie
Posts: 8
Registered: 4-23-2015
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
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First time Trip Questions
Greetings, first post, so pardon the newbie questions. 
I'll be driving down to Todos Santos in a couple weeks, coming down from San Jose CA, and looking for any route recommendations regarding food and
lodging on the way down (mostly in the Baja side).
Planning an arrival of the 12th in Todos Santos, but departure date is flexible, so can do the trip down in 2-5 days depending on where I stop and
explore.
Have a stock 4wd '99 4runner, if it matters. I drove rental cars in Mexico before (cancun-tulum-chichen itza), but haven't driven across the border.
I know I need Mexican insurance.
Staying in Todos Santos for at least a couple weeks to explore around that area once I get down there.
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!
[Edited on 4-27-2015 by Matt Drown]
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4x4abc
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4202
Registered: 4-24-2009
Location: La Paz, BCS
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Mood: happy - always
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Matt,
get an AAA map, emergency Valium and go.
Gas stations, food joints and super markets are clearly visible. Some take credit cards, many won't. Drive and enjoy!
Don't drive too fast, don't drive at night.
Follow MEX1
Watch out for unmarked topes
watch out for giant potholes
San Jose to Todos Santos is about a 28 hour drive.
Stress free: San Jose - San Diego
San Diego - Catavina (Hotel Desert inn)
Catavina - Loreto (Hotel Oasis)
Loreto - Todos Santos
Harald Pietschmann
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Matt Drown
Newbie
Posts: 8
Registered: 4-23-2015
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
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Will look for a printed map as a backup (was planning on offline gps maps), I assume I can pick up the Valium in TJ
San Diego to Todos Santos is about 7-8 hours a day depending on number of stops we make for snacks?
Thanks for the hotel recommendations, looking them up now. Any food suggestions for the ride? (Happy to try things)
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Bob53
Senior Nomad
Posts: 661
Registered: 2-24-2014
Location: Fallbrook, CA & Bahia de los Angeles
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Make sure you get a tourist card (FMM) at the Mexican immigration office at the border.
Bring your passports.
The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
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4x4abc
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4202
Registered: 4-24-2009
Location: La Paz, BCS
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Mood: happy - always
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make reservations for Desert Inn Catavina - it's the only hotel within a 100+ miles radius
Loreto has plenty of hotels to chose from - Oasis is the most charming
paradise breakfast location
Harald Pietschmann
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4x4abc
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4202
Registered: 4-24-2009
Location: La Paz, BCS
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Mood: happy - always
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alternative, more relaxing route:
go through Palm Springs and Mexicali (hotel in Calexico)
spend the night at Alfonsinas
25 miles of rough dirt after Alfonsinas though
drive slow or you'll get a flat
much more enchanting route than TJ - Catavina
Harald Pietschmann
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BajaBean
Junior Nomad
Posts: 66
Registered: 3-17-2015
Location: Hemet CA
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Mood: Garboso
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Or you can make Guerrero Negro in about 12 hours from the border on Mex 1. Stop at El Rosario and have lunch at Mama Espinoza's.
This is providing the demonstrations at San Quintin are over.
Be sure to gas up at the Pemex next to Mama's. No gas for a looooong way except maybe along the road out of 50 gal drums.
DO NOT DRIVE AT NIGHT. I left G.N. before sunrise and almost had a steer riding with me on the hood.
The opposite of love is not hate. It is indifference.
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güéribo
Nomad
Posts: 239
Registered: 10-17-2014
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Welcome! Fun awaits.
If you won't be stopping and exploring much on the way down, I echo 4x4abc's plan:
San Diego - Catavina (Hotel Desert inn)
Cataviña - Loreto (Hotel Oasis)
Loreto - Todos Santos
Hotel Oasis in Loreto is truly great for breakfast. We have enjoyed staying at Rick and Jill's (Las Cabañas de Loreto) . . . they are truly hospitable and can guide you toward all the fun stuff. And you can still walk over and eat at Hotel
Oasis, enjoying the view of the sea.
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elgatoloco
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4328
Registered: 11-19-2002
Location: Yes
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We like to use pesos so we call our bank and let them know we will be travelling and then we hit an ATM take the max out right after we cross the
border. Then refill regular as needed. We will use credit cards at hotels so we also let our credit card know we are traveling to Baja. I would take
my time getting down, lots to explore on the way.
San Diego - BOLA
BOLA - San Ignacio
San Ignacio - Mulege
Mulege - Loreto
Loreto - Todos Santos
Todos day trips to:
La Paz
San Jose del Cabo
and more!
MAGA
Making Attorneys Get Attorneys
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Alan
Super Nomad
Posts: 1617
Registered: 4-6-2005
Location: Yucaipa, CA/La Paz
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All good advice so far. AAA is one of the best maps for Baja as it provides distances between towns and gas stations as well as details for larger
cities such as TJ, Ensenada, La Paz, etc. From San Diego the trip to Todos Santos can easily be made in 2 days and commonly is by most travelers.
However since this is your first trip SOB keep in mind the trip is just as good as the destination. It's a beautiful drive, take time and enjoy it.
You already know the need for insurance which can also be purchased at any off the last few of ramps of I-5 such as Dairy Mart Rd. With insurance
coverage in hand get back on I-5 and head for the border. The highway will take a sharp right at the border. Be in the right lane. The road will
then turn left to cross but go straight to the Declaracion area. Pull inside the fence and park. Grab your passports and head into the large blue
bldg. and go to the INM office and get your tourist visas. Sometimes you pay there, sometimes he sends you next door to the bank. (about $26 USD
each). If they send you to the bank, return to INM with receipt and get your Visa and Passport stamped.
Now go ahead and get back in your car and cross. they will ask you to push a button on a stoplight. If green you're good to go. If red, they may
want to inspect your vehicle. Once you are across just follow the signs for Cuota (toll road). This will get you on Mex 1 to Ensenada. There are 3
toll booths at about $2.50 ea. The will accept pesos or dollars but not a combination of both.
When you get to Ensenada just follow the signs for the Tourist Zone and it will drop you down on the malecon. This is where the AAA map comes in
handy to know when to turn left.
Once you get south of Maneadero you can start to kick back as the traffic thins significantly as you head toward the vineyard area of Santo Tomas.
With grapevines, oak trees and rolling hills it is reminiscent of Napa.
The next big town is San Quintin. Depending on time of year there can be many fruit and veggie stands but no matter how good it looks the're likely
to be confiscated when you cross into Baja Sur just above GN.
I typically cross the border at 0600 which usually gets me to El Rosario right about time for Chile Rellenos and a cerveza at Mama Espinosa's (right
on the curve in town) but stop at the Pemex just before then and fill up. The next available fuel is a long ways away.
Taking your time I'd stop at the Hotel Missiones in Catavina and/or take a side trip into Bahia de Los Angeles. I highly recommend this side trip for
first time vistors. It's about 40 miles in and they now have gas and 24 hr. electricity. Lots of hotel and camping recommendations on this forum so I
won't bother.
Unless I am showing Baja to someone I just push on through to Guererro Negro (about 12 hrs. south of the border) before calling it a day.
Leaving GN early the next morning you now head east towards the Sea of Cortez. Take a sort side trip into the palm oasis at San Ignacio, well worth
the 30 minutes it takes.
Next is Santa Rosalia. Take a right turn into town for a must stop at the El Boleo Bakery.
Your next stop should be Mulege (another palm oasis). I often make a stop at the La Serenidad for lunch. About 10-15 miles south of Mulege you will
enter some small hills but have your camera ready because around one of the curves it will open to the Bahia Concepcion.
If you didn't stop in Mulege you can catch lunch at Playa Buenaventura right on the bay.
The next town is Loreto and definitely worth a drive through especially along the malecon.
From Loreto you will head back west to the Pacific side. Drive slow and stop at every stop sign in Ciudad Constitucion then back across the peninsula
to La Paz. Since your destination is Todos Santos I would head there and just make a day trip back to La Paz so follow the signs for the Libremiento.
Turn right on Forjadoras and right again when you reach Mex 19.
Driving tips:
Oncoming cars flashing headlight - Potenial hazard ahead. Typically livestock near the road but it can be anything so heads up.
Left turn blinker - They are going to make a left turn or it more commonly means it is safe to pass. Your call.
Stop signs in La Paz seem to be only be a suggestion. Make sure the car behind you understands you are going to stop.
EVERY town or even a small collection of bldgs. has topes - Slow down!
In Memory of E-57
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StuckSucks
Super Nomad
Posts: 2307
Registered: 10-17-2013
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For hormonal purposes. A photo sphere I shot on the beach south of Todos Santos a week ago:
https://www.google.com/maps/views/u/0/view/11596559755849069...
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64557
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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"a day" ?
It is a 3 day drive (normal driving)... are you asking how many hours per day, each day? Maybe 9.3... as Harald said: "San Jose to Todos Santos is
about a 28 hour drive."
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Matt Drown
Newbie
Posts: 8
Registered: 4-23-2015
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
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Yea, I realized I phrased my time question wrong. 3 days drive from San Diego to Todos Santos, with about 8 hours of driving each day. My default of
miles to time works in the US, but I know it's not guaranteed to be true once I hit Mexico due to road conditions. (I'm used to doing 500-600 miles a
day)
Thanks a lot to everyone for the recommendations! Will start looking at the departure day and see how many days we want to take going down, I'm
pretty confident we aren't going to do the 12 hour Guererro Negro drive, just 3 days or 5. We have a place reserved in Todos Santos for 4 weeks to
relax, so a number of day trips will be planned.
I am looking forward to the Chile Rellenos.....
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bajaguy
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9247
Registered: 9-16-2003
Location: Carson City, NV/Ensenada - Baja Country Club
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Mood: must be 5 O'clock somewhere in Baja
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Info
Stop at the border and get your FMM at Mexican Immigration (INM)
Insurance - Buy it on-line from Bajabound at the top of this page. Geoff is a great guy and a Baja Nomad supporter
Ensenada - Just follow the tourist signs, proceed along the Costero (main street). There is some construction, but no problems. As you get south of
the main business district past the Navy base (on your right), continue along the beach to the "T" intersection.....make a left and proceed to Reforma
(Hwy 1). A right turn and you are on your way.
If you need supplies or cash, stop at the Ensenada COSTCO or Commercial Mexicana, shop and/or hit the ATM.
Tell your bank or financial institution that you will be in Mexico (Baja) so they don't lock up your credit or debit card
When you get to El Rosario, stop at the PEMEX and fill up.....you might also want to leave a donation for the all-volunteer Desert Hawks ambulance
service at the PEMEX....adds to your karma account.
Drive slow, enjoy the sights, have fun
[Edited on 4-28-2015 by bajaguy]
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AKgringo
Elite Nomad
Posts: 5865
Registered: 9-20-2014
Location: Anchorage, AK (no mas!)
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Mood: Retireded
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GPS, Caution!
I use an old school automotive GPS, which is helpful for getting through towns and to keep track of miles and such.
I have used Garmin, and TomTom, and even with the latest updates available there are many errors due to changed traffic patterns, new roads, one way
streets and other old information (such as border crossing access).
My personal preference is the TomTom, but I am always on guard, and check my AAA map for confirmation on some roads.
If you are not living on the edge, you are taking up too much space!
"Could do better if he tried!" Report card comments from most of my grade school teachers. Sadly, still true!
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BajaBlanca
Select Nomad
Posts: 13166
Registered: 10-28-2008
Location: La Bocana, BCS
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Alan - what a comprehensive report -very detailed and certainly covers every aspect for a first timer.
The GPS notes are spot on - Mexico never seems to be correct on it!
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pauldavidmena
Super Nomad
Posts: 1692
Registered: 5-23-2013
Location: Centerville, MA, USA
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Thanks for posting this. It's done wonders for my blood pressure.
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Floatflyer
Nomad
Posts: 311
Registered: 2-15-2009
Location: Whidbey Island, WA
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Mood: Wet & Cold
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What is the appeal for stopping in Catavina? We have stayed there several times and find it expensive with food that is not all that great. Plan
your trip to avoid this marginal place. AND the only gasoline is from a barrel if there is any at all!
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4x4abc
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4202
Registered: 4-24-2009
Location: La Paz, BCS
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Mood: happy - always
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I like Catavina because it offers a super quiet hotel away from any busy, noisy town. Yes, hotel Mision Catavina is too expensive (about $80 now?) and
the food is touristy. But no other place on your way south gives you the same Baja impression of solitude and quietness. A first glimpse of what Baja
offers away from pavement and towns.
No WiFi in the rooms - perfect! WiFi in the lobby suffices. Love the Hacienda style, court yard centered design of the hotel.
I like hotel Desert Inn in San Ignacio for similar reasons. Same building style. It's just out of town and extra quiet. All you ever hear is birds
singing. WiFi only in the lobby, not even in the restaurant. People even talk to people over at the next table, because nobody is distracted by
important (kitty video) mails. The new hotel close to the mission is just that - new. WiFi but no charme.
All, who have traveled Baja more than once get gas in San Quintin or El Rosario to make it to the next gas station in Jesus Maria or Guerrero Negro
(all modern cars/trucks can do that distance with ease). Only first time travelers run into the need of getting gas from the drum in Catavina or Punta
Prieta - but hey, at least they have a chance to get gas at all.
Harald Pietschmann
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64557
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Quote: Originally posted by 4x4abc  | I like Catavina because it offers a super quiet hotel away from any busy, noisy town. Yes, hotel Mision Catavina is too expensive (about $80 now?) and
the food is touristy. But no other place on your way south gives you the same Baja impression of solitude and quietness. A first glimpse of what Baja
offers away from pavement and towns.
No WiFi in the rooms - perfect! WiFi in the lobby suffices. Love the Hacienda style, court yard centered design of the hotel.
I like hotel Desert Inn in San Ignacio for similar reasons. Same building style. It's just out of town and extra quiet. All you ever hear is birds
singing. WiFi only in the lobby, not even in the restaurant. People even talk to people over at the next table, because nobody is distracted by
important (kitty video) mails. The new hotel close to the mission is just that - new. WiFi but no charme.
All, who have traveled Baja more than once get gas in San Quintin or El Rosario to make it to the next gas station in Jesus Maria or Guerrero Negro
(all modern cars/trucks can do that distance with ease). Only first time travelers run into the need of getting gas from the drum in Catavina or Punta
Prieta - but hey, at least they have a chance to get gas at all.
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Interesting perspective... as you may know, those two hotels (Cataviña and San Ignacio) were associated with the new highway construction and opened
in 1974 to serve the new, non-camping travelers coming down Mexico 1. The hotels were then owned by the El Presidente chain and were built along with
the 'paradors' (rest stops/ tourist facilities/ trailer parks), except at Punta Prieta which only had the parador (at the L.A. Bay junction).
1) San Quintin (actually on the outer Santa Maria bay just south of San Quintin). The parador was on Hwy. 1, and the hotel was a couple of paved miles
behind it, on the big beach. When Hwy. 1 was moved due to repeated flood destruction nearby, the parador closed up, but the hotel remains to this day
and now called Hotel Mision Santa Maria.
2) Cataviña (Santa Ines/Cataviña originally). Parador on one side of the highway and the hotel is on the other. A new town grew from the parador and
hotel complex in the middle of the desert. The gas station failed to stay open (bad business operations) and the parador (rest stop, cafeteria,
showers, bathrooms) went out of business as well (the trailer park just north lasted longer). The hotel continues to thrive and is now called Hotel
Mision Cataviña.
3) Parador Punta Prieta, located 8.4 miles north of the town of Punta Prieta at the junction of the new road east to Bahia de los Angeles. No hotel
was built here, but the trailer park, gas station, parador rest stop/cafeteria/showers/rest rooms remained open for many years. Once the gas station
failed to stay in business, the parador closed... the trailer park stayed open sometime longer. Like Cataviña, there was no local population other
than the small village 8.4 miles away. Lack of nearby employee sources and banking both contribute to failure.
4) Parador Paralleo 28º (Guerrero Negro), located 4 highway miles from the town of Guerrero Negro (of 1974) on the border between the two states of
Baja California, perhaps the most elegant of the new Highway One El Presidente hotels was built here, across from the giant eagle monument. The
trailer park was next door, and the gas station and parador were on the opposite side of the eagle. As Guerrero Negro grew and services for tourists
would put the parador out of business.
5) San Ignacio. The parador and gas station were located on the highway and the beautiful hotel was located a mile south on the paved road into town.
This was the only parador gas station to remain open since 1974.
There was also a mini-parador at San Agustin (between El Rosario and Cataviña) with a gas station and a trailer park. The gas station failed early on,
but the trailer park has been open or at leased signed open.
I took lots of photos of the paradors and El Presidentes on my book research trips in 1974, but they are on slides...
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