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David1975
Newbie
Posts: 4
Registered: 8-27-2015
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New member intro and questions
Hello all. I signed up here because I plan to take my family (2 yr old, 5 yr old and wife) on a camping trip to the Baja this coming Christmas break.
I have been scouring forums and blogs for information but was hoping to start a conversation with some of the specific questions I'm thinking of.
We live in NM and are looking at about a 2 week trip. Looks like it is 11 hours from Santa Fe to Mexicali where we plan to cross. From there I am
trying to decide if it is smarter to cross to the Pacific side and work south a bit or head straight south down the Sea side. Is the weather a lot
different between the two? is the culture? Our plan is to camp as much as is reasonable and maybe hit a hotel when it seems worth it.
Does anyone have a first days drive from Mexicali I could look at?
I've heard of a book called the Baja Almanac. Is that worth tracking down?
Whale watching seems like a very popular activity. Is late December too early in the season? Any recommendations as to where whale watching would be
best? Keeping in mind we won't make it too far south in the 2 week time.
Anyway I'll stop there and see how it goes. My wife and I have traveled quite a bit in Africa and India as well as SE Asia so we understand general
safe travel concerns. Of course we have never brought along two kids and a camper so it's a new adventure for sure. I'm looking to put together a
loose set of plans and to get some pointers about the region. Thanks. David
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woody with a view
PITA Nomad
Posts: 15937
Registered: 11-8-2004
Location: Looking at the Coronado Islands
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Mood: Everchangin'
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go down the cortez side. you could be in cabo in 4 days and then spend the next 10 slowly working your way back up or anything in between! Scammon's
Lagoon will fill up with whales first since its closest, i'd think. come back here tonight and you'll have more replies than you know what to do with.
don't worry about the almanac. just get a map and it'll get you wherever you want to be. what are you driving? be prepared to change/plug tires and
reinflate.
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Whale-ista
Super Nomad
Posts: 2009
Registered: 2-18-2013
Location: San Diego
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Mood: Sunny with chance of whales
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Almanac is overkill for most trips. Lots of detail for extended travel, esp offroad, but not essential. Auto club maps are fine.
December is usually early for whales but last year they were arriving by then. With the unusually strong El Niño forming all bets are off re whale
arrival etc. Scammons lagoon near Guerrero Negro is easiest to reach and has earliest whale arrivals. San Ignacio is nice but whales arrive later in
the year.
Unfortunately El Niño years can be tough on whales. Often less food up north, more mortalities, fewer calves.
Weather is warmer on Cortez side. Winters on Pacific normally colder, and likely wetter this year . In 2 weeks you can easily see both coasts.
In my experience Cultural shifts are more north/south vs east/west. South is more tropical, north is temperate, the people dress accordingly, and
buildings are designed to match. Also inland is ranching and horses, but these influences often show up on the Pacific coast in fishing towns. (See
Bahia Asuncion's horse racing,)
Enjoy the trip! I'm sure you will get many more replies and suggestions.
\"Probably the airplanes will bring week-enders from Los Angeles before long, and the beautiful poor bedraggled old town will bloom with a
Floridian ugliness.\" (John Steinbeck, 1940, discussing the future of La Paz, BCS, Mexico)
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SFandH
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6929
Registered: 8-5-2011
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Quote: Originally posted by David1975  |
Looks like it is 11 hours from Santa Fe to Mexicali where we plan to cross. From there I am trying to decide if it is smarter to cross to the Pacific
side and work south a bit or head straight south down the Sea side. Is the weather a lot different between the two? |
Go south to San Felipe for the first night, maybe Gonzaga. We'll see what other nomads think is the best first night stop for a baja newbie with kids
in tow.
The northern peninsula weather will be better, maybe much better, on the Sea of Cortez side than on the Pacific side in December. If you decide to
head to Pacific coast right after crossing the border, I suggest you use the Tecate crossing.
Don't plan to drive at night. Just too dangerous for several reasons. You'll see. Be watchful for speed bumps along populated stretches of the road.
Especially as you enter the small towns. Some of the bumps are poorly marked and can be quite a jolt if you hit them hard.
[Edited on 8-27-2015 by SFandH]
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shari
Select Nomad
Posts: 13033
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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Welcome to the forum David and family and thanks for the introduction which makes it easier to offer helpful advice!
I agree to head down the gulf side first then perhaps come over to our neck of the desert for Christmas...we have a really fun family gathering the
kids might like and there are lots of children around...then on your way back you can see whales at Guerrero Negro as the last thing before you head
north...your kids are going to LOVE the trip!!!
the trick is to find a place you like and stay to enjoy it instead of being in the truck alot...less driving...more beach! Doing half the baja would
be nicer...then do the other half the next trip!
I sent you a private message U2U that you get up in the top right corner of the page...buen viaje and dont forget to do a trip report!
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Ateo
Elite Nomad
Posts: 5847
Registered: 7-18-2011
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I would agree with above, if crossing at Mexicali, I would head south from there. You can always drive the Pacific Coast on the way back home and
cross in Tecate or TJ. Like SFandH said, Gonzaga would be a great place to spend the first night/camp, maybe even for a day or two. Then head a
little further south to Bahia de Los Angeles (BOLA)?
San Ignacio, Mulege, and Loreto are also cool to check out. Then head back north and do the Pacific side, although there's not much ocean to see
until you get back to San Quintin area, unless you have an off-road vehicle and/or are willing to drive some dirt roads.
I'll be down there during this same time. Honk if you see a gray Toyota Tundra with surfboards on top. 
What do you guys like to do? Fish? Surf? Missions? History?
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64493
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Hello David,
I didn't see what kind of vehicle you have. This is key to recommending anything. Are you comfortable off the highway?
Going south on Mex #5 from Mexicali to Gonzaga Bay or any spot south of San Felipe is a great first step. Punta Estrella Beach and Rancho Percebu have
sand beaches and palapas (shade) to park under. Both are only a few miles south of San Felipe (10-20).
Gonzaga Bay is 95 miles south, has a Pemex gas station and a pretty well-stocked market with ice, across the highway. About a mile south is the
turnoff to Campo Beluga and El Sacrificio for camping or cabins.
Anyway, that's the start of your trip, the rest will all work out!
Yes, the gulf (Cortez) side is desert, warmer in the summer, and different than the Pacific side. One Pacific side town you will want to explore is
Bahia Asuncion, and a visit to one of the facilities run by Nomad, 'Shari'.
The AAA map is no longer in print, but enough of it is online that you can print out the areas you want to explore. The Baja California Almanac is an
excellent topo road map book. Get one before they are no longer available, as you may fall in love with Baja and will want it, specially if you have a
4WD.
Click on the link in my signature just below to review my 2012 15 day Baja trip report...
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bajaguy
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9247
Registered: 9-16-2003
Location: Carson City, NV/Ensenada - Baja Country Club
Member Is Offline
Mood: must be 5 O'clock somewhere in Baja
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AAA Map
May no longer be in print, but I have always been able to obtain copies at various AAA offices. They are good for general road information and have
some details
PS: If you can find a Baja Almanac or two at reasonable prices, grab them. They show more detail than the AAA maps and are great for reference (and
travels)
Also of you have or can purchase a GPS that has North American maps, such as a Garmin 2555 they are a great supplement for the maps and will also help
you navigate through/around city/town streets
[Edited on 8-27-2015 by bajaguy]
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64493
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Online
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Oh, after I just saw a stuck Dodge truck photo, I am reminded to tell you (David) that you should get an air pump for the tires (preferably one that
clips onto the battery for speed, to fill the tires back or after plugging a hole... get a plug kit too) because sand is easily traveled over with
tires deflated... depending on the vehicle and tire, usually 10-20 psi range. Then fill back up once back on the pavement. The graded dirt roads also
are better traveled with about 10-15 psi dropped from your street pressure and it helps prevent sharp rock punctures, too.
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bkbend
Senior Nomad
Posts: 693
Registered: 11-27-2003
Location: central OR or central baja
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Depending on what type of camper you have you may not want head south from Mexicali due to a 23-mile section of rough, unpaved road before it connects
up with hwy 1. Many have done it, just depends on your tolerance for beating up a camper. I've done the two week Christmas thing with kids many
times and never gone south of Bahia Conception. Further south the beaches are no nicer and it's a longer drive. North of there you run the risk of
cooler, windier weather that time of year. You really want to park it and let them run around, they amuse themselves easily.
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SFandH
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6929
Registered: 8-5-2011
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| Quote: Originally posted by bkbend | | Depending on what type of camper you have you may not want head south from Mexicali due to a 23-mile section of rough, unpaved road before it connects
up with hwy 1. |
That is a good point I didn't consider.
When are they going to finish the road?
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MMc
Super Nomad
Posts: 1679
Registered: 6-29-2011
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Mood: Current
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Just a couple of other ideas. When there is a low over 4 corners area the wind will pick up and blow hard. if So cal is talking about santa ana it
will be blowing. At that time of year we often get some big wind days, check the weather and maybe go to the pacific side if you are looking at 4 or 5
days of wind.
Gonzaga Bay and Bay of Los Angeles are really fun and cool.
"Never teach a pig to sing it frustrates you and annoys the pig" - W.C.Fields
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BajaGeoff
Super Nomad
Posts: 1727
Registered: 1-11-2006
Location: San Diego and Campo Lopez
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Mood: Heading To Baja!!!
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Welcome to Baja Nomad David!
Baja Bound still has some brand new copies of the 2009 Baja Almanac available. We are selling them at the cover price of $24.95 plus shipping. U2U me
if you are interested and good luck planning your Baja adventure! You will find plenty of input and resources here on Baja Nomad!
¡Viva Baja!
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Hook
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9006
Registered: 3-13-2004
Location: Sonora
Member Is Offline
Mood: Inquisitive
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I like Shari's suggestion of staying GENERALLY in the northern half of Baja for a two week trip from NM. To do the southern part in two weeks from NM
is TOO MUCH, unless you are a family of drivin' fools. I dont use the term "fools" derogatorily; some people just love to drive more than spend time
in camp. Sometimes I get in moods like that.
Eleven hours from NM is a good first day. I wouldnt try and push it by crossing that same day and trying to get south of Mexicali. Too damn long and,
at that time of year, you will likely be driving in the dark. No bueno.
I'd stay here the first night:
http://freecampsites.net/#!5668&query=sitedetails
Then cross at Mexicali, early the next day.
I used to stay at a county park in the Calexico area, maybe Heber Dunes, but I'm not sure how legal or safe that is, anymore. Border towns are
generally a drag, anyway, as campsites go.
After crossing, you can cruise down to the Gonzaga Bay camps and see if any of them appeal to you for a single night. Others will have to suggest
specific places around Gonzaga; I havent been there in several years. If it has no appeal, you should have plenty of time to continue south on Mex 5
that day. It would be a fairly long day but you should be able to make Bahia de Los Angeles that same day, if you want. Very good camping in several
areas in BOLA (as it is often abbreviated). Pray that there is no wind, though. But it is a must-see, IMO. Good for probably two nights, IF THE WIND
ISNT BLOWING!!!
From there, you could get your first taste of the Pacific side by either driving north from Santa Rosalillita or by driving out to Bahia Asuncion.
Given your time constraints, either one would be good for at least two nights, but not both of them.
Lets say you opt for Asuncion. I would, given Shari has given you an invitation and has spelled out how kid friendly it can be. She can also let you
know if the whales are "in" anywhere, for when you return north and might be able to book you a trip. Or, you could check on the whales as you pass
through Guerrero Negro and see what's up. Anyway, from Asuncion you could head south on the coastal road to La Bocana and Abreojos and then head back
to Mex 1. Or just drive back out the way you came in to Asuncion.
I think seeing Bahia Concepcion and Mulege are a must at that time of year. It will likely be your warmest area and you stand a decent chance of
avoiding wind. Winds are a part of life in most of the northern 2/3 of Baja in the winter. It's not bad if you are on shore and it isnt blowing over
maybe 15 mph. But it can limit water activities. Mulege is a neat little town and the Bahia is beautiful.
After a few days in the Mulege/Concepcion area, you have two options.
#1-If the whales are happening, according to Shari or your stop in GN, leave early and drive to Guerrero Negro and make arrangements to go on a whale
trip. I dont know if that is possible your driving day or whether you would have to overnight in GN and do it the next day.
But IF the whales arent happening yet, THERE IS NO REASON TO STAY OVERNIGHT IN GN, IMO. It's a dreary roadstand that is unappealing to the eye.
#2-leave at around noon on your last day in the Mulege area and head to San Ignacio for the night. Spend a half day and night in that area.
From there, you could then see the Santa Rosalillita area on your way back towards Mexicali.
I really see no reason to travel the stretch of Mex I above Mex 5. Nothing outside of Catavina, is that interesting without leaving the main highway
and traveling a distance off it. Just return the way you came past Gonzaga Bay (maybe stay a night if you still have time) and then hit the border the
following day.
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4Cata
Nomad
Posts: 115
Registered: 10-28-2008
Location: Yosemite area
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Mood: Siempre alegre!
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I totally agree with staying in the northern half. East Cape is nice but Cabo is just an overpriced yuppie mess. If you're in your twenties, fine,
but a family, nah! Enjoy the beauty of Baja beaches and it's wonderful folks.
Agaveros, silk in a bottle, a beautiful bottle!
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David1975
Newbie
Posts: 4
Registered: 8-27-2015
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Wow I'm excited to have found this great wealth of information. Thank you so much for the thoughtful responses so far. I am driving a 4Runner and
our camper is a very small tow behind (and I mean small). Thanks for the heads up on the tire repair equipment. My wife and I will spend time
pouring over the map and trying to key in on the areas you all mentioned in your responses. We don't have any desire to hit the big resort areas near
Cabo. We live in NM for a reason and well you get my point.
I was wondering where campers find drinking water? I assume bottled water in towns. Also about the camping. Is it fairly easy to find spots? From
the pictures I've seen it doesn't seem crowded anywhere.
How accurate would a Google Maps drive time be when on the main roads?
Do travelers typically buy Mexico car insurance? Is it worth it?
What are the average temps in the central Baja area in late December? Just ballpark. I'm assuming 50-70s.
Thanks again. This is a very exciting trip to plan. Thanks for helping make it fun.
David
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rhintransit
Super Nomad
Posts: 1588
Registered: 9-4-2006
Location: Loreto
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Mexican auto insurance is a must.
reality\'s never been of much use out here...
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bajaguy
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9247
Registered: 9-16-2003
Location: Carson City, NV/Ensenada - Baja Country Club
Member Is Offline
Mood: must be 5 O'clock somewhere in Baja
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Three answers
I would avoid Hwy 5 below Gonzaga Bay as you will end up carrying your tow behind in a paper grocery bag (my opinion). About 25 miles of dirt road
Water (bottled) can be purchased in (almost) every store/gas station and at water purification plants/stores.
Insurance - No debate here, buy it. Also be sure to include your trailer. Get full coverage to include legal representation.......see the banner
(above) from Bajabound insurance....easy to purchase on-line and they offer great service. Geoff at Bajabound is an outstanding guy and will take care
of you!!
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shari
Select Nomad
Posts: 13033
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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Something to keep in mind is that Mulege is cold that time of year and the ocean is colder than it is on the pacific side for the kids
swimming....some folks dont realize that. Because our ocean temps stay up around 70 till march, the air temps are warmer in the winter than the gulf
side...honest!
But it is so beautiful to see those beaches on the gulf...it is worth the trip over and camping is pleasant but chilly so bring your fleecies!
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Hook
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9006
Registered: 3-13-2004
Location: Sonora
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Mood: Inquisitive
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Can we ask what your camping trailer SPECIFICALLY is? It's possible that it may not be suitable for the dirt below Gonzaga.
But I tell you, I would rather crawl slowing over that stretch than the alternative of driving Hwy 1 between the TJ and/or Ensenada area and Rancho
Chapala.
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